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About mregecko

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  • Birthday 06/23/1983

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    Bay Area, CA
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  1. That's a really good option to look into, Neil, thank you! I hadn't thought about that. I was certain someone on here would have some insight! The area is very open, and I'm hoping that firing with the sliding glass doors open will help keep the inside temperature well regulated... I'm in California, so our weather is never really too terrible ;-) I think I'll talk to the landpeople about changing or disabling the sprinkler, and if that's too costly or not an option, then I'll see about the vent-a-kiln hood. Thanks again! -- M
  2. Just realized, this maybe should have gone in the Studio Operations forum... Apologies if I mis-categorized. :-)
  3. Hi Folks! I'm in the process of building out my first full home studio, and just got my electrical & kiln all scheduled for installation. Very excited to start firing some work :-) I had one question regarding fire sprinklers. I'm getting a Skutt KS-1027 electric, and it's going indoors over my concrete slab foundation. My ceilings are 10'6" tall, so the kiln lid will rest about 7' away from the ceiling. There is a fire sprinkler in the ceiling, about 6' offset from where the kiln is going. It appears to have a red-type glass bulb activator, which I believe means it is LOW temperature rated (about 140*F). Do any experienced kiln installers know if I should be worried about this fire sprinkler? I can always try to get the building to disable it, or up-rate it, but that's definitely going to cost some $$. I'm attaching a terrible drawing that I made to illustrate. Definitely not to scale, and those are large sliding doors on the left of the 'floorplan'. Thanks for any experiences you can share! -- M
  4. Great advice everyone, thanks a bundle! I think the steel wool & WD40 suggestion sounds like a great first step to give it a try. If no luck there, then will check with some local machining shops. Appreciate the help! -- M
  5. Hi Folks! I've got a Skutt / Thomas Stuart wheel that I bought new a few years back. Lovely wheel, no real problems with it, but it has been in storage for the last year or so. When I put it away I didn't do the best job of cleaning it off, and now the wheelhead has some stubborn grime, rust, and pitting. Does anyone have experience or recommendations on cleaning these wheel heads? I'm tempted to just take some oil and some fine-grit metal sandpaper to it, but figured I would ask here before end up bungling it and having to order a new one ;-) Thank you!
  6. Thanks John! I should have mentioned, I've been poring over that site trying to spot the mark. No luck yet, but will keep poking around! Thanks for the referral!
  7. Hi folks! I'm hoping someone here can help me identify (or at least read) a chop on a hand-built teapot I recently purchased. Photos attached (hopefully). I rarely find myself purchasing other's work when I have SO much of my own in the house, but this piece really spoke to me. Purchased in the Bay Area in California. It's a lovely teapot that looks like it was thrown and assembled. The chop looks to me like either an HB, KB, or PB... But I could be wrong? Anywho, thanks for any help, and have a great weekend!
  8. Hi Folks -- I'm hoping someone will have some words of wisdom for me about lighting! I have been making my own lamps for a few years. Doing all the wiring myself, no problems. I now have an interior designer client doing an installation for a commercial application that requires UL Listing on their lamps. Not just UL Rated parts, but a UL listing on the final lamp. After checking around with a couple of lighting shops in my area (San Francisco), the UL Listed shops I can find are only licensed for hard-wired installs, not table lamps... They say the table lamp licensing is too much $$ to warrant it. Does anyone know of a way to find shops that can do UL table lamp wiring? Or have any referrals in Northern California? Shot in the dark, but I figured I couldn't be the first one to come across this. Thanks! -- M
  9. Looks like I have even more reason to grab that book now!
  10. I was afraid I might hear something like that... My glaze manipulation from base ingredients isn't the best. Fingers crossed I'll be able to figure something out. :-P
  11. Absolutely will do! If only I can find these darn frits... :-P
  12. Good call! I'm already finding some in the 800-1000 mesh range, that should be about the range I need. Thanks for the suggestion! Now, onto finding the frits... ;-)
  13. Hi Folks -- I'm looking to play around with some ^6 Copper Reds in Oxidation using chemical reduction. I've read the classic Pearsons article, as well as Tom Turner's great research on doing the same at ^9. The problem I'm having is finding some of the listed ingredients. I've reached out to General Color & Chemical, but my standard suppliers don't have any of the General Color Frits or even their Ferro equivalents (GF-146 / Ferro 210R for example). I'm also having a hard time finding anything other than chunky 400-mesh Silicon Carbide. Any recommendations for suppliers here? Thanks in advance! -- M
  14. This has already been said I think, but looking at those plates with cracks on them, the outside is visibly considerably dryer than the center. This kind of uneven drying will absolutely cause cracks. I'd recommend drying them upside down (on foam is a good option to prevent damage), and slowly. Wax on the rim isn't a bad idea either.
  15. No need to apologize! :-) After some debugging, we think it might be a problem with the milling on the wheel head not being perfectly concentric. I'm going to work on it over the weekend and see how it goes.
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