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mregecko

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About mregecko

  • Rank
    Potteries
  • Birthday 06/23/1983

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    Bay Area, CA
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    Potteries

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  1. That's a really good option to look into, Neil, thank you! I hadn't thought about that. I was certain someone on here would have some insight! The area is very open, and I'm hoping that firing with the sliding glass doors open will help keep the inside temperature well regulated... I'm in California, so our weather is never really too terrible ;-) I think I'll talk to the landpeople about changing or disabling the sprinkler, and if that's too costly or not an option, then I'll see about the vent-a-kiln hood. Thanks again! -- M
  2. Just realized, this maybe should have gone in the Studio Operations forum... Apologies if I mis-categorized. :-)
  3. Hi Folks! I'm in the process of building out my first full home studio, and just got my electrical & kiln all scheduled for installation. Very excited to start firing some work :-) I had one question regarding fire sprinklers. I'm getting a Skutt KS-1027 electric, and it's going indoors over my concrete slab foundation. My ceilings are 10'6" tall, so the kiln lid will rest about 7' away from the ceiling. There is a fire sprinkler in the ceiling, about 6' offset from where the kiln is going. It appears to have a red-type glass bulb activator, which I believe means it is LOW t
  4. Great advice everyone, thanks a bundle! I think the steel wool & WD40 suggestion sounds like a great first step to give it a try. If no luck there, then will check with some local machining shops. Appreciate the help! -- M
  5. Hi Folks! I've got a Skutt / Thomas Stuart wheel that I bought new a few years back. Lovely wheel, no real problems with it, but it has been in storage for the last year or so. When I put it away I didn't do the best job of cleaning it off, and now the wheelhead has some stubborn grime, rust, and pitting. Does anyone have experience or recommendations on cleaning these wheel heads? I'm tempted to just take some oil and some fine-grit metal sandpaper to it, but figured I would ask here before end up bungling it and having to order a new one ;-) Thank you!
  6. mregecko

    Shino Test Tiles

    On Black Mountain Clay
  7. Umm... It looks like one or two of those tubes went into your element's groove. That's really not good, and could potentially damage the element depending on what the substance is made of. Just be careful with this experimentation.
  8. Hard to tell for sure, but it looks from the photo like they cracked once the glaze was already hardened... When cracks occur in the middle of the firing, the edges of the crack are usually more rounded as the melted glaze's surface tension rounds out corners. I'm guessing it's a cooling dunt as well. Even slightly faster cooling on a thin form, that may have a little bit of glaze tension, can cause dunts.
  9. Do you apply the glaze differently to the mugs than to your other pieces? Maybe brushing instead of pouring or dipping, etc? Or is the clay a different thickness with the mugs? I'm assuming your other, good pieces are slip-cast too. The reason I ask is if either the glaze or clay thickness is different, it can provide a different magnitude of tensile force if there are fit issues.
  10. I love Marc's logic -- use as much water as you need. I usually don't (or rarely) just drop water onto a piece with a sponge. I'll dip my hands, throw with slip as much as possible, and re-dip my hands when needed. Sponge up or use a rib to clean up as much moisture as you can. I will say though, for a few years I too envied that "effortless glide" through the clay that so many youtube videos have. Then I discovered that a LOT of it has to do with how soft / worked your clay is. The studios I had been with apparently mixed and pugged their clay fairly stiff, and -- especially for a beg
  11. mregecko

    american shino

    Curious what clay this was (or what type of clay)
  12. Ancient Jasper is a tough glaze to work with. If you want the advertised glaze, you REALLY have to go pretty thick. Like, 3-4 coats straight out of the jar without thinning. And even then, it's not as much "Jasper" as I'd like. The best results I've gotten from it are layering. It really performs well over other glazes, specifically Amaco's Firebrick Red. That's the closest that I've gotten to the advertised test tile. 1-2 coats of firebrick red 1-2 coats of ancient jasper
  13. I believe she converted from ounces to pounds because ounces are better/easier for measuring small quantities. (10pounds) * (16 oz / pound) = 160 oz. 8% of 160oz = 12.8 oz. Which is easier (for me at least) than saying 0.8 lbs. It's hard to measure out 0.8 lbs on a scale. It's just a matter of preference.
  14. I don't see any restrictions on sponges or tools. The challenge was just to not let it dry out / firm up (either by waiting or by torching) as far as I know. People have been using throwing sticks, for example. Seems legit to me! :-) [And still really hard!]
  15. Absolutely -- I have some ideas on how to do it, but am excited to experiment. Don't spoil anything for me, I want to figure it out on my own! ;-) I doubt I could ever get the exact effect, but even something similar would be quite beautiful. If I end up with any results, you will be the first I share with. Cheers!
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