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Showing results for tags 'shino'.
Found 20 results
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Hi all, I'm looking for advice on how to achieve a darker charcoal/black carbon trap finish. I'm working with Malcolm Davis Shino on bee mix & coleman porcelain. I have been unable to fire the gas reduction downdraft kiln because of work so I haven't been able to play around with it. This image was taken a while back before I really cared how heavy the carbon trap was (record record record). This is what I'm trying to achieve. It's Malcolm Davis Shino on Coleman Porcelain with wax resist fired to cone 10 in gas reduction. Any thoughts?
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We’ve been having a really bad run of luck with M. Davis shino. At first we thought it was glaze application, then maybe a bad batch of glaze, now I’m wondering if it’s our firing or if this just is a lousy glaze. The fault we’re running into is tiny bubbles that cause a very rough texture. It’s neither pinholes or craters, here’s a picture: Anyone see this before?
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Hello! New to the site and am curious about the effects of dry wood ash on glazes. I have found a lot of info about wood ash glazes, but not so much about applying dry wood ash onto an already applied and dried (or sometimes sprayed with a little water) glaze. I realize glaze recipes will vary greatly so it may not be very helpful to name any, but I have had great results (in my opinion) with the shino glaze at the pottery school I attend, please see the attached image. I have also tried this on our versions of tenmoku and iron red with results of some fluxing and gold speckling, respectively. So I suppose my question is what is it in shino glaze that reacts that way with the "freckling", for the lack of a more accurate term? (Perhaps this is carbon trapping? I do experiment with a CTC shino as well.) I'd like to experiment with other glazes and colors, but am curious to know if there is a specific ingredient (or more than one) that I should look for to possibly gauge what the results may be with applied dry wood ash. Has anyone tried this on, say, a standard celadon or spodumene glaze, if there are such things? Yes, I am about to do some test tiles, but this will take weeks for results (I am a student so at the mercy of their schedule) so any insight would be greatly appreciated as I could completely avoid any glazes that would have undesirable effect. Thank you so much. Stephen
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Hello everyone! I am stumped on this issue and was wondering if anyone had any insight or advice on this. We opened our soda kiln a couple weeks ago and I had a problem with my work. I fired 64 pcs, most of which was Rods Bod clay body which also had some Red Iron Oxide slip decoration on it. I used Penn State Shino that I mixed the day that I glazed. 60% of it had major shivering! The glaze was just crumbling off and some thicker areas coming off in large pieces, leaving a grey stony finish behind. Such a bummer! See video here: https://youtu.be/0cbd0eXvYII Some things to note in this firing: - No one else's work shivered, but no one else used Rods bod or PSS Shino. - Pieces from previous firing that didn't make it in kiln and fired this time were ALL okay. They had been sitting for 6 wks and were Rods Bod with RIO decoration and PSS glaze. - I fired over two dozen spoons with Takamori clay body and PSS glaze, and NONE of them shivered. There was some crazing. - All my Rods Bod pcs with SF Shino or other glazes did not shiver. - 5 sake cups that fired cold didn't shiver. - There was crazing on several pieces. - Areas that got hit with a lot of soda on Rods Bod/PSS would shiver. - I did rush the drying process of Rods bod, drying in the sun and did a 2 hour pre-heat when I bisqued. I never had a shivering problem with Rods Bod and PSS glaze until the last two firings, which make me wonder if it's a clay body issue, a combo of clay body and glaze fit, or something happened in the glaze mixture. Or could it be the soda ash? I did find a discrepancy in our PSS recipe vs. the one from Liz Willoughby when I double checked today; we use 4.9 OM4 amount instead of her 14.9 OM4 amt, and I wonder if that makes a difference in anything. SODA ASH SPRAY RECIPE 1 lb soda ash to 1/2 gal water PENN STATE SHINO RECIPE - LIZ WILLOUGHBY 14.6 Neph Synite 7.8 Soda ash (light) 9.7 EPK 4.9 OM4 34.0 F4 feldspar 29.0 Spodumene -
From the album: John Baymore's Clay Work
This cup is in the invitational exhibition "I'll Drink To That" at the Eclipse Mill Gallery in North Adams, MA until August 27th, 2017. Handbuilt, woodfired, American Shino, overglaze enamel, gold luster.© 2017 - John Baymore - all rights reserved
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From the album: John Baymore's Clay Work
This woodfired Chawan with an iron slip and an American Shino glaze is part of an invitational exhibition at the England Center Gallery in Beebe Arkansas from May 2017 thru July 2017. This exhibition features Emerging Artists in Arkansas, and they have each invited one individual who has been a significant influence on their work. I was honored to have Bobby Lindsay ask me to show with him. Bobby took my pre-NCECA workshop in 2016 about making Chawan.© 2017 John Baymore -all rights reserved
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From the album: John Baymore's Clay Work
Ido-style Chawan. Wood fired and electric fired. Granite bearing stoneware body. American Shino glaze on exterior (with finger wipes), semi-matte feldspathic glaze on interior. Gold luster on interior. Exhibited In "Chawan for Chanoyu" solo exhibition held in conjunction with the 2015 Providence NCECA conference.© 2015 John Baymore -all rights reserved
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American Shino Glaze Mizusashi (water jar for Japanese Tea Ceremony)
Guest posted a gallery image in Browse Member Galleries
From the album: John Baymore's Clay Work
Thrown; noborigama woodfired; Orton cone 12; American Shino glaze. In the Tsinghua University collection in Beijing.© John Baymore 2011 - all rights reserved
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From the album: High Fire
Loaded with ash crystals from being in just the right spot in Mark Goertzen's kiln, Dante. -
From the album: High Fire
This delicious cup was fired for 96 hours in Justin Rothshank's anagama in Goshen, IN. -
Malcolm Shino Stoneware Pitcher
claybirdpotterystudio posted a gallery image in Browse Member Galleries
From the album: Lori Hess of Claybird Pottery Studio
-this was the first pitcher I ever threw and then subsequently altered ...what a ride it's been© Claybird Pottery Studio
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From the album: Lori Hess of Claybird Pottery Studio
© Claybird Pottery Studio
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From the album: Lori Hess of Claybird Pottery Studio
© Claybird Pottery Studio
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Footed bowl with shino and wood ash
claybirdpotterystudio posted a gallery image in Browse Member Galleries
From the album: Lori Hess of Claybird Pottery Studio
© Claybird Pottery Studio
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From the album: Wood Fired Work
© Lori Rollason
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Small wood fired bottle with shino glaze
lrollason posted a gallery image in Browse Member Galleries
From the album: Wood Fired Work
© LoriRollason
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From the album: Phillip Schmidt Pottery
My American Shino recipe on one of my favorite bowls that came out of this last firing. unedited photo -
From the album: Woodfire
Peach shino glazed bowl, carbon trapping, woodfired. -
I've been doing /using extensively a shino/like glaze Epk, soda ash, spodumene, nephsy. Primarily in cone 6ox. I've notice the edge where. Glazes stop the clay gets this nice toasty red color. Clay is laguna 900. I'm told its the soda ash that causes thus blush? I'm told that "washing" pieces in dilute shino will cause this blush. (Woodfired redux world) I'm testing a few pieces now. I assuming it's something with soda ash and iron, however in single dipped pieces the blush is only at transition. I'd like to get more of that blush throughout the piece. ? What's going on here in the chemistry sense? Shino like glaze Laguna 900 clay (iron bearing) Cone 6 ox.
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Hello, I am firing my work in a studio where I take class. The studio makes the glazes and does the firings. I love the combination of using shino with celadon where the celadon slightly overlaps the shino. I used to have great results but lately there are some rough spots where the glazes overlap. I have experienced this on bowls made using both white stoneware and porcelain. I am dipping half the bowl into shino and letting the shino dry for about 1-2 hours. Then I dip the other half in celadon. The rough spots are on both the outside and inside of the bowl but it seems worse inside. The glaze recipes can be found on either of the the following links: http://www.greenwichhouse.org/LiteratureRetrieve.aspx?ID=39879 http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:4p1TaQ-Sb9sJ:www.greenwichhouse.org/LiteratureRetrieve.aspx%3FID%3D39879+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us 1) Adam Welch's Averaged Shino (AKA New Spotted Shino) 2) Nelson's Celadon Has anyone experienced this with shino and celadon? Any tips? Thanks so much!!!
