Hulk

There isn't a one size fits all firing schedule to fix pinholes and blisters but somewhere to start would be to drop 100F below your top temperature and hold there for 15 minutes. One other thing I do is for my kiln and my glazes it works to fire below the top temp and soak there to bring cone 6 down then do the drop and hold/soak, (I also do a slow cool for my satin matte glazes but that isn't necessary for many glazes). It can take a few firings to dial in what works for your kiln and glazes.

Good question!
I'm in my seventh year of throwing*.
The sessions when most (or all) goes into the recycle bin (else dried a bit and then wedged up to re-throw) still occur - not as often tho'.
The belts slipping could be throwing your throwing off!
While waiting for your new belts, can you tell if there's slippage?
The motor noise changes as you throttle the pedal - does the sound change without throttling? ...as drag on the wheel increases, does the motor rev?
Hope it turns around for you, please do post updates.
 
*At a hobby level, serious hobby, but not anything like full time.
There's still improvement! Just recently I feel, think, and believe that I'm almost back where I was before injury and moving put a hold on my progress.
There's plenty of room for improvements...

What cone/temperature do you fire to?
PS I'm a little confused about the small print in the kiln spec.
Continuously working time on 1240 C (2264): 10 minutes
... and in the manual https://www.technicalsupermarket.com/(EN) RH-16L KILN INSTRUCTION MANUAL.pdf
Using this kiln at temperatures higher than 1,240°C/2,264°F or for longer than 20 minutes at these temperatures may cause problems with heating element(s) and/or with the kiln’s metal  body that are NOT under warranty.
 

Yes, you likely match the 240v split phase grid standard in North America and 3000 watts ought to be just short of 13 amps so most relays ought to perform just fine. Please post pictures of the relay (s) making sure the part number and ratings printed on the relay are visible in the picture. Post any picture of a failed relay you may have as well. Post a picture of the relay mounted in place as well. Relays fail from contact overload, and also often because of overheating. So one thing folks will look at is where are these mounted in the cabinet and how are they kept cool. Blocked air inlet / discharge louvers sometimes contribute to the overheating. So context and clarity of the photos you post will be important.

I don’t mind making mistakes because that’s where you learn, but man is it frustrating when the changes don’t help! (Especially when you have people waiting on you.) I haven’t notice any kind of change in sound with the wheel which is why I assumed it was my doing even though my throwing was fine till it suddenly wasn’t.  I just ordered the new belts so hopefully they’re in soon and I can give you an update. Thank you for responding and the reassurance! There is always room for improvement, indeed!  

Hi Mia00,
Welcome to the Forum!
I'm not finding anything on Email pottery wheels in general, let alone the particular Type and Catalog spec (which I'm not able to read) stamped on your ID plate.
If the motor, speed controls, drive mechanism (are there pulleys and belt(s)?), wheel head shaft, bearings, et cetera, are in good shape (else can be refurbished/repaired), perhaps you can use the damaged/swollen parts as templates for replacements?
Email Industries in New Zealand was involved with metals (particularly pipeline and plating), appliances, building and industrial products, and more ...interesting! The "Email" moniker is/was an acronym of Electric Meter and Allied Industries, coined in 1951, well before widespread use of Electronic Mail.
Email sold items branded Westinghouse, Kelvinator, Simpson, Chef (and others) under license from overseas companies...

Hi Mia00,
Welcome to the Forum!
I'm not finding anything on Email pottery wheels in general, let alone the particular Type and Catalog spec (which I'm not able to read) stamped on your ID plate.
If the motor, speed controls, drive mechanism (are there pulleys and belt(s)?), wheel head shaft, bearings, et cetera, are in good shape (else can be refurbished/repaired), perhaps you can use the damaged/swollen parts as templates for replacements?
Email Industries in New Zealand was involved with metals (particularly pipeline and plating), appliances, building and industrial products, and more ...interesting! The "Email" moniker is/was an acronym of Electric Meter and Allied Industries, coined in 1951, well before widespread use of Electronic Mail.
Email sold items branded Westinghouse, Kelvinator, Simpson, Chef (and others) under license from overseas companies...

interested in the idea of pounding out slabs before you roll them...i usually just throw them down to widen things out a bit, turning the slab every time, but pounding sounds quite theraputic.
i do love my long rolling pin.

Fingers are your best tools but not ones you can replace.   That was the only tools I had until our teacher had everyone purchase a set.     I have people ask me what tools should they start with,   I always tell them that their fingers are a good place to begin.    Then I give them a list of a few basic tools,   I wish someone  could help me with the arthritis in my fingers  with a list.   Denice

Didn't realise Hulk had found the right diagram ages ago .
 
I don't think it's a good idea to use a 40amp breaker if they suggest 10. The 250v fuse or something is connected to the coil that switches the relay and you should leave it there.

Check to see if this Operating Manual matches your unit?
There's wiring diagrams at the end.
Note the thermocouple spec, page thirteen.
See also the current/power specs...
Topworker P59750 P59760 P59770 P59590 manual A.pdf (wsimg.com)

Test tiles didn't work out but I have another slip  idea  rattling around in my head.  I decided to take a break and make new address plagues for my mailbox,   I made the original ones 5 years ago but someone decide to break them up with a tire iron.   I had made a press mold for the plague so the only thing that will require some skill is the decorative glaze work.  Living on a rural road you have teenagers drive by mailboxes and hit them with a baseball bat or run over them.    Denice

I threw my first  pots yesterday after a 8. week break. I had a tarsal tunnel surgery on right foot and out of cast now and in a boot for a month. I got off crutches  and knee scooter about 4 days ago and am taking baby steps towards walking again. Going to make some small stuff this am as well. Slowly getting back to it. Lots of PT and doing my PT 3 times a day then ICE and infrared light. Compression sleeve 99% on time as well . Wound is about 5 inchs long and coming along nicely. This surgery was a real setback for 8 weeks.
I have a large order to fill this spring and am just starting to get to it. I will be driving my self again within a day-ya hoo
PS tarsel tunnel is just like carpel tunnel on wrist only on the foot. Both by feet have it. I shosse the worst right foot to do this year -if it gets better in 3-6 months I will conside the other one. Right now  that sound really like a bad idea but once I;m healed up and if it works then I will think more about it on other foot.Surgery was a 4 hour trip away one way. Specialized doctor for this type of surgery of course.

Definitely have some favorite small tools, however, not much special about any - easily replaced.
I do like the MudTools metal rib that has a nice arc for bowl interiors. I use it only for that - other metal ribs for throwing and burnishing, for with use, the edges get thin and sharp*.
The kiln and wheel, don't want to lose them!
 
*taking the edge off with a file helps, but also changes the arc just a wee tiny bit, and those bits add up.

This mallet. I make most of my tools, but this one was a long labor of love. Sculpted to fit my hand from a beetle killed spruce and a bone I found.
 I use it often, to pound out slabs before I roll them. 

Here I'm using side light whilst touching up right after glaze (dipping, upside down).
Light from the side casts shadow in the/any tiny holes*!

There's a spot to touch up, center (almost) in the image above.
I've an old desk lamp set in the roll around stand, that's the lamp's metal shade on the left.

There's another spot, same mug.
These little holes might just close up during firing, ooorrr maybe not.
Easy enough to put a drop of glaze on the spot with a small brush, then, when the drop is still wet but the edges of it have lost sheen, smooth with a damp finger, but check later to ensure the hole hasn't persisted!
Recent thread(s) about tiny holes, I'd forgotten about application issues, like this, where a bubble forms during glazing.
In my quests against glaze defects, inspecting the damp glaze, and rechecking once thoroughly dry seems to help!
 
*I'd learned to drag a droplight around with me while looking for defects when I worked as a house painter; the side light really helps.
At this point, I'm working with "sunglasses" on all the time, early cataracts. ...also, I don't wear the latest prescription in the Studio.
 

I have a double ended crabide custom trim tool very close to a Kemper is R2 -6 inches long that Bison tools made me long ago. I use this as my only trim tool. I have worn two out so far in life. I have two spares now when this one wears out . So I'm set.

I didn't have my own tools, other than the barest of the absolute basics, when I was getting into ceramics. I was on welfare, a Pell grant for art school, raising a child by myself, and, well duh, never had any money. My favorite tools were a few gismos I made from  1/2 to an inch & a half-thick live branches from some southern tree-like magnolia or crepe myrtle. I was into texture & sculptural curves (still am) so I crafted them to multi-task & to make interesting surfaces. They served like a potter's thumb, a throwing stick, and other variations  recognizable standard tools. Stopped claywork to go earn a living & packed them away in a lovely special box. But I lost them all in the shuffle, when I moved from VA to NH.  Now I've got just about every tool one could ever want, tho no high-end metals or master-favored designs, and no Griffin grip, which I guess isn't really a tool anyway LOL . My favorites these days are still those unintended for ceramics--the turkey quill, the drawer knobs, the pastry cutter, the dental tools, chop sticks, etc. etc. And, yeah, the fingers!

My fingers! Seriously, they are my favorite pottery tools. 
Betty 

Trying some frits as glazes, fired to 1100c (2012f)

Here I'm using side light whilst touching up right after glaze (dipping, upside down).
Light from the side casts shadow in the/any tiny holes*!

There's a spot to touch up, center (almost) in the image above.
I've an old desk lamp set in the roll around stand, that's the lamp's metal shade on the left.

There's another spot, same mug.
These little holes might just close up during firing, ooorrr maybe not.
Easy enough to put a drop of glaze on the spot with a small brush, then, when the drop is still wet but the edges of it have lost sheen, smooth with a damp finger, but check later to ensure the hole hasn't persisted!
Recent thread(s) about tiny holes, I'd forgotten about application issues, like this, where a bubble forms during glazing.
In my quests against glaze defects, inspecting the damp glaze, and rechecking once thoroughly dry seems to help!
 
*I'd learned to drag a droplight around with me while looking for defects when I worked as a house painter; the side light really helps.
At this point, I'm working with "sunglasses" on all the time, early cataracts. ...also, I don't wear the latest prescription in the Studio.
 

Be sure to carefully check for application defects!
This may be what was nagging at my memory?
During yesterday's glaze session, while checking for tiny bubble marks and pinholes, an "ooh yeaa" moment:
microtips - Studio Operations and Making Work - Ceramic Arts Daily Community
Where any air can be trapped in the clay, or at the edge of applied underglaze, or at the edge of wax resist, et cetera, as the glaze dries, then the bubble pops - there's a pinhole!
I'm checking the glaze layers more carefully than ever!
 

A year later but thought Id let everyone know how I fixed the issue in case anyone else ha the same problem. I took apart the switch and saw that the contacts were all pitted, i cleaned them up with a wire wheel on my dremel and tried it again. It worked.
while I had the wheel on its side I noticed the wiring was starting to come apart( its a wheel from ‘71) so i replaced all wires since i already had the motor taken apart to clean and lubricate it. The rewiring has it running like a champ but I dont suggest you do it unless you know what youre doing.
i love this wheel, it may be loud but it was made in an era were things were made to last, it will outlive me and im only in my 30s lol

Hey, I have the same wheel and dealt with the same issue. Call laguna clay and ask them for PACIFICA SENSOR W/WAND + CORD, it was $23.75 when i bought it last year. Assuming we have the same pedal (cause I had the exact same issue) it should be a fairly easy fix. The only issue I had was i still havent really adjusted the pedal speed to were it wa originally, its not the end of the world it just annoys me sometimes. Does the inside of your pedal look like this picture? If so then ghats your fix. Ask the for the instructions, film yourself taking apart your pedal so u know exactly how it goes, dot lose anything (duh lol) . Hope this helps

Here I'm using side light whilst touching up right after glaze (dipping, upside down).
Light from the side casts shadow in the/any tiny holes*!

There's a spot to touch up, center (almost) in the image above.
I've an old desk lamp set in the roll around stand, that's the lamp's metal shade on the left.

There's another spot, same mug.
These little holes might just close up during firing, ooorrr maybe not.
Easy enough to put a drop of glaze on the spot with a small brush, then, when the drop is still wet but the edges of it have lost sheen, smooth with a damp finger, but check later to ensure the hole hasn't persisted!
Recent thread(s) about tiny holes, I'd forgotten about application issues, like this, where a bubble forms during glazing.
In my quests against glaze defects, inspecting the damp glaze, and rechecking once thoroughly dry seems to help!
 
*I'd learned to drag a droplight around with me while looking for defects when I worked as a house painter; the side light really helps.
At this point, I'm working with "sunglasses" on all the time, early cataracts. ...also, I don't wear the latest prescription in the Studio.