neilestrick

1. Apply underglaze colors.
2. Cover with wax.
3. Draw the fine lines with a needle tool.
4. Let the burrs dry for a while, then brush them off with a stiff brush. If you don't let them dry they'll just smoosh back into the lines.
5. Cover with underglaze (I used black on this piece), making sure it gets into the lines.
6. Let it sit until the underglaze is dry on the surface. This helps to make sure the underglaze is set up in the lines so it's less likely to wipe out.
7. Wipe off all excess underglaze with a fine grained, stiff sponge. A soft, open grained sponge can pull the underglaze out of the lines.

I'd buy a cheap digital meter. They're easier to use and get precise readings .

If you don't like how the glazes look in reduction, there's nothing wrong with firing them in oxidation.

1. Apply underglaze colors.
2. Cover with wax.
3. Draw the fine lines with a needle tool.
4. Let the burrs dry for a while, then brush them off with a stiff brush. If you don't let them dry they'll just smoosh back into the lines.
5. Cover with underglaze (I used black on this piece), making sure it gets into the lines.
6. Let it sit until the underglaze is dry on the surface. This helps to make sure the underglaze is set up in the lines so it's less likely to wipe out.
7. Wipe off all excess underglaze with a fine grained, stiff sponge. A soft, open grained sponge can pull the underglaze out of the lines.

1. Apply underglaze colors.
2. Cover with wax.
3. Draw the fine lines with a needle tool.
4. Let the burrs dry for a while, then brush them off with a stiff brush. If you don't let them dry they'll just smoosh back into the lines.
5. Cover with underglaze (I used black on this piece), making sure it gets into the lines.
6. Let it sit until the underglaze is dry on the surface. This helps to make sure the underglaze is set up in the lines so it's less likely to wipe out.
7. Wipe off all excess underglaze with a fine grained, stiff sponge. A soft, open grained sponge can pull the underglaze out of the lines.

Chances are it will stick at cone 8. At cone 6 most all the underglazes we've used in my studio will stick to the kiln wash at least enough to look bad.

Yep, talk to speedball. However, the thing with wheels is that the parts that would need to be replaced- electronics, belts, motors, most bearings, etc., are not specific to wheels. They are standard parts that can be found elsewhere.

Thanks Neil !

I have not used the AutoFire, so I can't say anything about it. As far as the Genesis goes:
1. The touchscreen is no more buggy than the V6-CF, which has proven itself to be extremely durable for decades. The wi-fi is worth it. The app is very handy, the downloadable firing info is very cool, and getting software updates is a great thing. Lots of good diagnostic info, too, which makes troubleshooting easy.
2. The Genesis can control a vent via Output 4.
3. All digital controllers work by stopping and starting the power, whether through the power cord or not. No issues with either method.
4. The ElectroSitter uses a 50 amp relay, so it could be used on other kilns in the future, too. The benefit of a wall mount controller is that the system stays cooler since it's not on the kiln, however the EC sits out a bit and is insulated so it shouldn't have any problems.

While ailing elements may still do the job, albeit more slowly, keep in mind that those firings are costing you more than with fresh elements. I once ran my e18T-3 until the elements would no longer reach cone 6, and the last firing cost me twice as much as the new elements. Also, elements that are used to the point of failure are generally more difficult to remove because they are deformed, and because they coils tend to expand in diameter as they wear out. In non-L&L kilns that means they'll do more damage to the element grooves during removal, and in L&L kilns it means they tend to break into small pieces as you remove them, therefore taking a lot longer to do the job. Although changing elements may be a miserable job, it's a lot easier to do it before the elements get really bad. Replace them once the resistance is 10% off from new, or the coils start to lay over on each other.

A properly designed wood burning kiln could reach cone 14. Firing to cone 6 would be no problem, however if that's the temp you plan to fire to then you would want a kiln that produces very little ash, otherwise you'll have dry ash on your pots. The other option would be to fire your pots in saggars to protect them from the ash. To get the effects that you see in most wood fired pottery (ash glaze), you need to fire to at least cone 9 for the ash to melt well.

Ahh, so it has the thumb wheel and all that. Cress is going to be the best help here. If you ned to replace things in there and they're pricey (which they can be), you could wire each element to its own infinite switch and forget the thumb wheel, relay, and timer. You would just have to manually turn it up then.

HERE. They're actually made for electric ovens and whatnot. A dial that goes from 1 to 6, usually. Easy to install, easy to wire up- two hots in from the Sitter, two hots out to the elements. The switch cycles power on and off to control how quickly the elements heat up. They can only handle 15 amps, so they are generally used on smaller kilns where a pair of elements draw less than 15 amps. On larger kilns with element pairs that draw more than 15 amps you can use a 4 position switch like Skutt kilns use, which can handle 20 amps. 
I would not try to put any electronics directly into the kiln control box. It does not have adequate heat protection for that. You'd want to wire the Sitter directly to the elements and plug the kiln into an external box that houses all the electronics and relay(s). A controller built for kilns like the Bartlett Genesis is the simplest way to go. Easy to install and set up, and it has cone firing modes so it's easy to use for clay work.

Well it just got decided...  I'm gutting the system.
I've been unable to find a replacement for the original timer.  Cress published a replacement start/timer some time ago (an ITC product) and I've only been able to source that one from the manufacturer - $260 +tax and shipping and 2 week lead time.

Since the serial plate on the main kiln body of the Paragon reads 120/240 volts, it needs to be wired up as a 4 wire system- 2 hots, neutral, ground. Your Duncan is a 3 wire system- 2 hots, ground. The Duncan sends 240 volts through the elements, so both hots are connected to all the elements and complete the circuit that way. The Paragon takes the 2 hots and separates them, running 120 volts to the top half of the kiln and 120 volts to the bottom half. The neutral is required to complete the 120 volt circuit.
At some point a 3 wire power cord was connected to the Paragon. If they rewired the kiln to work as a 3 wire system that's fine, but if it's got the original wiring setup then it won't work properly.
None of this has anything to do with the power button on the Sitter not staying engaged. That is a separate issue that needs to be dealt with.
Unfortunately the wiring situation is going to be difficult to diagnose over the internet. Do you have any experience with wiring? Because the place to start (after getting the power button to catch) will be to figure out what's going on inside the control box and see if the 3 wire power cord will work. We can try to do it with photos, otherwise you'll want to call in a kiln tech to take a look at it.

I use the cheapest stick/hand/immersion blender I can find. They tend to wear out faster than with kitchen use due to the abrasiveness of the glaze materials, but they work great.

Talk to Cress, it may just need an simple inexpensive part. Trimming it down to two infinite switches would be cheap, though, about $30 per switch.

If the Sitter power button won't stay engaged, spray a little WD-40 to the backside of the Sitter plate- there's a small wire spring and another part that move to catch the button- then push the button in and out a bunch of times and see if it'll catch. Sometimes the mechanism gets corroded/gummed up.
You may not hear buzzing on low like you do on high. Totally depends on the kiln. Some kilns don't hardly buzz at all, some buzz really loud.

Talk to Cress, it may just need an simple inexpensive part. Trimming it down to two infinite switches would be cheap, though, about $30 per switch.

Ahh, so it has the thumb wheel and all that. Cress is going to be the best help here. If you ned to replace things in there and they're pricey (which they can be), you could wire each element to its own infinite switch and forget the thumb wheel, relay, and timer. You would just have to manually turn it up then.

Thanks @neilestrick! I actually did some digging using search on here and read some of your other posts on the Genesis (though I think you had just gotten it). Glad to hear you still have a good opinion, that says a lot. And also delighted to hear that the vent can be controlled with it as well. Given the $100 or so price difference, I think it's well worth it for a Bartlett controller plus all of the goodies that come with that particular model. 

A properly designed wood burning kiln could reach cone 14. Firing to cone 6 would be no problem, however if that's the temp you plan to fire to then you would want a kiln that produces very little ash, otherwise you'll have dry ash on your pots. The other option would be to fire your pots in saggars to protect them from the ash. To get the effects that you see in most wood fired pottery (ash glaze), you need to fire to at least cone 9 for the ash to melt well.

I have not used the AutoFire, so I can't say anything about it. As far as the Genesis goes:
1. The touchscreen is no more buggy than the V6-CF, which has proven itself to be extremely durable for decades. The wi-fi is worth it. The app is very handy, the downloadable firing info is very cool, and getting software updates is a great thing. Lots of good diagnostic info, too, which makes troubleshooting easy.
2. The Genesis can control a vent via Output 4.
3. All digital controllers work by stopping and starting the power, whether through the power cord or not. No issues with either method.
4. The ElectroSitter uses a 50 amp relay, so it could be used on other kilns in the future, too. The benefit of a wall mount controller is that the system stays cooler since it's not on the kiln, however the EC sits out a bit and is insulated so it shouldn't have any problems.

I would explore venting the enclosure better. A small computer case fan is super cheap and will do a great job of keeping things cooled off.
Opening the kiln at 500C is not great for any kiln furniture you may have in there- shelves, posts, etc. They're pretty tough but not really made for extreme thermal shock resistance. Keeping the elements on while in there is an electrocution hazard for you. European kilns have a lid switch to prevent that.

I have 2 of those that I picked up at a thrift store for $5 apiece. I also use a small coffee grinder for turning hardened glazed into powder, also around $5...