neilestrick

If you plan to use it as a home kiln, your electrical service will not run this kiln. Your house has 240 volt single phase service, so it'll need a bit of rewiring, new power cord, and new elements. It'll pull 48 amps and need a 60 amp breaker after rewiring. There are also a few bricks that need replacing. The crushed brick by the hinge is due to the hinge plate not being adjusted properly. As long as you're doing all that you should put in new relays and thermocouples, so you're looking at probably $650 or more in parts and a couple hours labor to get it running. If you can pick it up for a decent price then it'll be worth it. However if the lid is cracked all the way through then walk away, because a new lid is expensive. It was made in 2005. That kiln new is $3,675.

I'm checking on this. I'll get back to you.
You don't want a 36" tall version of the eQuad because you won't be able to reach into the bottom without pulling it apart. Only 6'4" tall people can reach the bottom of that kiln. You need the Jupiter if you go that tall.
Correct. As I said, the eQuad uses the same elements for both single or 3 phase for each voltage. They'll only need to change elements if they need to run it on 208 volt service.
Bottom elements are only needed if you are firing really heavy loads like a kiln full of plates or tiles. The Jupiter is a bit more customizable, so they offer it there. The eQuad is sold as-is, no customization, mostly because the control box can't fit more stuff.
A nice simple control box that doesn't have a bunch of external cords, so fewer parts and easier maintenance.
Correct.
The Quad elements last a lot longer, so they pay for themselves and you don't have to change the elements as often. The difference in hooking up 100 amps vs 80 will depend on a lot of factors, so you'd need to get quotes from your electrician.
Firing bisque and cone 6 (40/60), standard elements last about 130-150 firings. With the quads they last about 250 firings or more. I've had customers get 300+. The more you fire to cone 5 and above, the greater the benefit of the Quad elements.

I'm checking on this. I'll get back to you.
You don't want a 36" tall version of the eQuad because you won't be able to reach into the bottom without pulling it apart. Only 6'4" tall people can reach the bottom of that kiln. You need the Jupiter if you go that tall.
Correct. As I said, the eQuad uses the same elements for both single or 3 phase for each voltage. They'll only need to change elements if they need to run it on 208 volt service.
Bottom elements are only needed if you are firing really heavy loads like a kiln full of plates or tiles. The Jupiter is a bit more customizable, so they offer it there. The eQuad is sold as-is, no customization, mostly because the control box can't fit more stuff.
A nice simple control box that doesn't have a bunch of external cords, so fewer parts and easier maintenance.
Correct.
The Quad elements last a lot longer, so they pay for themselves and you don't have to change the elements as often. The difference in hooking up 100 amps vs 80 will depend on a lot of factors, so you'd need to get quotes from your electrician.
Firing bisque and cone 6 (40/60), standard elements last about 130-150 firings. With the quads they last about 250 firings or more. I've had customers get 300+. The more you fire to cone 5 and above, the greater the benefit of the Quad elements.

The kiln you got rid of has a 27" tall interior, which is pretty tall. If you need taller than that then the 36" models are the way to go, but I would look at if you really need that much total volume, or if you can get away with a narrower model, which would be cheaper and not require such big electrical loads.
You will not be able to lift the rings on and off by yourself with a 28" model. With a 23" model would still get help just to make sure you don't bump the work in the kiln.
The Jupiter does not have floor elements unless it is special ordered.
The eQuad uses the same elements for single or 3 phase on each voltage. An element change is needed to change voltage, though. No power cord on the single phase models.  Single and 3 phase models use different terminal blocks where the power connects, see HERE. You could use the 3 phase block on a single phase kiln, but not the other way around.

Thanks, all, for the advice. It's very helpful. The kiln is listed for $500, which seems reasonable, but I don't have any experience working on kilns, so I'll probably just wait for a decent deal on one that isn't in need of repairs.

Skutt now owns/makes Kiln Sitter.
Post some pics of the controls, as well as pics of the problem areas of the Sitter.

Moved.
Good catch! You'll be much happier with the new elements.
New kilns and old kilns only differ in cost of firing if they have different brick thickness. 2.5" brick used to be the standard on older kilns, with the exception of 28" wide kilns. Now 3" is the standard on all sizes for the most part. Some manufacturers don't even offer 2.5" brick any more.
I once did a test to see how much firing costs change as elements wear. I let the elements in my L&L e18T-3 wear until they could no longer reach cone 6, and the firing cost was double that of a new set of elements. On my kiln that was an extra $9 per firing. In a 10 cubic foot kiln it could be $25 per firing. So definitely keep those elements fresh. Once the resistance has changed by 10% from new they are due for changing. A cheap multi-meter is definitely worth the investment to be able to check element resistance every now and then.

Moved.
Good catch! You'll be much happier with the new elements.
New kilns and old kilns only differ in cost of firing if they have different brick thickness. 2.5" brick used to be the standard on older kilns, with the exception of 28" wide kilns. Now 3" is the standard on all sizes for the most part. Some manufacturers don't even offer 2.5" brick any more.
I once did a test to see how much firing costs change as elements wear. I let the elements in my L&L e18T-3 wear until they could no longer reach cone 6, and the firing cost was double that of a new set of elements. On my kiln that was an extra $9 per firing. In a 10 cubic foot kiln it could be $25 per firing. So definitely keep those elements fresh. Once the resistance has changed by 10% from new they are due for changing. A cheap multi-meter is definitely worth the investment to be able to check element resistance every now and then.

Moved.
Good catch! You'll be much happier with the new elements.
New kilns and old kilns only differ in cost of firing if they have different brick thickness. 2.5" brick used to be the standard on older kilns, with the exception of 28" wide kilns. Now 3" is the standard on all sizes for the most part. Some manufacturers don't even offer 2.5" brick any more.
I once did a test to see how much firing costs change as elements wear. I let the elements in my L&L e18T-3 wear until they could no longer reach cone 6, and the firing cost was double that of a new set of elements. On my kiln that was an extra $9 per firing. In a 10 cubic foot kiln it could be $25 per firing. So definitely keep those elements fresh. Once the resistance has changed by 10% from new they are due for changing. A cheap multi-meter is definitely worth the investment to be able to check element resistance every now and then.

Moved.
Good catch! You'll be much happier with the new elements.
New kilns and old kilns only differ in cost of firing if they have different brick thickness. 2.5" brick used to be the standard on older kilns, with the exception of 28" wide kilns. Now 3" is the standard on all sizes for the most part. Some manufacturers don't even offer 2.5" brick any more.
I once did a test to see how much firing costs change as elements wear. I let the elements in my L&L e18T-3 wear until they could no longer reach cone 6, and the firing cost was double that of a new set of elements. On my kiln that was an extra $9 per firing. In a 10 cubic foot kiln it could be $25 per firing. So definitely keep those elements fresh. Once the resistance has changed by 10% from new they are due for changing. A cheap multi-meter is definitely worth the investment to be able to check element resistance every now and then.

In general, things fit better in  square/rectangular kilns, even when firing round pots, but for tiles they'll fit better only if the size of the tiles works with the size of the kiln. So I'd look at the dimensions that will work best for the size of tiles you intend to fire. Depending on the dimensions, a round kiln may hold just as many flat tiles as a square one. If you can make do with a round one it will be a lot cheaper than a front loader. There are some square/rectangular top loaders on the market.

In general, things fit better in  square/rectangular kilns, even when firing round pots, but for tiles they'll fit better only if the size of the tiles works with the size of the kiln. So I'd look at the dimensions that will work best for the size of tiles you intend to fire. Depending on the dimensions, a round kiln may hold just as many flat tiles as a square one. If you can make do with a round one it will be a lot cheaper than a front loader. There are some square/rectangular top loaders on the market.

1. Apply underglaze colors.
2. Cover with wax.
3. Draw the fine lines with a needle tool.
4. Let the burrs dry for a while, then brush them off with a stiff brush. If you don't let them dry they'll just smoosh back into the lines.
5. Cover with underglaze (I used black on this piece), making sure it gets into the lines.
6. Let it sit until the underglaze is dry on the surface. This helps to make sure the underglaze is set up in the lines so it's less likely to wipe out.
7. Wipe off all excess underglaze with a fine grained, stiff sponge. A soft, open grained sponge can pull the underglaze out of the lines.

I'd buy a cheap digital meter. They're easier to use and get precise readings .

If you don't like how the glazes look in reduction, there's nothing wrong with firing them in oxidation.

1. Apply underglaze colors.
2. Cover with wax.
3. Draw the fine lines with a needle tool.
4. Let the burrs dry for a while, then brush them off with a stiff brush. If you don't let them dry they'll just smoosh back into the lines.
5. Cover with underglaze (I used black on this piece), making sure it gets into the lines.
6. Let it sit until the underglaze is dry on the surface. This helps to make sure the underglaze is set up in the lines so it's less likely to wipe out.
7. Wipe off all excess underglaze with a fine grained, stiff sponge. A soft, open grained sponge can pull the underglaze out of the lines.

1. Apply underglaze colors.
2. Cover with wax.
3. Draw the fine lines with a needle tool.
4. Let the burrs dry for a while, then brush them off with a stiff brush. If you don't let them dry they'll just smoosh back into the lines.
5. Cover with underglaze (I used black on this piece), making sure it gets into the lines.
6. Let it sit until the underglaze is dry on the surface. This helps to make sure the underglaze is set up in the lines so it's less likely to wipe out.
7. Wipe off all excess underglaze with a fine grained, stiff sponge. A soft, open grained sponge can pull the underglaze out of the lines.

Chances are it will stick at cone 8. At cone 6 most all the underglazes we've used in my studio will stick to the kiln wash at least enough to look bad.

Yep, talk to speedball. However, the thing with wheels is that the parts that would need to be replaced- electronics, belts, motors, most bearings, etc., are not specific to wheels. They are standard parts that can be found elsewhere.

Thanks Neil !

I have not used the AutoFire, so I can't say anything about it. As far as the Genesis goes:
1. The touchscreen is no more buggy than the V6-CF, which has proven itself to be extremely durable for decades. The wi-fi is worth it. The app is very handy, the downloadable firing info is very cool, and getting software updates is a great thing. Lots of good diagnostic info, too, which makes troubleshooting easy.
2. The Genesis can control a vent via Output 4.
3. All digital controllers work by stopping and starting the power, whether through the power cord or not. No issues with either method.
4. The ElectroSitter uses a 50 amp relay, so it could be used on other kilns in the future, too. The benefit of a wall mount controller is that the system stays cooler since it's not on the kiln, however the EC sits out a bit and is insulated so it shouldn't have any problems.

While ailing elements may still do the job, albeit more slowly, keep in mind that those firings are costing you more than with fresh elements. I once ran my e18T-3 until the elements would no longer reach cone 6, and the last firing cost me twice as much as the new elements. Also, elements that are used to the point of failure are generally more difficult to remove because they are deformed, and because they coils tend to expand in diameter as they wear out. In non-L&L kilns that means they'll do more damage to the element grooves during removal, and in L&L kilns it means they tend to break into small pieces as you remove them, therefore taking a lot longer to do the job. Although changing elements may be a miserable job, it's a lot easier to do it before the elements get really bad. Replace them once the resistance is 10% off from new, or the coils start to lay over on each other.

A properly designed wood burning kiln could reach cone 14. Firing to cone 6 would be no problem, however if that's the temp you plan to fire to then you would want a kiln that produces very little ash, otherwise you'll have dry ash on your pots. The other option would be to fire your pots in saggars to protect them from the ash. To get the effects that you see in most wood fired pottery (ash glaze), you need to fire to at least cone 9 for the ash to melt well.

Ahh, so it has the thumb wheel and all that. Cress is going to be the best help here. If you ned to replace things in there and they're pricey (which they can be), you could wire each element to its own infinite switch and forget the thumb wheel, relay, and timer. You would just have to manually turn it up then.

HERE. They're actually made for electric ovens and whatnot. A dial that goes from 1 to 6, usually. Easy to install, easy to wire up- two hots in from the Sitter, two hots out to the elements. The switch cycles power on and off to control how quickly the elements heat up. They can only handle 15 amps, so they are generally used on smaller kilns where a pair of elements draw less than 15 amps. On larger kilns with element pairs that draw more than 15 amps you can use a 4 position switch like Skutt kilns use, which can handle 20 amps. 
I would not try to put any electronics directly into the kiln control box. It does not have adequate heat protection for that. You'd want to wire the Sitter directly to the elements and plug the kiln into an external box that houses all the electronics and relay(s). A controller built for kilns like the Bartlett Genesis is the simplest way to go. Easy to install and set up, and it has cone firing modes so it's easy to use for clay work.