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    One to look at might be this one for the blue, using the pot spar and cobalt carb you have (increase the cobalt carb to approx 1.60) for the blue glaze, not many ingredients in it and it has a good history. I'ld give it a try with the grolleg you already have. I would also try it with an increase the red iron oxide to tone down the blue a bit and maybe 1 - 1 1/2% manganese dioxide if you have some. For the rim and foot I'ld start with a test of a simple 50:50 mix of your wood ash + your local red clay and see what it does. I agree with Mark, the pot you posted looks more like a salt fired pot rather than soda.
  3. HenryBurlingame
    Ended up ordering a black Brent CXC, thanks for the help everyone!
  4. neilestrick
    Kilns rated to 2300F are cone 8 kilns. It'll get you to cone 6, but your element life will not be as good as a cone 10 kiln. You'll likely get 70-80 firings from a set of elements instead of 130-150. The elements just can't wear as much before they're too worn to do the job. If you're only doing a bisque and glaze once a month that's probably not a big deal. If you're firing weekly, the added cost of elements will add up quickly. Also, look up what new elements for the kiln will cost. The price can vary greatly among Paragon kilns.
  5. Earth Bender started following Firing cone 6 in Paragon SNF24 kiln??
  6. Earth Bender
    Hello everyone. I am an intermediate potter and I usually fire my things at the studio. The kiln at the studio fires up to cone 10 , but I usually stick to cone 6. I am in the process of searching for my own kiln and I came across a paragon SNF24 for 700 bucks. It seems like a really good deal but it looks like the max temperature is 2300 F. I know that cone 6 usually reaches 2232 so I’m wondering if this would be a good investment for me or should I just stick to finding a kiln that reaches cone 10? I read online that if you want to fire mid range, you should get a kiln that can reach cone 10 even if you don’t plan on using it to that temperature because the elements can wear out faster. but I feel like I’m seeing mixed responses so I just wanted any kind of insight or opinions on whether or not I should get this kiln if I fire to cone 6. Thanks!
  7. High Bridge Pottery
    Yea I wouldn't want to give a big bucket to a student, maybe brushing glazes are the way to go for them. I have been trying that recently with 100g of glaze and 2-5% gum/binder which covers 3 mugs. Trying to escape having to have all glazes in buckets.
  8.    Dot reacted to a post in a topic: A large 24" tall sculpture has some crazing. Is there anything I can do to save it? Sorry if this is wrong forum
  9. Carrina Chocano
    Carrina Chocano joined the community
  10. Carrina Chocano
    Looking for any pottery wheels like brent, speedball, skutt, or shimpo in San Diego County, CA around $400-$700
  11. sommerjono
    Yes. Currently I have an abundant supply of ash, n. syenite, grolleg, potash, cobalt carbonate, copper carb, r. iron oxide, local red and white clays, spodumene and alumina hydrate (you might be able to tell I have a particular fondness for shino's and ash glazes based on this list). I am willing to buy more materials as well, but I'd like the glaze to be pretty simple still.
  12. Bluemorpho
    Bluemorpho joined the community
  13. Bluemorpho
    Hi, I have a similar Amaco 15 wheel that need some tlc. I purchased a new belt but noticed someone mentioned a tire that the cone rides on. There is no rubber tire on the wheel I have. Is there a blow out diagram of this wheel or a link on how to maintain it? I live in Central America and this wheel has seen much better times but the motor is working!!
  14.    Piedmont Pottery reacted to a post in a topic: L&L vs Cone Art Kilns
  15.    Piedmont Pottery reacted to a post in a topic: High fire clear glaze over under glaze - cloudiness
  16. Piedmont Pottery
    I like to use Veegum T to fix short batches of reclaim. I keep a tub of hydrated Veegum next to the pugmill. After each batch is mixed, I test for shortness, and if needed, put in a small scoop full of the hydrate Veegum and mix some more. Veegum is expensive, but it doesn't take a lot to fix a batch of clay.
  17.    Magnolia Mud Research reacted to a post in a topic: A large 24" tall sculpture has some crazing. Is there anything I can do to save it? Sorry if this is wrong forum
  18.    Magnolia Mud Research reacted to a post in a topic: A large 24" tall sculpture has some crazing. Is there anything I can do to save it? Sorry if this is wrong forum
  19.    Magnolia Mud Research reacted to a post in a topic: A large 24" tall sculpture has some crazing. Is there anything I can do to save it? Sorry if this is wrong forum
  20. Piedmont Pottery
    I agree strongly. India ink enhanced crazing can be very dramatic and beautiful. If you or the gallery owner can't live with the result, the ink will burn off if you refire the piece.
  21.    Piedmont Pottery reacted to a post in a topic: A large 24" tall sculpture has some crazing. Is there anything I can do to save it? Sorry if this is wrong forum
  22. Mark C.
    Photo did not shop up
  23. hawaiianfoodusa
    hawaiianfoodusa changed their profile photo
  24. hawaiianfoodusa
    hawaiianfoodusa joined the community
  25. chloemmetcalf
    picture of the inside uploaded
  26.    Hulk reacted to a post in a topic: A large 24" tall sculpture has some crazing. Is there anything I can do to save it? Sorry if this is wrong forum
  27. Hulk
    Hi SacredDrop, Welcome to the Forum! The motor might need a clean up, and/or new brushes? ...could have a bad switch, faulty winding (particularly if the two speeds are achieved via two separate windings)? Identifying and correcting the problem(s) might extend the life of the motor*. Finding an electric motor shop that can help - I see there are several in the Boise area - might take some looking and luck. Can the motor be repaired? Is it worthwhile? From Boise Electric Motor Repair webpage: "We repair pumps and motors of any kind." *the sparking and heat (and hence, smells) may reduce the life of the motor...
  28. Dot
    will do
  29. Hulk
    Please do post an update on the re-fire...
  30.    Hulk reacted to a post in a topic: Impending pit fire - suggested colorants and combustibles
  31. Bill Kielb
    I use a regular banding wheel often when I spray, most often cover it prior with cardboard or often with a small plastic bag over just the head and then set a piece of cardboard. It’s never motorized though, I need to hand spin it for control while hand spraying. I use my medium height banding wheel often. Whatever your final cover is it needs to be absorbent with minimal puddling and stiff enough to resist the air from the sprayer. When I am lazy I’ll just take a low height banding wheel and neatly cover and tuck in newspaper. All result in hand control (which I need) and minimal cleanup at the end of the day. With this setup I hand spray with regular HVLP spray gun (glaze), touch up gun (glaze) and even airbrush (underglaze)
  32. SacredDrop
    SacredDrop joined the community
  33. SacredDrop
    I was gifted an old High School Amaco electric two speed wheel No. 1-101 and every time I switch speeds after I’ve been using it for over a minute, it sparks. Orange and red sparks coming from the motor… I don’t have manual and I have no clue what’s wrong. After throwing for about an hour it starts to smell. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
  34. moh started following Retrofitting spraybooth
  35. moh
    Hi there! I have a Laguna glaze booth that I'm looking to add a speed adjustable electrical motor to use as an electric banding wheel while glazing. Somehow it needs to survive contact with water/glaze or be entirely isolated from it. Anyone have experience with building something like this? Thanks
  36.    iffetorbay reacted to a post in a topic: Full Shelves or Half Shelves in Electric Kilns
  37. itsmekarie
    https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/813716680611088/?mibextid=dXMIcH Here is a link it's in so. Cal check it out.
  38. itsmekarie
    itsmekarie joined the community
  39. HenryBurlingame
    Sounds like it would be best to put the half shelves at the bottom (so six posts down there), and the full shelves at the top if it is level or you didn’t stagger the half shelves (which is why I assume more people put the full shelves at the bottom). Would be easy to align 3 posts of the full shelf so they are directly over 3 of the 6 posts underneath.
  40. Mark C.
    This looks more like a salt pot to me than soda. if its soda its a lot of soda
  41. neilestrick
    The problem for me is when mixing chrome-tin pinks for my students. I have 7 and 10 gallon buckets in my studio, which means anywhere from 1.3-2 pounds per bucket and that gets expensive pretty fast even with just two colors. If it was just for me I wouldn't care at all. It would take a lot for me to consider a glaze to be too expensive for my own work.
  42. chloemmetcalf
    I did but she doesn’t remember… She’s an elderly lady and told me she hasn’t used it in years because of her declining health:(
  43. Dot
    Thanks! If the second firing doesn't work, I'll try that.
  44. neilestrick
    The posts must align vertically all the way from the top of the kiln to the floor. The shelf may warp or crack if a post is sitting on the shelf but is not supported in the same spot below the shelf. You can usually get away with it if there's only one shelf above, or if you're putting in a quarter shelf, but I would not expect a shelf at the very bottom to carry the weight of multiple shelves above it without a post aligning underneath. You can't tripod the full shelf and then have 4 posts sitting on top of it, because only 1 post would align and the unsupported areas would carry most of the weight.
  1. Load more activity

  • Recent Status Updates

    • Hulk

      Hulk

      Was catching up on foot polishing, washing, and inspection this week, then took a few new pictures.
      I like this teapot. It pours well too!
       

      · 2 replies
    • SWalker

      SWalker

      A woman is selling this kiln for $750 I was wondering if that would be something worth buying or if that price a bit too high? 



      · 2 replies
    • pottery007

      pottery007

      Hi all, any and all questions posted by me will be related to an ongoing research I am currently conducting on the possible applications of biophilic design in creating sound generating pottery. I came across a captivating story on ancient sounds being recorded on pottery only to realize that it was all a hoax. Anyway, it led me to exploring other ways in which we could probably include mechanisms that could create sound through clay/ceramics/pottery. I am exploring an indirect implication of biophilic or natural elements such as the imitation of the sound of wind, water, bird sounds etc. through pottery all while figuring out if there is a niche for this.
      It would be extremely great if I get responses and any help of the sort would be very much appreciated. Thanks!
      · 0 replies
    • High Bridge Pottery

      High Bridge Pottery

      There's a skip full of IFB for free. Now to work out how many I can fit in my car/garden.
      · 2 replies
    • Joseph Fireborn

      Joseph Fireborn

      dropped my bison trimming tool that I have had and used for 9 years.
      · 4 replies
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