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have any of you had any success in UNgluing something from a pottery piece that is glued on with e6000?  I have 4 broken ikibana bowls that I would like to get the large pin frogs out of to reuse. 

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Weeeeellll, took a box of ikibana bowls to gallery today that had been in my car over night with 19* temps.  2 of them  had there pin frogs rolling loose around in the bowl.  So, I guess freezing is the answer.  durn.  Never had that happen be fore.

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9 minutes ago, clay lover said:

Weeeeellll, took a box of ikibana bowls to gallery today that had been in my car over night with 19* temps.  2 of them  had there pin frogs rolling loose around in the bowl.  So, I guess freezing is the answer.  durn.  Never had that happen be fore.

If you can sandblast the areas you connect them or design each part with mechanical retention in mind, an adhesive will work better.  There is no chemical bond between glass|adhesive|glass so it functions on mechanical retention.  Just a thought for future situation where you need to glue two parts together.

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11 hours ago, clay lover said:

Weeeeellll, took a box of ikibana bowls to gallery today that had been in my car over night with 19* temps.  2 of them  had there pin frogs rolling loose around in the bowl.  So, I guess freezing is the answer.  durn.  Never had that happen be fore.

Wow, good to know!

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From the link Fred posted it's supposed to be good from -40 to 180F when fully cured so if the frogs popped off in your 19 degrees it sounds like they might not have been attached well or it hadn't cured.

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This is what we do for a living....people glue things in the wrong place and bring it to us to make it better.  We always start with soaking the item in very hot tap water, if that does not work, then bring the item in a pan of hot water to a boil and let it soak...sometimes it takes awhile.  If boiling does not work, then pull out the paint stripper...

Before you reglue, make sure all traces of the previous glue is gone.

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5 minutes ago, lgusten said:

This is what we do for a living....people glue things in the wrong place and bring it to us to make it better.  We always start with soaking the item in very hot tap water, if that does not work, then bring the item in a pan of hot water to a boil and let it soak...sometimes it takes awhile.  If boiling does not work, then pull out the paint stripper...

Before you reglue, make sure all traces of the previous glue is gone.

You repair dentures too? Haha.  We just toss it in an ultrasonic full of acetone, but most people don't have one of those

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30 minutes ago, lgusten said:

No dentures for us.  So you clean your dentures with acetone ?  :D

You'd be surprised at what things people use to self-repair their dentures.  I got one in this week that was duct taped back together, which is something I actually prefer to see!  But when I took the tape off there was almost a centimeter of epoxy built up from breaking and re-repairing.  I had to strip it all off to get the pieces to fit back together nicely so they spent some time in the acetone.

We repair dentures with a methylmethacrylate polymer that forms a permenant chemical bond that is immune to solvents.  The reason epoxy and super glue don't work long term on dentures is because of two main things.  First, enzymes in saliva are very good at breaking things down.  Second, adhesives act as an intermediate layer between two surfaces so there is no chemical bond.  Adhesives rely mainly on mechanical retention so when gluing things together try to give each surface as much to grip as you can.

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That's really interesting.  We repair and restore ceramics, plaster and some stone.  Stuff arriving taped together is good!  Seeing stuff already glued makes my eyes roll!   Super Glue doesn't work well for our work except for a temporary stick while the long cure epoxy does it's job.   The only thing we use acetone for is making our Paraloid glue for conservation work on museum type pottery.

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On 11/29/2018 at 10:18 PM, liambesaw said:

You'd be surprised at what things people use to self-repair their dentures. 

I gotta chuckle. I had an implant come out, post intact, crown intact. Didn't have a dentist-mine moved to Vermont a few years ago and I never replaced him  So when the tooth came out  I went to the nearest one;  they wanted a forced consult plus a "starts at" fee that together would be a minimum of about $300. I am a poor person! So I went to my trusty 36000 and it lasted for well over 2 months w/just a couple of re-dos, until I could find a guy who didn't push the consult, the cleaning, the panaramas, the lecture to floss daily or anything else. He looked in my mouth, poked around a little, then recemented the thing for $150. He explained why the e6000 wouldn't do the trick (which I knew) and how the dental cement worked, and was really nice about it.  Now I'm his new patient.  I think just for fun the next time I'll bring in my lower partial wrapped in some duct tape and see how that goes.  :lol:

Edited by LeeU

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On 11/30/2018 at 6:18 AM, lgusten said:

That's really interesting.  We repair and restore ceramics, plaster and some stone.  Stuff arriving taped together is good!  Seeing stuff already glued makes my eyes roll!   Super Glue doesn't work well for our work except for a temporary stick while the long cure epoxy does it's job.   The only thing we use acetone for is making our Paraloid glue for conservation work on museum type pottery.

It's kinda thrilling to me to know that there are professional Ungluers!! :) 

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Liam  I was a dental lab  technician  for 10 years, I never worked with dentures mostly  bridge and crown work.   I also made full mouth implant frames in the early seventies for a dentist that was developing a new type of denture.     Denice

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