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Fred Sweet

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  1. I agree with Bill’s assessment. Just fire it. BTW, the mold condition isn’t as bad as you made it seem. Regards, Fred
  2. Hi, Olena- I agree with what Neil has said above. Note: the T model is rated for 230 volts and the VL is rated for 115 volts. Regards, Fred
  3. Looks like it may be a Paragon Xpress-1193. If so, it is a discontinued kiln, though parts are still available. A six-sided kiln that measures approximately 11” across the flats, 9” deep with 3” thick walls. Hope the following helps, Regards, Fred Quote from https://www.aaproducts.com/XPRESS-11-9-3.html XPRESS 11-9-3 (DISCONTINUED UNIT) Chamber Volume: 0.56 Cu Ft. Width: 11" Depth: 9" Watts 2160 The 3" wall Xpress-1193 can fire porcelain on a 120 volt, 20 amp outlet. With a temperature rating of 2300°F, it is ideal for porcelain dolls, porcelain jewelry, and glaze testing. The Sentry Xpress 3-key controller is packed with features. It includes Cone-Fire and 8-segment Ramp-Hold modes. (Note: Ramp-Hold and Cone-Fire on the Sentry Xpress do not include some of the advanced features of the 12-key Sentry 2.0.) Features of the Sentry Xpress 3-key Controller for Ceramic Kilns Fire to a pyrometric cone by merely entering cone number and slow, medium or fast speed. Program Review lets you check the program you are about to fire. Program the Temperature Alarm to sound when the kiln reaches a specific temperature. Set the alarm to remind yourself to close a vented lid. Design Ramp-Hold programs with up to 8 segments (steps). Skip a segment in Ramp-Hold during firing without having to stop the kiln to reprogram. Hold (soak) the temperature in both Cone-Fire and Ramp-Hold. Experiment with Hold to improve color saturation of china paints. Control both heating and cooling in Ramp-Hold. Add Hold Time during firing without having to stop the kiln to reprogram. Change the target temperature in Ramp-Hold during firing without having to stop the kiln to reprogram. Temperature display throughout firing and cooling in your choice of °F or °C Thermocouple Offset adjusts the thermocouple readout. Set the Delay to turn on the kiln later to suit your schedule. Error Messages report a disconnected thermocouple, stuck relay or broken element. 12 Month Warranty LED Lights show whether you are in program, review, or firing mode. Colorful, illustrated instruction manual.
  4. Babs- Here’ the link from the Scarva site for the clay cited above. https://www.scarva.com/en/Scarva-Earthstone-ES65-Terracotta-Crank-Clay/m-9.aspx Regards, Fred
  5. Chanology- I’ve made my own decals using china paints and photo resist silkscreens, which doesn’t address your wanting to use a printer to make your decals. However, I used a water slide decal paper obtained from my local silkscreen supply company (don’t remember the brand, but doubt that it would have survived the printer process) and DID overcoat the imagery with a varnish or lacquer to preserve the integrity of the images when soaking the in water prior to applying them to ceramic forms. After top printing, I allowed them to fully harden (a day or so) before the application process to the clay pieces. I did fire slowly through the burnout to allow for complete removal of the carbon residue during the firing to China paint temperatures. Hope this is of some help to you. Regards, Fred
  6. A lot will depend upon firing temp. Cone 10 is most effective due to larger glaze/body interface. Cone 6 is okay, but 06 I wouldn’t count on it working.
  7. Min- I think your *C and *F values are reversed in your chart. Regards, Fred
  8. A very generic user manual for FE kilns: https://3fs7rd1xi6sy2zofjv3g0a0q-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/FE-OPERATING-INSTRUCTIONS.pdf
  9. Mavenhawk- Contact Amaco/Brent technical support at: (800) 999-5456 with the serial number. They can tell you the model and age of the wheel. Bt the way, the splash pan is on correctly. You want the larger side facing you, otherwise it will slide back away from you as you lean on it. Regards, Fred
  10. Victoria- Sitter Kiln LT-3K is not the brand of kiln; it is the kiln sitter itself. Look for a metal plate affixed to the control panel or kiln, itself, for the brand of kiln And model number. Photos would help. Regards, Fred
  11. Jack- Also think about the possibility of the lateral forces reaming out the threaded holes, allowing the feet to break off/out and leaving plaster chips to contaminate your clay. Regards, Fred
  12. KDP- Have you consulted your owner’s manual? Seems that there is some information regarding the potentiometer part number and means of adjusting the speed of your wheel. the link to the owner’s manual is: https://www.speedballart.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Boss-Manual-Final-Update-November-2017.pdf Regards, Fred
  13. Michaela- Actually the slim vials are China paints or enamel overglazes. There are a few different ways of working with them; either using oils or water as a medium. In your case, I would guess oils, since you have several glass plates with a dark residue. The glass is used to grind the pigments into the oil. Odds are that the colors are lead fluxed if they are over 10 years old. They fire in approximately the cone 014-016 range, and aren’t the most durable surface. They are what you find on painted China crockery. The gold or other metals are just what is discussed above, metallic lusters Paul Lewing (an inactive member) wrote “the Book” on it, and it can be found in the store link in the header. I would suggest sending him a personal message, if you’d like for him to respond. Regards, Fred you can tell him I referred you to him, if you choose that route.
  14. I think that what Pres is saying is that the sliders are inside the lid flange. Pres?
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