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Pyewackette

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  1. My plumber objects to that and I think the reason is that it is a 2" drain and should only have one thing at a time draining through there. I think that is what he said - I will have to check. So obviously when the washing machine is draining you are not going to be trying to use the sink (when its a single bowl). But I'll check with him. I didn't think this would be such a big deal. I've been trying for almost 10 years now to get things set up to where I can work. Much longer and I'll be UNDER the clay instead of working with it, LOL!
  2. Well here's the problem - I live in the desert. Leaving things hanging out makes them dirtier with all the sand blowing around all the time. And there is no rain to speak of. So that won't help me here. But its certainly a good idea anywhere you get rain, LOL! The other issue is that I need to bring the washing machine in from the garage as it freezes out there all winter meaning I have to run a heater constantly to keep the water in the pump from freezing. Also I tend to put off going out there to actually do laundry because its freakin' COLD. I find as I age I am much less willing/able to put up with things like that, and more likely to procrastinate over it. This is also why I need a utility sink and clay trap - I already know I won't (can't) be schlepping 5 gallon buckets around. If I don't make it as easy for myself as possible, I just won't work. So lets say I NEVER wash anything clay-ey in the washing machine; and it is draining in to the utility sink; and I have the clay trap installed. Keeping in mind I am one person and don't have that much laundry and when I do they are small loads. I can get long hoses for the dishwasher and drain it into the kitchen sink across the room from the utility sink. But I have to drain the washing machine into the utility sink. Is THAT doable, to have the washing machine draining into the utility sink and through the clay trap? I am unwilling to take stuff I know will clog up the drains (and apparently parts of the washer itself) to a laundromat. I don't think that is fair to them. But I can swish them around in a giant bucket before washing in the utility sink by hand (with the help of a laundry plunger). But that's a different issue; mostly I just want to have my utility sink and the washing machine inside, and the only place to put them is next to each other over where the laundry fixtures were when they built the house. I THINK it has been said that this would wash clay out of the clay trap and into the drain I am trying to protect? The fear expressed was the high velocity of water coming out of the machine? But since it goes into the sink tub and is not being forced at high velocity through the drain itself, is that really an issue? I just want to get my hands in clay again. I thought I was FINALLY in a position to have a home studio. *sigh*
  3. Well sadly not being able to drain the washing machine through the clay trap means I can only have one or the other. I am not physically capable of schlepping 5 gallon buckets of water around for clay waste, I need to be able to rinse at the sink. Garbage cans would be even worse and in order to "pre-rinse" at least some clay tools I would need something a lot bigger than a 5 gallon paint bucket. I could manage a wringer bucket on wheels (without the wringer) for some pre-rinse, but still need the utility sink with the clay trap. Is there TRULY no solution? I thought the idea was that you NEEDED to have a washing machine go through the clay trap to wash towels and whatnot safely. And yes the washing machine pumps water out at high force, but that water goes into the utility sink and drains as normal - the water is not being forced into the drain, just pumped into the sink where it drains normally. So I don't see that velocity of water is an issue at that point, though volume may be. Wouldn't I just clean the trap and discard as normal, regardless of what is going through there? I thought the whole idea was to keep things from getting to the actual drains ...
  4. I am (FINALLY) getting ready to set up a home studio. I've had the plumber over for a variety of issues in this near-60 year old home that seems to still have nearly all the original plumbing (except the bathroom sink). I have shutoffs that won't budge, etc. But the BIG thing for me is that the former owner moved the washer/dryer/water heater out into the garage. The water heater is not so much a problem - but the washing machine is because I have to run a heater out there to keep it from freezing pretty much all winter. And - they took out the utility sink altogether. I sort of understand much of this due to how small the kitchen is (which is where all this was kept previously) but schlepping laundry in and out of the garage at my age is no fun. At any rate I need the utility sink, and consequently the sink trap. So can I move the washing machine back inside and drain it out through the utility sink with the clay trap installed? MY plumber was very negative about the idea of putting the sink trap in the regular kitchen sink because he thought that was too much non-clay water to run through the trap - but wouldn't it be even worse with a washing machine? All the old washer hook ups are still there (hot and cold and the drain in the kitchen where the washer used to be is capped, the drain is run into that drain from the garage so it is still in use and clear). I am hoping to be able to use the utility sink for my clay, the washing machine, and a portable dishwasher. He seemed fine with the portable dishwasher running through the clay trap under a utility sink, but not regular sink water if I put the clay trap on the regular kitchen sink (which I would get a deep farm kitchen type of sink if I did that). Frankly I don't get why the regular sink would be an issue when the dishwasher is not. Basically one wall of my current kitchen would now be taken up by the washer and a utility sink and a small area for a desk/work area, and I'd just schlep the dishwasher in when I needed it until such time (if ever) as I can install an 18" dishwasher next to the sink (VERY small kitchen if I bring the washing machine back in from the garage). What consequences are there for running a washing machine through the same trap? Then adding the dishwasher which would probably get used only once or twice a week (same for the washing machine actually). Does the amount of water flow make a difference in the size of trap or something?
  5. I know this was posted months ago but I hope you're still around. When I click the link provided, it takes me to a page that shows 7 different products. I can't tell which one you are referring to. Can you give us the name of the actual filter? Sorry, I can't seem to tell which one would be appropriate. Probably not the "basic" or the one for the room air conditioner, I'm guessing, LOL! Is it the Filtrete Health? That one seems to have the highest Microparticle Performance Rating, which I think means it filters out smaller particles...
  6. Mark - Is this it? http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/12921-clay-sink-drain-solutions-for-mild-climates-my-setup/?hl=%2Bsink+%2Bmark
  7. What Surface Do You Wedge On?

    I use this for lots of stuff. However the manager of a local co-op refused to allow me to bring my hardiboard to use there. He insists that the edges break down and you get junk in your clay. I'm sure this could happen given enough time, but its never happened to me. If I DID see the edges starting to break down and stuff was getting in my clay, I'd throw the board out and get a new one. The stuff is not expensive. Is this a reasonable concern? Honestly it sounds more like what happens to wallboard when people try to use that for drying boards and what not.
  8. I'm no longer young and hale but I STILL don't wedge sitting down - even given the difficulty I have standing. I don't "wedge" the way most people do either. I wire wedge, also known as "stack and slam" http://ceramicartsdaily.org/community/topic/4801-wrist-brace-when-wedgingthrowing/?p=43358 There are videos and more explanation of wire wedging in that thread.
  9. Raku Clay

    It probably depends on the raku, but we used a white raku and glaze fired to cone 6 (I forget what the normal bisque fire was) - you should probably check with the manufacturer.
  10. I wonder if it's related to the site issues? Try contacting the administrators, maybe this is a new clue for them ...
  11. Warren Mackenzie Platter Decorating Technique

    Thank you! I thought it looked like some variation of a stamping technique!
  12. Air Bubbles In Clay

    Yeah, those HS jocks loved to throw the clay hard enough that little missiles of clay flew out at the perfect height to get everyone at waistline. Add the noise of this to all the girls screaming ewww and you have pandemonium. Of course there would always be the one person that would sit while wedging and get some right in the face. Yeah, I banned this technique in the Ceramics 1's. Wow, nothing like that ever happened in my ceramics class in high school, which is where I learned the technique ...
  13. Air Bubbles In Clay

    It works, same as always. I don't know why it seems to have "fallen out of fashion". It's also useful if you're using recycled clay or clay you dug yourself as cutting it on the wire will help to remove any fiber, sticks, small stones, or other-things-that-ought-not-to-be-in-the-clay (such as small pieces of broken off wire from careless potters who previously worked and threw the clay into the recycle bucket, LOL!)
  14. Thoughts On Bailey's Kilns

    Well dang, accidentally hit the back button and it wiped out my response! So here goes again: First, let me point out to the OP that Bailey kilns do NOT have 3.5" of firebrick; they have 2.5" of firebrick plus an inch of some kind of fiber insulation. I cannot tell from the information I could find online what the characteristics are of that fiber insulation. However, L&L has published technical specs of their kilns comparing the 2.5" firebrick to the 3" firebrick. I doubt the extra 1" of fiber insulation (2.5" firebrick plus 1" of this other type of insulation) exceeds that, but it may very well be comparable - can't tell without the actual specs. L&L kilns offer thermocouples mounted in protective ceramic tubes; by mounting them this way, they extend the life of the thermocouples and a replacement thermocouple is about half the price of thermocouples typically used in a kiln. You can also upgrade to an S-type thermocouple with an extended lifespan even over and above the standard thermocouples. L&L has a spring-assisted lift assembly on all but their smallest kilns; indeed, they even have counterweighted lids on at least one of their larger kilns. Bailey's MAY have a similar system, but I don't see it mentioned and I can't tell from the pictures on the Bailey's website. The L&L the OP listed (on the Clay King website) is probably about $200 cheaper than the price on the website; they're not allowed to list the actual sale prices on many of their kilns because of restrictions imposed by manufacturers. But the actual price (if you call and ask) is probably about the same as the Bailey kiln. Bailey's kilns have something that looks like an attempt to imitate L&Ls ceramic element channel, but it is an add on thing that you have to remove to get at the element. I'm sure it DOES provide extra protection to the element - but not to the surrounding firebrick, and when it comes time to remove and replace the element, you have to pull out all those little ceramic pieces first, and then put them back. They look to be about 4" long (which means there are a LOT of them), and it doesn't look like you can even get them for the smaller top loading kilns. L&L wins hands down on this issue. There are other things about the L&L to love but most of them relate to larger kilns or high temp firing (such as the super-heavy duty quad core elements, and floor mounted controllers). I'm not saying Bailey's aren't to love; but given the OPs original statement, in a kiln that size, the L&L is the one I'd recommend. I had some other points but I don't feel like going back and doing all that work over again, and given the sale at Bailey's is over tomorrow, I'm guessing the OP has already made his/her decision, LOL! I don't think there is a "broken" decision between the two though.
  15. Thoughts On Bailey's Kilns

    I keep coming back to L&L because of the system they use to mount the heating elements (among other things). When push comes to shove, the ease of replacement as well as the fact that elements last longer (eg less maintenance) is what makes the difference for me. http://hotkilns.com/hard-ceramic-element-holders Less maintenance, less expense over time, and less wear and tear on me. There are other features I find attractive as well, but that is the one that puts it over the top for me.
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