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JohnnyK

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About JohnnyK

  • Rank
    Advanced member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Citrus Heights, CA
  • Interests
    Ceramics, glazing techniques, photography, farming, reading all kinds of stuff but primarily thrillers

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  1. There are so many things I could answer with here but, like Denice, I'm focusing on glazing. While I've taken college level Cer 1& 2, I learned more about glazing in the Raku class, having to mix my own glazes as part of the syllabus. In the other classes we were directed towards the 20 gallon buckets of glaze and their samples and were told to knock ourselves out…
  2. Would I be correct in guessing that you own all the LUGs in the basket? If so, how many of them have you already used? As Neil has suggested, run tests in the environment you plan on using them so you know what to expect when you fire them. JohnnyK
  3. A friend of mine and I were having a discussion about my horsehair raku pottery and how much he liked my work. He told me he had his folks' ashes in cardboard boxes on a shelf in his garage and was wondering if I'd be interested in making a couple of horsehair Raku urns for him...incorporating some of the ashes in or on the finished piece. I can't see where or how I'd be able to put the ashes ON the finished piece but thought that it might be possible to incorporate the ashes into the clay body itself, either wedging the ash into the clay or possibly pressing the ashes into the surface of the wet jars before drying and firing the pieces. On another tack, he was wondering if it would be possible to mix some of the ashes into a glaze and firing the pieces that way. Since ash glazes tend to run when fired, he suggested glazing the bottom of the pots and firing them upside down so the drips would run UP the pot when sitting right side up. (This suggestion is something I plan to experiment with in my regular pottery work...) I don't have enough experience with clay and glaze chemistry to even have an idea of how to go about this and would appreciate any suggestions that might help with this project. In the research that I've started I found that the basic composition of human ash is as follows with the percentages of the primary components. Anything below .01% is not included: Phosphate 47.5% Calcium 25.3% Sulfate (Sulphate) 11.00% Potassium 3.69% Sodium 1.12% Chloride 1.00% Silica 0.9% Aluminum Oxide 0.72% Magnesium 0.418% Thanks, JohnnyK
  4. Am there, doing that...too! Retired and playing in the mud. If I'm not in the studio, I'm out on my little farm...clay in one place, dirt in the other. The really good thing here is that I'm having fun and making money in both places. Hope your efforts pay off as much as you want them to! Way to go CP! JohnnyK
  5. Out of the studio and into the field for awhile to plant my hobby farm...

  6. While formaldehyde may be used in the manufacturing process, the final product is not subject to outgassing. Hence, you shouldn't be concerned with handling on a regular basis. If you cut your bats from a piece of countertop where the laminate is fastened to particleboard, you should consider sealing the edges as well as the bottom of the bat with a couple of coats of spar urethane to waterproof the bat and prevent any possible outgassing... JohnnyK
  7. If they were the result of off-gassing, wouldn't they be hollow?
  8. Depends on the type of synthetic...I have been using a piece of super absorbent material that I got at the CA State Fair more than 30 years ago. I have been using the same piece now in my throwing for more than 10 years and it is in the same shape as it was when I started using it. It's not fibrous...no threads to come apart. I usually set it on the rim of my water bucket when I throw so I don't lose it,,,The big piece that it came from I use to dry my cars after washing. I've tried the real stuff on my cars and my pots and definitely prefer the synthetic...but that's what makes the world go round...the choices we make...
  9. Many times you can find corks in wine bottles...
  10. Just out of curiosity, Nicky, what happens if you break the blisters? Are they hollow or solid? What is the formula you use for making the stain? JohnnyK
  11. JohnnyK

    PSF_Wineset.JPG

    What glazes & application methods did you use to achieve such a fantastic result?
  12. Hey Lee,,, don't you find it scary handling the greenware so much while glazing? What % of pieces do you break in the process? Are you dipping or brushing?
  13. OK… Take a couple of 1x4s and nail them to the sides and the front of your table top, calculate the volume, mix a little more plaster than your calculation and pour it into the frame. then take a stiff straight edge, and skim the top level and let it set up. Voila...you have a wedging table.
  14. I started using clear acrylic spray paint on my Raku pieces 1 1/2 years ago with great success. I tried waxing a horsehair raku pot as an experiment and found that the process yellowed the pottery but also wiped away some of the burned areas of the horsehair. I sprayed a couple of pieces with clear matte acrylic and the white areas darkened a little but the acrylic really set the horsehair burns...
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