Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Can Amaco Potters Choice glaze be used on greenware and fired only once at Cone 5 or 6?
  3. Yesterday
  4. Publish your glaze recipe and I am fairly sure you will get some help here.
  5. Changing your firing schedule won't help. You'll have to tweak your glaze if you want to get rid of the crazing.
  6. The glaze is crazing, a hold won't help. If the craze lines are tight, it means it's pretty far off from being compatible. Not sure if it's too far for quick fixes like boron or silica. You can read some articles on digitalfire.com about crazing, it's very informative.
  7. Okay, a little update. I found that my white glaze (which I just made a new batch of) is crazing. The crazing lines are fairly close together. One thing that is different about the white glaze is the thickness. It is very thin, but that is the only thing that is different from normal. Are there any tips to prevent crazing. Maybe I should do a short hold at cone 6? Your advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Brandon
  8. This week I will be making some three pound fermentation vessels. I think I need to make a dozen or so jars for my wife and her group of friends. I'm hoping to also get through 30 mugs this week. Made a video of me making the fermentation jars, or at least the first exploration of the form, can watch if you are interested in seeing me throw cylinders poorly, haha
  9. Thank you all for answering me, your advice has been very helpful. I'm going to communicate with the Shimpo provider, to let them know my problem. And I wrote down the name of the reliable stores that you so kindly have given me. Greetings from Perú
  10. Hi, not sure how old this post is but I have questions regarding silver nitrate glazes and light sensitivity. Last fall I glazed a number of bisque fired pieces with a gold raku glaze (that contains silver nitrate) then my kiln broke down and I wasn't able to fire everything that day. My kiln is located quite a distance from my home so the kiln break down meant I couldn't fire on that trip --- flash forward to six months later. I'm about to go fix the kiln and fire at the end of the week. Those pieces from last fall have been sitting in a closed cardboard box for that long. The spots that had the gold glaze on them are now, as expected, dark brown. First question - I realize that the silver nitrate is light sensitive as it turns colour quite quickly but does that mean that it loses its effect completely? I read somewhere that even when it had turned colour it was still usable - that came from the internet - so it must be true LOL - Anyone have any thoughts/knowledge on this? My plan was to reglaze the pieces - just putting more glaze on top - then firing as usual. I figure if nothing else it will be a grand experiment. It would be great if I could engineer it enough to end up with something sellable though. So the questions... Should I try to remove the old glaze? I'm worried that if I try to wash them then the old glaze will get on the whole piece instead of just where I put it and make a bit of a mess of things. Should I try to scrape it off? Is it worth the persnickety work that would be? If there's any good advice out there - I'd love to hear it. Thanks in advance Anna
  11. I had a Summer class at PSU where I made over 150 pieces, most fired in the collective kiln loads. I had a small apartment with my wife, and only storage inside was in the bedroom. The pinging at night was so noisy that we could not sleep! The pots went on to the back porch except for a few prize pieces. By the next summer, almost every piece was gone. No more pinging. In my own firings I have had some pinging and crazing, changes in glaze and bisque over the years had alleviated that. There is a science to firing, but then again there is an art in knowing when to turn up and when to turn it off. Cones do a lot to indicate when to turn it off, but not much else for when firing either with setter or manually. I often find that color/temperature is my best indicator of when to change switches. best, Pres
  12. If the clay is vitrified (or very low absorption) then they will hold water without leaking, regardless of whether they are glazed or not. Did you use cones to verify the kiln got to cone 6? If you hear pinging they are crazed, if the glazes are very dark it can be hard to see the craze lines. Sumi (calligraphy) ink brushed on the rinsed off under the tap will show craze lines on lighter coloured glazes. Glaze shouldn't craze with doing this.
  13. First call BCS and leave a message telling them that you'll be cancelling the order of you don't hear from them ASAP. If they don't respond, call Shimpo and see if they know anything about your order, and let them know that you're getting bad customer service from BCS. If you haven't received the wheel and no one can answer your questions, then contact your credit card company and ask them about what action you can take to cancel the order. The potential problem here is if the wheel has already shipped and you cancel payment, you'll have to either un-cancel it, or return the wheel.
  14. The issue with flameware bodies is not glaze leaching, but rather the pieces cracking due to thermal expansion. I would never trust a non-flameware body over an open flame. Discoloration in the water is not an acceptable test for leaching. At the very least you should test with acid, such as vinegar or lemon juice, but the only way to be sure is to send samples off to a lab.
  15. Get some ink and rub it on the glaze, sometimes it looks un-crazed but the craze lines are very thin and far apart. I've never had pinging without at least some crazing. My ash glaze will craze where it pools and I can hear it before I even open up the kiln.
  16. I have found that my regular clay fired to cone 9 works well. Glaze you have to be cautious about, but I recommend looking for recipes for cone 9, but test them on a stovetop with water and see if any color seeps into the water. If not, you should be good to go. You could test by taking a sample of the water with a water testing kit prior to boiling it, then after if the water test reads the same, then you're good to go.
  17. I actually prefer to fire in a kiln less densely loaded. Just make sure you load efficiently, placing pots evenly apart, and know that the firing may complete and cool faster. Good luck, Brandon
  18. Nope! Just wedge the clay, you may want to add water and wedge it on a warmer surface so "loosen" up the clay. Although it sounds odd, it works very well. Hope this help, Brandon
  19. Hello, I just unloaded a kiln load and noticed a substantial amount of pinging. My kiln is pretty much brand new (firing #3) and it reached cone 6. The pots are not crazed and hold water perfectly. The glaze seems to "fit" the clay and I see no glaze peeling. I have used both clay and glaze together before with no issues. I cracked the kiln around 300 F and opened it at 250 F. Hopefully, I can get an explanation.
  20. When making plaster casts of things I’ve had pretty good luck using olive oil as my mold release agent, the spray cooking olive oil works well.
  21. Yes, Magma does need to sit for a bit. As per the directions in the link I posted above "Wait approximately 6 hours."
  22. Add CMC to water, stir lightly, let sit overnight, blend.
  23. From what I can tell, they only stock a few items and everything else they order it from the distributor when you order it from them. This can add weeks or months to the process. This doesn't apply to wheels and kilns, these are drop shipped like Stephen said, but they should still be letting you know if and when it's shipped.
  24. There's continental clay in minnesoter too, might be worth the drive if you get a ton.
  25. I think I am confused. I thought you were talking about a small kiln for jewelry making (like 1 cubic foot or less) and there are a number of choices for small new kilns, with an electronic controller, that are close to that price range and fire to cone 8/10. I would think about exactly what size kiln you want/need. Larger kilns might be a really bad choice for what you are doing and with more electric requirements you could be looking at almost your entire budget to have the electrical work done to fire it unless you already have the larger dedicated outlet. Here's a link to small kilns at clay-king and they have a lot of $6-$700 US options new with electronic controllers and use 120 electric. I get that the free shipping might not apply to you but still might be a good point of reference. http://www.clay-king.com/smallkilns.htm We use mid-fire porcelain and the important thing to consider is if the clay you use (porcelain or stoneware) is fully vitrified. With the small kilns you will need to make sure that if you want to use mid-fire (cone 5-6) that you buy at least a cone 8 kiln. Everyone loves a deal but if you can get new then you will be using the latest tech and the kiln will prob last you a life time if you take care of it. Have fun shopping.
  26. Disciple5- Depending where in Wisconsin you are located there are s couple that come up in a web search for “clay suppliers near Wisconsin”. Paoli Clay https://maps.google.com/maps?vet=12ahUKEwiZjoDf0ebhAhVOiqwKHSpCCX0Q30owAHoECAsQQA..i&hl=en-us&client=safari&um=1&ie=UTF-8&fb=1&gl=us&entry=s&sa=X&ftid=0x8807b73a38c22fad:0x7adb4f6c51d15718&gmm=CgIgAQ%3D%3D and The Potters Shop https://maps.google.com/maps?vet=12ahUKEwiZjoDf0ebhAhVOiqwKHSpCCX0Q30owAXoECAsQSg..i&hl=en-us&client=safari&lqi=Ch1jbGF5IHN1cHBsaWVycyBuZWFyIHdpc2NvbnNpbhlNb19sr4phD1oQCg5jbGF5IHN1cHBsaWVycw&um=1&ie=UTF-8&fb=1&gl=us&entry=s&sa=X&ftid=0x8805a8a41db2827b:0xba6baf188a87804a&gmm=CgIgAQ%3D%3D are the first two that come up. Regards, Fred
  27. I've been using Vaseline in turpentine for mold release. Got the tip from a mold master. Seems to be the ticket.
  1. Load more activity
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.