Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'manual kiln'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Ceramic Arts Daily Forums
    • Forum FAQ & Terms of Use
    • Studio Operations and Making Work
    • Clay and Glaze Chemistry
    • Equipment Use and Repair
    • Business, Marketing, and Accounting
    • Educational Approaches and Resources
    • Aesthetic Approaches and Philosophy
    • Int'l Ceramic Artists Network (ICAN) Operations and Benefits
    • Ceramic Events of Interest
    • Community Marketplace – Buy/Sell/Trade/Free

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 6 results

  1. Hi all! I just finished converting an old electric kiln to gas. The firing will be totally manual, no kiln sitter involved. Having never fired a gas kiln, I know my learning curve will be steep! But I need a few pointers to get started. I want to start out with a glaze firing, ^5, mainly because I don’t have any greenware to bisque right now. I have a few “sacrificial pieces” that I am willing to use to start the learning process. I have a pyrometer and witness cones ready to go. So, my main question has to do with ramping at this point. How fast do I want the kiln to increase in temperature on the way up to ^5? The pieces I have are made from Laguna 52 Buff, and glazed with Spectrum underglaze and/or Spectrum ^5 glaze. Idk if that makes a difference, or not. I am a wheel thrower, and I typically throw thin. Don’t know if that matters, or not, either! I realize that glaze firing in particular can vary based on the desired effect, but I’m looking for a basic framework to start from. Based on my small test fire (only brought the kiln up to about 900-1000*, empty, to decide if I need one burner or two) my biggest fear is that the temperature will rise too quickly, and the heat stress will cause issues-up to and including cracking/exploding. Thanks! Amy
  2. Hey so I'm some what new to kilns and repairs, I got this kiln from an estate sale it needed a few parts but it was fully functional so far I've successfuly completed 2 full firing cycles bisque and glaze to 1080°c I'm happy with the results. I've been planning some cool peices for Christmas presents and I need to fire ASAP but the last fire I did Was a fix up firing for peices that needed to go a bit hotter and the kiln sitter didn't turn off lucky I was there to shut it off, I checked it and the cone 04 hadn't melted, the wares were fine and seemed to have done ok; I hadn't been using witness cones. So yesterday I test fired it for about 2 hours going up to setting 8 which should be s somewhere in the 1200 -1500 range I believe and the sitter still didn't turn off at cone 04 and the cone didn't melt. And the witness cones didn't seem to melt either, so I don't know what's wrong with it I cant see any visable problems except maybe some of the outer metal needs tightening (I'm planning on buying a pyrometer and a kiln plug for the peephole, I think converting to digital is a bit hard and expensive) Is there an obvious problem? Any ideas how to fix, should I pay for a firing service for my Christmas items? I live quite close to some Images on Google drive click link https://drive.google.com/file/d/12KorbzihiuWqlyPAxMyj5E5pRjNnirPx/view?usp=sharing Thanks for any help Rory
  3. I purchased an inexpensive kiln, second hand and very old. It’s made by Dryads of Leicester, I’ve searched and searched for info on them or a manual and I just can’t find a thing. Must be because it’s discontinued. the kiln operates with a dial, and it seems to go two ways with heating circuit off at 6oclock and full at 11oclock and 1 Oclock. Has anyone come across such a kiln? What does the dial means for bisque and glaze fires. thanks
  4. So... I bought a used Skutt 181 manual kiln (manufactured in 1975 FYI) for $170 and I am now at a point where if not regretting the buy, I am considering whether putting in the repairs needed for it are worth the money, OR, if I should just cut my losses and look for a newer/better condition kiln. I'll list the conditions and potential repairs, and pictures if possible. So, to start, there was no power cord/plug so I had to buy one, not too much of a biggie-was able to find a proper plug/cord for $20. For the time being I can't afford the re-wiring for a new (240) outlet so I'll be using a heavy duty proper amp/temp rated extension cord to reach our dryer outlet; that's another $90. The plug for the kiln is 4 prong, outlet is 3 prong - the proper converter cost $40. So that's an additional $150 and I don't even know if it works yet. AND there was no furniture included - lowest price for a couple shelves and stilts is around $250...sigh. And need 4 peep hole plugs. Now on to the potential issues. One, the porcelain tube around the kiln sitter is broken though the (thermocoupler) rod inside seems fine. So that will need to be replaced. Not sure of $ for that. Two, it seems that some bees had used it as a hive? As I was doing some inspection-cleaning of the elements and grooves in the brick I got out a bunch of debris from it-only mention this because some of the bee combs are inside the coils. I expect that those will smoke like crazy if the elements work when turned on. For the elements themselves, the top set looks good-all silver no apparent corrosion. The bottom set though is quite brown and likely need to be replaced. Pricing the replacements it's about $44 per set and I think this model needs 2 (maybe 3?). So, $132. Three-the brick had some scoring/brown on it but it wasn't til I started cleaning that I saw how deteriorated all 8 sides of the bottom section are. As in, the brick for the whole bottom (kiln sitter) layer is crumbling like crazy. So those are about $14 a piece, add a couple more than the 8 I know are needed to make 10, is $140. So- just to get the kiln up and running I'm looking at $422 and that's not even including the furniture.... I have seen newer/better condition kilns (with furniture and plug/cord) listed for $500... Is it better to cut my losses and get a different kiln OR put the $ into repairing this one? One additional question re the leads from the cord- comes with 4 colors, green, black, white, red. My understanding is that I don't attach the green, and don't need to use/ attach the red or white-which only leaves the black. Am I correct? I want to be able to get power to it so I can determine what needs to be fixed (whether I keep it or not). Thanks in advance for your insights!
  5. Hi, is there a way to slow cool an older non digital kiln where I manually change temps and has a kiln sitter? I want to try some of the Coyote Cone 6 crystalline glazes but I only have an older Electric paragon kiln. Any ideas would be appreciated!
  6. I have an old manual L&L kiln that has an analog pyrometer, 3 thermocouples attached to a central gauge, which recently pooped out on me. I came to realize that I don't need to have them in at all times, since I only need to check the temperatures occasionally in order to turn the switches up or down. They were never really accurate anyway, since I could fiddle with the dial and the needle would fluctuate wildly, but gave me a general sense of where the kiln was. At first I looked for a digital version of the thing I was using, but then since I couldn't find one, I thought that I may not even need that. From what I'm reading, they shouldn't stay in all the time anyway if they're not connected to the control panel, right? And then I won't have little piles of flaky black crust landing on my shelves. So in looking for a pyrometer that I could just insert into the 3 zones, get the readings and remove it, I saw an infrared thermometer that goes well beyond the temperature I'd need. Does anyone use something like this to measure inside your kiln up to cone 6? Is a regular digital pyrometer with a thermocouple better? I just want to have a way to see where I am with my firing, to know when to turn up the settings and watch for cones to start dropping. I'm not doing anything fancy at all with my glazing, and with bisque I pretty much turn the dials at set times and then let the kiln sitter drop on its own. I plan to get a new kiln at some point in the future, and relegate this to bisque only, so this doesn't need to be an expensive or high tech option! https://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Thermometer-Non-Contact-Flashlight-Temperature/dp/B079HHSHLQ/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=digital%2Bceramic%2Bpyrometer&qid=1584029731&s=hi&sr=1-4&th=1
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.