seancisse Posted October 16, 2013 Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 Hi, I'm new on this forum. I'm Freanch and get pottery's virus in Taiwan Anyway, Barry, one of my teacher, was using oxide wash in a bucket. Unfortunatly he passed away and I realised that I've never ask his recipe I've search on internet, but most of the information were "vague". So to make an oxide wash, we need oxide (OK) and water (OK) but in what proportion? And is there something else? I've try but the result was bad. And with time the oxide settle at the bottom of the bucket, where with Barry the oxide never setlle. Could you give me some advice or recipe of your own? Thanks in advance Sean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biglou13 Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 WELCOME as far as mixes ive only played with red iron oxide, and the formula was also vague, and yes mine settled also. teach says just mix it in until it looks dark on clay. i suppose my intuition worked cause the wash always worked out. i only measured once with small batches and went from 2 % to 6% and all served their purpose. i was thinking a little bentonite my suspend rio. but never tried, i just shake, scrape bottom of pail,cover shake again. you dont state what color or type of oxide wash. there is more than just RIO. by "Freanch" i assume you mean french? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayjay Posted October 17, 2013 Report Share Posted October 17, 2013 Oxide washes are a moveable feast - you can do pretty much what you like with them as far as mixing goes. The simplest will be oxide + water: moving on from there you could add a flux and some ball clay. Lots of ideas here:- http://www.shambhalapottery.com/oxidewashes.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Throws Pots Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 Hi Sean, I keep a few oxide washes mixed at my studio. As mentioned above, the percentage of oxide is a matter of preference and aesthetic. I generally add about a tablespoon of RIO or BIO for every 6-8oz of water. I will often add a small amount - maybe a 1/2 teaspoon - of vee gum to help help suspend the oxide in the water and thicken the mixture up a bit. For cobalt oxide, a trick I've picked up is to use potently brewed green tea rather than water. The thought being the acidity of the green tea helps to bring out the desired blue. I'm not sure if it really has any effect, but it sure smells nice. I tend not to use vee gum in the cobalt wash. Cheers, Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seancisse Posted October 29, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 Thanks Chris. Stupid question: what are RIO, BIO and vee gum (OK for gum, but vee)? PS: I'm french, and some foreing words are difficult for me to understand Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted October 29, 2013 Report Share Posted October 29, 2013 Red Iron Oxide, Black Iron Oxide. Vee-Gum-T is a plasticizer, often used to add plasticity to porcelain, and also to aid in brushability and to keep glaze materials in suspension. It is often used in combination with CMC gum (carboxymethylcellulose) for brushing glazes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iforgot Posted November 8, 2013 Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 Sean, My favorite oxide wash is a Rutile wash, just mix 50% rutile, 48% gerstley borate, and 2% bentonite. Mix with water until about skim milk consistency. This provides a warm yellow on majolica, a great brown at midfire, and a really cool textured orange under celadon at ^11. Darrel P.s. Bienvenue! Je suis content que vous utilisez cette grande ressource pour vos questions et préoccupations! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mart Posted November 8, 2013 Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 is Vee-Gum-T same as bentonite? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted November 8, 2013 Report Share Posted November 8, 2013 is Vee-Gum-T same as bentonite? Sort of. Bentonite is a fine, light-weight clay that helps things stay in suspension because it does not settle like other heavier ingredients. Vee Gum T is Bentonite that also has Sodium Carboxymethylcellulose added to it. So, Vee Gum T without the SCMC added to it is . . . Bentonite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JBaymore Posted November 9, 2013 Report Share Posted November 9, 2013 Try this one for cone 8-14. Take a glass jar that is about 3" in diameter or so. Put in a brand new Briillo pad. The Brillo pad should just lie flat side down in the bottom of the jar. Add enough water to 3/4 cover the Brillo pad depth-wise. Put the jar someplace safe for a few days. Wait until the Brillo pad has basically disolved (rusted away). Use this mixture of the chemistry of the soaps and the rusted steel for iron brushwork. best, .......................john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smastca Posted November 10, 2013 Report Share Posted November 10, 2013 John - how well does this work for cone 6? It sounds brilliant though..... Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JBaymore Posted November 11, 2013 Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 Works at 6 too........ just not as nice. You can use it all the way down to earthenware temps. Best in reduction though. You can concentrate the liquid for more intense color..... evaporate or boil. best, .......................john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted November 11, 2013 Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 John, You mentioned soap, are you referring tho the brillo pads that are impregnated with soap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frederik-W Posted November 11, 2013 Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 Absolutely brilliant ! I have to try it. (For those who do not know - and I did not - a Brillo pad is a pad of steel wool impregnated with soap). ... Wait until the Brillo pad has basically disolved (rusted away). Use this mixture of the chemistry of the soaps and the rusted steel for iron brushwork. best, .......................john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayjay Posted November 11, 2013 Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 (For those who do not know - and I did not - a Brillo pad is a pad of steel wool impregnated with soap). Just for a change, Brillo pads are exactly the same thing under the same name in the UK. Quite often when brand names are mentioned on here I have to resort to google to have any idea of what's what. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JBaymore Posted November 11, 2013 Report Share Posted November 11, 2013 Babs, Yes... soap and all. ayjay, Sorry about the "Americanism". FredrickW, Thanks. best, ....................john PS: I've had an assignment I developed for my ceramic mateials courses that I have been using since the 70's back at Massart. It asks students to make a ceramic glaze out of non-commercial, non-traditional, non ceramics supplier based materials. I've had recipes that consist of something like (this is not real... just an example of kinds of ingredients) 10 large Tums antacids, 5 tablespoons of Kaopectate, one large clam shell ground thru 80 mesh, 1/2 cup of garden dirt, and 10 drops of liquid MiracleGrow fertilizer. It creatively gets students thinking about ceramic chemistry and what is IN various products and what the proprotions of raw materials sources need to be. They hav a lot of fun with it. (I of course screen for inappropriate really toxic choices .) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tenyoh Posted August 12, 2016 Report Share Posted August 12, 2016 Oxide washes are a moveable feast - you can do pretty much what you like with them as far as mixing goes. The simplest will be oxide + water: moving on from there you could add a flux and some ball clay. Lots of ideas here:- http://www.shambhalapottery.com/oxidewashes.html As I try to mix my own washes. I found this old topic useful. What kind of flux do you recommend to mix with oxide, water, and ball clay? I usually fire my sculptural works to ∆06~04 and functional ware to ∆5. I'm hoping to use the washes for both purposes. Does frit-3134 stay matte at low temperature? The above website no longer exists. If you know any other sites that beginners could learn about oxide washes, I will appreciate it. I've been using Mayco rutile wash, which fires from ∆06 to ∆11. As my supplier does not carry it, I'm hoping to make my own. I'll appreciate your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted August 13, 2016 Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 http://shambhalapottery.blogspot.com/2013/03/happy-st-paddys-day.html Here is a link to June Perry's wash recipes . . . she is Shambhala Pottery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Sweet Posted August 13, 2016 Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 Tenyuo- The effective melting range for 3134 is: 1450-1600F. Virtually a glaze at 06 temperatures. Would be glossy on its own, but with the addition of oxide (stain) and clay, may matte out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tenyoh Posted August 13, 2016 Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 bciskepottery, thank you very much for the link. I was able to access it this time. Fred, it sounds like I just have to experiment. Thank you very much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted August 13, 2016 Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 You may find this link of interest: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/435090013978827445/ It is a listing of Van Gilder wash recipes. best, Pres Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tch Posted August 13, 2016 Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 Try this one for cone 8-14. Take a glass jar that is about 3" in diameter or so. Put in a brand new Briillo pad. The Brillo pad should just lie flat side down in the bottom of the jar. Add enough water to 3/4 cover the Brillo pad depth-wise. Put the jar someplace safe for a few days. Wait until the Brillo pad has basically disolved (rusted away). Use this mixture of the chemistry of the soaps and the rusted steel for iron brushwork. best, .......................john This made me think of a woodworking trick, basically the same idea, but using steel wool and vinegar. Was used to blacken a section of timber or give it the look of ebony. Might be an alternative for those that don't have brillo pads on hand, I imagine it would work about the same, but haven't tried it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alabama Posted August 22, 2016 Report Share Posted August 22, 2016 Here is a cup with black iron oxide stain wiped on. Sometimes the brown opaque glaze I use for this cup will bleed thru. (A plus) Staining the bottom brings out the incised information...name, date, cone fired to, pounds of clay used to make the vessel, country of origin and date used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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