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Iforgot

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  • Content Count

    156
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About Iforgot

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday July 25

Profile Information

  • Location
    Colorado
  • Interests
    Pit firing, Majolica, Raku, anything with "Pyro" as the prefix.
  1. Okay, I have 2 good gray recipes at my studio, next time im by there ill write down the recipes and post them.
  2. Sean, My favorite oxide wash is a Rutile wash, just mix 50% rutile, 48% gerstley borate, and 2% bentonite. Mix with water until about skim milk consistency. This provides a warm yellow on majolica, a great brown at midfire, and a really cool textured orange under celadon at ^11. Darrel P.s. Bienvenue! Je suis content que vous utilisez cette grande ressource pour vos questions et préoccupations!
  3. You could also try adding CMC gum solution, a commercial suspension agent, or glycerin a tablespoon at a time. Darrel
  4. I have a few recipes, if you want them, however adding a black stain to a white matte is the easiest solution. Darrel
  5. sold to his first gallery

  6. Hey Potters, I need a grey or lavender celadon glaze for cone 6 oxidation that is compatible with a white stoneware body rather than a porcelain. Thank you so much! Darrel
  7. Im collecting cow dung ash and dirt from various places. I figure that I can make an ash glaze and a slip. Darrel
  8. road kill bags................OK, you have the lead so far. By-the-way. if anyone want tumbleweed ash. I'm taking orders for this year's crop. Harvesting starts around October and really never ends. Jed Totally, who doesn't need tumbleweed ash. E-mail with order information, or I can email you. You can reach me at darrelspottery@gmail.com. Darrel
  9. This recipe is a ripe cantaloupe color. EPK14.00g Silica26.00g Wollastonite14.50g F-4 Feldspar24.00g Frit 324920.00g Add 5% of Mason stain 6121 Good Luck! Darrel
  10. Well, in that case, if a glaze recipe dose not contain lead, cadmium, barium, manganese, or any other harmful material then is having leach testing for lead, cadmium, and the like pointless? Darrel
  11. Darrel, A few questions that might help us figure out whats going on with your kiln: What brand kiln is it? What is the model #? What phase and voltage is it? (check the mfg tag) Its odd for a cone to break in the sitter, are you sure you have it in correctly? Answer these questions, and I can give you some more specific information on how to test the elements, providing you have a multimeter (if you dont, go get one--it'll cost you 15.00 for a cheapie digital one that can read resistance and you will find it indispensable.) My kiln is a Duncan DK716-2 and it is a
  12. Darrel, A few questions that might help us figure out whats going on with your kiln: What brand kiln is it? What is the model #? What phase and voltage is it? (check the mfg tag) Its odd for a cone to break in the sitter, are you sure you have it in correctly? Answer these questions, and I can give you some more specific information on how to test the elements, providing you have a multimeter (if you dont, go get one--it'll cost you 15.00 for a cheapie digital one that can read resistance and you will find it indispensable.) My kiln is a Duncan DK716-2 and it is a 2
  13. Hello Potters, I am having a bit of an issue. I got an electric kiln for my home studio fairly recently, and because I don't make a huge amount of work from my home studio I have only glaze fired a few times. Well, the max temperature for my kiln is cone 6 and I fire all of my work to cone 5 and the big issue is that every glaze firing I do takes between 14 and 16 hours. First of all, this is a lot of electricity, and secondly, when unloading all of these firings I have noticed that not one of the cones on the cone pack have bended at all, and the cone in the sitter isn't bent, it's broken.
  14. What brand B-mix are you using? Darrel
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