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About Tenyoh

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Country of prairies and hills
  • Interests
    sustainable living, hiking, eating good food, good laughter
  1. It seems high absorbent clays are not ideal for most of the functional ware (provided there are wet wool ). I'll keep that in my mind from now on. Mark C, I am considering to mail-order Laguna clay. All I need for now is a box. That should work. Thank you all again for your input.
  2. Besides seeping, what else problems do you anticipate with absorbent clays? I was going to make something like yarn bowls and spoon rests with that clay.
  3. Glad I can access to this forum today. I did the tests suggested by you. Re: Crackles A test with Epsom Salt did not work (I dissolved the salt in hot water and then added an equal amount of vinagar), but it worked with lime stone. Crackles I saw were so superficial that they disappeared once I wiped the powder. They must go zigzag through the glaze all the way to the clay surface. Hopefully a 10-minute hold will solve this problem. Re: Vitrification I tested with an unglazed chunk of clay that had been fired to cone 6. The absorption level was 4.4%. Percolator, you recommended to fi
  4. Thanks for the ideas for the household item substitutes. I have toothpaste and epsom salts. I'll give them a try. You all are with full of ideas and expertise. I feel heartened. Thank you so much.
  5. Thank you, MathewV, for the info. Yesterday I epoxy-glued decorative feet on the bottom of the vases and then tested for the weeping again. (As I had anticipated the problem, I had made the feet at the same time with the vases.) Ventilation of the dry South Dakota air seemed to have helped. The bottoms felt cool to touch, but not wet this morning. I put small pieces of folded paper under the vases between the legs, to see if it will get damp by this evening. I learned a lot in this post. Thank you very very much. I don't have Whiting. Do you think I can substitute it with baki
  6. The clay manufacturer's catalog does not even list the absorbency of clays they sell. Yes, I will look for another supplier and test the clay as Min suggested. Thank you very much. Douglas, I tried this method using ball clay. I may have used too much clay. When I dumped the water, it left streaks and lumps and it was difficult to see fine cracks. Thank you for your suggestion, though.
  7. Thank you for your responses. As Mark C.'s answer was interesting, I called the clay manufacturer. They said even though the clay had the broad range, it should not affect the vitrification. "Even cone-10 clay will seep after awhile." "You have to seal with glaze." Their answer confused me about the vitrification. They recommended to hold the kiln for 10 minutes to seal the crazes and pinholes. Even though I don't see them, they must be there. MathewV, have you experimented with holding the kiln?
  8. I'm making ikebana vases and having a problem with water seeping out the unglazed bottom. As I thought the clay vitrification was the problem, I fired the second batch one cone higher - to cone 6. (The firing range of stoneware I used was cone 06-6.) After the firing, I poured water into the vases and waited overnight. To my disappointment, water still weeped through. I read in your former topic, "If the glaze crazes, then liquids can seep through the cracks in the glaze and into the wall of the pot, and weep out the unglazed bottom." Amaco Potters Choice glazes I used do not look crazed, bu
  9. Isculpt, this site is OUR work of your knowledge. Yes, it is always good to learn from each other. Thank you.
  10. Thank you, thank you, thank you, Jayne. I miss exchanging emails with you. I'm at the stage I want to experiment with clays and colors. How could they work together to bring out the magic and mystery of art?
  11. Here is how I prepared for my first sculpture show with generous help from isculpt. Hope some of the information in this album will be helpful to you, especially if you're a ceramic sculptor and preparing for a show for the first time.
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