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Chris Throws Pots

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About Chris Throws Pots

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    Advanced Member

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    http://www.ChrisThrowsPots.com

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  • Location
    Vermont
  • Interests
    Snowboarding, skateboarding, good food and drink, screenprinting, pottery.

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  1. I’ve had plucking at cone 6/7 using high alumina kiln shelves without wash. I always wash the shelves used by our students but keep a personal set for my own work. I never washed those... just marked them A side and B side with RIO and alternated sides for glaze firings to prevent warping. After a while I started getting plucked feet so I started kiln washing. If there’s something else I can do to prevent plucking please let me know. I’d much prefer to not use kiln wash. Grinder update: I bought a $40 Bosch corded grinder with a slide lock switch. It’s probably in my head and makes no difference, but knowing how wrong things can go with an angler grinder I felt better going with a brand I know and trust.
  2. I use high alumina shelves in a community studio with lots of beginners learning how to glaze so kiln wash is a must for us.
  3. I appreciate the feedback. I don’t have an air setup so corded or battery are my current options. I see some of the corded models have a paddle switch that can be locked on so maybe that’s a happy medium?The corded Ryobi grinder I’ve been using for the last 10 years was purchased for probably $60. I don’t mind spending a bit extra for a better quality/safer product but the cordless Milwaukee is probably excessive given my only use for a grinder is kiln shelf maintenance. I’m only considering it because I already have tools using that battery platform and I can get one with a battery for $179 at the big orange box. The battery alone retails for $129 so the tool would essentially be $50. But the special is only offered on the paddle switch version, not the slide lock.
  4. It's time to replace my angle grinder and I'm torn between sticking with slide-style on/off switch that locks the grinder on, or switching to the paddle-style. I have always used grinders with the locking slide switches, but the increased safety of the paddle switch seems a good thing to invest in. However I'm concerned that keeping the paddle engaged could be tiresome and uncomfortable when grinding a stack of shelves (sometimes 30+ in a session). What grinder do you use? Anyone have a paddle-style and love it? Hate it? Anyone made the switch from slide to paddle? Drilling down one more level into specifics: I have several Milwaukee M18 Fuel tools and if I go cordless for the new grinder it would be with one of the M18 brushless grinders so that I can use the same battery platform I already have for drills, drivers, etc. If anyone has experience with these particular grinders I'd appreciate your review of the tool for grinding kiln shelves. How long will a 5.0 battery last when grinding glaze spots and kiln wash?
  5. The studio where I work has a bin labeled "ALUMINA" but it doesn't say whether it's hydrate or oxide. I'd like to mix up some alumnina wax to help prevent lids from sticking and am curious if: Does it matter if it's hydrate or oxide? If it does matter, what test can I run to determine which it is? If it's relevant, I've made kiln wash and wadding using this many times over the years. And when I've ordered it to replenish the bin, I've always just asked for alumina.
  6. @merryrogue To second what Hulk said, equally important to my pottery and display, whether for a 6' table show or a full 10'10 canopy show, is my hand truck. I cannot emphasize enough how valuable a good hand truck is. Pottery is heavy. Tables are heavy. Displays are heavy. Moving in to your new place at your masters program will be heavy. My advice: invest in a well constructed hand-truck. Mine converts from an upright to a flat/four-wheeled dolly and it is well worth it's pricetag: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-800-lb-Capacity-2-in-1-Convertible-Hand-Truck-CHT800P/100071520. Also, if there is a newspaper in your area you can usually get endrolls of blank newsprint for free that are great for wrapping pots. Past issues of newspapers work well too, but I often cringe at wrapping my work in the current events. Have great shows!
  7. Start with a solid block of clay and carve away.
  8. Wedge while the clay is room temp and store the prepped balls in an insulated cooler?
  9. @liambesaw Yikes! But aside from the explosion, no issues? That feels like a weird thing to write. How hot did it get under the water? If you touched the heater with your hand would it burn you?
  10. Does anyone use an aquarium heater in their throwing water to keep it warm? I am considering trying one but am curious if anyone has experience with them, specifically if they are effective once clay gets in the bucket and if the constant cycle of getting grit and muck on them poses any risk of damage/shock.
  11. 2185 with a 15 minute hold should get you to 6 in a way that'll allow you to get into your controlled cooling segments of the firing while limiting the risk of glazes running all over the place at peak. But you should include cones in your firing to inform how best to adjust top temp if the program doesn't get you to 6.
  12. Attach a small bobber to the end of your chamois or plastic and you'll never find yourself fishing (grooooaaannnnn) for it again.
  13. Respectfully, it's not a nightmare and you are not out of luck. It's an inconvenience, pretty typical of doing business in any sector. Bel was selling sheets at roughly $1 per page. Fired On sells at roughly $3 per page. If you consider how many decals you can fit onto a single sheet (unless you are printing very large/full sheet decals), the cost increase to produce each piece is negligible. The potential savings using another manufacturer's paper is simply not worth the risk of legal trouble. Production costs increase in all types of businesses all the time.
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