Hulk

I cranked it down quite a bit and it's definitely better, but I think perhaps a new belt is in order anyway. Thanks for all the help!

Aye, and the more it slips, the slicker it gets!

From http://www.potters.org/subject03706.htm  my emphasis
Vince Pitelka on thu 21 nov 96

Welcome to the forum
Ream them out with a needle tool after the glaze dries. Many glazes are different-shiny matt etc.I just use a needle tool and clean them. You will not notice tham once fired.
For me the the hole had to be 1/4 or larger not to clean them out. To end up with a 1/8 inch hole you will need to ream out the glaze-you can also use a small hand held drill bit

Thanks for your suggestions Min.  I tried the smashing and it was revealing and messy (and somewhat therapeutic).   All of the Laguna 65 clay glazed with Spearmint shattered into many shards of different sizes, so it obviously wasn't very strong.  I smashed ware that hadn't gone through stress tests, as well as those that had.  They all shattered about the same degree so crazing may or may not have had a hand in that.  I knew the glaze was under tension so the result was not unexpected.  As a comparison I tried smashing cups that I'd made with different clays, but with the same glaze, and they broke in fewer pieces or they just bounced off the cement without breaking.  I'd previously tried several glazes on this same clay and this HCSM glaze was the only survivor and now, it too, is destined for the discard pile.  All in all, a great learning opportunity but I'm glad it's behind me.  
 

We couldn’t do something like give you an exact recipe just by looking at this image, or even ballpark it without knowing what temperature it was fired to. The best we can do give a set of parameters to look for in order to replicate the effect. It’ll get you in the ballpark, but you’ll still have to do some testing. 
There’s some flaws here that would make me think whatever this exact glaze is, it’s probably not the best glaze to use as a liner. The glaze pooling that deeply and the heavy crazing could indicate that this glaze runs quite a bit, and that it might not be the most durable thing ever. Usually a glaze that heavily crazed will cause a pot to weep if the clay you’re using isn’t fully mature at the cone you’re firing to. The runniness could mean that the glaze is over fired at this temperature, or that it has too much flux and consequently might not be durable. 
The good news is, there’s lots of ways to get this shade of green in a more user friendly fashion at a variety of working temperatures. If you let us know what temperature you’re firing to and what clay you’re using, we can point you in the right direction.

Vinyl will be sticky because it doesn’t absorb any water, and canvas not only holds dust, but it keeps whatever’s under it from drying, which eventually will rot a wood table.
I switched to a concrete patio paver on my wedging table, and much prefer it to canvas. Others have recommended cement board as an alternative to that because it’s lighter. I think even just having finished plywood would give the right balance of a surface that will release clay, and without the canvas holding the water, it’ll be less prone to rot.

More comfort: good lighting, overhead and side light in agreeable colours; air, fresh and comfortable temperature; music/radio/podcast or whatever you like, including silence (I usually put on my favourite locally produced public radio shows streamed via old laptop connected to 5.1 surround sound), chairs.
All Min said, and more buckets, large sponges, rags, lots - once any clay has dried on a rag, grab a new one, for clay on cloth becomes airborne dust.
Stay ahead of the dust!

https://www.google.com/maps/uv?pb=!1s0x484f9284fed2bc59%3A0xb58a060d44581e22!5sJulia Clarke Pottery!15sCgIgARICEAE&authuser=1&imagekey=!1e10!2sAF1QipPLh7uG7iTEJXb2wQy8DygY8GyEpQzoXLojRGFm#Hi
Hi  Everyone, Im trying to identify the glaze of this pot or something similar. It gives a melted glass look in the bottom.
Apologies I dont know what the URL is  I had to post to my Google business in order to get a link, its just a personal photo and I have no idea if Ive done it correctly ,
its just a load of jargon to me !
Thanks in advance, Julia
 
 

Welcome to the Forum, Julia! I would guess that it is a thick layer of clear glaze since the crazing of the green shows through...

Canvas catches clay dust badly-the smooth cleanable surface is better for table tops

One from Glazy below. I have found that with dark glazes it is hard to see crazing, there is a thread here where @Pieter Mostert suggests "Fill the vase with a mixture of vinegar and Whiting (it will bubble) and let it stand overnight. The Whiting and vinegar react to form calcium acetate, which is soluble, so will migrate into the body if it allows water to seep through. After you empty the vase, the calcium acetate will slowly migrate to the surface as the body dries out, and will concentrate along any craze lines." If you try this and it works it would be great if you share your findings here as there isn't much info on this. 
I've also read about Ron Roy accidentally highlighting crazing with steam. Apparently he had a bowl of hot mashed potatoes and the steam from the potatoes showed in the craze lines.  Don't know if it was a matte glaze or not. 
Another thing that helps with testing for crazing on glazes which aren't dark is to use Sumi or calligraphy ink instead of a felt pen. It seems to show crazing better than a felt pen. In the image below the author states they used ink.

Bamboo chopsticks work very well for any modeling of fine areas. Using a dremel or even a knife to shape them gives you a variety of small tools. These also work well for making whistles. . .cheap way to make a classful of whistle making tools.
 
best,
Pres

I am not much of a tool maker but I do collect little wood ice cream spoons.  You can easily reshape them with a knife or dremel tool and make a tool to  smooth a odd corner when you are doing a sculpture or hand building.  They eventually break apart,  popsickle sticks will work but the spoon gives you more options.   Denice

I have a plastic bench scraper that is the best thing for scraping down glaze buckets. It isn’t really altered from its original form, but it’s an off-label use. 
I don’t own tool making tools, like a grinder or a torch. But I find that if you use your metal rib as a trimming tool to refine curves, it takes the sharp edge off just fine. Word to the wise: don’t clean your rib off with your hands: scrape it on the edge of your bucket!

Favorite needle tool is a small screwdriver that my Dad had ground down to a point.
I like the handle - it's shorter than the typical pointer/needle tool - and larger in diameter. The entire tool is also rather short, which I prefer (except when a long one is needed).
It's also easy to find and doesn't roll far when dropped.
Taking inspiration from some of Hsinchuen Lin's early video clips (afore he began marketing his own line of stainless tools), I've an assortment of trimming and chattering tools made from hack saw blades. I've ground off the teeth, heated and bent the blade, then ground the profile. From there, I touch them up with a file. Some of the tools have been repurposed, as the original profile is long gone via sharpening. I don't mind the few moments it takes to resharpen them*.
My favorite (and only) cut-off wire was just the right length (it had been shortened several times!), then it was too short after the last break.
I'd tried several replacement wires, bah!
Now I'm using the core of a bike derailleur cable, which is holding out great. It's very slim, yet resilient.
Derailleur cables (the type I've been using for some time, by Jagwire) have filaments of metal wound around a core cable; I'm unwinding the outer filaments to reveal the core, boom!
Repurposed! Another use for replaced bike cabling! They're also handy for picture frame hanging wires - be sure to completely remove any grease first tho'.
A frosting spatula is so handy! At first I just used it to lever off batts, however, the small arc at the end is just right for mug lip recurve smoothing.
I'm trimming strips off the (automobile) chamois for lip smoothing.
Less often used, I've: several twist drill bits I use for making holes and dressing the holes' edges; a few small kitchen knives for cutting clay; a razor knife that's especially handy for trimming spouts; a few wooden knives/turning tools; a few wooden spoons for extending the inside hand when the hand won't fit; trimmed brushes for slip, glaze, and other stuff too.
At glazing time, there's a few soup ladles (one is a favorite), turkey baster, ear syringe, inexpensive electronic scale, masking tape**, kitchen whisks (one is fitted with a rod, which chucks up to the drill), blade tools for mixing in that bottom bucket edge ...and more, I'll have to take a look, it's been a long slog with no Studio time since October last!
 
*It's easier to keep them sharp then to re-sharpen when totally blunted.
Side note, dressing off the sharpened edges of frequently used metal ribs also doesn't take long; a square-ish edge can also cut, however, the honed razor thin/sharp by clay edge is so much more dangerous!
**plain half or three quarter inch tape makes a sharp clean straight line.
For curvy, I cut the tape into strips.
The pinstriping tape is nice, however, heh, masking tape is inexpensive, and works just fine, given it is cut with a sharp tool.

Favorite needle tool is a small screwdriver that my Dad had ground down to a point.
I like the handle - it's shorter than the typical pointer/needle tool - and larger in diameter. The entire tool is also rather short, which I prefer (except when a long one is needed).
It's also easy to find and doesn't roll far when dropped.
Taking inspiration from some of Hsinchuen Lin's early video clips (afore he began marketing his own line of stainless tools), I've an assortment of trimming and chattering tools made from hack saw blades. I've ground off the teeth, heated and bent the blade, then ground the profile. From there, I touch them up with a file. Some of the tools have been repurposed, as the original profile is long gone via sharpening. I don't mind the few moments it takes to resharpen them*.
My favorite (and only) cut-off wire was just the right length (it had been shortened several times!), then it was too short after the last break.
I'd tried several replacement wires, bah!
Now I'm using the core of a bike derailleur cable, which is holding out great. It's very slim, yet resilient.
Derailleur cables (the type I've been using for some time, by Jagwire) have filaments of metal wound around a core cable; I'm unwinding the outer filaments to reveal the core, boom!
Repurposed! Another use for replaced bike cabling! They're also handy for picture frame hanging wires - be sure to completely remove any grease first tho'.
A frosting spatula is so handy! At first I just used it to lever off batts, however, the small arc at the end is just right for mug lip recurve smoothing.
I'm trimming strips off the (automobile) chamois for lip smoothing.
Less often used, I've: several twist drill bits I use for making holes and dressing the holes' edges; a few small kitchen knives for cutting clay; a razor knife that's especially handy for trimming spouts; a few wooden knives/turning tools; a few wooden spoons for extending the inside hand when the hand won't fit; trimmed brushes for slip, glaze, and other stuff too.
At glazing time, there's a few soup ladles (one is a favorite), turkey baster, ear syringe, inexpensive electronic scale, masking tape**, kitchen whisks (one is fitted with a rod, which chucks up to the drill), blade tools for mixing in that bottom bucket edge ...and more, I'll have to take a look, it's been a long slog with no Studio time since October last!
 
*It's easier to keep them sharp then to re-sharpen when totally blunted.
Side note, dressing off the sharpened edges of frequently used metal ribs also doesn't take long; a square-ish edge can also cut, however, the honed razor thin/sharp by clay edge is so much more dangerous!
**plain half or three quarter inch tape makes a sharp clean straight line.
For curvy, I cut the tape into strips.
The pinstriping tape is nice, however, heh, masking tape is inexpensive, and works just fine, given it is cut with a sharp tool.

Hi Llama,
Welcome to the Forum!
I'm curious if the Artista has a brushed motor, and if so, are the commutator and brushes clean and in good condition?
...I like Neil's idea better tho'.

I ended up using a variety of depths of plastic tubs with towels on the nottom, newspapwr between the pots, and towels on top. One tall one with an extended foot, think tree roots , had a plastic bucket lined with towels and supported by foam bits all to itself!
All home, on their rims, on the shelves, a few touch up colour slips needed . Tomorrow..
Subaru back full, bucket strapped in to front passenger seat. Left fox terrier at home , too risky, eh!

Once demonstrated for a very good attentive group of students. The demonstration was wheel throwing 3# of clay. I told them it was all about touch. . . then proved it by having one of them blind fold me completely. They had seats enough to not get too antsy. I did the entire demo including shaping and trimming the base of a vase form about 8 inches tall with flared belly and narrow neck flaring to the rim. There were some giggles in the audience, but all seemed good until I removed the blindfold and there was my Vice Principal sitting in among the students. She told me afterwards that she would have never approved such a reckless lesson plan. However, she said she was amazed at how I had them enthralled with the demo, and that it was probably the best demo she had ever seen!  That was my yearly observation, and afterward we seemed to have greater respect for each other.
 
 
best,
Pres

I’m am with @Hulk there is a strong possibility (especially new in the box) the commutator has oxidized over time and with no use this layer is thick. With power off you can spin it by hand both directions say ten or twenty revolutions. This will actually spin  the motor many more revolutions which could help clean off some of the oxidation. Then, power on, 1/2 speed, get the wheel started and see if it will run up to high speed just for a handful of seconds. If it runs smoothly on its own at high speed and does not struggle then letting it spin for a few minutes may get the commutator cleaned off sufficiently and regular use will prevent this from occurring. If the commutator has to be hand cleaned, then something a motor tech is probably better suited for as the Artista parts list does not appear to have removable brushes listed.
 

I've never seen that before. My gut says it's probably a bad potentiometer (speed control).

Hi Llama,
Welcome to the Forum!
I'm curious if the Artista has a brushed motor, and if so, are the commutator and brushes clean and in good condition?
...I like Neil's idea better tho'.

Years ago I was involved in an overstock grouping for school districts and other gov. organizations. I got several useful things from them, but the most useful was a box of band saw blades that were 1/2 to 5/8 wide. I did not have a band saw that they fit, but found that they made excellent metal ribs for wheel thrown pot trimming and other uses. I cut the band saw blade into 4-6" lengths and rounded the corners. I also made some with angles and sharpened with grinder as in open trimming tools.
 
best,
Pres

Favorite needle tool is a small screwdriver that my Dad had ground down to a point.
I like the handle - it's shorter than the typical pointer/needle tool - and larger in diameter. The entire tool is also rather short, which I prefer (except when a long one is needed).
It's also easy to find and doesn't roll far when dropped.
Taking inspiration from some of Hsinchuen Lin's early video clips (afore he began marketing his own line of stainless tools), I've an assortment of trimming and chattering tools made from hack saw blades. I've ground off the teeth, heated and bent the blade, then ground the profile. From there, I touch them up with a file. Some of the tools have been repurposed, as the original profile is long gone via sharpening. I don't mind the few moments it takes to resharpen them*.
My favorite (and only) cut-off wire was just the right length (it had been shortened several times!), then it was too short after the last break.
I'd tried several replacement wires, bah!
Now I'm using the core of a bike derailleur cable, which is holding out great. It's very slim, yet resilient.
Derailleur cables (the type I've been using for some time, by Jagwire) have filaments of metal wound around a core cable; I'm unwinding the outer filaments to reveal the core, boom!
Repurposed! Another use for replaced bike cabling! They're also handy for picture frame hanging wires - be sure to completely remove any grease first tho'.
A frosting spatula is so handy! At first I just used it to lever off batts, however, the small arc at the end is just right for mug lip recurve smoothing.
I'm trimming strips off the (automobile) chamois for lip smoothing.
Less often used, I've: several twist drill bits I use for making holes and dressing the holes' edges; a few small kitchen knives for cutting clay; a razor knife that's especially handy for trimming spouts; a few wooden knives/turning tools; a few wooden spoons for extending the inside hand when the hand won't fit; trimmed brushes for slip, glaze, and other stuff too.
At glazing time, there's a few soup ladles (one is a favorite), turkey baster, ear syringe, inexpensive electronic scale, masking tape**, kitchen whisks (one is fitted with a rod, which chucks up to the drill), blade tools for mixing in that bottom bucket edge ...and more, I'll have to take a look, it's been a long slog with no Studio time since October last!
 
*It's easier to keep them sharp then to re-sharpen when totally blunted.
Side note, dressing off the sharpened edges of frequently used metal ribs also doesn't take long; a square-ish edge can also cut, however, the honed razor thin/sharp by clay edge is so much more dangerous!
**plain half or three quarter inch tape makes a sharp clean straight line.
For curvy, I cut the tape into strips.
The pinstriping tape is nice, however, heh, masking tape is inexpensive, and works just fine, given it is cut with a sharp tool.