Mark C.

I did a demo workshop on about 8 of the wispers-they are quiet and thats all they are -they can be slowed down easy with a medium amount of clay and the splash pans are cheesy and will break over time. The cords are to light duty as well. Thats my take-oh ya they do not have good fast service/parts like Brands made in this country 
a pancake motor is like Naan bread only made on a charcoal fire a low heat-when done its a low torque flavor that is really quiet and small

I did a demo workshop on about 8 of the wispers-they are quiet and thats all they are -they can be slowed down easy with a medium amount of clay and the splash pans are cheesy and will break over time. The cords are to light duty as well. Thats my take-oh ya they do not have good fast service/parts like Brands made in this country 
a pancake motor is like Naan bread only made on a charcoal fire a low heat-when done its a low torque flavor that is really quiet and small

When those bubbles wear thru that means glass (glaze) came out into fluids most likely witha spoon stirring for example.Not a good situtaion for anyone. If the glaze is to thick toss it as its unsafe for use.  In ceramics we all make mistakes and try to learn from them.It takes a whole lifetime of ceramic mistakes and then in the next life you get to make more-its the learning from them that makes us better potters

When those bubbles wear thru that means glass (glaze) came out into fluids most likely witha spoon stirring for example.Not a good situtaion for anyone. If the glaze is to thick toss it as its unsafe for use.  In ceramics we all make mistakes and try to learn from them.It takes a whole lifetime of ceramic mistakes and then in the next life you get to make more-its the learning from them that makes us better potters

When those bubbles wear thru that means glass (glaze) came out into fluids most likely witha spoon stirring for example.Not a good situtaion for anyone. If the glaze is to thick toss it as its unsafe for use.  In ceramics we all make mistakes and try to learn from them.It takes a whole lifetime of ceramic mistakes and then in the next life you get to make more-its the learning from them that makes us better potters

I'm with oldlady coffee in the pinholes is my vote

45 years ago I trimmed every pot bottom As a production potter I still trim most forms with feet (I think a foot adds to the form) and glaze the bottoms if the foot is tall enough.
Nowdays I do not glaze many flat form bottoms like pie plates and chip and dip dishes . I still trim a foot and glaze the bottoms of dinnerware /platters
I use a tool to add a drip line  and undercut to mugs (no trimmers) and sponge holders and spoon rests
Most of my smalls are no trimmers these days-you learn to add the undercut and drop edge to the thrown form when throwing-these include mugs -all sizes and spoonrests and sponge holders. I do trim salt cellars and honey pots
I trim all other medium and large pots. so most of my 30-35 forms get trimmed except for the smalls
All bowls are trimmed as well-no matter the size.Most forms take longer to trim than throw

I was going thru downsizing old Ceramics Monthly's yesterday -the 60s and 70,s issues-kept a few 70s glaze recipes rest hit the recycle bin
I found this ad in the October 1970 issue-My Model C is that wheel assembled it was $265-splash pan was galvanized sheet steel. The thing to note was the flat formica decks and the foot pedal those are the two features that they changed fairly quickly in early 70s.  The other features that changed soon afterwards where 3/4 shafts on all wheels (these where 5/8 inch) and motors that had easy change brushes on the outside of motor. This ad also notes the location in Santa Monica that I bought my wheel from Brent himself-which was 1970.
Brent moved shortly afterwards to Healdsburg Ca.. I met recently a woman who's husband worked there back in the mid 70s. Small world
 

45 years ago I trimmed every pot bottom As a production potter I still trim most forms with feet (I think a foot adds to the form) and glaze the bottoms if the foot is tall enough.
Nowdays I do not glaze many flat form bottoms like pie plates and chip and dip dishes . I still trim a foot and glaze the bottoms of dinnerware /platters
I use a tool to add a drip line  and undercut to mugs (no trimmers) and sponge holders and spoon rests
Most of my smalls are no trimmers these days-you learn to add the undercut and drop edge to the thrown form when throwing-these include mugs -all sizes and spoonrests and sponge holders. I do trim salt cellars and honey pots
I trim all other medium and large pots. so most of my 30-35 forms get trimmed except for the smalls
All bowls are trimmed as well-no matter the size.Most forms take longer to trim than throw

Odd man out here I have a MAC  and just email the images to myself and in that process you  get to choose -small-meduim -large

Does it count if some folks are visting my studio in a few days?

Does it count if some folks are visting my studio in a few days?

I have a high tech delta air handler with small micron filters , but only use it when making glaze. I do have a small squirrel  cage that I use every few years if I forget to heat the shop before going to in winter .It blows heat down in throwing room from ceiling. The gas heater has no fan . The shop has two roofs and is insulated so it cool in summer and with a gas heater warm in winter. If I need to let heat in or out the shop has two door and we leave them open when needed -like loading kilns. I like the open door as it into a kiln covered area so spring and fall its open.
In the winter with heater on and off the layers vary in shop as to the drying levels and needs. I use the heater for the cycle of pots more than my own comfort.When I need them dry its 90 inside and we work in that when its no rush its 70 T short weather is my favorite temp for winter shop-summewr as cool as I can get it. If iot gets any hotter here near the coast I will install a small Mr cool like the two in house already.(they heat and cool)
Closed at night. In warm summers doors are closed to keep it cool. No fan.

I forgot to mention my shop vacuum system -its a house vacuum mounted outside  with a dust deputy (gets the solids into a small drum) and then into a whole house vacuum canister  with a hepa bag then inside is  a 2 inch hose like a shop vac that plugs into a fitting near sink. The dust and noise is all outside. Its a great tool. It ate thru motors until I wired a new style motor which is new and I'm testing. I buy the motors thru Amazon with a warranty so I can replace for low cost.. The new style blows the  fine dust out the sides not thru the motor-we shall see how long the brushes last-as the fines kill them fast. Never had one make it past 6 months.

No never on its side-big no no. Treat it like its super fragile as it is. The bricks get injured easily -cafefull handling it near the elements groves as they break out easy as the bricks are thin there.
Put it on foam sheet or some padded moving blankets and tie it into a trck bed-keep it stable -you can take the lid off and treat it very carefully  with padding.Tie it down 
take the base off and the lid. DO NOT Carry it on its side or travel on side-back seat is better

I have a high tech delta air handler with small micron filters , but only use it when making glaze. I do have a small squirrel  cage that I use every few years if I forget to heat the shop before going to in winter .It blows heat down in throwing room from ceiling. The gas heater has no fan . The shop has two roofs and is insulated so it cool in summer and with a gas heater warm in winter. If I need to let heat in or out the shop has two door and we leave them open when needed -like loading kilns. I like the open door as it into a kiln covered area so spring and fall its open.
In the winter with heater on and off the layers vary in shop as to the drying levels and needs. I use the heater for the cycle of pots more than my own comfort.When I need them dry its 90 inside and we work in that when its no rush its 70 T short weather is my favorite temp for winter shop-summewr as cool as I can get it. If iot gets any hotter here near the coast I will install a small Mr cool like the two in house already.(they heat and cool)
Closed at night. In warm summers doors are closed to keep it cool. No fan.

Thats a manual kiln that uses 24 amp  and needs a  #30 amp breaker. Its not computerized and has a kiln sitter withg safety shut off timer
what are your plansd low fire (cone 06) or cone 6?
its a smaller kiln and new cost about $1700
its an older model
its very clean looking and if there is any shelves and posts that come with that would be good
since its from 1991 I would offer 500$ what are they asking?

Yes what size are the orfices now? natural gas has larger orfices -LPG should have considerable smaller orfice  holes.
I get that its been convered but all 4 burners in one spot is a bit strange-We need to see the inside with door open as well.
You never mentioned anything about a damper-does it have one on top (I'm assuming its a updraft?)
The only downside with the hood so close is it will rust out sooner if it gets super hot and you could always have a stainless one made  like i did as they never rust-make sure to  cover your chimney cap when not in use for rain.
In terms of to small  a hood that whole shed is just for this small kiln and your shed has a wall of windows  on one side and one opens so ventaliation is looking great to me as long as you do not sit in there all closed up firing
So the issues can be
orfice size
burners to small-burner placement (all in one spot)
The stacking load of wares and bag walls
draft -layout inside to let gas flow thru load
damper issue-size of exit flue
explain in detail these issues  as best you can to help us
Photos inside are a must

Send a message to JohnnyK here as he has one in middle Cal. Look him up eralier on this thread and send him a personal message.

Pres pull the bottom plate off that foot pedal and use a hair dryer on low on the potentiometer then let it sit 
I have 5-6 Brent wheels and one from the 70s needed a new curcuit board last year and a new power switch this year-that wheel is a model C and has run the longest here.

Pres pull the bottom plate off that foot pedal and use a hair dryer on low on the potentiometer then let it sit 
I have 5-6 Brent wheels and one from the 70s needed a new curcuit board last year and a new power switch this year-that wheel is a model C and has run the longest here.

Pres in the long run its just a short trip really-You got to go-take a bus or train or maybe a plane but its the heart of Ceramics on that Island.

Pres in the long run its just a short trip really-You got to go-take a bus or train or maybe a plane but its the heart of Ceramics on that Island.

I have a supplier about 10 minutes away. that said there was no supplier within a 8 hour drive most of my 50 year career . So I had to be my own supplier and thats almost still true today. I do buy a few items locally when I'm in need between my usual truck orders.Its a small shop with no equipment for sale usually

I use the 20SS all the time-and the hopper size is the smallest I feel one wants. As you noted you can unbolt the sections and clean the screw as its exposed 360 degrees at that point
I feel this machine is the perfect size for most applications-I bought as 1 year old model used lightly for 4 k with stand
Keep in mind they are really heavy so the rolling stand is a must have unless you want to never move it (check the machine weights to see what I'm talking about)
Forget the 7SS for all my resaons  I posted in above post.
I also think the 9SS is also a bit on the small side with only outputing 13#s of clay so outpouuting 150#s an hour would be a tough  killer job.
My friend has this tiny machine and he felt burned about it. The local clay supplier recommended this size to him and he went with that suggestion.He had a falling out with them and this one one of the resasons. The 13# output is pretty small then you repeat the feeding cycle all over
I think a few on this board own the 9SS so maybe they can chine in about it?