Mark C.

Welcome to the forum
Ream them out with a needle tool after the glaze dries. Many glazes are different-shiny matt etc.I just use a needle tool and clean them. You will not notice tham once fired.
For me the the hole had to be 1/4 or larger not to clean them out. To end up with a 1/8 inch hole you will need to ream out the glaze-you can also use a small hand held drill bit

Are you stuffing it full to begin with. Meaning mix it then add-mix a minute add more. Mix add ,more until the lid will barely close as its so full. Then mix ansd then pug.
When it stops extruding the mixer chamber is pretty empty but the barrel has a bit left
New users seem to have issues with this-my guess is they are under filling it. You cannot fill it in one go round or even two.It works best stuffed full and not to wet.You know its full when some comes out the backside overflow tchamber hen you have it full.
Now that vpm9ss is a pretty small batch (I have written on this a few times) so the output is about 2/3 the input meaning in the small machines it a pretty small output
Meaning on my vpm 20ss is max 45#s  so I get about 35#ish  out of it  as the rest is in the barrel
In my vpm 30 the max is 85#s so the output is much more (thety do not make this ione in ss yet)
heres so info
https://peterpugger.com/videos/

Welcome to the forum
Ream them out with a needle tool after the glaze dries. Many glazes are different-shiny matt etc.I just use a needle tool and clean them. You will not notice tham once fired.
For me the the hole had to be 1/4 or larger not to clean them out. To end up with a 1/8 inch hole you will need to ream out the glaze-you can also use a small hand held drill bit

Canvas catches clay dust badly-the smooth cleanable surface is better for table tops

Canvas catches clay dust badly-the smooth cleanable surface is better for table tops

Canvas catches clay dust badly-the smooth cleanable surface is better for table tops

I just read in Forbes Magazine that Lithium prices for now are headed down. That will trickle down to us potters over time. A bright spot in rising prices

I have greenware tyransported every two weeks. to my studio for 20 years. I have also done it alot myself.
The trick is to flip the pot if needed so the heavest side is down.Put on ware boards  or bats whatever size  you have, squares are more efficiient space wise
The professional tip is covering it with towels. I use beach or wash towels. That steadies it and keeps it from moving. . This will make all the differeance 
gently cover and gently remove towels

Well  many here  may not have this  and do not need it  but I do and have for many decades. Since I did many shows over time that required it. Over time this one time cheap poilicy (300$) has really gone up at the same time my exposure has really gone down (only 3 shows this year -two next year). Now for the 1st time I only need it for one event at a shopping center at xmas(and I need to name them on the policy ) The shows I  now do have thier own coverage. Of cource its  more than doubled in price. It was a two million poilicy with a 1k deductible . I have my agent cutting  that  back to 500K  liablitiy and 3k deductible to get to the minimum of 500$ per year. This also covers my studio for 45K for fire insurance (homepolicy does not cover stutio) and 12 k for equipment .
State Farm is my carrier as well
I dislike insurance . This is an understatement

I have greenware tyransported every two weeks. to my studio for 20 years. I have also done it alot myself.
The trick is to flip the pot if needed so the heavest side is down.Put on ware boards  or bats whatever size  you have, squares are more efficiient space wise
The professional tip is covering it with towels. I use beach or wash towels. That steadies it and keeps it from moving. . This will make all the differeance 
gently cover and gently remove towels

I have greenware tyransported every two weeks. to my studio for 20 years. I have also done it alot myself.
The trick is to flip the pot if needed so the heavest side is down.Put on ware boards  or bats whatever size  you have, squares are more efficiient space wise
The professional tip is covering it with towels. I use beach or wash towels. That steadies it and keeps it from moving. . This will make all the differeance 
gently cover and gently remove towels

I have greenware tyransported every two weeks. to my studio for 20 years. I have also done it alot myself.
The trick is to flip the pot if needed so the heavest side is down.Put on ware boards  or bats whatever size  you have, squares are more efficiient space wise
The professional tip is covering it with towels. I use beach or wash towels. That steadies it and keeps it from moving. . This will make all the differeance 
gently cover and gently remove towels

Yes  Bill describes it well ,thats how to tighten it down-this is an early 70s model with original motor-its missing the cord strain relief  grip coming out of motor as well. Be carful never to pull on this motor wire. If that motopr ever acts up take it to an old school electric motor shop and tell them its a dc motor-they can do newew bearing and or brushes as well. This motor has zero customer service options yourself. I wore mine out after about 20 years of heavy production work. All the early brent moters where these blue ones. You never see these much anymore. Keep it dry as well.
You could add a back pressure spring as well as in Bills diagram and a wing nut on the outer nut . Thats a modern Brent setup.
Another note is most likely both pullys and motor and wheelhead shaft may be 5/8 inch diameter as they did this setup for the early years changing out to all 3/4 for it all in mid 70s meaning if you ever get a new wheel head or motor and the shafts are 3/4 (all the Brent wheelhaeds are 3/4 for the past 40 years )those other pulleys need to be changed out as well. I have had to do this once as well-no fun so its just a heads up-you can measure that motor or wheel head shaft now and you will know. My guess is 5/8 by the look of all else. No clear shot of the control box side and rear as that also dates it well to for me.
I'm with bill tighten the motor plate-but 1st loosen the atachment on the legs so it can move as a hinge. Tight motor plate a bit then retighten hinge bolts and try it . Small  adjustments are best
model Cs where all 12 inch heads unless you bought the larger 14inch as a upgrade back then. I bought my model C 1/2 hp in 69 from Brent in Santa Monica  before he moved to Healdsburg.

Sand blasting is a great idea-then glaze  again and fire to cone  and then another decal fire. That if the second glaze is sticking and flawless and we all know thats a tough one on refires.
The thing is this all sounds good but will the final outcome look the same or will it somehow look less than perfect after so much torture.
Since we do not know what clay or form or much of anything about the work its all a guess.,
In my world making new work is the most productive approach in terms of a professinal outcome, It always has been for good reason.
All my tips and others to cure the fault are all to save work we know nothing about and that will mean the final outcome as well
I do know new work will be the best outcome
If we knew more about why the decals failed for example then maybe we could help with the new ones? What were the colorants for example, just so many unknowns.
New work new mistakes they say

Not sure what you mean about buffing-like car polish??? or rubbing compound? If you want the colorant gone 100% I would grind it off and start again
This also means firing them with a glaze 1st again as decals need a shiny glaze surface to work-so that two more fires. I also would start making new ones
whey did the 1st batch fail??????????-maybe more info would help us determine the issue
Can you explain the process-like bisque fired the pieces and then glazed them with shiny glaze and fire then applied the decals and they where lumpy but I fired them anyway -I'm using this as an example . It hard to give a fix not knowing the details-the more detail the better the fix can be.
 

Sand blasting is a great idea-then glaze  again and fire to cone  and then another decal fire. That if the second glaze is sticking and flawless and we all know thats a tough one on refires.
The thing is this all sounds good but will the final outcome look the same or will it somehow look less than perfect after so much torture.
Since we do not know what clay or form or much of anything about the work its all a guess.,
In my world making new work is the most productive approach in terms of a professinal outcome, It always has been for good reason.
All my tips and others to cure the fault are all to save work we know nothing about and that will mean the final outcome as well
I do know new work will be the best outcome
If we knew more about why the decals failed for example then maybe we could help with the new ones? What were the colorants for example, just so many unknowns.
New work new mistakes they say

Brent wheel heads  and shafts cannot come apart without harm-they are not made to once they mated together . The head and shaft have a hole drilled in at a slant and a pin is inserted and is flush to head at an angle. No wheel I have ever seen has this. The hole does not go thru. You conceivably could dill this out-If you know the angle and find another head (Brent only sells them as one-not any separate heads.) and dill that angle or a new one and put on that new head and hope =its true. That also may me worse than the wobble you now have.
One note I have never seen this connection come loose or move in any way-its solid. I know of a model C thrown out of a SF 3 story house windo the head got bent but that connection stayed put. That fiasco  was told you me a few years ago on how thought they are. New head /shaft and the wheel was fine. Try thrwing most wheels 3 stories-its a bad testing idea by the way.
Your wobble as noted by Rockhopper is it the head up and down or something else?
I have to Brent wheel heads I wore out  from prodution use or changed to larger head (I do not like the smaller 12 inch heads) and I use them as banding wheels so I can see  easily how they are made. They sit on a 6x8 piece of wood with a  3/4 inch hole drilled in it.
I only own 5 Brents now but all the wheel heads are made the same with that head to shaft connection

Brent used fixed shaft to bearing units -when the bearings wear out the whole unit needs to be replaced . It's a bolt on unit and spendy as well-you need a wheel puller to pull the bottom sprocket  off usually as you cannot beat on it at all.  Soak the sprocket /shaft connection with penatrationg oil for afew days before trying to seprtate-there is  bolt that screws againist the flat part of shaft underneath.-the sprocket need to go straight down. Hence the wheel puller-you may be able to rent a small one at auto parts store. I have a chaep harbor frieght set-they work fine.  As a full time production potter it takes about 25-30 years to wear  a wheel head out. . Any chance it got hit with something or rough handled? You could also a last dicth effort thump it true again but you would need to be able to figure where its low and high as it spins. Tell us more details.
I own two of these wheels

Not sure what you mean about buffing-like car polish??? or rubbing compound? If you want the colorant gone 100% I would grind it off and start again
This also means firing them with a glaze 1st again as decals need a shiny glaze surface to work-so that two more fires. I also would start making new ones
whey did the 1st batch fail??????????-maybe more info would help us determine the issue
Can you explain the process-like bisque fired the pieces and then glazed them with shiny glaze and fire then applied the decals and they where lumpy but I fired them anyway -I'm using this as an example . It hard to give a fix not knowing the details-the more detail the better the fix can be.
 

Well you knew it was coming.Everything is going up.  May 1st clay is going up  a small amount and some clays are going away with Laguna as well-I think Frost may be one. Just a FYI
Wondering about spodumene/lithium going up its the lithium -like in a Tesla battery. Rare Earth stuff comes and goes.Some day maybe iron for batteries as it cheap now but may not forever

Well you knew it was coming.Everything is going up.  May 1st clay is going up  a small amount and some clays are going away with Laguna as well-I think Frost may be one. Just a FYI
Wondering about spodumene/lithium going up its the lithium -like in a Tesla battery. Rare Earth stuff comes and goes.Some day maybe iron for batteries as it cheap now but may not forever

I consider myself as a Brent guy since 1969 when I bought mine in Socal
I am not familiar with a CK but do know they existed from this forum. That blue motor tells me it from the very early days of Brent. I cannot tell by your photos if the belt is two single belts (which means its a very early model) or say a 4 grove belt- early 70s later model. Your belt is slipping so tighten the motor via the bracket that holds it. A photo of the top of the wheel (deck) and the undere head where there is flange for splash pan or not will help with its age as well for me. I'll send you a PM so you can talk to me about your questions
 
well gone dark on me? Horse to water deal maybe
Mark

I consider myself as a Brent guy since 1969 when I bought mine in Socal
I am not familiar with a CK but do know they existed from this forum. That blue motor tells me it from the very early days of Brent. I cannot tell by your photos if the belt is two single belts (which means its a very early model) or say a 4 grove belt- early 70s later model. Your belt is slipping so tighten the motor via the bracket that holds it. A photo of the top of the wheel (deck) and the undere head where there is flange for splash pan or not will help with its age as well for me. I'll send you a PM so you can talk to me about your questions
 
well gone dark on me? Horse to water deal maybe
Mark

(paid more attention to closing up damper for the cool down, and I fired on a fairly thick bed of silica. )
I think this really made the differeance

(paid more attention to closing up damper for the cool down, and I fired on a fairly thick bed of silica. )
I think this really made the differeance