Mark C.

Welcome to the forum Ream them out with a needle tool after the glaze dries. Many glazes are different-shiny matt etc.I just use a needle tool and clean them. You will not notice tham once fired. For me the the hole had to be 1/4 or larger not to clean them out. To end up with a 1/8 inch hole you will need to ream out the glaze-you can also use a small hand held drill bit

Yes its a belt slippage issue and just needs tighting as Bill points out here is how https://www.amaco.com/equipment_how_tos

Canvas catches clay dust badly-the smooth cleanable surface is better for table tops

(Just a reminder it only going to cone with NEW elements and new wiring-its really a bisque kiln or low fire) ,this was mentioned back on this thread in 2019 I owned one of these for 30 years-bisque kiln .Cone 6 is Max temp and that really overrating it as they did back in the 70s when this was made Bisque glazes pots rarely ever blow up.Was that greenware? Black cones suggests smoke? Smoke suggest organics in fire? all switches on low?

I just read in Forbes Magazine that Lithium prices for now are headed down. That will trickle down to us potters over time. A bright spot in rising prices

I have greenware tyransported every two weeks. to my studio for 20 years. I have also done it alot myself. The trick is to flip the pot if needed so the heavest side is down.Put on ware boards or bats whatever size you have, squares are more efficiient space wise The professional tip is covering it with towels. I use beach or wash towels. That steadies it and keeps it from moving. . This will make all the differeance gently cover and gently remove towels

Yes Bill describes it well ,thats how to tighten it down-this is an early 70s model with original motor-its missing the cord strain relief grip coming out of motor as well. Be carful never to pull on this motor wire. If that motopr ever acts up take it to an old school electric motor shop and tell them its a dc motor-they can do newew bearing and or brushes as well. This motor has zero customer service options yourself. I wore mine out after about 20 years of heavy production work. All the early brent moters where these blue ones. You never see these much anymore. Keep it dry as well. You could add a back pressure spring as well as in Bills diagram and a wing nut on the outer nut . Thats a modern Brent setup. Another note is most likely both pullys and motor and wheelhead shaft may be 5/8 inch diameter as they did this setup for the early years changing out to all 3/4 for it all in mid 70s meaning if you ever get a new wheel head or motor and the shafts are 3/4 (all the Brent wheelhaeds are 3/4 for the past 40 years )those other pulleys need to be changed out as well. I have had to do this once as well-no fun so its just a heads up-you can measure that motor or wheel head shaft now and you will know. My guess is 5/8 by the look of all else. No clear shot of the control box side and rear as that also dates it well to for me. I'm with bill tighten the motor plate-but 1st loosen the atachment on the legs so it can move as a hinge. Tight motor plate a bit then retighten hinge bolts and try it . Small adjustments are best model Cs where all 12 inch heads unless you bought the larger 14inch as a upgrade back then. I bought my model C 1/2 hp in 69 from Brent in Santa Monica before he moved to Healdsburg.

Before buying make sure its not awet runied deck-I have posteda few threads on Model A deck sealing as its a cheap Flakeboard top. Water can get under at the bolt holes and haed bolts as well as the edges under the formica top. If that movement is spongy deck let me know as I have a cure or two. The wheel head is a standard 12inch which they seem to not have listed anymore-meaning call and talk to they-in fact they only have two 14 inch and they do not explain the differences so that also a call and talk deal as well. The motor is 1/3 hp still on the site. the belt is super short and they still sell it as a model A belt but you may have to call about this as well.

Sand blasting is a great idea-then glaze again and fire to cone and then another decal fire. That if the second glaze is sticking and flawless and we all know thats a tough one on refires. The thing is this all sounds good but will the final outcome look the same or will it somehow look less than perfect after so much torture. Since we do not know what clay or form or much of anything about the work its all a guess., In my world making new work is the most productive approach in terms of a professinal outcome, It always has been for good reason. All my tips and others to cure the fault are all to save work we know nothing about and that will mean the final outcome as well I do know new work will be the best outcome If we knew more about why the decals failed for example then maybe we could help with the new ones? What were the colorants for example, just so many unknowns. New work new mistakes they say

Brent wheel heads and shafts cannot come apart without harm-they are not made to once they mated together . The head and shaft have a hole drilled in at a slant and a pin is inserted and is flush to head at an angle. No wheel I have ever seen has this. The hole does not go thru. You conceivably could dill this out-If you know the angle and find another head (Brent only sells them as one-not any separate heads.) and dill that angle or a new one and put on that new head and hope =its true. That also may me worse than the wobble you now have. One note I have never seen this connection come loose or move in any way-its solid. I know of a model C thrown out of a SF 3 story house windo the head got bent but that connection stayed put. That fiasco was told you me a few years ago on how thought they are. New head /shaft and the wheel was fine. Try thrwing most wheels 3 stories-its a bad testing idea by the way. Your wobble as noted by Rockhopper is it the head up and down or something else? I have to Brent wheel heads I wore out from prodution use or changed to larger head (I do not like the smaller 12 inch heads) and I use them as banding wheels so I can see easily how they are made. They sit on a 6x8 piece of wood with a 3/4 inch hole drilled in it. I only own 5 Brents now but all the wheel heads are made the same with that head to shaft connection

Brent used fixed shaft to bearing units -when the bearings wear out the whole unit needs to be replaced . It's a bolt on unit and spendy as well-you need a wheel puller to pull the bottom sprocket off usually as you cannot beat on it at all. Soak the sprocket /shaft connection with penatrationg oil for afew days before trying to seprtate-there is bolt that screws againist the flat part of shaft underneath.-the sprocket need to go straight down. Hence the wheel puller-you may be able to rent a small one at auto parts store. I have a chaep harbor frieght set-they work fine. As a full time production potter it takes about 25-30 years to wear a wheel head out. . Any chance it got hit with something or rough handled? You could also a last dicth effort thump it true again but you would need to be able to figure where its low and high as it spins. Tell us more details. I own two of these wheels

Not sure what you mean about buffing-like car polish??? or rubbing compound? If you want the colorant gone 100% I would grind it off and start again This also means firing them with a glaze 1st again as decals need a shiny glaze surface to work-so that two more fires. I also would start making new ones whey did the 1st batch fail??????????-maybe more info would help us determine the issue Can you explain the process-like bisque fired the pieces and then glazed them with shiny glaze and fire then applied the decals and they where lumpy but I fired them anyway -I'm using this as an example . It hard to give a fix not knowing the details-the more detail the better the fix can be.

Yes they will burn off. Depending on what colorans are in them , They may be clean depending on colorants used in the making . The decal material will be gone -its the colorants that may be hand on. Just high fire tghem and see whats left.

Well you knew it was coming.Everything is going up. May 1st clay is going up a small amount and some clays are going away with Laguna as well-I think Frost may be one. Just a FYI Wondering about spodumene/lithium going up its the lithium -like in a Tesla battery. Rare Earth stuff comes and goes.Some day maybe iron for batteries as it cheap now but may not forever

I consider myself as a Brent guy since 1969 when I bought mine in Socal I am not familiar with a CK but do know they existed from this forum. That blue motor tells me it from the very early days of Brent. I cannot tell by your photos if the belt is two single belts (which means its a very early model) or say a 4 grove belt- early 70s later model. Your belt is slipping so tighten the motor via the bracket that holds it. A photo of the top of the wheel (deck) and the undere head where there is flange for splash pan or not will help with its age as well for me. I'll send you a PM so you can talk to me about your questions well gone dark on me? Horse to water deal maybe Mark

I think you get what you pay for and speedballs are just cheap wheel made for very small amouts of clay Irenepots sums it up well above The resale on a Brent or a Thomas/Skutt will be high but those are made well (for a lifetime)

(paid more attention to closing up damper for the cool down, and I fired on a fairly thick bed of silica. ) I think this really made the differeance

Teapots-I throw a bunch of spouts-the bodies with each lid-then cut an assemble the spouts I think work best.So that a mix Honey pots are all 10c seats and 10 c lids-never one offs. I make extra lids and they fit any honey/jam/garlic keeper potsiall the same size galleries-all lids off the hump Butter dish same deal always 17 c lids a bit larger 17.2 same with french butterdishes all the same Now with meduim large bowls all are one offs although they are weighed so they sometime do not vary much all salt glazed pots are one offs

Laguna is short staffed as are most places due to covid and they have yet to recover. Also there has been a turnover in the top positions as older folks retired out. Clay output has been tough and many bodies have just been in short supply -all clay makers at laest on west coast is this way now.In all my Laguna years (I swicthed to them in the middle 80s's from westwood clay bodies) its never been this bad. They grew and bought out westwood and movds to that facility and then bought out the clay plant in Ohio (not sure what that name was Neil may know) then Axner in Florida-Stewarts in LA and Thoirley shevel manufacture as well. They are the gorilla in the clay field . I knew the old owner and his father (who retired near me before passing) I bought some of his stuff long ago as well. When I switched porcealin bodies in the 80s I went down to meet them(the owners) and see the plant as it was a big deal for me to switch -12 hour drive each way. That was long ago but I have a long history with Laguna as well as being a distribiutor in more modern times. For many many decades I would order at least 12 tons to get the best price breaks(the 12 ton break was the best price) before becoming a distributor . Part of my overall success is keeping costs low as possiable on materials.. Today I noticed I'm down to 1 ton of clay and have not been this low in over 20 years. I have a 8 pallet order in now and they are making the extra soft clay but as noted eralier its a slower process these days. Trucking is now a huge issue for me as well. We live in the boonies and trucking has always been an issue. Now its worse.

Better stock up now as its going to go away is my thought

welcome Santino 2020 to the forum I own two of these wheels ,one is brand new ina box still (new old stock) As You can read in my earlier post sealing the 4 bolts and the flakeboard edge is the most import part . I cannot say this enough . In terms of the splash pan the modern ones do fit. I do not throw on my wheel as its a dedicated trim wheel for me so its always dry. I detailed how to waterproof the deck in that post linked above. In terms of a modern Brent splash pan for this wheel -all models A's as far as I know have that flange on the wheel head bearing that hold all Brent splash pans down. The head is 12 inch so the pan fits a 14 inch head so the splash pan seems large buts that fine in terms of use. If your wheel deck is toast already (ruined from wet use and teh flakeboard is blown apart ) you can replace the whole deck with plastic cutting board mater thats 3/4 to 1 inch thick for a truly waterproof deck as well. I just looked at my older one and it has that flange-your does to is my guess. Only brent splash pans will snap down under this bracket .If its an older splach pan they tend to be looser than the newer style If you have more questions plaese ask Those are dandy wheels I use a small raised platform as they are so tiny and low and only weigh 49#s. Brent/Amaco still sells all the parts mostly for them as well. They are great demo wheels to travel with as well . I did a demo at one of my outlets on this wheels (yes with water throwing and a slash pan). They are rare and if you post a few photos of your maybe that well help us as well.

Soon look for new substitutes is my guess.

I started my pottery life with a Brent C. That was 50 years ago. Now I have 5 Brents-CXC, 2 model A's and a model B and that C Tomas Stuart (now skutts) also makes quality wheels Brents hold the resale value as well

I think that glaze looks to be a matt or satin Matt which can put lots of stress on the pot as well unless it has glaze on bottom. Does this happen with shiny glazes or just your matt glazes? I cannot see any need to fire down with these glazes or pots. Try closing the damper as soon as the cone gets to where you like and CLOSE the Damper all the way to cool. 99.99% of all potters do this .

Skutt makes the exact elements you need just call them and tell them all the details as strange as they are-if they send the wrong ones it's on them and they will make it right.