neilestrick

I also think it's a thickness issue. Make them half as thick, and hollow out the legs.

A Genesis Mini is $329, and IMO the ease of use and features are worth every dime- cone fire modes, stored programs, diagnostic tools, wifi connectivity and software updates, etc.
I would ditch the switches completely and wire the elements directly to the Sitter. The switches are just another part to fail and serve no purpose in the system. I would also hard wire the interbox receptacle, another weak point.
Mechanical relays are inexpensive and an easy safety addition to the system.

You can't just put digital control parts into that box. It doesn't have any sort of insulating baffle and isn't deep enough to add one. The easiest way to add digital controls is to use an external wall mounted box that the kiln plugs into. Being wall mounted, it will stay cool and last longer. Wire it up with the proper 4 wire configuration going to an outlet on the box, and plug the kiln into it. Set all the manual kiln controls to high and let the controller cycle the power. I also recommend using an existing controller made for kilns, such as the Bartlett Genesis. It's got far more kiln-specific programming than you'll be able to do yourself with a general purpose controller. You want to run each hot leg through an SSR and both hot and neutral through a mechanical relay. The mechanical relay gets wired to the safety output on the controller- it comes on and the beginning of the firing and turns off at the end. The SSR handles the cycling. You'll also need a fuse for each leg. Either get good heat sinks for the SSRs, or put a computer cabinet fan in the box. I like the fan because it generally does a better job around the heat of the kiln and it'a a lot cheaper and easier to install.

I found a datasheet for the switch here: http://www.hyungho.co.kr/?z=bbs.f_rotary&zz=view&bseq=135&cseq=0&pn=1&stype=&sstr=&soption=&cate=127
 
 
SRH.pdf

The plaster itself should dry the surface of the clay enough that it will release. If it's not releasing quickly enough, then dust some corn starch on the mold or the clay before pressing it. I would not use any sort of liquid on the plaster, as it will just soak in and ruin the porosity of the plaster.

The plaster itself should dry the surface of the clay enough that it will release. If it's not releasing quickly enough, then dust some corn starch on the mold or the clay before pressing it. I would not use any sort of liquid on the plaster, as it will just soak in and ruin the porosity of the plaster.

The Darvan is not necessary, just thin them out with water.
Speedball black will definitely crawl if too thick.
How are you applying the underglaze with the brush? Just brushing it on like painting a wall, or applying it while it spins on the wheel? It's really easy to get it on too thick at the lip if you're not careful, as the brush will wrap around the lip and kind of scrape extra underglaze off the brush.

Chances are the underglaze is too thick.
- What color underglaze is it happening to?
- When are you applying the underglaze? Leather hard, bone dry, bisque?
- How many coats, and are you thinning out the underglaze before applying?
- How are you applying the glaze?

The plaster itself should dry the surface of the clay enough that it will release. If it's not releasing quickly enough, then dust some corn starch on the mold or the clay before pressing it. I would not use any sort of liquid on the plaster, as it will just soak in and ruin the porosity of the plaster.

Chances are the underglaze is too thick.
- What color underglaze is it happening to?
- When are you applying the underglaze? Leather hard, bone dry, bisque?
- How many coats, and are you thinning out the underglaze before applying?
- How are you applying the glaze?

A marker will just gum up with the clay, so something that brushes on would work best, like food coloring or india ink.

A marker will just gum up with the clay, so something that brushes on would work best, like food coloring or india ink.

kelsey, congratulations on getting your first kiln.   it is the same kind i started with in 1972 or 3.   it was a good learning experience and i remember the electrician who installed it did not know anything about kilns.   we called in an expert and i was a glad to have him.  my house was built in 1940 and did not have enough amps for anything modern.  forget the stuff we use today!
if the person you are using is not experienced in kiln work and does not even know that other kinds of "fat" cords are not correct for a kiln, ask your local supplier for some names .    if you are lucky enough to have a local supplier.
it really matters that someone knows how to do it correctly.    you do not want to provide the first negative experience that makes him/her learn what not to do.
north carolina is full of potters.   look up someone and ask for a reference.  just throw a rock in any direction and it will probably hit a potter.

A marker will just gum up with the clay, so something that brushes on would work best, like food coloring or india ink.

The plaster itself should dry the surface of the clay enough that it will release. If it's not releasing quickly enough, then dust some corn starch on the mold or the clay before pressing it. I would not use any sort of liquid on the plaster, as it will just soak in and ruin the porosity of the plaster.

You have several things running in different directions here, so it can be confusing. This kiln needs a 4-wire circuit. Easy enough, Sparkie checks the old circuit and maybe it is an old 4-wire job. Maybe it is also sufficient gauge to support 35 or 40 amps as required by the 125% rule. Maybe there is already a 40 amp breaker on it. If so, the circuit is good to go for this kiln. Your remaining problem is the cord on the kiln needs to be replaced. Unlike extension cords and household appliance cords, kiln power cords are made with high temperature type SEO cable to accommodate the heat buildup of long-duration full amperage current when the kiln is running on high for several hours to finish the firing. The stove cord you linked to is not quite up to that spec, but since it is rated for twice the amperage your kiln will pull, it probably will do ok.
On the other hand, if the existing circuit in the wall is not sufficient, Sparkie has some work to do, and there are some choices to be made. The replacement circuit only needs a 40 amp breaker and 8 ga. 4-wire cable for this kiln. But you said you might step up to a bigger kiln in the future, so future-proof the circuit now. The biggest plug-in kilns (which are actually quite common among hobby potters) draw 48 amps and require a 60 amp breaker with 6 ga. wire (though possibly 4 ga. if the run back to the panel is really long). So, ask Sparkie to install the 6 ga. cable and put a 40 amp breaker in the panel. The cable will be a bit more expensive and seemingly overkill for now, but you will only be paying for the labor once. When you upgrade in the future, all that will be needed is a new breaker and receptacle, the expensive part of pulling the cable will already be done.

So you've got a cone 10 ceramic rod, and over the rod is a series of 17 gauge loops that hold the ornaments? So the ceramic rod is what you're worried about sagging correct? The wires will probably be fine. The only answer we can give regarding the rod is 'maybe'. It all depends on how thick the rod is, how long the span is, how much weight it's carrying, etc. There's no way to know until you try it.  Worst can scenario, the rod bends so much that it falls off its supports and you end up with a pile of stuff on the kiln shelf. Best case it works great. 

So you've got a cone 10 ceramic rod, and over the rod is a series of 17 gauge loops that hold the ornaments? So the ceramic rod is what you're worried about sagging correct? The wires will probably be fine. The only answer we can give regarding the rod is 'maybe'. It all depends on how thick the rod is, how long the span is, how much weight it's carrying, etc. There's no way to know until you try it.  Worst can scenario, the rod bends so much that it falls off its supports and you end up with a pile of stuff on the kiln shelf. Best case it works great. 

I don't think that 'work' in itself is the issue. Rather, it's the type of work. Some people can work for hours and hours with spreadsheets on a computer and have no problem with it. Some folks install shingles all day or frame houses. Some teach kids. I can work hard all day in the studio but I would hate other jobs. It's a matter of finding the work that you enjoy, and if you're not totally into clay then it's not going to be work you want to do all day.

Terrible inspector, overloading the breaker and ignoring the manufacturer's instructions. Plus sometimes 48 amp kilns will trip a 50 amp breaker, especially if your voltage is running a little high, which is not at all uncommon. Pass inspection, swap the breaker, and fire it up!

Did you use the term 'ceramic kiln'? Did you explain what it is? That term may not mean anything to them. I'm betting that if you said 'pottery kiln' they would get it, because most people have had some sort of experience with pottery during their childhood or college years. You might just have to explain it to them, and maybe give them some links to the kiln manufacturer's website. Which insurance company? The town will want to inspect it, and if they don't know anything about it they will generally defer to the manufacturer's recommendations for installation.

There are a couple different types of silica board- high density and low density. I've used the low density stuff, and it is incredibly soft and not durable. I have not used the high density, but I imagine for it to be as durable as IFB it would not be much better of an insulator.

If the pieces are very small then they probably won't be an issue. Larger pieces can cause pop-outs after the piece is fired, even weeks after the firing. If you're concerned about your plaster bat, then I'd remake it or simply put a sheet over it before putting the clay on it. A good bat shouldn't have any bits coming off. Make sure you use the proper ratio of water to plaster when making it so it sets properly. If using #1 pottery plaster (recommended), use 7 parts water to 10 parts plaster by weight.

Did you use the term 'ceramic kiln'? Did you explain what it is? That term may not mean anything to them. I'm betting that if you said 'pottery kiln' they would get it, because most people have had some sort of experience with pottery during their childhood or college years. You might just have to explain it to them, and maybe give them some links to the kiln manufacturer's website. Which insurance company? The town will want to inspect it, and if they don't know anything about it they will generally defer to the manufacturer's recommendations for installation.

Make sure you install wires that are suitable for 60 amp.  
If you want to argue with the inspector, and assuming you are in the US, here is the applicable section from the National Electrical code.

210.19(A)(1) General. Branch-circuit conductors shall have an ampacity not less than the maximum load to be served. Conductors shall be sized to carry not less than the larger of 210.19(A)(1)(a) or (b).
(a) Where a branch circuit supplies continuous loads or any combination of continuous and noncontinuous loads, the minimum branch-circuit conductor size shall have an allowable ampacity not less than the noncontinuous load plus 25 percent of the continuous load.