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Shane

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  1. Hi Erika, In the book Contempory Porcelain there's an artist called Ole Lislerud who was making large panels (100x80cm @ 3mm thin) by pouring porcelain slip down sloped plasterboard with wooden battens acting as retaining walls. There's quite a bit of information in there about his methods but it's very advanced ceramics and would probably involve years of tests to replicate. Maybe paperclay would make it easier, or more difficult, who knows.
  2. I've always liked Duncan EZ012 Cobalt Jet Black for my black and white stuff. 1 coat, just use a liner brush or any brush you want really. This piece is earthenware but according to my tests the colour holds up to at least cone 10.
  3. Howdy All, I'm looking to do some stamping on cast porcelain while it's still in the mold. I'd like to brush on a guide line to make that process easier and was wondering if anyone has any tips on the best way to go about that. I'll probably start some tests with a dark food colouring, unless anyone has a better suggestion? Thanks, Shane
  4. Hi Ben, I've poured a lot of large molds with bad leaks and I've never had to do more than the following, 1. Use 1 (or more if required) proper clamping mold straps to make sure the mold doesn't move or shift at all when casting it. 2. Use the right consistency of clay to plug up the seams on the outside, fresh soft block clay is about right. This comes with experience but you can feel it going into the seam when done correctly. I rarely do this but if there's a large gap or hole on the inside of the mold that you can reach then push some clay in that as well, obviously use the same clay as you're casting with. 3. Give it 5 or 10 minutes to stiffen a little before casting the mold (depending upon environmental conditions). If you can see cracks it's far too dry. 4. Sometimes the seam will still spring a leak when cast but usually (after finishing the pour to avoid lines) just running your finger along the seam again will reseal it. If not jam some more clay in the leak. 5. If all the above doesn't work the mold is probably too far gone and should be disposed of. Hope that helps.
  5. I was very happy when I got Sueharu Fukami's book and there was a series of photos demonstrating his creative techniques. Finally I had some proof those works really were created by a human.
  6. Hi Callie, I'm not 100% sure about the excessive heat exposure but there's reasons I doubt that's the problem. The issue only occurs on one half of a two piece mold on a few places on that same half. Seems likely that the whole mold (or whole half) would be damaged if it was exposed to the temps required to re-calcine plaster. Bare in mind also that the worst effected mold appeared almost new and had obviously only been poured a few times and had no visible marks or stains that differentiated the effected sections from those unaffected. Howdy Jeff, Yes I did wonder if time may be a factor so I'll keep an eye on the lemonaded mold for a while and see what happens. It will have to be quite a transformation however to replicate the effect I was looking for. I'll let you know if the miraculous occurs.
  7. For those who'd like to know I tried lemonade which is apparently more acidic than coke and coffee, no effect. I think I've got a likely explanation. The mold maker probably just threw some badly quick mixed plaster in at the end of the pour when they came up a little short. They pour many at once I imagine so surely there would be occasional miscalculations and the care factor for that last mold on a Friday afternoon may be approaching zero. Anyhow two molds out of thousands is pretty good odds I suppose, I just sealed the (outside only) affected sections of the mold with a glue and they seem to hold up okay. If in years to come I see acid etched plaster cast pieces floating around out there I'll know where they got the idea : )
  8. Thanks Jeff, You may be right about the acidic liquid, who knows what the molds went through before they found their way to me. Out of curiosity I think I'll find a mold that's ready for the bin and give it some coffee and cola and try to replicate the issue. Maybe we'll start a whole new thing, people will need to have an acid etched plaster cast piece to complete their collections : ) I'll let you know how the experiment goes.
  9. Hi All, I'm wondering if anyone can help me solve a bit of a ceramic mystery, I'm a slip caster from Australia. I've poured thousands of molds over the last thirty or so years and this issue has only occured on two of them (so far). Essentially small parts of the mold (that appear identical to the rest) can be rubbed away with light finger pressure. It doesn't rub away in chunks but seems to have reverted back to it's original powder form somehow. These molds are different brands (scioto and albertas) and are otherwise in good condition. It doesn't appear to be water damage as I've seen what that looks like. They are also stored in the same area with thousands of other molds that do not exhibit this issue. I know the scioto mold had the problem from day 1 but I'm pretty sure the albertas mold has only developed it recently. My only thought is that both companies may have simultaneously used a dodgy batch of plaster, seems a bit of a stretch though. Anyone else got any ideas? Cheers, Shane
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