neilestrick

SRML wire will work just fine for element connections.  It's affordable and works very well. For element feeds you will typically use 12ga or 10ga, depending on amperage draw.
If you're using crimp connectors for the element connections, use hi-temp barrel connectors. Or you can also use copper set screw lugs, you just have to remove the offset tongue and use the connector part. I like non-crimping connectors because it allows you to take things apart if you need to.
Terminal blocks are usually located behind an insulating baffle, or at the bottom of the box where it stays cool, so any block should work fine. Just make sure it can handle the amperage.

Looks like carbon to me, and that matches up with 600 degrees. The organic materials started to burn, but it didn't get hot enough to burn them out completely.

Looks like carbon to me, and that matches up with 600 degrees. The organic materials started to burn, but it didn't get hot enough to burn them out completely.

I'm with Bill. Making people calculate volume is a big pain for everyone involved. Asking most people to do that sort of math is not a good idea. Weight is a much easier way to do it, and you can easily have different pricing categories for big wide pieces like serving bowls that take up a lot of volume without much mass, and cups and such that are more compact. Or better yet, just include glazing and firing costs in the price of the clay. It keeps students from feeling like they're getting nickel-and-dimed to death, takes away a cumbersome step in the process, and makes it easier for people to  track and budget their pottery class spending.  I've done it by weight from day one, and it works fine. It's easy enough to figure out the approximate weight of clay in a typical load and calculate all the associated costs of firing and come up with a price. Plus it motivates people to throw thinner with less trimming, and makes them think more about the technical aspects of clay work like avoiding cracks and warping and whatnot that may keep the piece from getting fired.

Buy the e18S-3 now. Get a bigger kiln in the future. You'll be happy to have both, plus you will soon realize how limiting the 18" wide kiln is (I have an e18T-3). Due to the small diameter shelf size (15") and the fact that you also need posts to hold up the next shelf, it's pretty bad for fitting anything but cylindrical pieces. If you make small condiment bowls you can fit a few on a shelf, but you'll still have a fair amount of wasted space. Small cereal bowls will fit 3 on a shelf, but soup bowls will only fit 2. It's great for mugs and small vases, though. Plus the Easy Fire is easier to work on than the Jupiter, and has fewer parts that could wear out.
Call Rob Battey at Northwest Potters Supply when you're ready to order.

Most glazes I’ve used benefit from slaking overnight before sieving. Given Tony says that Tile 6 “is relatively impermeable to water compared to other kaolins, it is thus the last choice for casting bodies,” I’m curious what the comparison is between the glazes a week later.  
Side by side, there seems to be a few more impurities in EPK than Tile 6. While the flux comparisons have some variation that might need watching in a glaze formula, the silica and alumina balances are close enough that part might not matter. 
Tile 6  is known for its plasticity in clay bodies, which I can confirm from personal use. The plasticity may have an effect on some high clay glazes where shrinkage could affect application, but that’s theory on my part, and if someone knows better, speak up. 
As to why a material might be washed and another isn’t: we have to remember that potters are a secondary market for almost all of the materials we use. EPK I think gets used to make glossy magazine paper. If tile 6 is mined for something else, the washing may not be necessary. 
Edited to add:
Links to Digitalfire materials pages for comparison. 
Tile 6 writeup
EPK writeup

Buy the e18S-3 now. Get a bigger kiln in the future. You'll be happy to have both, plus you will soon realize how limiting the 18" wide kiln is (I have an e18T-3). Due to the small diameter shelf size (15") and the fact that you also need posts to hold up the next shelf, it's pretty bad for fitting anything but cylindrical pieces. If you make small condiment bowls you can fit a few on a shelf, but you'll still have a fair amount of wasted space. Small cereal bowls will fit 3 on a shelf, but soup bowls will only fit 2. It's great for mugs and small vases, though. Plus the Easy Fire is easier to work on than the Jupiter, and has fewer parts that could wear out.
Call Rob Battey at Northwest Potters Supply when you're ready to order.

If you need it for glazes, just about any kaolin will work. I've used Sapphire, grolleg, Tile 6, etc, without problems.

Sure thing. Just putting it out there in case you or someone else needed it.

If you need it for glazes, just about any kaolin will work. I've used Sapphire, grolleg, Tile 6, etc, without problems.

I would expect a little variation in your settings, but it shouldn't be anything major. Just make sure you get a big enough propane tank.

The clay suppliers cannot control the quality of their raw materials, nor can they test each bag of raw materials, nor can they really inspect every batch of clay to find chunks in it, especially if the chunks not a certain percentage of the mix. It would be impossible to find them. They rely on their raw materials suppliers to provide quality materials, and they take a risk with every batch of clay they make. But it's they're job to acknowledge that there's a problem and make it right, either through refund or replacement, just like the raw materials suppliers will have to do for them. That's all they can do- be nice about it and make it right. If they can't do that, I would consider finding another supplier (I know that's not a simple thing). Clay is cheap, even when it's expensive, and replacing one ton isn't going to hurt their bottom line at all when they're selling a few million pounds a year.
I used to run the clay production lines at A.R.T. clay, and if we found a problem that was not the fault of the potter, we would replace the clay body. One person who bought 100 pounds and had a problem is probably not the clay's fault. Several reports from different studios is probably a clay problem. Chunks of rock would definitely fall into the replacement category, regardless of how many people found it. We once found a hole in the stainless steel liner of our mixer, meaning there was a quarter-sized piece of metal (or several smaller pieces) somewhere in the clay. Bad news. We had to throw out all the clay we had mixed since we last cleaned out the mixer completely and knew there wasn't a hole in it, something like 12,000 pounds.

The last 100C degrees are the most important in terms of how your glazes will melt. Take a look at a cone chart and make sure the final ramp is at the correct rate and target temp for the cone you're trying to achieve.

I agree with Neil, however reduction and your visuals likely will change a bit. That nice blue flame is not something you will see so much with propane. Propane literally has double the btu output per cubic foot used, but proper orifices will compensate for this. You should be firing on temperature and rate so manually controlling will compensate for slight faster or slower. For reduction, your visuals will change a bit but not something you will not grow accustom to.

The last 100C degrees are the most important in terms of how your glazes will melt. Take a look at a cone chart and make sure the final ramp is at the correct rate and target temp for the cone you're trying to achieve.

I have used Weebly for a long time and it works well. I use their shopping system, too.

Low fire clay remains porous even after firing. If the glaze has any crazing (crackling) in it, then the water can seep through the small cracks in the glaze and soak into the body.

Congrats! It would be worth getting a cone 10 to build them from, as it will be less likely to bend at cone 6. You may be able to add more wires then.

Low fire clay remains porous even after firing. If the glaze has any crazing (crackling) in it, then the water can seep through the small cracks in the glaze and soak into the body.

Low fire clay remains porous even after firing. If the glaze has any crazing (crackling) in it, then the water can seep through the small cracks in the glaze and soak into the body.

You'll have to take off the control box to get it apart, but then you can move the upper and lower sections separately, which will be much easier and safer than trying to move it all at once. Just label the wires as you unhook them so you can put it back together properly. Set it on a piece of foam when you move it so you don't break the bricks. House insulating foam board works fine. Did they include the stand? If not, buy one or use cinder blocks.
HERE is the manual. Most all manual kilns work the same. Set up the Sitter with the proper cone, then do 1 hour with all switches on low, 1 hour on medium, then high until the Sitter shuts it off.  Set the Sitter timer to about 1/2 hour longer than you expect the firing to take (you'll have to do a firing to figure that out).
I assume this is going in your home? That kiln currently has elements for 208 volt electrical service. In order to use it at your house you'll need to change them to 240 volt elements. The amperage draw will probably be slightly lower with the new elements, but it will probably need a 60 amp circuit. Call Paragon for elements and to confirm the amperage draw. Kilns must be on a breaker that is 25% greater than the draw of the kiln. If Paragon's elements are pricey, also try Euclids.com.

You'll have to take off the control box to get it apart, but then you can move the upper and lower sections separately, which will be much easier and safer than trying to move it all at once. Just label the wires as you unhook them so you can put it back together properly. Set it on a piece of foam when you move it so you don't break the bricks. House insulating foam board works fine. Did they include the stand? If not, buy one or use cinder blocks.
HERE is the manual. Most all manual kilns work the same. Set up the Sitter with the proper cone, then do 1 hour with all switches on low, 1 hour on medium, then high until the Sitter shuts it off.  Set the Sitter timer to about 1/2 hour longer than you expect the firing to take (you'll have to do a firing to figure that out).
I assume this is going in your home? That kiln currently has elements for 208 volt electrical service. In order to use it at your house you'll need to change them to 240 volt elements. The amperage draw will probably be slightly lower with the new elements, but it will probably need a 60 amp circuit. Call Paragon for elements and to confirm the amperage draw. Kilns must be on a breaker that is 25% greater than the draw of the kiln. If Paragon's elements are pricey, also try Euclids.com.

That should have gotten you to cone 06, maybe even cone 05. It's really more important that it's firing accurately at glaze temps, which it is, so I wouldn't make any changes to the thermocouple offsets. I would just adjust the final temp up 30-40 degrees.

That should have gotten you to cone 06, maybe even cone 05. It's really more important that it's firing accurately at glaze temps, which it is, so I wouldn't make any changes to the thermocouple offsets. I would just adjust the final temp up 30-40 degrees.

That should have gotten you to cone 06, maybe even cone 05. It's really more important that it's firing accurately at glaze temps, which it is, so I wouldn't make any changes to the thermocouple offsets. I would just adjust the final temp up 30-40 degrees.