neilestrick
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Posts posted by neilestrick
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The cooling rate of baby kilns is much too fast to give accurate results compared to a full size kiln. If you have a digital kiln, program a cooling cycle from the peak temp down to 1500F at a rate of 175/hr. That will be a good approximation of the cooling rate in a big kiln. If you have a manual kiln, then you have to be at the kiln when it shuts off, then lift the Sitter weight, turn the kiln back on, and gently lower the weight so it doesn't kick it off. Then put the kiln on medium for about 3 hours, which will cool it more slowly, then turn it off.
- Pres, Babs and Callie Beller Diesel
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2 hours ago, Ann E. V. said:
I am looking at the Bartlett V6-CF control board as it is much more reasonably priced than the Skutt wall mount controller.
The Bartlett V6-CF is just a controller, whereas the Skutt wall mount has a controller and also has all the parts that make the controller work- relays, thermocouple, etc. The controller is just one part of the system that makes a digital kiln function. There are cheaper versions of wall mount controllers out there, though. Check out Orton and Olympic.
Your kiln will pull 26 amps on 240 volt service (what you have at your house), and it will need a 35 or 40 amp breaker with 8 gauge wiring.
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If the recipe call for volume, then do it that way.
Measuring by weight will generally give you a more accurate, repeatable mix. Because powders can be fluffy or compacted, you can get different amounts each time you measure by volume. Measuring by weight eliminates that variable. This is why so many baking recipes call for 'sifted' flour (sifting gives the flour a more consistent density for measuring by volume), and why professional bakers measure everything in grams.
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Keep in mind that Pinnell's test was just one of several different types of tests that could be done to determine the strength of clay, and that most clay bodies are plenty strong for what we do with them. If strength was really an issue then we'd all be using low fire red clay, yet it's one of the least used bodies there is among ceramic artists. And although grog weakens bodies, it's still used in a large percentage of stoneware bodies because it has other benefits and doesn't weaken it enough to matter. Pinnell's tests are incredibly interesting and the results surprised most of us, but they're more academic than practical for the typical potter. The far bigger issues when determining the strength of a piece are the form, thickness, and construction technique. Little fingers on a figurative sculpture are going to be easy to break off regardless of what type of clay body you use. We select clay bodies based on firing temp, texture, and color, not MOR test results.
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14 hours ago, Volleybiggs said:
Is it normal for an older kiln to smoke nonstop.
Kilns do not smoke unless there's something in the kiln that's burning. Did it smoke early on in the firing? Are you sure it was smoke and not steam? Could you see the smoke or just smell it? Did you vacuum out the kiln before firing it?
One of the big downsides of Duncan kilns is that they use twice as many elements as most kilns. Instead of one element going around the kiln twice, they use two separate elements, and each element is more than half the price of the longer style elements. Duncan has been out of the kiln business for a really long time, so I'd shop around and just get whatever's cheapest. Try Euclids.com if you haven't. $40 per element sounds about right.
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1 hour ago, Lilya said:
Hi @neilestrick, thank you so much for your reply.
I can't find frit 3124 here; I've already looked and it doesn't seem to exist in Europe. I'll check again though. I know it's sold in the UK, but since Brexit, importing onto the continent is a nightmare. Is there a substitute, do you know?For the gum, I was using a Ceradel label gum. 20g of gum:1000ml of water, left overnight. Then 850g of that solution to 1kg of dry glaze base ingredients (not including and colours), sieve, and add extra water to make the consistency like crêpe batter (France!). It's better than when I didn't use the gum at all — that was totally unbrushable — but it's definitely not great. The label doesn't specify whether it's CMC, but I've just seen that they do also sell pure CMC, albeit at a much higher price, so I'll try that next with the copper carbonate. Thank you so so much.
HERE is a possible solution. Or HERE. Definitely try the Frit 1254 you mentioned, but it's closer to Ferro 3134 than 3124, so it may not work as well.
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Hi @Lilya, welcome to the forum!
To make a glaze brushable:
Mix 2 tbsp CMC and 1/4 tsp copper carbonate with 1 gallon of water. Let it sit overnight, then mix well with a submersion blender. When mixing your glaze, substitute the gum syrup for about 1/3 of the water.
I would probably toss the current glaze. Sounds like you've messed with it enough that you can't save it.
The classic 80/20 raku white crackle glaze is just a clear glaze. It was popular because Gerstley was cheap and it suspended very well. The reason it crackles is because of the thermal shock. You can get the same effect from a low fire clear glaze like a simple 90 Frit 3124 and 10 EPK. Just like the original 80/20, you need to apply it somewhat thick to get good crackle. Having some clay in the recipe will make it suspend and brush better than a frit /neph sye blend.
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Hi @finnip, welcome to the forum! Someone with more plaster knowledge than me will chime in, but more info would help answer your question. What type of plaster are you using? Are you mixing it with the proper proportion of water? How many castings can you get from a mold before the detail suffers? What type of slip are you using?
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If it's an indoor sculpture, any clay body is strong enough regardless off the firing temp. How you pack it is much more important. In terms of deciding how hot to fire, that will depend on what types of surfaces you're after, and what materials are needed to achieve that. You'll also need to consider the shape of the piece and how the clay will respond to different firing temps. Porcelain is more likely to warp and sag when fired to maturity, low fire temps won't have that problem.
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On 3/30/2023 at 5:10 PM, Ben xyz said:
Surprised there aren't more options out there for those of us who prefer matte surfaces on occasion while working w/ underglazes.
The nature of glazes is that opacity increases as they become more matte. There's a limit to how matte a surface can be a still remain transparent.
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There should be a pulley/ring on the motor shaft that the belts runs on. Is that pulley slipping on the shaft?
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@Mosquito There's a very real chance you'll have a hard time finding someone who wants to buy the molds as a full batch. If you want to put in the effort, you could list them individually on eBay and you may find some buyers. People who are into it are often looking for specific molds. If they're commercially made molds, they should have a number on them. Otherwise, check around for local paint-you-own pottery shops that pour their own greenware and see if they're interested. If the molds are for doll parts they probably won't be, but if you have figurines and such they may.
Like Callie said, the value of the kiln depends entirely on the condition of the bricks. I say put it up for $200 and see what happens.
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35 minutes ago, Clay17 said:
I noticed red-orange specks in the clay which leads me to believe Standard is using red brick as grog, That's not unusual just surprising.
There is no grog in the 630. Could be from the fireclay, though, or some sort of contamination. I've not seen it in any of my clay.
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19 minutes ago, irenepots said:
I bought a Speedball a few years ago because they were the cheapest and I'd used them where I took lessons.
Which model did you get?
@Earl Speedball wheels are at the low end of price and quality, but that doesn't mean they don't work well. If you want a tabletop wheel, I highly recommend the Speedball Artista. I've thrown a 10 pound pot on one of those little wheels. Their regular wheels are fine, but the pedal is definitely a weak point in the design- it's plastic and feels cheap compared to the heavy cast metal pedals most other brands use. They have plenty of power, though, and honestly you get used to whatever equipment you have once you use it for a while.
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I'm with Bill. Making people calculate volume is a big pain for everyone involved. Asking most people to do that sort of math is not a good idea. Weight is a much easier way to do it, and you can easily have different pricing categories for big wide pieces like serving bowls that take up a lot of volume without much mass, and cups and such that are more compact. Or better yet, just include glazing and firing costs in the price of the clay. It keeps students from feeling like they're getting nickel-and-dimed to death, takes away a cumbersome step in the process, and makes it easier for people to track and budget their pottery class spending. I've done it by weight from day one, and it works fine. It's easy enough to figure out the approximate weight of clay in a typical load and calculate all the associated costs of firing and come up with a price. Plus it motivates people to throw thinner with less trimming, and makes them think more about the technical aspects of clay work like avoiding cracks and warping and whatnot that may keep the piece from getting fired.
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I tried to order some Skutt/TS wheel pedal potentiometers and was informed that they have redesigned the pedal and are no longer selling the old potentiometers. I did a little digging on the internet and found that the old potentiometers are no longer made, and there is not a direct replacement ( they were not made by Skutt). Seems they were forced to redesign the pedal to use a different potentiometer. A new pedal assembly costs $375 list. Luckily, the old potentiometers last forever. I've got 11 Skutt/TS wheels and have only ever had to replace 1 potentiometer in 20 years. But if you're worried, you might want to try to find one somewhere to have in stock should it die.
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15 minutes ago, Pottery Workshop Marrakech said:
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Speedball Clay Boss: Since you mentioned having experience with Speedball wheels in your classes, the Clay Boss might be a familiar option. It has a 1/2 HP motor and can handle up to 100 lbs of clay. It's a popular choice for both beginners and experienced potters.
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Shimpo VL-Lite: This wheel is an excellent option for beginners and intermediate potters. It has a 1/2 HP motor, can handle up to 25 lbs of clay, and offers a smooth and quiet operation.
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Brent Model B: Brent wheels are known for their durability and reliability. The Model B has a 1/2 HP motor and can handle up to 150 lbs of clay. It's suitable for both beginners and experienced potters.
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Pacifica GT400: This wheel offers a 1/2 HP motor and can handle up to 80 lbs of clay. It's a solid choice for those looking for a quiet, reliable wheel that can grow with their skills.
This is where it can get confusing. The Pacifica, Speedball, and Shimpo ratings are for how much clay can be centered on the wheel, which is when it's under the greatest load and torque really matters. The Brent B rating is how much clay the wheel can handle with it just sitting on there spinning, not under a lot of pressure. For some reason Brent stopped advertising their centering capacity and started using what they call 'continuous' load a few years back, probably just because '150 pounds continuously' sounds more impressive than '25 pound centering capacity'. So you have to pay close attention to what they're saying. Any wheel can handle simply rotating with way more clay sitting on it than you'll ever actually throw. What matters is its ability to maintain speed under heavy loads like when centering, or maintaining consistent slow speeds like when working out at the edge of a large bowl or platter. Most wheels can be made to work just fine with some adjustments to your throwing style, but in general a bigger motor makes it easier. That said, most of what most potters make is under 5-6 pounds, which just about any wheel can handle without any problems.
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1 hour ago, elenab said:
Cone 6 temperature. I don't measure the temperature, I only use a kiln sitter. My glaze is Amaco Snow, maybe it's a glaze?
If you bisque fired to cone 6, then your clay is no longer porous and will not accept glaze well. You need to bisque fire to a much lower temperature like cone 04. That will harden the clay but it will still be porous for glazing.
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17 minutes ago, Denice said:
Definitely get a one hp.
Depends on the brand. The Skutt 1/3hp, Soldner 1/4hp, and Brent 3/4hp can all handle the same amount of clay.
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The Shimpo Whisper and Pacifica GT wheels all are within your budget, and are good wheels that will work for what 99% of potters make.
IMO, Brent wheels last forever, but so do most wheels, and most wheels have better control than Brent. I own 9 Skutt wheels and they all have far better pedal control than Brent. And Brent replacement parts are pricey.
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Is it a 4 position switch, where the dial clicks into position at lo, med, hi, off- or does the dial turn smoothly from low to high?
Skutt model 181 kiln?
in Equipment Use and Repair
Posted
What size breaker? What settings were the kiln switches on?