Jump to content

Kakes

Members
  • Content Count

    35
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Kakes

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thank you everyone for your replies! I'm going to give it a try
  2. hi @Smokey2, this is great information. Have you encountered any issues with potential damage to the kiln - or anything else - from firing pieces coated with acrylic paint?
  3. Some time ago I made a small table out of clay - it's roughly 16" high. I painted the unglazed underside and inside of the legs with acrylic paint, thinking I was finished with it. Now, I'd like to refire it to cone 5-6 (no additional glaze). Has anyone fired something with acrylic paint on it in an electric kiln? Will it ruin my kiln? (As an aside, I finally bought some Advancer shelves after saving up. Will doing this ruin the shelf?)
  4. The Nilfisk is completely sealed, and I didn't notice any exhaust, but that doesn't seem possible, now that you mention it. I'll check next time I'm in the studio..
  5. I thought I'd report back about what I ended up with. After much research, I bought a Nilfisk Aero 21-01 PC HEPA vacuum which cost about $350 directly from Nilfisk. They sell through Amazon too. This was the most reasonably priced of the vacuums that I felt like I could trust to not blow silica dust back all over my studio - they have lots of documentation on this. One thing I found is that there are a lot of vacuums labeled HEPA, but that in no way guarantees safety from dust. Even though I do mop every day, I really needed a vacuum for cleaning (like vacuuming out the kiln occasionally).
  6. @Mark C. @Bill Kielb and everyone else who responded, thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge. I am deeply appreciative. (Sorry for the delay in my response - it's been a long holiday season.) I"m suffering from sticker shock but I'm tempted by the Advancers, mostly by the possibility of never having to deal with kiln wash again and the never warping. BUT - it seems like there are other options that might come close which I hadn't known about til now (thanks again for all this great info! this forum is the best!!) I will mull over my choices and report back. Btw, i
  7. Thank you, Bill. Should I turn off the electricity to the kiln when loading or unloading with these shelves? I have a kill switch which I've always just left on. Is this a bad idea generally?
  8. Thank you for your answers, Dick White. When you say "be careful to mount them where they are between elements.", do you mean that they shouldn't line up with a row of elements? Is this generally true with kiln shelves? I thought I just had to be careful of the thermocouple. I'm using a top loading electric kiln. This is my first year and I'm learning by doing!
  9. Hello, I just spent a couple hours reading up on Advancer shelves including all the posts here that came up on the search. I still have a few questions I'm hoping some of you might be able to answer before I bite the bullet and spend the $$$. I fire large stoneware slabs (up to 20") flat on small stoneware rods (1/4" diameter) to prevent cracking. Warping doesn't matter so much. Will they do anything different on Advancer shelves? Could I stop using the rods? Right now I have the regular solid cheap shelves - forgot what they're called. Also, I have a downdraft vent on my kiln (sk
  10. I can't figure out if this is an option -- is there a way to save posts so I can access them easily later? Like in a list of favorites? thank you, keiko
  11. Wow, that's impressive. I'm definitely going to start doing that. What type/brand of vacuum do you use? I need to buy a new one - the one I'm using is a dinky, old handheld type that spews everything out its rear end.
  12. I've heard that mopping is the best way to clean a studio, but what about a vacuum cleaner? I was told to vacuum out my kiln occasionally. I was wondering about the various models out there, wet/dry vacuums, heap filters, etc. Do any of you use a vacuum, and what type? Is it a terrible, dangerous idea?
  13. Thanks, Neil. Should I follow the slip recipe with the 240 or try another one? I'm looking for a basic black slip. Sorry, I've never made a colored slip before.
  14. I fire to cone 5, 5.5 or 6, usually 5.5. I use Standard 420, a sculpture clay, 710 which is 266 w/grog, or 240. these are all stoneware. I don't know the name of the slip recipe, I buy it readymade at a local studio. It contains: grolleg, redart, minspar 200, silica, bentonite, pyrophyllite, red iron oxide, black iron oxide, manganese dioxide, and cobalt oxide. I have a Skutt 1222, a year old.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.