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Kakes

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  1. Thank you for the replies. I think I'll take my chances. Maybe I'll end up with blue clay!
  2. I like the PotteryNotes app for keeping track of photos with brief notes. It's hard to do that elsewhere. There is good info on their website, Potterynotes.com on how to back up your data. I do keep a physical notebook for extensive notes though.
  3. Oh no! I love the Duncan true matte line too, especially their whites. I've yet to find another brand that has the variety of whites and creams that they do. But I was reading the label on the pint of Amaco clear satin and it says that all the colors, except a couple of reds, are mixable. So, as Natalie suggests, perhaps you could mix a similar color?
  4. I was responding to the original poster. But yes, you're right about regional clay availability.
  5. I have some clay that I had applied Amaco Velvet Underglaze to (one color, I think Teal Blue, probably a couple of coats). It was a slab piece, so the underglaze is on one side. Would it be ok to recycle this clay as usual and handbuild with it? What are the potential issues? The clay itself is a light cream color when fired. Am I courting trouble here? thank you!
  6. I use Standard 710 (which is 266 with grog), single fire on a Skutt automatic slow fire setting to cone 5 with a 20 minute hold, no bisque at all, and I haven't had any problems. (I sure hope I'm not jinxing myself saying this!) I use commercial glazes from Amaco, Spectrum, and Coyote and most glazes come out beautiful on this clay. Since I never bisque, I'm wondering the bloating you have is from some other issue. Maybe you're firing too hot?
  7. Hi all, I thought I'd share some additional info since I've learned very helpful stuff on this forum, thought I'd repay the favors. After owning my hepa vac for a year and a half, I'm pretty satisfied with it. (NILFISK Aero 21-01 HEPA). It comes with an 11' hose which is very handy for controlling the exhaust direction, as someone mentioned above. I can place the vacuum just outside my studio, with the exhaust port facing out so there's no turbulence kicking up any clay dust within my studio. I hadn't thought about this issue when researching hepa vacuums, that no matter how well sealed, they all have an exhaust that blows the ( filtered) air out. ALSO, I discovered that the exhaust portal is exactly the same as the intake, so I am ordering another 11' hose to attach to it and put it out the door for areas I can't quite reach with the one hose. I did check w/NILFISK tech who told me that no one had ever asked about this before (?), and referred me to a sales rep who he said had more 'field' experience. The rep assured me that this should be fine & wouldn't impact performance. As a not insignificant aside, Nilfisk has excellent customer service. (I have no connection to Nilfisk, except as a satisfied customer, lol) Of course, I'm not 100% sure that this set-up is completely safe, but it's as close as I can get. I only vacuum once a month or so ( I do mop daily), while wearing a respirator, and try to do it at the end of Friday, so any dust can settle over the weekend.
  8. Thank you everyone for your replies! I'm going to give it a try
  9. hi @Smokey2, this is great information. Have you encountered any issues with potential damage to the kiln - or anything else - from firing pieces coated with acrylic paint?
  10. Some time ago I made a small table out of clay - it's roughly 16" high. I painted the unglazed underside and inside of the legs with acrylic paint, thinking I was finished with it. Now, I'd like to refire it to cone 5-6 (no additional glaze). Has anyone fired something with acrylic paint on it in an electric kiln? Will it ruin my kiln? (As an aside, I finally bought some Advancer shelves after saving up. Will doing this ruin the shelf?)
  11. I can't figure out if this is an option -- is there a way to save posts so I can access them easily later? Like in a list of favorites? thank you, keiko
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