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Kakes

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  1. Thank you for the replies. I think I'll take my chances. Maybe I'll end up with blue clay!
  2. I like the PotteryNotes app for keeping track of photos with brief notes. It's hard to do that elsewhere. There is good info on their website, Potterynotes.com on how to back up your data. I do keep a physical notebook for extensive notes though.
  3. Oh no! I love the Duncan true matte line too, especially their whites. I've yet to find another brand that has the variety of whites and creams that they do. But I was reading the label on the pint of Amaco clear satin and it says that all the colors, except a couple of reds, are mixable. So, as Natalie suggests, perhaps you could mix a similar color?
  4. I was responding to the original poster. But yes, you're right about regional clay availability.
  5. I have some clay that I had applied Amaco Velvet Underglaze to (one color, I think Teal Blue, probably a couple of coats). It was a slab piece, so the underglaze is on one side. Would it be ok to recycle this clay as usual and handbuild with it? What are the potential issues? The clay itself is a light cream color when fired. Am I courting trouble here? thank you!
  6. I use Standard 710 (which is 266 with grog), single fire on a Skutt automatic slow fire setting to cone 5 with a 20 minute hold, no bisque at all, and I haven't had any problems. (I sure hope I'm not jinxing myself saying this!) I use commercial glazes from Amaco, Spectrum, and Coyote and most glazes come out beautiful on this clay. Since I never bisque, I'm wondering the bloating you have is from some other issue. Maybe you're firing too hot?
  7. Hi all, I thought I'd share some additional info since I've learned very helpful stuff on this forum, thought I'd repay the favors. After owning my hepa vac for a year and a half, I'm pretty satisfied with it. (NILFISK Aero 21-01 HEPA). It comes with an 11' hose which is very handy for controlling the exhaust direction, as someone mentioned above. I can place the vacuum just outside my studio, with the exhaust port facing out so there's no turbulence kicking up any clay dust within my studio. I hadn't thought about this issue when researching hepa vacuums, that no matter how well sealed, they all have an exhaust that blows the ( filtered) air out. ALSO, I discovered that the exhaust portal is exactly the same as the intake, so I am ordering another 11' hose to attach to it and put it out the door for areas I can't quite reach with the one hose. I did check w/NILFISK tech who told me that no one had ever asked about this before (?), and referred me to a sales rep who he said had more 'field' experience. The rep assured me that this should be fine & wouldn't impact performance. As a not insignificant aside, Nilfisk has excellent customer service. (I have no connection to Nilfisk, except as a satisfied customer, lol) Of course, I'm not 100% sure that this set-up is completely safe, but it's as close as I can get. I only vacuum once a month or so ( I do mop daily), while wearing a respirator, and try to do it at the end of Friday, so any dust can settle over the weekend.
  8. Thank you everyone for your replies! I'm going to give it a try
  9. hi @Smokey2, this is great information. Have you encountered any issues with potential damage to the kiln - or anything else - from firing pieces coated with acrylic paint?
  10. Some time ago I made a small table out of clay - it's roughly 16" high. I painted the unglazed underside and inside of the legs with acrylic paint, thinking I was finished with it. Now, I'd like to refire it to cone 5-6 (no additional glaze). Has anyone fired something with acrylic paint on it in an electric kiln? Will it ruin my kiln? (As an aside, I finally bought some Advancer shelves after saving up. Will doing this ruin the shelf?)
  11. The Nilfisk is completely sealed, and I didn't notice any exhaust, but that doesn't seem possible, now that you mention it. I'll check next time I'm in the studio..
  12. I thought I'd report back about what I ended up with. After much research, I bought a Nilfisk Aero 21-01 PC HEPA vacuum which cost about $350 directly from Nilfisk. They sell through Amazon too. This was the most reasonably priced of the vacuums that I felt like I could trust to not blow silica dust back all over my studio - they have lots of documentation on this. One thing I found is that there are a lot of vacuums labeled HEPA, but that in no way guarantees safety from dust. Even though I do mop every day, I really needed a vacuum for cleaning (like vacuuming out the kiln occasionally). There are a couple of quirks with this model: there is no cord storage, it doesn't come with a brush attachment (I ordered one from Nilfisk for a few dollars), and the hose is super long which is kind of a pain for maneuvering around tight areas but some people might like that you don't have to move the canister around much. For a bit extra, you can get the model that hooks up with power tools - I wish I'd gotten that one. Oh well.
  13. @Mark C. @Bill Kielb and everyone else who responded, thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge. I am deeply appreciative. (Sorry for the delay in my response - it's been a long holiday season.) I"m suffering from sticker shock but I'm tempted by the Advancers, mostly by the possibility of never having to deal with kiln wash again and the never warping. BUT - it seems like there are other options that might come close which I hadn't known about til now (thanks again for all this great info! this forum is the best!!) I will mull over my choices and report back. Btw, is there a way to link to a person here without quoting an entire post?
  14. Thank you, Bill. Should I turn off the electricity to the kiln when loading or unloading with these shelves? I have a kill switch which I've always just left on. Is this a bad idea generally?
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