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Everything posted by Stephen

  1. ouch, hope it shivered in your studio and at the customers home.
  2. That's what I figured, just not worth the risk. I tried a few of the crack repair tricks once mentioned here as well and ended up just tossing the pots. I think I asked the question and folks dialed me in on some blends that they used and it seemed to work OK (used a couple of suggested goos) on several pots that had accumulated on the shelve with small cracks and the glaze covered it up fine but I just couldn't sell them to anyone. Just bugged me too much that down the road the pot might fail. Prob like removing a band aid, less painful if its done quickly, just bag'um up and toss them
  3. hey Tamra, I have a test kiln that size. While I have $500 vents on the other 2 larger kilns I must admit I don't have this one vented directly but it sees very light use. I leave out the top plug until it hits 1000-1200f and then plug it up . Is it in a small un-ventilated room? Do you have a window or door you can open when its firing? It's a half of one cubic feet so the amount of heat in the room is no where near that of a larger studio kiln (5-7cf fairly normal) but it is still a concern. If you move to a larger kiln all of these issues are magnified so be sure and re-check everything wi
  4. not to alarm anyone who has accidentally bisque fired to a vitrified cone temp by mistake and then used one of the various tricks to get glaze to stick. I have always been curious why shivering is not a possible outcome of glazing vitrified clay. My logic is that part of the bond between the clay and glaze is the soak that occurs when a pot is glazed in a porous state' Since this is eliminated by firing the raw clay to maturity I worry that instead of a good glaze fit it will instead just become a tight fitting glass shell around the ware more likely to shiver off over time if it gets the slig
  5. Here's 496 here (only 2 acres though): https://www.zillow.com/homedetails/169-Hidden-Point-New-Braunfels-TX-78132/70943195_zpid/
  6. We always did what we called 'the loop' on a sunny day when relatives or friends came in. It started early morning with a drive from sky valley (In between Gold Bar\Index) to La Conner for morning shop hopping, lunch in Anacortes on Fidalgo if we got an early enough start and then drive down through Deception Pass for view/pics and then down to walk on ferry to Port Townsend for a couple hours shop hopping and then ferry back to Whidbey and drive around to Langley for dinner at a place called the Prima Bistro that has a rooftop patio that overlooks the sound and then a ferry over to Mukiteo an
  7. will do! Hope to spend a month or two this summer there in the RV.
  8. Lived in the Seattle area for almost 30 years and moved to Texas a few years ago (grew up in Houston and college at UT) and while I do not miss the rain I do miss the beauty. We were very active and spent a lot of time camping and enjoying the northwest and the Islands and Port Townsend/Port Angeles areas are the best. Sky Valley is also fantastic but we lived there pretty much the whole time so want something different. My 3 decades experience tells me Anacortes or Friday Harbor.
  9. sweet! If I can get enough to fall into place we are looking at San Juan Island for at least half the year and maybe full time.
  10. Hey Jammer, Is this the right kiln? Its pretty small and has A 1000 max temp is low fire so make sure it matches up to your work.
  11. Hey 5 years of school is enough. I was coming from the "everyone one that can go, should go the college route when they are young". It's a once in a life time thing and once you start tossing in the expenses of the wants and needs as you get older that opportunity usually passes you by. Don't like accounting huh? Oh well, It probably seemed like a good idea at the time. I don't know what the percentages are but I think prob half or more of folks who work in clay are self taught. As mentioned YouTube is fantastic. Check out Simon Leech along with all of the other recommendations, he has a
  12. sure will grab a shot later. Just slump/press molds basically that you normally sell made out of plaster or ceramical sold commercially. I just prototype in wood first to dial it in.
  13. I sprinkle in and dust it around a bit and then tap any loose residue out, works OK but do have issues with thin carvings not releasing well occasionally on wood. These have been prototypes until now that get trashed after a press or two and no products have been made with them. I worry about baking spray and/WD40 for pretty much the same reason as you (a large drop filling the corner or a design part) and the detail not being crisp. This is my first attempt at trying to hang on to the wood prototype molds and use for a bit and even have some go through the work flow and become product.
  14. ha ha, hopefully they are not still trying to move it 6 years later :-)
  15. Just me talking but yeah definitely do the degree and get a masters as well if possible. Do you need to do that to be successful, I don't think so but it will change your journey and prob for the better. School is the time that you can soak up not just pottery but art history in general. You will get exposed to other mediums and points of view and be forced out of your comfort zone to do things you won't do on your own. You will also likely make a few life long friends and meet tons of interesting people. Not huge fan of the being a grunt at someones studio but if you are you can do that while
  16. You say you got your basement studio setup last year, tell us about it. You mention production. Are you selling stuff to people, making stuff for yourself or building inventory to do a show later when you feel you are ready? Do you make slab built pottery, wheel thrown pottery or both?
  17. Just bisque afterward so cooking spray would be fine. I have been using corn starch with the unsealed do you think the cooking spray would be better than the corn starch on the sealed oak?
  18. Hey thanks for the response, that's what I can't find in my search and worries me about sealing, Guess I will test by just sealing a few and leaving a few unsealed. It's in the 70's so going to let dry in sun and then press tonight so will know soon enough.
  19. same thing will happen to glass. It takes a year or three but it will more likely than not separate and fall/pop off.
  20. I'm carving a couple of oak wood press molds this morning for prototyping a couple of tile designs. Will prob use them for about 10 presses and then I would like to hang on to them if I need them down the road after I make the plaster molds. I've used white wood for prototyping without any sealer or mold release and then tossing after a couple of uses but they are a bit rough by the time I toss them and I don't want these oak ones to warp since I might re-use in the future. I was going to hit them with a light urethane coat and let dry overnight before using. Is this a good idea or will
  21. Yeah mine is a Mr Cool, hired a relative help, got the big one and also needed dedicated 220 power but still cost under three grand when all said and done and works great.
  22. prob best, Callie and some of the others will likely chime in with some input.
  23. At 1700 (F) you didn't make it very far and even if heat work pushed it up it certainly didn't push it all the way to cone 6 or above and prob is just fine and will almost certainly have to be re-fired. Once it cools down you can access the load and go from there. At 10 degrees an hour though it really does not seem like its remotely working off of any program at this point and It seems unlikely to hit cone 6 in our lifetime . You mentioned that you had only done bisque firing so far. Has this kiln ever been glaze fired to cone 6 by you? Is it possible the elements are worn out?
  24. ya know I would. If the load is under-fired as Callie mentioned you can re-fire later after you do some test on the kiln and get to the bottom of it.
  25. I like to throw money at any problem I have. It is wasteful in some ways and a blessing in others. When in the Northwest it was the driving force behind me building a free standing finished out studio with baseboard heaters that was just like being in the house and here in Texas it is a split AC/ heat pump that keeps the studio always around 70 whether its 105 in the summer or 30 this time of year. If you can spare the dough I would solve the heat/cold problem. If not then the tea kettle seems like a fine idea.
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