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About Crusty

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    Louisville,Ky in the Ohio river valley
  • Interests
    Raku, is our main interest but high fire isn't out of our spectrum.. We also enjoy oil painting and being creative when ever possible.. We love a good fire while setting outside on the porch under the massive Maple tree that shades our back yard,house and shed..

    We are newbies at clay although we have dabbled in it off and on in the past.. We keep coming back to it, something just draws us in deeper and deeper.. < Maybe a Earthly connection that is growing stronger and making our bond to each other stronger as well..

    ~Jim and Cindy

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  1. makes sense and less work. saves me a little money , I like that.. I'll just set it up and throw a flame in it.
  2. Liambesaw ,, I thought the rigidizer took care of the loose fibre problem? with this kiln, it can be modified any way but I'm thinking inside as I'm not totally sure on the brick.. I'm assuming its K23 but I really do not know for sure.. it was a 37 amp 8700 .. I know they used alot of different brick types in those kilns.. Bill, thanks I'll check that out.
  3. I picked up a old 1980s J.W. Good kiln made here in Indiana.. not alot of info out there on these kilns as their out of buisness now.. size is 23 X 22 .. took me 2 hrs to grind off all the Kiln wash .. its actually in decent shape considering its age... But, the top needs new hi temp mortar between the bricks. is there a brand you trust more than others or are they all pretty much the same? maybe a recipe that will work? im also thinking of putting in a layer of 2600 F blanket on the inside. the kiln has alot of factory holes in it and it is a section style .. im thinking the b
  4. Thanks.. i have been everywhere but instagram ..
  5. Build it. concrete block and metal are safe flame retardant materials... Im in Louisville Ky, crazy weather lol... we have our kiln in the basement. IMO if the kiln has been gone through by a tech and its ok, set your basement up.. you will save money compared to building a new shed..basement has concrete floor and walls , use hardy backer for a ceiling over the kiln.. vent it and your good..
  6. Thanks Marc and Neil. I have been doing some extra research and contacted Ward with CF size and a 2 burner system.. He said the kiln must be sealed up pretty good and keep shelves at least 2.5 to 3 inches from kiln walls for best air flow. I think 15'' like neil suggested ill be perfect, also do not over pack the kiln...Out side chimney is best but did not give a diameter or stack height.. so i need to figure that out.. so the plan rite now is to kill all the angles in the octagon shape by putting a layer of cerawool in and that should help with air leaks and seal it up better..
  7. alot of the newer controllers will slow down around 900 F as organics start to burn off there.. i am not fimiliar with the ramp master 2 but i do see a Fast Bisque and a Slow bisque, i would not program a new bisque setting unless i was using a super gassy clay body "Black mountain" ... As long as you do not see a "error" pop up, i would say its ok. time will fluctuate due to load volume.. in a elementary school setting, i would assume they are some heavy pots though..
  8. we found a used kiln that would be perfect for a gas conversion ''downdraft''.. it is 23.5 in wide and 22 tall 3 sections - im pretty sure thats close to 5 CF which is a little bigger than the J 230 we have now.. i like the design of the Geil gas kilns , seems like that is the best way to go.. i see alot of conversions being heated from the bottom on the side but im not a fan of that as there tends to be so much wasted space or am i missing something and not thinking this through fully? what about heating from the top section on the side since its a downdraft? i plan on using a W
  9. lol funny, we got the Clay Boss and 2 weeks later picked up a brand spankin new J-230 18x27 L&L manual kiln still wrapped up and on the pallet with kiln shelf kit . Plus a used Shimpo Velocity that was and still is in good shape for $300.00 .. you talk about 2 happy potters doing a little dance ...
  10. still playing around. My order did not get on the transfer today, kind of bummed about that.. not to mention they sold me stuff that was out of stock.. I did use a Underglaze over the SS , Black on White looks pretty good.. I used the torch to dry the SS and UG .. i used slip on the inside of the pot and when it started to tighten up i added water with a sponge.. it was pretty firm but it did move, i cant believe how thin you can get with this stuff...
  11. I swoosh it really fast in a bucket of water.. no problems at all with it hardening up as long as i do it rite after im done with it.
  12. Yes, i actually seen the picture and notice it looked "off" .. sometimes i put them in while wet, sometimes i use a small carving loop tool my wife got for me... i looked in your albums, the color you have on those big leaf designed platters is nice.. like a Tan maybe? i want a tan. soft yellow color to use..
  13. I like making mugs,vases in the 2 to 3 lb range and large bowls. i make some other things to but mostly those 3..
  14. I'll check them out old lady. Thanks Min. so far we been using just SS over the form. we will try that to.. my photos must be to big, I'll try to resize them..
  15. Oldlady- we just ordered all of our slip ingredients and some colorants. we want to work with slips for a while .. we also seen where folks are making a slip and putting the SS into the slip but we are not sure on the amount.. we will have to work that out.. liambesaw- One thing i have noticed about the torch is, if i get it to hot and steam comes out of the top i normally have pot cracking or the base will torque off the bat.. ill sponge the inside and give it a shot,Thanks.. we are thinking of using slips and a clear and a Celedon glaze and see how it looks.. Min, i like that po
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