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Showing results for tags 'underglaze'.
Found 129 results
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Hi! Does anyone know of an underglaze, other than mayco stoke and coat, that doesn’t need a clear glaze overtop to make it food safe? -
Hi all. Can anyone please recommend some food safe, high fire, clear matte/satin glazes? I'll be using it over fired underglaze on slipcast mugs I'm working on. Amaco recommended their SM-10 (https://www.amaco.com/products/glaze-sm-10-clear?ref=2&taxon_id=284) to me, so I'm going to try that out. But I'd like to see what other people are using as well. They can be dippable, sprayable, brushable - anything. I just want to test some different products to find what I like best. Also, I understand that the matte/satin clears aren't entirely crystal clear in the way that gloss clears are, but how much of a difference is there? I'm relatively new to ceramics so any info will be helpful. Thanks!
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Hi all - I'm fairly new to underglazing. I have historically glazed my pieces with a select few glazes which I brush -very rarely dipped. I use Bella's Blend from Highwater because the clay body shows off my favorite glazes. These are my go to glazes Coyote: Eggshell Coyote: Light blue Mayco: White opal (usually over the light blue) Mayco: Green opal Laguna: Turkish amber (accents) Amaco Celadon: Cherry Blossom Designer Liner: Black I'm not a fan of clear glaze over exposed clay body. I am adding a pic of a piece I made a few years ago - I used designer liner as the black and white opal over it - but it ran really bad and muted all the detail. So I'm wanting to try with underglaze to see if my designs will remain crisp. But I don't want to have "naked" clay around the designs. And I really love my main mid-fire glazes and the durability of mid-fired pieces. See below Suggestions on how to achieve this with underglaze (i.e. the black details?) Can I put underglaze over glaze and then cover the underglaze with celadon or clear? -
Hi all, Currently I work with mid-fire slip and glaze my work 'traditionally' to achieve quite muted, natural tones. I'm thinking about making some wares that I want to be BRIGHT and flat in colour - like popping, primary colours. I'm wondering what the best way to achieve this level of colour would be? In my experience using stains in glazes never seems to achieve the flatness I'm after. I would suspect a coloured slip might be the answer but again using stains only seems to result in pastels - what is the average ratio of stain to slip to achieve a full bodied red for example? Or would I paint the work all over with an underglaze? Or something else. All suggestions appreciated! -
So any tips for preventing warping on a cone 4 ( yes I mean 4 not 04 :D ) vitreous slip cast clay? It's a tall tiki form that is a little top heavy so they wants to sag/warp. I'm applying amaco velvet underglaze to the exterior that develops a slight sheen so I don't want to lay them on their side... Also has anyone tried firing amaco celedons at cone 4? I've been experimenting with some recipes but they are coming out more opaque and milky. Kinda in a crunch!
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Hey guys! I'm looking to make a sink basin for my bathroom in the upcoming months. I want to use Standard Ceramics 266 Dark Brown Clay with a turquoise/seafoam glaze on the interior while leaving the exterior bare. Attached is an idea of what I would like to do. I have never used a dark clay before, so I don't have experience to work off of and can't make test tiles until it is safe to use the studio again. Would coating the inside of the clay with a white underglaze cause the blue glaze to stand out more? Does anyone have a good glaze suggestion that stands out and reacts well to this clay? Or does anyone have other suggestions for completing this project whether it be clay type, glaze, helpful tips, etc.? Thanks for all the help!!
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Morning! I am looking to try a third-firing technique for added layers and details. Should I use an underglaze like amaco velvet OR an Engobe. I know they are very similar but what would be the difference in this situation? Thanks!
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I want to try my hand with trailing underglazes. know I have to play around to find what works best for what I'm trying to achieve. As a starter, should I use the underglaze full strength straight from the bottle, thin it with water, or mix it with a clear glaze? I plan on covering the work with clear glaze and I fire to cone 6
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Hi everyone! I'm trying to find out what combination of Lustre glazes this person used in order to try an recreate it on a vase. This person won't give out their recipe and I totally understand why but it's for my own curiosity and not to sell any products. What are your thoughts on this combination? https://www.instagram.com/p/B5ANbf6AU_4/?igshid=vbzq2wap6n2u
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Hi! I'm trying to make Holly´s Underglaze which needs 33.3% of Ferro Frit 3124, sadly here in my country -Mexico- that specific Frit is unavailable, but I can get Ferro 3134 and by reading Digitalfire I realized that the biggest difference is the lack of alumina, so I was thinking about increasing the amount of EPK Kaolin in the recipe and was wondering if you might have any kind of suggestion of how to modify the percentage of Kaolin or even another approach to making a proper substitution by using the 3134, I know this is a matter of trial and error but I'm hoping to decrease the errors in the process... or perhaps I'm caring too much since both frits are pretty alike... any suggestion is welcome! Thanks in advance!
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I have two pieces and am applying underglaze on top of glaze. Will it work? First piece is Laguna Ward's Red Cone 06 earthenware with cone 06 clear glaze (already fired.) Trying to fix something, so I added some underglaze and plan to add more cone 06 clear glaze. Do you recommend two firings -- one for the new underglaze, one for the additional clear glaze? Second piece: Laguna White B-Mix Cone 10 with cone 6 clear glaze (already fired.) Again, trying to fix something, so I added underglaze and plan to add Cone 6 clear glaze to the new underglazed bits. Do you recommend two firings -- one for the new underglaze (maybe at low-fire 06 level) and then high-fire cone 6 for the clear glaze? Thank you for your thoughts. Susan -
I started pottery a bit over a year ago and recently begun exploring decorative techniques. I tried some underglaze inlay on a greenware piece, carving out decorative lines on a small waxed porcelain cup, then painting the whole thing with blue underglaze, and wiping off the excess underglaze. I bisque fired the piece, then dipped it in transparent glaze and fired it again. The final cup has streaky underglaze, I don't understand why since the underglaze was bisque fired before I applied the final glaze? (I'll attach a picture, please note it's just a test piece I do notice however that the streaking seems to occur on those lines that were less deep (the straight lines were carved a bit deeper into the clay, might that be the solution? - I thought mishima could be fairly superficial, am I wrong?) Should I try to sponge on the clear glaze instead of dipping? Also, I find that dipping gives me a bit of a thick final transparent coating, could I try and brush it on in order to obtain a thinner coating or am I just setting myself up for a huge mess? I'd very much appreciate some experienced insight on this! Many Thanks in advance! SaveSave -
Hi, I have problems trying to find the answers to this question. I want the "paint" I use to be something like China ink, but that it doesn't run and that fires well to cone 10 without loosing color. Thank you for your help! -
572DE0B2-13FC-43CA-913E-DE0144628664.jpeg
firenflux posted a gallery image in Browse Member Galleries
From the album: Sgraffito
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E6B18DED-686E-4767-A4C3-ACBDBCA5812C.jpeg
firenflux posted a gallery image in Browse Member Galleries
From the album: Sgraffito
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68160455-CD7B-4E38-ACBC-CE568A78D2C7.jpeg
firenflux posted a gallery image in Browse Member Galleries
From the album: Sgraffito
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3DE8EE9D-13A6-47ED-99F4-05AD1A106F85.jpeg
firenflux posted a gallery image in Browse Member Galleries
From the album: Sgraffito
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17791119-B954-4A33-80F7-4BA2AFA0329C.jpeg
firenflux posted a gallery image in Browse Member Galleries
From the album: Sgraffito
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Hello all : ) I just bought some cobalt oxide, I'd like to paint it directly on some leather hard stoneware vessels before bisque. Can I ask if anyone knows which percentage of cobalt to amount of water should I use for best results? Thank you!
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Hello - For many years I’ve been using Amaco’s Jet Black underglaze on white stoneware, firing to ^05/04 bisque and it’s always behaved really well. I recently started a new gallon bottle, mixed it up in a bucket really thoroughly before using. It was pretty thick, and I diluted it somewhat. I apply the underglaze to greenware in order to do sgraffito. Now I’ve started to see crazing when the bisqued ware is dampened - when sponging prior to applying clear glaze, and then much more noticeably when applying glaze (typically Amaco’s HF-9). Picture below. Although I’d already diluted the underglaze, it happened again with the next bisque. The folks at Amaco couldn’t account for it. I’ve been nervous about possible problems firing these pieces to ^5/6, which I’ve always done in the past - I don’t know if that would be risky. Any suggestions out there? Thank you!
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Porcelain grasses vase with gold lustre highlights
Celia UK posted a gallery image in Browse Member Galleries
From the album: July 2019
Thrown porcelain. Wax resist all over, carved when leather hard. Black underglaze inlay painted over and wiped back. Bisqued to 1000oC. Transparent glaze poured and dipped then fired to cone 6/7. Gold lustre applied before third firing to 780oC. -
If I could figure out how to attach the correct size photo you could see the what I’m gonna describe... Duncan Clear Satin (SN351) glaze is not running into all the incised lines after the recommended number of coats and fired to cone 06.. It looked completely covered. This has now happened a couple of times and I’m not sure what’s going wrong. The clay is Standard 528. The design was inscised then bisque fired to 06. It was then stained using Amaco velvet underglaze (V361)...allowed to dry before applying the Duncan clear glaze as per mfg. I’ve used this technique for a long time with other clay bodies and this never happens, no problems. Any idea what’s going on? Is it the clay? The glaze? My technique? The firing? I could use some help. (And how to upload the right kind and size image).
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Hi, Would it work to use a decorating slip on greenware , bisque fire it and then decorate with underglazes before clear glazing and firing? I seem to remember someone telling me that the colour of the slip would mix with the underglaze but I don't know if firing in-between would maybe help with that? The reason I'd like to do this is for the slip to be the background colour, as I've found it tends to be less patchy than underglaze for larger areas. And for the underglaze to be the design detail on top. Is that a sensible way to do it or is there a better way to achieve something like that? I'm fairly new to decorating - any advice appreciated! Thanks :)
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I am using underglaze to create designs on newsprint underneath slip to form decals to apply to greenware. I need advice on how to avoid streaking underglaze.
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Hi all Is zircopax OK to use in place of white pigment or stain? I want to make a basic white underglaze with it. I am worried about pinholing or peeling though. I want to fire to about 1150 centigrade. Any help appreciated.
