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Showing results for tags 'underglaze'.
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Hi all, Currently I work with mid-fire slip and glaze my work 'traditionally' to achieve quite muted, natural tones. I'm thinking about making some wares that I want to be BRIGHT and flat in colour - like popping, primary colours. I'm wondering what the best way to achieve this level of colour would be? In my experience using stains in glazes never seems to achieve the flatness I'm after. I would suspect a coloured slip might be the answer but again using stains only seems to result in pastels - what is the average ratio of stain to slip to achieve a full bodied -
Hi folks, Today I was working on the Wedding Jar that I had made for a nephew, and was trying to accent their lettering for names and dates. I had stamped these in, but it was not quite clear so I cleaned them up and added a stain over top thinking to do a little mishima to bring the letters up. However, due to the curved surface I lost some of the letter forms. What to do. I used a small brush after engraving the missing areas to flow the glaze in, and that worked. At the same time I decided to use the brush with a white engobe to accent the flowers of the mountain laurel I had stamped i -
I think I must have missed the firing temp and sequence of applying a clear glaze over the underglaze in Sean O'Connell's amazing clayflicks member video. Specifically I like how the black velvet underglaze dots turn blue with streaking. What brand/type of clear is used, at what temp, and do you add the clear over underglaze at the bone dry stage or after the piece has been bisque? Thank you! Would love to give this effect a try. -
Hi everyone, i’m new to making ceramics and i have two questions. First one is that is it possible to paint your ceramics before it’s bisque? Second one is that please can somebody recommend me a good brand which has underglaze paints?
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Hi guys. I`ve purchased some Underglaze powder pigments. In description is written that I can mix it with water to use like an underglaze. I mixed it with water (5g powder to 10ml water; 5g -15 ml; 5g - 20ml) and draw to bisque pots. After it dries, color is easily removable with friction. I mean, if i touch paint, it comes off. Then I mixed 5g powder to 5g clay and 20 ml water. Difference was clear. Color was well balanced and it was not easily removable. So basically, in first method, I`m mixing water and powder, in second method Slip and powder. I wonder, is any of this method w
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Hi everyone! I'm fairly new to glazing pottery, and have just unloaded a kiln full of pieces I had painted with underglaze, and applied a clear glaze over. Some pieces had been bisque fired with the underglaze already painted, and others were painted onto bisqueware, but all seem to have the same problem of the glaze avoiding areas where the underglaze is. In some places it has caused the underglaze to chip off, but mostly it's just all very rough feeling and patchy looking. There are a few pieces where the rough patches are a bit annoying but not too bad, but the majority have deeme
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Hi! Does anyone know of an underglaze, other than mayco stoke and coat, that doesn’t need a clear glaze overtop to make it food safe? -
Hi all. Can anyone please recommend some food safe, high fire, clear matte/satin glazes? I'll be using it over fired underglaze on slipcast mugs I'm working on. Amaco recommended their SM-10 (https://www.amaco.com/products/glaze-sm-10-clear?ref=2&taxon_id=284) to me, so I'm going to try that out. But I'd like to see what other people are using as well. They can be dippable, sprayable, brushable - anything. I just want to test some different products to find what I like best. Also, I understand that the matte/satin clears aren't entirely crystal clear in the way that gl
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Hi all - I'm fairly new to underglazing. I have historically glazed my pieces with a select few glazes which I brush -very rarely dipped. I use Bella's Blend from Highwater because the clay body shows off my favorite glazes. These are my go to glazes Coyote: Eggshell Coyote: Light blue Mayco: White opal (usually over the light blue) Mayco: Green opal Laguna: Turkish amber (accents) Amaco Celadon: Cherry Blossom Designer Liner: Black I'm not a fan of clear glaze over exposed clay body. I am adding a pic of a piece I made a few years ago - I -
So any tips for preventing warping on a cone 4 ( yes I mean 4 not 04 :D ) vitreous slip cast clay? It's a tall tiki form that is a little top heavy so they wants to sag/warp. I'm applying amaco velvet underglaze to the exterior that develops a slight sheen so I don't want to lay them on their side... Also has anyone tried firing amaco celedons at cone 4? I've been experimenting with some recipes but they are coming out more opaque and milky. Kinda in a crunch!
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Hey guys! I'm looking to make a sink basin for my bathroom in the upcoming months. I want to use Standard Ceramics 266 Dark Brown Clay with a turquoise/seafoam glaze on the interior while leaving the exterior bare. Attached is an idea of what I would like to do. I have never used a dark clay before, so I don't have experience to work off of and can't make test tiles until it is safe to use the studio again. Would coating the inside of the clay with a white underglaze cause the blue glaze to stand out more? Does anyone have a good glaze suggestion that stands out and reacts well to this clay? O
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Morning! I am looking to try a third-firing technique for added layers and details. Should I use an underglaze like amaco velvet OR an Engobe. I know they are very similar but what would be the difference in this situation? Thanks!
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I want to try my hand with trailing underglazes. know I have to play around to find what works best for what I'm trying to achieve. As a starter, should I use the underglaze full strength straight from the bottle, thin it with water, or mix it with a clear glaze? I plan on covering the work with clear glaze and I fire to cone 6
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Hi everyone! I'm trying to find out what combination of Lustre glazes this person used in order to try an recreate it on a vase. This person won't give out their recipe and I totally understand why but it's for my own curiosity and not to sell any products. What are your thoughts on this combination? https://www.instagram.com/p/B5ANbf6AU_4/?igshid=vbzq2wap6n2u
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Hi! I'm trying to make Holly´s Underglaze which needs 33.3% of Ferro Frit 3124, sadly here in my country -Mexico- that specific Frit is unavailable, but I can get Ferro 3134 and by reading Digitalfire I realized that the biggest difference is the lack of alumina, so I was thinking about increasing the amount of EPK Kaolin in the recipe and was wondering if you might have any kind of suggestion of how to modify the percentage of Kaolin or even another approach to making a proper substitution by using the 3134, I know this is a matter of trial and error but I'm hoping to decrease the error
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I have two pieces and am applying underglaze on top of glaze. Will it work? First piece is Laguna Ward's Red Cone 06 earthenware with cone 06 clear glaze (already fired.) Trying to fix something, so I added some underglaze and plan to add more cone 06 clear glaze. Do you recommend two firings -- one for the new underglaze, one for the additional clear glaze? Second piece: Laguna White B-Mix Cone 10 with cone 6 clear glaze (already fired.) Again, trying to fix something, so I added underglaze and plan to add Cone 6 clear glaze to the new underglazed bits. Do you recommend two fi -
I started pottery a bit over a year ago and recently begun exploring decorative techniques. I tried some underglaze inlay on a greenware piece, carving out decorative lines on a small waxed porcelain cup, then painting the whole thing with blue underglaze, and wiping off the excess underglaze. I bisque fired the piece, then dipped it in transparent glaze and fired it again. The final cup has streaky underglaze, I don't understand why since the underglaze was bisque fired before I applied the final glaze? (I'll attach a picture, please note it's just a test piece I do notice however that -
Hi, I have problems trying to find the answers to this question. I want the "paint" I use to be something like China ink, but that it doesn't run and that fires well to cone 10 without loosing color. Thank you for your help! -
572DE0B2-13FC-43CA-913E-DE0144628664.jpeg
firenflux posted a gallery image in Browse Member Galleries
From the album: Sgraffito
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E6B18DED-686E-4767-A4C3-ACBDBCA5812C.jpeg
firenflux posted a gallery image in Browse Member Galleries
From the album: Sgraffito
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68160455-CD7B-4E38-ACBC-CE568A78D2C7.jpeg
firenflux posted a gallery image in Browse Member Galleries
From the album: Sgraffito
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3DE8EE9D-13A6-47ED-99F4-05AD1A106F85.jpeg
firenflux posted a gallery image in Browse Member Galleries
From the album: Sgraffito
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17791119-B954-4A33-80F7-4BA2AFA0329C.jpeg
firenflux posted a gallery image in Browse Member Galleries
From the album: Sgraffito
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Hello all : ) I just bought some cobalt oxide, I'd like to paint it directly on some leather hard stoneware vessels before bisque. Can I ask if anyone knows which percentage of cobalt to amount of water should I use for best results? Thank you!
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Hello - For many years I’ve been using Amaco’s Jet Black underglaze on white stoneware, firing to ^05/04 bisque and it’s always behaved really well. I recently started a new gallon bottle, mixed it up in a bucket really thoroughly before using. It was pretty thick, and I diluted it somewhat. I apply the underglaze to greenware in order to do sgraffito. Now I’ve started to see crazing when the bisqued ware is dampened - when sponging prior to applying clear glaze, and then much more noticeably when applying glaze (typically Amaco’s HF-9). Picture below. Although I’d already diluted the und
