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Everything posted by Crusty

  1. makes sense and less work. saves me a little money , I like that.. I'll just set it up and throw a flame in it.
  2. Liambesaw ,, I thought the rigidizer took care of the loose fibre problem? with this kiln, it can be modified any way but I'm thinking inside as I'm not totally sure on the brick.. I'm assuming its K23 but I really do not know for sure.. it was a 37 amp 8700 .. I know they used alot of different brick types in those kilns.. Bill, thanks I'll check that out.
  3. I picked up a old 1980s J.W. Good kiln made here in Indiana.. not alot of info out there on these kilns as their out of buisness now.. size is 23 X 22 .. took me 2 hrs to grind off all the Kiln wash .. its actually in decent shape considering its age... But, the top needs new hi temp mortar between the bricks. is there a brand you trust more than others or are they all pretty much the same? maybe a recipe that will work? im also thinking of putting in a layer of 2600 F blanket on the inside. the kiln has alot of factory holes in it and it is a section style .. im thinking the blanket will help keep unwanted air out and help protect the brick .. so my question here is - do i need to use a rigidizer on it or can i just use some of the joint mortar mix to hold it in place ? Bill Kielb sent me a pretty good design to follow , Thanks Bill.. the design calls for 2'' of open floor space for the downdraft into the flue opening.. im going to add a layer of soft brick to the bottom to give me that 2'' without losing it.. so the kiln will actually be 21 wide since im adding the blanket and 24 tall...
  4. Thanks.. i have been everywhere but instagram ..
  5. Build it. concrete block and metal are safe flame retardant materials... Im in Louisville Ky, crazy weather lol... we have our kiln in the basement. IMO if the kiln has been gone through by a tech and its ok, set your basement up.. you will save money compared to building a new shed..basement has concrete floor and walls , use hardy backer for a ceiling over the kiln.. vent it and your good..
  6. Thanks Marc and Neil. I have been doing some extra research and contacted Ward with CF size and a 2 burner system.. He said the kiln must be sealed up pretty good and keep shelves at least 2.5 to 3 inches from kiln walls for best air flow. I think 15'' like neil suggested ill be perfect, also do not over pack the kiln...Out side chimney is best but did not give a diameter or stack height.. so i need to figure that out.. so the plan rite now is to kill all the angles in the octagon shape by putting a layer of cerawool in and that should help with air leaks and seal it up better... 2 Floor burners possibly 3 as i would rather be over powered than under.. "i see alot of conversions have trouble raising temp after 1500F when they go into reduction, maybe a extra burner will help?
  7. alot of the newer controllers will slow down around 900 F as organics start to burn off there.. i am not fimiliar with the ramp master 2 but i do see a Fast Bisque and a Slow bisque, i would not program a new bisque setting unless i was using a super gassy clay body "Black mountain" ... As long as you do not see a "error" pop up, i would say its ok. time will fluctuate due to load volume.. in a elementary school setting, i would assume they are some heavy pots though..
  8. we found a used kiln that would be perfect for a gas conversion ''downdraft''.. it is 23.5 in wide and 22 tall 3 sections - im pretty sure thats close to 5 CF which is a little bigger than the J 230 we have now.. i like the design of the Geil gas kilns , seems like that is the best way to go.. i see alot of conversions being heated from the bottom on the side but im not a fan of that as there tends to be so much wasted space or am i missing something and not thinking this through fully? what about heating from the top section on the side since its a downdraft? i plan on using a Ward venturi type burner or 2 .. so if i heat from the bottom i would need a 2.5 to 3 inch hole and if i use 2 burners that would double .. if i do a burner on the side i lose 3 in plus i would have to redirect the heat upward and build a chimney flue inside "Simon Leach" style which im not sure that is best ... i know both ways work but which way is better for reduction ? i have been watching a lot of videos on conversions and the results vary quite a bit.. the folks using bottom burners seem to do better but their kilns seem to be mostly custom built arch tops and a lot bigger .. Chimney- i want it outside the kiln to save as much internal space as possible. a 6ft tall chimney seems to be standard on conversions for some reason.. i could use some help with this as all of the chimney holes are different sizes. i have a full roll of cerawool in the basement, i could use that with some chicken wire or something to help hold a form... it will be outdoors. thanks for any help and advice..
  9. lol funny, we got the Clay Boss and 2 weeks later picked up a brand spankin new J-230 18x27 L&L manual kiln still wrapped up and on the pallet with kiln shelf kit . Plus a used Shimpo Velocity that was and still is in good shape for $300.00 .. you talk about 2 happy potters doing a little dance ...
  10. still playing around. My order did not get on the transfer today, kind of bummed about that.. not to mention they sold me stuff that was out of stock.. I did use a Underglaze over the SS , Black on White looks pretty good.. I used the torch to dry the SS and UG .. i used slip on the inside of the pot and when it started to tighten up i added water with a sponge.. it was pretty firm but it did move, i cant believe how thin you can get with this stuff...
  11. I swoosh it really fast in a bucket of water.. no problems at all with it hardening up as long as i do it rite after im done with it.
  12. Yes, i actually seen the picture and notice it looked "off" .. sometimes i put them in while wet, sometimes i use a small carving loop tool my wife got for me... i looked in your albums, the color you have on those big leaf designed platters is nice.. like a Tan maybe? i want a tan. soft yellow color to use..
  13. I like making mugs,vases in the 2 to 3 lb range and large bowls. i make some other things to but mostly those 3..
  14. I'll check them out old lady. Thanks Min. so far we been using just SS over the form. we will try that to.. my photos must be to big, I'll try to resize them..
  15. Oldlady- we just ordered all of our slip ingredients and some colorants. we want to work with slips for a while .. we also seen where folks are making a slip and putting the SS into the slip but we are not sure on the amount.. we will have to work that out.. liambesaw- One thing i have noticed about the torch is, if i get it to hot and steam comes out of the top i normally have pot cracking or the base will torque off the bat.. ill sponge the inside and give it a shot,Thanks.. we are thinking of using slips and a clear and a Celedon glaze and see how it looks.. Min, i like that pot, pots like that is something we want to make.. were very open to ideas - were experimenting , we do not have any finished pots yet. Bone dry and have some still drying out.. we plan on a bisque next week.. i recently had to grind my kiln shelves and i still need to put kiln wash on them.. 1# of Crocus martis red- cobalt carbonate- 5# copper carbonate - Rutile /some Darvan 7 as well... making a bunch of test tiles today on the wheel.. its going to take some testing ...
  16. I tried it on 1 pot. I love the stuff.. I cant stop using it now, trying different ways to apply and dry it to see the results.. i have been adding texture under and carving over it as well.. its just fun to explore as you dont know what your going to get.. you know its going to crack but you do not know how, thin,thick,deep,shallow,vertical,horizontal , small or large or all of them combined.. There have been some results that i have wanted to recreate but i think its going to be very hard to do.. im thinking it was the thickness of the clay wall more than the Silicate or maybe how it was dried. i been drying them 3 ways. Natural,Torch and Heat gun.. I have had some bad results as well. I threw a 5 lb tall cylinder and left the wall pretty thick.. i got about half way through forming it and it cracked all the way through.. Sad part is the pattern i was getting was very stunning and i loved it.. If you have any advice or want to post pictures of pots you have made with S. Silicate, i would love to see them..
  17. Pilchers Slip ^06-10 Ball Clay 25 EPK 25 Flint-Silica 12,5 Nepheline Syenite 12.5 100 Now for the colorants to make the white. you need to run a line test from probably 1 to 5% but 5 is the base recipe for the white.. Zircopax - 5.0 frit 3124 - 5.0 Now for the Blue- another line test needed to get the softness you like.. i would do .5 increments if it were me but you do it how you want.. Cobalt Carbonate at 2% is 2.0 line test .5 - 1 - 1.5- 2- 2.5- 3- 3.5 etc you can do this all in 1 firing so take your time .. you can even run the line test at a .1 rate.. .01-,02-,03-.04-.05 etc .. go watch John Britt on YouTube, i have learned alot from him in a really short amount of time...
  18. I use Amaco and Mayco^6 stoneware glazes.. Amaco you need 2-3 coats of each glaze but i like to use 3 coats of base glaze and 3 of the top glaze... if you want something that really pops use Mayco bright green and cinnabar.. i doubt they have used this one as the bright green is not a common layering glaze. dont get stuck on just the PC glazes, you can layer all the celedons under and over a PC glaze as well.. opens up a whole new color chart..I use a speckled clay made by Kentucky Mudworks, its a white clay base.. the only clay color i did not like was red clay bodies, i tried 2 of them and the colors were just darker and maybe even dull.. they didnt pop much at all.. https://www.amaco.com/glazes-and-underglazes/layering#bottom_glaze=273&page=2 click on the picture you like- it tells you how many coats.. 3-3 is pretty common but there are some that are runny like salt buff and seaweed that may be 2..
  19. mine is a yellow green color.. seems to be working just fine.. went slow to 250 then did a hold at 975 .. it's at 1455 now.
  20. i finally got the kiln back up and going.. did a break in on the coils and shes ready for tomorrows bisque.. installed the Pyrometer and made sure it was working properly.. the only thing i do not like about it is, it shuts itself off after about 10 minutes and i have to turn it back on ...
  21. yes , pressure washer , all kinds of chemicals and a scrubby on a broom stick... took for ever, gotta do what ya gotta do LOL
  22. Pine around here is a no no,LOL knowone will cut it - I did see some folks using it along with other woods and their pots were nice.. .
  23. White Oak, Maple, Blue Beech aka Ironwood,Ash... if i were to fire a wood kiln those woods would be used.. all are tight grain, low sap, long burning and you will use less of those woods compared to any soft wood.. soft woods like pine will darken your pots due to the high sap content.. the soot produced by pine is the nastiest and hardest to clean off of a glass door.. i scrubbed my grand parents for hours trying to get it off, last time they ever burnt Pine.. so no matter what stage your in its going to stick to your pots,its in the air as it burns... i think i would want the air as clean as possible..
  24. https://www.ekmmetering.com/collections/electric-meters-kwh-meters/products/ekm-omnimeter-i-v3 has anyone used one of these ?
  25. yea the electric company pro rated my bill the month before due to my dogs being out when the meter man was here, our meter is in our back yard.. plus our elements were shot and im sure it added to the bill as well...
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