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Crusty

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Everything posted by Crusty

  1. Thanks Min, ill send him those links.. the pots he showed me were all thrown , im not really set up for slab work... im in the middle of redesigning my basement studio.. my largest table has to be moved and im putting up 2x4s to build a new drying area thats vertical.. i would love to have a nice slab roller though "dreaming out loud" ..
  2. im going to throw a few practice pieces today... the roller and stamping is pretty easy , i have done them before.. its the spacing and application of the carve , ill have to figure that out.. if i cant do it to his satisfaction, then of course its not gonna happen.. Denice- i have to try before i simply decline, learning is what im here for.. thats what makes me be a better potter.. the carving is where im weak..
  3. how would you put the design in? carve,stamp,slip trailing ? i am talking with a guy who wants a few in this style.. carving is not really up my alley but if i could make a template to follow i guess i could pull it off.. i like making textured pots but my style is very loose and free flowing.. pictures of the style- no names were involved with the pots. hats off and respect to the potter/s who made these..
  4. For me its simply being creative. i dont care if its clay,oil paint, latex , charcoal.. if im not creating, im not happy inside.. I make functional wares because i love the idea of people using them in their daily life.. i seen a post about the form or forms being hard to create or recreate as these have been around for so long now.. yea that may be true but how about the glaze's.. all the layering that can be done.. The Glazes are endless.. a person can use the same form and use different glazes etc. for years n years and still be creative.. if someone wants a new area to dabble in, i made Marine Ceramics for reef tanks.. create the forms and bisque fire only-Done.. very good biological filter- the price for live rock vs the price of bisque, you will make a profit..
  5. something that will go along with what Neil said.. Make some cutting sticks.. take 2 square sticks about 1 inch square and mark them off like a rule .. cut notches in them so your wire cutting tool can fit and be pulled through the clay, then move up to next measurement you want and pull through clay again etc. its fast and easy , works very well ..
  6. I live and die by Orton cones.. Manual kiln I have lol... I like what you have so far, very interesting to see how small changes in the recipe affects the final outcome of the color... I am a huge Temmoku fan as well as Albany slip... i like to layer them together as well , get some interesting results.. Very feathery ... Our plans as of now are to get a smaller kiln to test with and then get into making our own glazes... Our bigger kiln will be a bisque kiln or maybe convert it to gas... we just got a price hike from our electric company... UGH
  7. This thread just wont die... PC is some fun glaze to experiment with.. It gets real fun when layering with other companies glazes... If your PC glazes have batch numbers on them, you have the newer glaze.. If it does not have them you may want to buy some amaco gum to add to your blues when layering. nothing to do with color , it just helps them "stick" better... Celadons can hang better than Michael Jordon.. I have poured it on the inside of bowls really thick and the color just deepens... I actually like the Celadons better..
  8. I threw a very nice 7lb bowl the other day.. Trimmed it and gave it a super sweet foot, my best ever... Then i chattered it and gave it some seperation with a top and bottom line... I put some time in on this baby... I put it on the bottom shelf as the others were full.. I came down the steps and looked at it and about fell over dead.. It had a pretty nice chunk out of it and teeth marks to go with it.. I dont know which dog took a bite out of it as we have 4 ... They all munch on clay bits but this is the first time one has decided to take a chunk ... No more pots on bottom shelf !!!!
  9. I been using a circle shaped coil cutter .. I pull it through the clay, then shape it with a metal rib by pulling it over the coil.. then flip it and do the other side and i trim it to the width i need... when i get to this point it kinda looks like a tapered railroad spike, then its ready for water and pulling... its pretty easy, im probably cheating lol but, i like the outcome...
  10. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=hvlp+spray+gun
    1. Crusty

      Crusty

      on Sale til sunday 1/10 HVLP spray guns

       

    2. Marcia Selsor

      Marcia Selsor

      those spray guns are great. Just like Geil's. The HVLP unit I got previously was a gun made for the compressor. Basically for paint.

       

    3. Rae Reich

      Rae Reich

      Just noticed the Spray Gun Liners on the bottom of that page. Anyone ever try those with glazes?

  11. I used to spray epoxy paint, respirator required or death by chemical hardening of the lungs.... a clean shaved face is a must to pass a smoke test... Get the absolute best you can afford, even if you have to save up to purchase it... Its the most important piece of equipment you will ever own... I am fond of a full face respirator just because accidents happen and you dont want anything in your eyes as well as your lungs or facial skin "pores etc."
  12. 2016 I really want to get our basement studio running more efficiently.. I am going to get our Raku kiln built ... I am going to try some alternative firings this year and learn all i can ... Try to set up at all the local festivals and art shows that our schedule allows... Make more contacts locally .... Make better large bowls...
  13. Tebeten style black pots;; thats the video on youtube i ran across that sparked some interest... They use a low fire clay fired with wood then covered with ash and sawdust which creates the carbon black color. Then they use a sealant type glaze on the inside of the pots, im not doing their method of glazing... dont trust it... Here is my idea - using a cone 6 clay, Bisque the pot to 04 - wood fire pot and put in reduction for the carbon black color- then glaze the pot clear and fire to cone 6 ... Which led to my question- Would this be food safe pottery considering the glaze is food safe? Thanks for any help... Jim
  14. We have 2 of the ST-4's like Pres posted... They are great, good seat, very adjustable (up-down - pivot seat), stable!!! One thing you might want to do when throwing is find something to sit your lazy foot on, (the foot not controlling the speed controller) .. I think it helps with ergonomics if both of my feet are at the same angle.. I hurt my back years ago and was very stressed about getting a chair, I have had no pain what so ever since we purchased these... I love them... Good Luck and have fun...
  15. A lot of people use Vinegar in different ways. I keep it simple, i use a toothbrush and water. I rub the brush where i need to attach and it makes slip for me.. Im not sure about WD40- it might give you trouble if you under glaze the piece when green... There is a lady that i know that does mould work, she just dampens the mould with a sponge before she uses it.. I would assume it would be safest to bisque it first so the oils can burn out.. I dont think i would use it myself, most clay related materials use water or water based materials..
  16. Wheeeeeeek !!! Sorry this happened... That is so very odd... I would think pinholes before bigger blisters with a some blue glazes... Usually the more Maganese you have the more likely it is to blister... I had a Black clay that was loaded with Mag. wow that body gave me fits until i let it set long enough in the bisque to burn it off.. I think Joe told me about that? not sure... Pinholes can be fixed pretty easy, just down fire it to let it cool slower... I have had blue glazes and some glazes i applied to thick pinhole ... we call em moon art LOL...
  17. Thanks everyone.. Its been a busy around here but things are finally slowing down to a more normal pace...
  18. Finally, all moved in the new house.. Got the basement ready or at least able to start making pots again.. I never thought it would take this long..I did start a new job in the mean time, i really like it and i get more time off and make more $$$$ woot woot... Had to update our electric service and run proper electric to the kiln..Built a 12X16 covered deck in the back with a nice sized fire pit where we can do some wood/raku firings... Had to make a few minor repairs to the homestead then of course get past the holidays... We now have a pretty good start on a place where we can be happy and make different styles of pottery.. Started throwing pots last week and like they say, its like riding a bike... One thing i noticed is that i am finding my balance.. Im not in a hurry to make a certain number of pots or to make the perfect pot.. I still stay with the normal "rules" so to speak but if something is a tad off here or there it dont bother me as much and i just go with it... I am finding a controlled looseness that i really enjoy... I can throw 20 of the same form and have the same dimensions yet no two are the same..Reminds me of Impressionism in paintings...
  19. They look Great Bro. Yes, this forum is such a great place to learn from.. I think the people here are hands down the best you can find anywhere.. I have always had honest responses to my questions, I would rather have honesty than have someone worried about how i might feel... Your pots are looking really good, you should be very proud and im glad to see you doing good... Keep up the good work... Looks like you are finding your nitche...
  20. 1515art yep and a product simply called Rigidizer that goes on after its glued in place... Thanks.. Well i was hoping it would be easy but it sounds like it might not be worth the effort... The reason is for a slower cooling time.I know i can down fire but with manual controls it just means less sleep lol... I do not like to fire unless i am awake,i guess i just feel safer. I should fire it a few times in the new room which is smaller 10X10 with concrete walls... maybe that in itself will be enough... I still need to drop the ceiling a little bit to clear some pipes and put up some concrete backer board or something... thanks for the help ...
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