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Found 11 results

  1. Hello everyone, I've started dabbling in pottery about three years ago, making bonsai pots. This fits with another hobby of mine, you can guess which :). Point is, after firing my works with some acquaintances, I've decided that my own kiln is a must in order to really progress in the craft. The problem is that I my backwater location the chances of buying a second hand one are next to none, and I can't really justify spending almost $2500 for a new one. So I came up with the idea of actually building one from scratch. Yes, I know it's hard, yes, I know it can be dangerous but I'm t
  2. Hello everyone, I have bought a second-hand electric Rohde 5024 Kiln (230V) and a TR 305 controller. I have done only 2 biscuit firing at 950C and noticed the pieces were almost vitrified; our mocal clay is rich in iron oxide. I recently did a slow glaze firing at 900C and my work melted down, some kiln shelves are distorted and even broken by the heat. The kiln electric plug is stick to the wall socket.Do you have an idea of what has happened? The whole situation is devastating as I live in West Africa and do not have potters, technicians or manufacturers who know ab
  3. I have a new Bentrup TC88 controller with no English instructions Has anyone got a link
  4. This may be best answered by Neil...but others are welcome to chime in. I have 2 old Cress kilns, a B-23-H ^6 and an FX-23-P ^10. The latter is a recent acquisition. I've also bought an Orton Auto-Fire digital controller. Where should I drill the hole for the temperature probe on each of these kilns? My guess would be in the upper third of the kiln rather than the center. The ^10 kiln has a hole in the outer housing in the center from top to bottom. No holes in the firebrick on the inside. I ultimately plan on selling the ^6 kiln after doing a ^6 firing and then sticking with the ^10 kiln f
  5. My controller does not have a preheat programme. What ramp would I set to get an equivalent? I can programme this onto the beginning of the programmes I have entered. Not having any real trouble without it but occasionally I fire thicker handmade pieces and I do glaze load and fire on the same day.
  6. I consistently fire about a half cone cooler in the top and bottom of my Olympic 2327HE single zone kiln, Watching loading and shelf spacing helps but doesn’t eliminate the situation. I was wondering if it’s possible to simply add two new T/Cs and split the relay outputs to convert the Bartlett Controller to three zone control. As far as I can determine the actual controller board is standard and determines zone control based on how T/Cs are connected. Any help would be appreciated. Yes, I know this voids the warrenties.
  7. Three questions: (1) The manual (yes, actually read & referenced) for my L&L Easy Fire kiln, plus an Orton Tips sheet, say to have the vent (Vent Sure) running continuously throughout the firing. Both specify to NOT open any peep holes. OK...but then how do I see my witness cones? And if the answer is in front of my nose somewhere, please be gentle as you chuckle! (2) The instructions for upon firing completion say it is safe (and preferred, I gather) to turn off the kiln. It also says that the controller will continue to read out the temperature as it cools down. Well, once I
  8. My DTC 800 C controller died recently, and I'm trying to figure out the case of death. The error message I get indicates a problem with the circuit board, but suspect it may have been caused by receiving insufficient power. In the four firings I did before the controller packed up, the relays would buzz quite loudly when they were switched on, but they'd gradually become quieter as the temperature increased. The person I bought the kiln from assured me that the buzzing was normal, but after having read the trouble-shooting guide, I see that buzzing is a sign of the relays not receiving enough
  9. Hi all, I haven't been able to find any firing instructions for my old AIM kiln. Even the folks at AIM said they didn't have any . So I'm left with power dials that go from 1 to 10, and no idea how that translates into temperature. I'd like to be able to test this kiln without spending money on a temperature gauge/controller only to discover that what I really need is a new kiln. I have a bunch of different low fire cones, and was thinking of using them as a visual guide for reaching temperatures, but the more I think about it the more I imagine endless permutations of dial-adjustments m
  10. I am hoping that Neil Estrick might comment about my recent experience with a Skutt KM-1 wall mounted controller, as well as anyone else who may have an opinion about this incident, and if I should be concerned about using the controller for my larger kiln. I bought a new Skutt KM-1 wall-mounted controller in order to automate firing of a couple of electric kilns I have. One is a medium size older Knight, maybe 4-5 cubic feet, and the other is an Olympic 25 Oval, over 12 cubic feet. The power draw is stated to be 48 amp, and the recommended breaker size for the Olympic is 60 amps. The K
  11. Hello, I have a situation that I'm hoping someone out there can help with. I have an Evenheat PF2329 electric kiln. This kiln has the Perfect Fire, model DTP56DC-E controller. There are three 187-36B600 mechanical relays. There is a single thermocouple. So, my issue is that the controller, after a single test firing a month ago, no longer appears to be recieving power. I have inspected the connections on the back of the panel and they seem to be good. However there is a bit of corrosion on some of the boards components and capacitors. The physical condition of the kiln is quite g
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