Roberta12

Have you explored the Digitalfire web site for information on your problem, or even downloaded their glaze calculator?  Altering a glaze is a tough situation and takes lots of understanding. If you are just getting into glaze mixing I would try finding a glaze that meets your needs without making changes. Try Glazy or Digitalfire.
 
 
best,
Pres

Just as a side note the original glaze recipe you posted in no way will make a durable glaze.

Hi Juliamary and welcome to the forum!
Do you have spyholes/ peepholes in the side of your kiln to see witness cones with? 
If not, if I was in your place, and I recently have been, I would take the time to get the controller sorted out or replaced if necessary. It's a bit like driving a car with the windscreen covered up otherwise.

I too would be very interested in such anti-gravity information, lol!

Those rubber mats they cover the inside of the capsule would probably help,   I get mine at Walmart.   Maybe my husbands cousin  has some in his garage,  he retired about ten years ago.   He was head of the Space Shuttle program and president of General Dynamics.  Has to have some cool things tuck away.     Denice

You just need a few trips to the space station or book some flights on the Virgin Galactic space line.

It’s also helpful to remember that whether you’re using stains or oxides, you’re only adding around 10% or less by dry weight to a given recipe. So if you’re only mixing up a 1 kg (dry materials) batch of slip, you’re adding 100g or less of the given oxide. With powerful colourants like cobalt oxide, 10g or .1% in that one kilo is enough to get a very solid colour. The 10% number would be for some of the lighter coloured stains. Many of the darker blues, greens, black, etc I’d start at 3-5% and see if that gives you the intensity you want. 

In regards to the "What you see is what you get" with stains I have to respectfully disagree. For example if you put a chrome tin red stain in a slip it won't turn out red (even in huge amounts) because those chome tin pink or red or purple stains need low alumina plus quite high calcium to work.  Since slips are naturally high in alumina you are going to loose the colour. Matching the requirements of the stain to the slip or glaze can make a big difference in how the colours turn out. Many stains are not fussy about what the chem of the slip or glaze etc is but there are some picky ones.

For the help with the underglaze question. Now, does anyone have a source for an "anti gravity glaze or clay" so when I drop a form it wouldn't  hit the floor and break...........
Again thanks.
Graybeard
 
 
 
 

FreeVee via Amazon
I'm not remembering if that's how we watched it...

The only thing I would add, is if you want a defined line between different colours of underglaze AND are going to brush on the clear glaze, we have better results with  firing before brushing on the glaze.

I have used underglaze both ways.  I agree with @Bill Kielb some clear glazes work better than others over underglaze.  Bisque firing the underglaze first helps with smudging and somehow "setting" the color but I have not really had a bad result putting underglaze on bisque, then clear then firing.  For me, the key seems to be the clear glaze.  

I have used underglaze both ways.  I agree with @Bill Kielb some clear glazes work better than others over underglaze.  Bisque firing the underglaze first helps with smudging and somehow "setting" the color but I have not really had a bad result putting underglaze on bisque, then clear then firing.  For me, the key seems to be the clear glaze.  

Bracker's Good Earth Clays in Kansas is offering grants to local schools. Last year grants were available nationwide in the US, this year they are focusing on local school art programs. "We service most of Kansas & Nebraska, about half of Missouri, Iowa, Oklahoma and Arkansas, and a bit of Illinois."   from the link below, maybe somebody here could befit their school art program. (I am not affiliated in any way with Bracker's, I just get their emails which is where I saw this)
https://us10.campaign-archive.com/?u=ff0b391198e5566d2026a0bfe&id=5ff6d9e137

I routinely do both, however easiest to bisque fire the underglaze for the ease of handeling while completing the decoration. I spray most of my glazes so really this poses less of a concern. What I have found, regardless of the application the underglaze and overglaze really need to be tested together. Some combinations shift color, some overglaze has a bit of difficulty melting properly over various colors and makes of underglaze. It does not sound like you have time to test, but it is really the only way in my view to get an expected result. We spent a whole summer testing and finally made our own clear gloss and matte that melted well over various colors, thicknesses and brands so our brush artists could paint, blend, shade in a normal fashion without too much worry.

Hi and welcome to the forum! 
I’d wait for some more sparky forum members to chime in to be sure, but Skutt and L and L kiln’s websites both recommend against GFCI because kiln brick’s electrical resistance reduces with heat, which can indeed trip a GFCI at the wrong time. ConeArt recommends having most models direct wired into the electrical box, and suggests consulting a licensed electrician who knows kilns. (Not all electricians are familiar: my own journeyman cousin wouldn’t touch my install because it wasn’t his area of expertise.)
Edited to add: I’m shifting this thread to the Equipment Use and Repair section so it gets more eyes on it. 

Different types of plaster are available for ceramics. General purpose good quality plaster for throwing on and making wedging tables or drying surfaces is called #1 Pottery Plaster. Some people prefer to make throwing batts from Hydrostone which is a stronger plaster than #1 Pottery Plaster but it doesn't dry out clay as quickly.
Whatever you use make sure you use the correct amount of water, it's important to the strength of the finished plaster.

My son is the chef,  I will mention it to him,  they are moving to Costa Rica in a month and putting everything in storage.  I might try using it myself,  I will have to cut it down it is too big for my oven.   I am hoping that they want to move back after a year or two,  it is a bummer not having any family.    Denice

I think a few people have suggested similar methods over the years, although I can’t remember who would have suggested selling under 2 different names for the lines. 
Most of us who make dinnerware and other functional stuff do some form of more art based work at some point, although not everyone goes with 2 separate and concurrently produced product lines. I see more jewellers and graphic artists have 2 different names for their bread and butter vs art lines like this, but it’s not unheard of. 
I think getting in with an established interior design firm with a wealthy clientele is a very good way of finding someone who can help you realize a higher price point. I can see it having some positives, in that they’ll be used to a certain set of professionalism rules, and payment timelines. I think being familiar with the business and their reputation both on the client and vendor end is a really smart idea. 

Someone on this board once gave me the idea of having a "gallery" line in addition to my production line.  I've sold a few higher priced pieces since that time.   For me that's $200 - $450.   Ok, I am going with this interior designer in Atlanta.    They will just put my pieces in houses they do and add the price, itemized.   The deal is that I will do hand built only for them.   At the moment, they only want 2 colors, both white matte with accent colors.    Currently they get a 30% discount from places like Restoration Hardware.    They are just adding one piece per house, and are taking a 30% commission, at a price that is way way above what I would ever mark my items here.   I'll post a picture of the first sale I made.   I picked Atlanta because my family travels to Atlanta at least once a month.     I've leaving 4 or 5 pieces with them and they will send me a check upon sale.    They just mailed me a check for this item (check to avoid cc fees) and it will be delivered when someone goes to Atlanta.    I'm confident this is a trustworthy source, due to the houses I've been in that they have done.  I have agreed to just sign the items Sharon A. Grimes (no Dirt Roads).   And I will do a small bio poster to put with the work and a website SharonAGrimesartist.com for their exclusive promotion.   I will refer all calls to them.    Let me go take a picture.

Thanks Roberta!

If you only need a few of these circles or you don’t want to order a bunch of stuff, you can also make a poor man’s sticker.  Lay strips of masking tape onto a piece of wax paper and cut out your desired shape. Peel the shape off the wax paper backing and use as you would masking tape. 

Hoping to renovate the bath/shower in our main bathroom. I really want to be rid of some ugly tile and 1970s blue bathtub! Depends on how much I can bring in from the farmer’s market though.
Other than that, I think we’ll spend a week camping out in BC at a spot we know and love to go to every year.  Other than that, I think we’re just going to lay low a bit. We’ve had a crazy spring with family events and husband’s work travel. 

I haven't taken a vacation since before the pandemic and I'm not up for flying anywhere. What I do is travel by myself or w/a friend, on day trips where there's not tons of people. I may go to the ocean along NH or ME, for a couple of days, off season.
This summer, my primary plan is to use the time to accomplish two things.  One, I will sell an entire room-full of good quality "yard sale" type items. That is actually a lot of work, as it all goes online-not allowed to hold sales where I live.  Two, I will streamline my studio .  There's a good bit of materials, tools, supplies, equipment, the wheel, etc. that I will sell (will just do handbuilding).  I am  freeing up space so I can get back to painting/other media--so that counts as non-ceramics LOL. 

I decided a couple of days ago it is time to get started on rejuvenating  our house.   The carpet in the office is worn out and the misc. furniture is old and was old when we bought it  We spent the last two days looking for real wood flooring to match the wood in the rest of the house.   No more carpet,   we think we found it today now all we have to do is get the samples.  The rest of the carpeted areas will get new floor and paint this fall.  I have to shop now for office furniture and a sofa,  our old furniture will be donated.   Denice