neilestrick

The problem for me is when mixing chrome-tin pinks for my students. I have 7 and 10 gallon buckets in my studio, which means anywhere from 1.3-2 pounds per bucket and that gets expensive pretty fast even with just two colors. If it was just for me I wouldn't care at all. It would take a lot for me to consider a glaze to be too expensive for my own work.

The posts must align vertically all the way from the top of the kiln to the floor. The shelf may warp or crack if a post is sitting on the shelf but is not supported in the same spot below the shelf. You can usually get away with it if there's only one shelf above, or if you're putting in a quarter shelf, but I would not expect a shelf at the very bottom to carry the weight of multiple shelves above it without a post aligning underneath. You can't tripod the full shelf and then have 4 posts sitting on top of it, because only 1 post would align and the unsupported areas would carry most of the weight.

You have to use 4 posts under the full shelf so they line up with the half shelf posts. This is the problem. With 4 posts there's a good chance the shelf will rock, leaving one post not making contact and putting a lot of stress on the shelf there, resulting in cracking or warping. I really don't understand using a full shelf on the bottom and the rest half, but it's the way many people think it should be done. There's no benefit to having a full shelf on the bottom.

I'd ask her what cone she's fired it to.

I prefer Corelite. They're about the same price and last longer.

Yes, you just have to make sure they're sitting evenly. A waster slab across the joint is also helpful.

The GT400 is a good wheel for most people. It'll handle the vast majority of what most potters make, especially students.

Looks more like a glass kiln than a pottery kiln. Like Mark said, photos of the inside would help, as well as the dimensions of the interior.

I don't think you can just put a block of clay into a container and suck the air out of it. The clay is likely much too dense for that. When clay goes through a pugmill vacuum chamber it's being moved around and cut up via the auger, or in the case of larger industrial 2 stage puggers, it's cut into small bits as it enters the vacuum chamber, then moved out via an auger.

I prefer half shelves. More flexibility, easier loading, and half shelves tend to last longer. Posting gets awkward when using both full and half, because you end up having to use 4 posts on a full shelf and they don't always sit evenly, which puts a lot of stress on them.

@HenryBurlingame I own 8 of the 1/3 hp models and 1 of the 1/2hp models. I cannot tell the difference unless I have something really, really, really big on the wheel. I've centered 25 pounds on the 1/3hp models just fine. They can handle anything a Brent CXC can handle because they have a ton of torque despite the lower hp rating. As for the controllers, there are 5 or 6 different adjustments that can be made in the Skutt controller, such as IR Comp, top speed, low speed and a couple others, so you can dial in the pedal exactly how you want it. If you like IR Comp then you can turn it up. It's there, they just turn it off at the factory. Brent only has top and bottom speed. The Skutt pedal also has a much longer travel, which gives you better control. Skutt parts will be cheaper, although you shouldn't need any parts for either brand for a long, long time. I don't know what changes they made with the new Red line, but they still offer the SSX drive, so it doesn't sound like they changed much.

I've seen it done both ways, and it totally depends on the kiln and how it was designed. Often the flue opening is tall enough that putting the shelf up high enough to be above it isn't possible and wastes too much space. In that case I would leave the bottom shelf a couple inches from the back wall. If you have a flue channel in the floor of the kiln, so that the bottom shelf can be above the flue opening without wasting space, then I would first try it with the shelf against the back wall and see how it goes. In general, I think the target bricks and the bag wall height are going to have more of an effect on performance than the orientation of the bottom shelf.

Isn't that pretty gritty, though? I think the 60 means 60 mesh grog/sand?

I'm not familiar with Laguna bodies. Is that the only brand you have available near you? Is vitrification and glaze fit important to you, or do you prefer a cone 10 body so it's more forgiving? I assume you want white, not brown, since you were using BMix?

Hi @Wtimmins What upgrade are you referring to? How many thermocouples does the kiln have? Make sure it's set for the correct number of thermocouples. Does it take the program ok, and how long does it fire and how hot does it get before you get the LAG error code?