Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About RobS

  • Rank
  • Birthday December 11

Profile Information

  • Location
    Southern Tier NY
  1. HI there, Standard Ceramic has a newer clay, #762, which they bill as kitchenware. After initial glaze fit testing, I made a couple of stove top pots and am using them for an extended test. So far, the clay body and glazes are taking the abuse on a gas stove. I don't know if I'd ever sell or give these type of pots away, but for my use at home I'm happy so far. Rob
  2. You could try Gimp. It's a free opensource program quite similar to Photoshop.
  3. Very timely thread. I too have been playing with temmoku glazes at cone 6 oxidation. I just took this pot out of the kiln over the weekend. It is a layer of modified (RIO up to 14%) Rick Malmgren's Temmoku, from CM 10/2000, with a rim dip and spatter of a second glaze on top. The second glaze contains: OM4, custer, silica, whiting and GB, with RIO, rutile and a tiny CuCo3. Fired to cone 6 in an electric kiln and slow cooled from 1925-1400'F @ 100'/hr. It breaks more of an amber honey color not as red as you might want, but the yellow crystals are amazing. Usually I see magnesium added for the teadust look, but I added none. It may be getting enough from the gerstley and OM4 I guess. I've done a quite a bif of testing and am a fan of slow cooling many glazes. The one picture is a digital microscope capture of the most concentrated yellow crystal area at about 150X. This may be nothing like you're looking for, but I thought I'd share.
  4. Here's the manual for it: http://www.greatkilns.com/media/wysiwyg/2015_OLYMPIC_ELECTRIC_KILNS_OPERATING_MANUAL.pdf The receptacle can be had at any hardware or big box lumber type store. Olypmic makes replacement elements as well as places like Euclid's. Make sure you check all connections inside for more mice activity and tightness or corrosion. Good luck and have fun. Happy new year, Rob
  5. The 4"x6" clear plastic "packing list enclosed" envelopes work well. You can insert an index card or folded paper into it and seal it up on the container. Wipes clean and stays dry. Something like these: http://www.uline.com/BL_6854/Super-Stick-Packing-List-Envelopes If you have a UPS account, you can get their 6" x 10" address label pouches, UPS #171604, for free. These are also self adhesive and adhesive closure. 50 pack for the asking.
  6. If you didn't want to cement it, you could make a couple of kaowool or fiber board gaskets then use a couple of long strap clamps to hold the stack to the kiln. Since your frame is solid and one piece the stack shouln't move relative to the kiln so clamping it in place should be mechanically sound. It would come apart quickly without busting up cement if you intend it to be portable. Just a thought. Good luck with whatever you devise. BTW, on an off topic thread that you started. Have you looked at something like an Omega CN7823 for your controller project? It seemed like the Pi solution was extreme effort, but very interesting. The Omega is a PID controller with a ramp/hold feature. It has RS-485 communication built in, you'd just need a rs-485/usb converter or the like to talk to it with labview or something similar. I have one that I use to run a couple of old manual kilns. I don't have any comms enabled yet, but it's a great digital controller for the price. I put it in a box with a SSR, and I can plug either kiln into it. For the mechanically/electrically adept, it's a fairly low cost digital controller project. I bet I don't have over $200 in the whole thing.
  7. Yes, those are broken element holders. Like Neil said, you can replace them without dismantling your kiln and the instructions are on the L&L site. If you don't want to go that route, you can pin the elements in the areas with no holders. I have an old Econo-Kiln K230 that had a couple of broken holders when I received it. It had the "tiles" (the broken front piece of the element holder) in the bottom of the kiln like yours, and I just put them back and pinned them in place to hold the elements securely. I think either way will work satisfactorily. Good luck, Rob
  8. Uncoated or untreated iron rusts. As long as your kiln vent is working (try the smoke test to make sure) you shouldn't be worried. If you don't like the rust on those items, some fine steel wool will shine them back up and a light coat of oil will keep them protected. Rob
  9. If you look carefully at the original picture, you can see his right foot anchored in the vine. It's about even with the top of his left thigh.
  10. If you want it really clean, run it through a self-cleaning cycle in your oven or include it in a bisque load. This will remove all the lovely non stick "seasoning" that has developed over the years, but it will be like brand new. I have a 30 year old pizza stone that gets this treatment every few years.
  11. I have been using these: http://www.dadant.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=111&products_id=419 They have 3 sizes to choose from, I went with the 200 micron which is almost 80 mesh. For $6 you can't beat it. Similar to the Laguna ones but the whole bottom is mesh and it fits perfectly on top of a 5 gallon bucket.
  12. Epsom salt is a strong flocculant, adding that to an already overflocculated glaze will result in pudding. Try some Darvan 7 or sodium silicate. In the past, Calgon was also used as a deflocculant (it contained soduim polyphosphate) but I think they changed the formula and I don't know if the new stuff works as a defloc agent. Someone here probably has tried it and can verify. Good luck.
  13. I vote for the raku one as well. The one crack on it's face makes it look like it's smiling. You forgot to make some slime trails for them. Nice work.
  14. Good morning all. While I have my morning coffee, I thought I'd post an update on my project. I cut the kaowool into about 2" strips, folded them in half and gently stuffed them around the base of the kiln where it meets the wall. I installed them with the "V" of the fold pointing towards the outside of the kiln in hopes that the wool will act as a pseudo element groove. Element was reinstalled on top of blanket. While I had the kiln in service mode, I figured I'd add a vent too. Docweathers posed a home made kiln vent in another post and I happened to have all the relevant pieces save the fan. So for $23 and a wait of 2 days from Amazon, I had a fan and nice kiln vent. I ran a bisque Friday and was pleasantly surprised at my results. Pre-fix, this kiln would consistently fire at least a cone hotter on top. Post fix, the kiln fires quite evenly and I have zero smell due to the vent. I spent yesterday glazing said bisque and a glaze load is now cooling. We'll see tonight sometime..... Attached pics show the most recent firing's cone packs: top, middle, bottom, cones 05, 04, 03. Yes, I was out of large 05 cones and the small ones look funny, but they're there just as a sanity check anyways. The other pic is the bottom most row of elements after the repairs and the one bisque firing. The shelf in the picture is sitting on 1" posts on the floor and stays there as extra insulation. Thanks again for the advice and encouragement. Rob. BTW, why is it that the glaze bucket you kick over is the one with 2+ gallons of 15% RIO glaze? What a mess, at least I have concrete floors.
  15. Don't waste time and effort trying to remove melted cones from a plaque. Learn how to make your own cone packs, that way you will have a lifetime supply costing next to nothing. Make a 1/2" diameter coil of clay about 4" long. Press your thumb or similar into one end to create a small "bowl" on one end of the coil. This is where the lowest number (coolest and melting first) cone should go. Press the next 2 cones into the clay in a line right behind the first. Press them just about all the way through the coil so the bottom angle is correct and flush with the table top or whatever horizontal surface you are working on. Pinch the clay around the bases of the three cones to hold them in place and take your needle tool and start poking holes. Make sure you pay attention to the thicker parts between the cones and edges. Make it look like swiss cheese- more holes is better. Using this method, I have never had a cone pack explode or even crack. You can put the unfired cone pack in with a bisque or glaze load without worries. When I do this, I usually make a bunch just to have on hand ready to use. Good luck with your new toy! Rob
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.