LadyLumpsClay

Skutt 1027. Elements are due for a change soon. Just checked connectors and three have changed to a brown color. Does this mean a change is due or is it safe to operate?

Thank you! The underglaze was the only issue, the glaze was doing fine. I’ll relay this info and let her know.

One of my students made this cool jar using Kentucky Mudworks Koda mid-fire porcelain. She painted Amaco velvet under glazes on during the green ware stage. We slow bisque fired to 05. Glazed in Opulence clear and fired to cone 6. She had crazy pulling away of the under glaze from the clay body. Any ideas on how to fix? Should she seal the underglazes or do a double bisque? Thanks!

John Britt’s Translucent Matte Base with mason stains added from 3%-5%

Thanks so much guys!

I just tested John Britt’s copper red in oxidation. Fired with the attached schedule and got really weird results. My distributer gave me 60 mesh silicon carbide instead of 600 mesh and I wonder if that’s part of it. Also ran really badly on the kiln shelf. Any suggestions?

My thermocouple casing cracked after the fifth or sixth firing. Is it still okay to use or do I need to replace it already? Thank you!

Thanks for your advice on all of this, everyone. Wish me luck!

Thank you so much. This is my feeling and what I have expressed to the building supervisor and electrician and it seems I’m still not being heard. Super frustrating.

Hey y’all, I’m operating an Olympic 2827HE kiln - I think it was manufactured in 1999. It has new elements, new relays and a new thermocouple. It is hardwired, 240V and 56 amps. It is connected to a 60 amp breaker (I don’t think this is big enough, but I digress) that feeds off of the main sun panel for the building. I ran a slow bisque to 06 no problem on Tuesday. If anything, it was a bit slow at the end. I tried to run a slow glaze to cone 6 today and the main sub panel tripped at 500, 900 and 1200 degrees. When I checked the sub panel, the switches for the kiln were physically hot to the touch. The individual breaker in the kiln room did not flip off, only the main sub panel switches resulting in the kiln having no functioning controller (no lights on) and cooling quickly. An electrician has come out *several times* to look at this kiln and I’m worried it isn’t wired with the correct gauge into the sub panel. Does this seem right? Am I missing something? any advice is helpful! hannah

Does anyone have experience with the Diamond Tools CINK recirculating clay system? https://diamondcoretools.com/products/the-cink-deluxe?variant=41660763308199&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhLKUBhDiARIsAMaTLnHTY6sz2jHuAR-6Yw7WcItTgPe5PzKu5B2xa7n67s4_c1WSazbIiTwaAlXuEALw_wcB

Thank you!

Hey guys, Asking for a recommendation for a studio sink. I have water into my studio but can’t send any wastewater out because of a moratorium on our sewer lines. Does anyone know of a sink with a pump similar to the Rohde sedimentation basin that I can get in the US? I also saw something about using a pond pump to somehow create a self contained unit that allows you to use recycled water. See links below. Right now it’s just me and small groups of students so we’ve been washing out in five gallon buckets but it’s definitely time to upgrade our system. Thank you! https://www.scarva.com/Mobile/en/Rohde-Sedimentation-Basin/m-k-3191.aspx

Hey guys, Asking for a recommendation for a studio sink. I have water into my studio but can’t send any wastewater out because of a moratorium on our sewer lines. Does anyone know of a sink with a pump similar to the Rohde sedimentation basin that I can get in the US? I also saw something about using a pond pump to somehow create a self contained unit that allows you to use recycled water. See links below. Right now it’s just me and small groups of students so we’ve been washing out in five gallon buckets but it’s definitely time to upgrade our system. Thank you! https://www.scarva.com/Mobile/en/Rohde-Sedimentation-Basin/m-k-3191.aspx