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neilestrick

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About neilestrick

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    http://www.neilestrickgallery.com

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     Grayslake, IL

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  1. Older building, I figure they brought in a second service from the street at some point when they expanded/remodeled. Who knows? Lots of goofy stuff done over the years in Chicagoland.
  2. Lots of schools around here have 240V 3P. I've even got a customer (art center) that has 208V and 240V in the same building.
  3. That's a great way to do it. Keep all the important stuff in the outer box and everything will stay cooler. Relays will last a lot longer.
  4. That should work for the control box. @Mark C. what kind of paint did you use on your Skutt rebuild?
  5. So the 60 amps are for your kiln plus all of the lights, etc, in 4 studios? That's not great. According to the Olympic web site, that kiln is 8.8 cubic feet. 35 amps/8,400 watts for a kiln that size is terribly underpowered IMO. Even at 42 amps/10,080 watts it's underpowered. If you look at the L&L e28M-3, it's 8.4 cubic feet and cone 10 at 48 amps/11,520 watts. And having talked to them about it, it's just at the bottom end of a cone 10 kiln in terms of power to size ratio. I have a hard time believing that your oval was a cone 10 kiln at 42 amps, especially since it has such a large surface area for the floor and lid. Lots of heat loss there compared to a circular kiln. It was probably a cone 8 kiln before at best, and it's a cone 6 kiln now at best, and with the voltage drop it can't do the job. I don't know why they didn't make it a 48 amp kiln. No good reason not to. Talk to Olympic and see if they have any ideas.
  6. What size sieve are you using? Might need to go smaller.
  7. If it was firing fine before at that voltage, then it should still fire fine at that voltage, especially with the new elements. Most manufacturers roll their elements a little strong to account for possible drops. And since it's pulling 38 amps, which is above the specs, then I'm not convinced the voltage is the issue. Check the voltage again, as I've seen lots of voltage fluctuations on a service. I had a school recently that was measuring 228 when I was there, but runs at 240 most of the time. So it's possible that you had a fluctuation, but that wouldn't require pulling new wire. Check the plug and outlet and any jumper cords after the kiln has been running for a while to make sure they're not overheating. I had a customer where the kiln was measuring the proper voltage and amperage, but the plug was overheating and causing problems. Go ahead and replace the relays in case one is sticking when it gets hot. Also take a look at the controller and see if there's a ground wire going directly from Center Tap on the controller to a grounding screw. Sometimes they just ground them through the transformer, which doesn't always work great.
  8. One of my students just got a Bailey and she's very happy with it. Had to wait a few months to get it, though.
  9. I wouldn't connect the studio to the house. You would need a HEPA filter to keep the dangerous silica dust out of the house, not just the hi-MERV furnace filters. A HEPA filter is MERV 17 or higher, but a 3M/Filtrete 1900, one of their best, is only about MERV 13. Lots of people have home studios that are part of the house and share the air, so if you're good about cleaning and mopping and whatnot it probably isn't a big issue. But since you have the opportunity to not connect the studio and house air, I would take advantage of that and keep the garage on its own system. A one car garage could be heated with a wall mounted radiant heater, and cooled with a window unit. The other issue with tying into your house's AC system is that you'll likely mess up the balance of the system by putting a whole extra room on it. You can't just add a couple of ducts and expect the system to handle it.
  10. Yep, organics. You'll start to see the spots below red heat, like at 400C-ish until it's hot enough to burn them out.
  11. Proper clearances are required regardless of the size of the kiln. Keep it at least 12 inches from any combustible surface, and set it on a fireproof floor. You can put it on a non-fireproof floor if you put down 2 layers of cement board under it, that extend a foot or so beyond the kiln diameter. Even though it is small, you may still get noticeable odors from the kiln, especially if you use wax resist. The volume of the fumes may not be much, but depending on what you're firing you may still want to vent them out of the room. For example, if you're using lusters you definitely need to vent. For a kiln that small a fan in the window would likely do the trick.
  12. If your pigtails are centered in the holes and coming through the brick perpendicular to the brick, then you could turn the insulators around. But depending on how the brick are grooved, they may come through at an angle, or may not be perfectly centered. If that's the case, I would enlarge the hole in the brick slightly so that the stem of the insulator goes into the brick a bit to keep the pigtail from contacting the jacket.
  13. No, get it tight. Do you mean the insulators that go over the element pigtails? If the stem is broken off, I would replace the insulator, as the stem is what keeps the pigtail from contacting the metal jacket.
  14. Looks good. No problem mixing old and new brick. Most people toss them when that many bricks are beat up because it usually coincides with the bricks being very old and getting weak and crumbly. And if they're paying a repair person to do the work it gets really expensive to do a rebuild that extensive. At some point it's more cost effective to get a new kiln with updated controls. Doing it yourself it's a worthwhile investment. Nice work.
  15. Oh no! Sorry for your troubles. But yes, it shows the entire firing, from the moment it starts to the moment it stops, included preheats, holds, and cooling cycles.
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