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About neilestrick

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    Porcelain Pottery & Kiln Repair

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    Grayslake, IL

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  1. Shelf kit as in the shelves and posts that go in the kiln. That'll run $300-400 depending on the kiln. A vent will be about $400. That leaves $1800 for the kiln from the $2500. Unless the kiln is in the garage, it needs to be vented. And even then it's a good idea to vent. A downdraft vent is the cheapest method, however it only pulls out fumes, not heat. If you need to pull out heat, too, like if the kiln is in the house/basement, then you'll either need a couple of windows with fans to provide cross ventilation, or a good exhaust fan setup, or an overhead vent hood: Just one possib
  2. Use whichever clay you like best, and adjust your prices accordingly. Adding 50 cents to every mug to cover the cost shouldn't affect sales.
  3. Looks like an older version of the center tap transformers that are used in most kilns. @Bill Kielb might know for sure. If you've got a meter you can test the outputs on the transformer, assuming you can plug the kiln in. No way to know without power. If the rest of the kiln is in good condition and the price is right, then a new $12 transformer and $300 controller could be a good investment. Might have to do a little work to make the new controller fit, though.
  4. That used kiln could last you 20 years if you take care of it. It'll need new elements, and probably rewiring at some point, but if the bricks are good the rest is just regular maintenance on a kiln. The down side is that it's a manual kiln, and digital kilns offer much more functionality. And like I said, it's too small if you plan to make dinnerware. You could wait until you find a used digital kiln, but they're not as common. You'll need to find one in your area, as they can't really be shipped safely by your average person. Another option is to buy a wall-mount digital controller that
  5. I agree, not worth $700. It appears to be in very good condition, though. Again, a kiln that narrow has limitations, but if you can get it cheap then it's a good starting point. If you ever move up to a larger kiln, you're going to want a 60 amp circuit. Since this kiln doesn't need one that big, have the electrician use conduit that is big enough for the 60 amp circuit in the future. That way they can just pull new wire, which is quick and easy. Or if it's a really long run, go ahead and have a 60amp (minimum) subpanel installed by the kiln, with the circuit for the small kiln coming off
  6. I found other versions of that kiln online, and it would be a good size to have, 23"x24" correct?
  7. I agree, just buy them already made. It's worth every dollar unless you've rolled elements before and have the proper setup to do it right. But yeah, I'd trust Euclid's. The only drawback is that if you pull more than 24 amps and you're on a 30 amp breaker, then technically the 30 is not up to code (breaker must be 25% greater than the draw). At 4.5 ohms you'll be pulling close to 27 amps, which means you should be on a 40 amp breaker. That would mean pulling new wire, too, though. It shouldn't flip the 30, though. You could also just go in-between the two recommendations and roll them at
  8. Both the wheel and the kiln will last you 20+ years. Get a good wheel. The price difference between the low end and high end wheels isn't that much, so buy the more powerful one so you don't have to buy another one in 5 years. Brent makes good wheels, so does Bailey, Skutt, and Shimpo. I'm a big fan of the large splash pan of Skutt and Bailey wheels, because it keeps the studio much cleaner. I would not get a KM818 or other brand of that size. You'll quickly outgrow it, as well as become frustrated with trying to fit serving bowls or plates in it. Get a 23 inch wide kiln, like the 1018 o
  9. If you're handy, figuring out how to mount a drill with a mixing shaft to the wall or a stand should be pretty simple.
  10. The clay ones are just modified caulk guns. They're not building them from scratch. I've got a 14:1 caulk gun that I run caulk with, and I can't imagine trying to use that for clay. Caulk and sausage are nowhere near as dense as clay.
  11. If you mix long enough and/or aggressively enough there's no need to sieve. In grad school we mixed 35 gallons of glaze at a time and let the mixer run in it for a couple of hours rather than sieving. Right before I left A.R.T. Clay I was looking into buying a hi-shear mixer for our glaze production that could mix a 5 gallon bucket of glaze into a smooth slurry in minutes so we wouldn't have to sieve.
  12. Get the highest ratio you can. Clay is difficult to extrude. A hand-held extruder is only good for small stuff, like coils or mug handles. If you're looking at making hollow forms and such, you'll need a proper wall mounted unit.
  13. Nothing. They just fold the bag over and plop it in the box. You're lucky.
  14. If you use a good thick plastic bag to store it, it should keep for 9 months to a year. Most clay companies guarantee theirs for 1 year from the mixing date. I will say, though, that since clay companies stopped using twist-ties on their bags, it doesn't keep as long. So seal it up tight, whatever you do.
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