Jump to content

andryea

Members
  • Content Count

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About andryea

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    chicago

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hello ceramics community! I am working on a coil built form that I've attached a photo of. I'm using Standard 365 grolleg porcelain and because I don't have a lot of experience building larger form using porcelain I wonder if I should support the underside to prevent slumping or sagging. If so, what are your recommendations and thoughts? Thanks, Andryea
  2. Wadding or wads, to a newbie like me, sounds both very technical and yet somewhat imprecise... kind of like a recipe for chicken soup. The ingredients vary from maker to maker. Regardless, I'm trying to visualize what these look like before and after firing. Does anybody have a photo? I guess I could google it. While I understand the function I don't understand practical aspect. Thanks for your patience with me.
  3. You are kind! No doubt you are correct with regards to ease of use. I do know that many of my spoons end up hanging on a wall or are displayed on a shelf. Go figure! What does this mean? Might be easier kiln packing just placing on two wads, quick polish.
  4. I'm afraid my spoons do not have a curve in the handle and when viewed from the side sit flat on the shelf. I think I've seen the stilts you posted a photo of somewhere on the internet. Are the stilts with the metal inappropriate? (That's what I have.)
  5. Thank you all for your insightful input. I am just an infant when it comes to ceramics. I've had little formal education and it's obvious here. Nevertheless, the experience has been a good teacher. Like I said in my first post, I'm more familiar working with low fire clay. However... the allure of porcelain is so powerful that I bought 50#'s to experiment with. I didn't realize it comes with a steep learning curve. I'm not sure I like it or that I will continue working with it but I am determined to use it so I appreciate the advice. @Piedmont Pottery You are right a foot ring would
  6. I am pretty sure it was porcelain. Although now you have me doubting it. I don't use cones because my kiln has programs that I follow. It was set to Slow Glaze at cone 6. Here are a couple of images of three other pieces that were stilted in that same firing.
  7. Thanks. I have one experience stilting porcelain pieces to cone 6. It was disaster. Everything slumped around the stilts. Fortunately, the stilts survived but the pieces got all wavy and warped. I'm not sure what 'not too heavy' means exactly because I had something pretty light in there that practically melted over the stilt!
  8. Hmmm, that's pretty interesting and maybe a tell tale sign! I make my spoons in two parts, a coiled handle and a flat, under a slab roller/bent into the bowl shape. I wonder how a pinched or carved bowl shape would behave. Thanks!!
  9. Yes, for a glaze fire. You're right a 1/2" kiln post is very low. I'm wanting to elevate a 2" kiln post 1/2" more. And yes... I have tried tumble stacking but invariably something breaks.
  10. I ran out of the shortest size (1/2") kiln furniture and wonder... could I elevate what I do have with some flat unused test tiles? If yes, my next question is about the temperature. I'm firing the kiln to cone 6 but the test tiles are cone 04. Will this be a problem?
  11. good to know. thanks. I'm still a little confused and wonder what I'm still missing. How are the bricks or shells different from stilts? And won't the porcelain slump regardless if it's sitting up, off the shelf, on something?
  12. Thank you all for sharing your advice and experiences. I am answering your questions below and have a few follow up questions. Thank you in advance. What the general consensus about stilting regardless of whether it's sea shells or soft brick or a stilt itself when firing porcelain to cone 6? @Babs The whole back side of my spoons rests flat. Can you clarify what you mean when you said... 'You may find you only need a small spit (?) at end of handle and another at the belly of the spoon in which case, a dab of resist (?) or be prepared to lightly grind when placing on a spur..like us
  13. Thanks for replying @Bill Kielb I like your suggestion of scoring below the hole and then breaking it off. It's a brilliant idea! Do you score all around, front and back? Does it break pretty easily? Do you take a dremel tool fitted with a diamond bit to smooth the break or what? As for hanging... I'm not exactly sure how to set up a hanging system but am thinking that this might be the way to go for future pieces. That said... what do I do with these unglazed spoons? Is my only real option to leave the handles and backs unglazed? BTW - I have tested the HF-9 with the cla
  14. Hi, I've been working with mostly a low fire clay body (Standard 105, cone 06) making functional pieces including spoons and utensils. I glaze them completely and then stilt them without any problems. But, now, I've starting to work with porcelain (Standard 365, cone 6) and wonder how in the world will l glaze them with Amaco Zinc Free Clear (HF-9). I don't really want to glaze only the inside of the spoon and leave the handle and back unglazed. I'm sure I'm not the only person who wants to do this so I'm wondering... how do I glaze them completely? One solution I thought of would be to
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.