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Home made clay extrusion


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I designed this clay extruder to be flexible and easy-to-use it can be used on a tabletop
 
features:-
 
Hydraulic assisted (hydraulic jack is used to make the clay extrusion easy.
Main clay chamber can be converted easily to accommodate small dies.
 
With a simple adjustment on the plunger will allows you to have a smaller clay chamber. I like to think of this as a clay saver because you are not filling the large chamber full of clay for a small die.
I designed a small easy-to-use adapter to allow smaller dies, the adapter slides into the main clay chamber. It is easy to change over from the main chamber to the smaller chamber.
 
 
Larger die, I made an attachment which fits in the bottom of the main chamber this increases the diameter allowing you to use larger dies The main purpose of designing this system was to make it flexible and most of all easy to use. On the hydraulic side there is a sliding mechanism which helps to transfer maximum pressure evenly across the clay being extruded. The whole of this project was  printed in 3d  this allowed me to test and find the best way to achieve an adaptable easy-to-use extruder.
 
The finished project was a combination of stainless steel and 3D printed components
 
paste266.jpg
 
paste270.jpg
 
I designed this clay extruder to be flexible and easy-to-use it can be used on a tabletop
 
features:-
 
Hydraulic assisted (hydraulic jack is used to make the clay extrusion easy.
Main clay chamber can be converted easily to accommodate small dies.
 
With a simple adjustment on the plunger will allows you to have a smaller clay chamber. I like to think of this as a clay saver because you are not filling the large chamber full of clay for a small die.
I designed a small easy-to-use adapter to allow smaller dies, the adapter slides into the main clay chamber. It is easy to change over from the main chamber to the smaller chamber.
 
 
Larger die, I made an attachment which fits in the bottom of the main chamber this increases the diameter allowing you to use larger dies The main purpose of designing this system was to make it flexible and most of all easy to use. On the hydraulic side there is a sliding mechanism which helps to transfer maximum pressure evenly across the clay being extruded. The whole of this project was  printed in 3d  this allowed me to test and find the best way to achieve an adaptable easy-to-use extruder.
 
The finished project was a combination of stainless steel and 3D printed components
 
 
 
Main clay cylinder Is made from a piece of durable Heavy duty long lasting piping
2 Orange locating rings .
 
 
There are stainless steel locating pins which secure the cylinder to the base board
 
Below the base board you can attach the expansion box to the stainless steel pins
which are easily fixed in place with wing nutsins
 
Metalwork
Steel tubing throughout painted with rust presenter Zink coating with Matt black paint
Red paint has been applied to the main plunger Connecting fittings
stainless steel bearings and shaft stainless steel link pins with stainless steel locking collars
galvanised fittings have also been used in this project
 
 
 
 
One mounting board which slides into the steel metal frame for easy removal and cleaning
 
 
As with any extruder use soft clay .Using hard clay on any extruder may damage your equipment
always make sure the clay you use is suitable for the type of extruder you use
 
After making this extruder I decided to make a clay hardness instrument tool
 
Please go back to the main menu and click on the link clay hardness tool for more information
 
 

Clay hardness.jpg

Clay Extruder.jpg

Edited by Michael G Parry-Thomas
Take out webzine to website
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I built a bumper jack extruder 20 years ago,  the plans were in a Ceramics Monthly magazine.   As I get old I find it hard to use,  I find my self avoiding using the extruder,  the arthritis in my hands say no.   I was suppose to work on some replacement tile molding  that was extruded last week,  I  just kept putting it off.   I'll have my husband look at and see if he thinks it would be easier for me to use.   Maybe he will help me build this one,  the last one I built  on my own and modified it a couple of times.  He can build anything but usually takes a year to get around working on my projects    Denice.

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The bumper jack plans were published in Ceramics Monthly in 1976, and reprinted in Pottery Making Illustrated in 1999.  I have both those on disk but I can't find the CDs.  I had printed out the plans and can't find those either.  You used to be able to find them on the internet but I sure can't find them anymore.  I've decided of late that I do, after all, have some use for an extruder - but now I can't find the plans anywhere, LOL!

I'm actually not sure I can find a bumper jack any more either, they don't seem to be a thing any more.

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When I built mine my husband had a extra one in the garage,  I told him what I was going to do build.   He said I will get you one from a car salvage that is in better shape,   he couldn't find any.   It  works but there is worn out teeth on the rachet.   I have a caulking gun extruder that I use for small molding and a cookie press gun that also works well.   Fortunately they all take the same size die,  I make my own dies out of clear cutting boards.  Denice

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I've made a firm decision NOT to buy any more battery operated power tools.  The batteries are not interchangeable, they die, and then you not only have to replace them (at great expense) you also have to safely dispose of the dead ones.  They USED to make corded models of caulking guns, I saw a guy who used one to do exactly what you're talking about, but I couldn't find a single corded model.  I bought a Dewalt drill 2 or 3 years ago and discovered that they had already discontinued the battery for it when I bought it.  I ended up having to buy a new drill with 2 new batteries and an adapter because it was actually cheaper than the adapter by itself.  I wouldn't have bothered but I need the drill to work the cutters for the hardiebacker.

What a waste!

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Wasn't particularly happy with the battery powered tools I bought some thirty years ago.
However, "big" projects* drove decision to wade back into cordless, so many positives!
Lightweight, powerful, long battery life, precise control at low speed, cute little light that shines on the target, easy to use on a ladder...
...also very handy for stirring up glazes - no cord knocking over coffee, wares - and that precise control, woops, heh, just kidding, no, really, check that the trigger has the feel/control you need.
The chuck is awesome - just that is so worthwhile.
It's no substitute for the burly half inch corded model when it comes to mixing reclaim, no.

Add a hammer drill to the stable?
Yep! Hammer drill makes putting holes in concrete/stone so much easier, sooo much.
Add an oscillating tool? Why did we not have one of these a'ready? O M G what a handy tool.
...the batteries are all interchangeable, go.
     Added: The batteries on our three yellow branded tools are completely interchangeable.
                        The three amp/hour one is heavier, but lasts longer, eh?

All three have already "earned" back the costs, imo, after their first jobs.
Another tool I put in that same class, pancake/portable compressor and finish nail gun; compared to setting nails in baseboard and door casing By Hand?
We've since added a framing nail gun and upholstery staple gun.

I'll be quiet now!

*Remodeling the son's house, where we're often using every drill motor we own, each fitted with a different bit/drill, go!
The aforementioned (yellow) brand markets a very short body lightweight cordless, handy for drilling wire ways through wall studs, makes a long day of hanging sheetrock a bit less onerous - light, powerful, and, And, precise control for those of us that prefer screws to nails (without investing in a drywall screw gun). 

Added II: Note, a "driver" hammers in the turning direction, which assists in driving screws; a "hammer" drill impacts straight ahead, which helps when drilling, particularly where the material doesn't cut into chips when drilled, e.g. cement, stone

Edited by Hulk
ymmv, driver vs. hammer, Big Difference
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Batteries are NOT interchangeable except in a limited way.  Even the same brand tool often uses a different battery from the tool you bought 2 years ago.  And they vary wildly in storage/charging/usage rules.  My DeWalt flashlight, which takes the old batteries, you  can leave the battery IN the tool.  My DeWalt drill, if you leave the battery IN the tool it will run it down and damage the battery (so they say). Some other DeWalt tools have different rules - it doesn't even carry over within the brand. My son's black & decker cordless weed whacker currently has 7, count them, SEVEN batteries, 4 of them B&D batteries.  None of them, including the new off brand batteries (because the B&D batteries cost more than the tool) lasts more than 20 minutes in use.  I would MUCH rather haul a 100' extension cord around.

No thanks, I've had it.  Give me a corded tool that I pay for ONCE and then its good to go for the next 20 years.  And no spent batteries clogging up landfills, leaking highly toxic stuff, not to mention the mining and rights violations that go along with that in most of the places the battery stuff comes from.

I built a house in the 00's using DeWalt cordless tools and hand tools.  Given my experiences since, I'll stick with corded, and wish I had then as well.  Its not THAT much trouble to deal with the cord.  Beats spending hundreds of dollars on a tool that after 2 or 3 years, you have to essentially re-buy because the batteries have gone south.

I already use corded drills for mixing glazes etc.  I don't have any issue with the cord knocking anything over.  Also they weigh far less than similar battery powered drills - those batteries are HEAVY. And if you're running anything off a compressor, not only is there a cord (for the compressor) there are hoses.  We can deal with those as well.

Edited by Pyewackette
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Being an older, smaller person, I have to agree with @Pyewackette that rechargeable batteries make some tools too heavy for me to use easily. However, with enough spare batteries and efficient recharging protocols they can make big complicated jobs much easier.

Also agree that battery expense and lack of interchangeability is a huge complication. I would be grateful if some industry standard were devised and applied - it’s been a few decades since they came into use.

So, I guess it depends on frequency and convenience …

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Several years ago,  I built a deck attached to the garage and house. 2 layers, no help building the framing at all. Used one corded hammer drill and two different cordless drills. Charged over night batteries lasted all day. Dad helped me put on composite decking. Don't know how I would have done it using corded drills with cords all over the place.

The only electric putty gun out there was by Ryobi at the time. Easy to make a fake putty tube out of cvc pipe. used regular pipe fittings to finish up. Had to modify the plunger head to fit the cvc inside diameter.  Great idea suggested by @Minthat has been used for handles ever since.

 

best,

Pres

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Deck? I built a two story HOUSE with corded or unpowered tools and one cordless DeWalt drill.  I'm 5'2" tall and female, I had little or no help during construction (and no nail gun either, way too heavy to handle, corded or not, for me). I mean really - what's the big deal about a cord??? 

My issue with the plans for a hydraulic jack powered extruder per the OP is that they seem to require use of a 3d printer.  I'll run the device past my brother the machinist and see if he thinks he can build it for me sans a 3d printer.  It looks like it would have to be table mounted which is a shame - a wall mounted extruder would have more room for extrusions and just generally take up less real estate.  When we get moved - which may be in the offing, it'll be a little while before we're sure - and I set up my "real studio" I'll have a Peter Pugger, which has extrusion dies.  But it does seem a bit of overkill just to extrude some handles.

This guy's extruder sure looks like a good possibility, though I'd go with something a bit sturdier than bolts for the leverage point. Seems like a small target to use as a lever point for the business end of that handle. Still, simple, to the point, and uses off-the-shelf easily available parts:

The other possibility (for my immediate use) would be to come up with some strap molds for handles.  I'm doubtful of my ability to make pretty ones, though.

Edited by Pyewackette
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3 hours ago, Pres said:

Several years ago,  I built a deck attached to the garage and house. 2 layers, no help building the framing at all. Used one corded hammer drill and two different cordless drills. Charged over night batteries lasted all day. Dad helped me put on composite decking. Don't know how I would have done it using corded drills with cords all over the place.

Unfortunately / fortunately the way of the future. Batteries improving in longevity and weight. ECM motors more efficient. Rare earth magnets replacing wound copper rotors. Brushless! Powered tools improve productivity and non corded site safety a whole bunch. Gone are the days where the tool is holstered, you are tied off of Course dragging around 50 ft of extension cord just waiting to pull off balance, get tangled or stepped upon. Pneumatics also being replaced with battery powered - same issue, maybe worse. Like printer cartridges though everyone has their proprietary battery shape and chargers.
Lithium batteries - game changer in weight and power density. Lithium iron phosphate newest game changer, now battery powered site generators in many ways better than the old fueled. Tesla scheduled to reveal newest next game changer battery soon.

For home construction and special needs, corded are still fine. For convenience and improving site safety more than tenfold, cordless can’t be beat and very few sites (if any) are significantly corded anymore. Cord safety in itself a constant OSHA issue. When real contractors build things, as many cordless as practical are in use for many good reasons.

Edited by Bill Kielb
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@Pyewackette, is it just for handles (for now at least) you are thinking of building an extruder? I used to throw handles from a large flat donut of clay on a batt for baking dishes. Can put any number of ridges or gullies into them and make them however thick you want. After wiring the donut off I would let the clay set up slightly then cut off sections and gently pull them to straighten the curve out. (If this doesn't make sense I can do a quick one and post an image if you like)

 

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I've seen some thrown tube handles that work.
...also pulling and then cutting handles "off the hump" where the initial taper is thrown, then the wheel is stopped for the pulls...
...haven't tried either, but thrown tubes for side handled teapots is "on the list."
 

Back to Michael's extruder, nice use of hydraulic, thanks again for sharing!
Please do report back on how it's working for you, any helpful tips, et cetera...

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@Min, yes, its handles that are my immediate concern.  Extruding them may or may not be "cheating", but I'm tired of mucking about with trying to pull them.  At one time I was pulling them pretty well, but I've lost the knack and it doesn't come back easily.  I'm too old to mess around when I could just as well squeeze them out of a tube.  If I was going to have to have an extruder, then I figured I should come up with other uses for it as well - but really its just the handles I'm focused on atm.

Also talking to some of the "real" potters around here, I've been told that pulling handles is really hard on the neck/back/shoulders.  I've got enough damage to those areas (I've had frozen shoulder in both shoulders, twice on one side).  Perhaps extruding is the better part of valor.

I would appreciate any illustrations you can provide of your method.  I did try throwing a ring to make handles from but haven't been very successful getting it off the bat.  Not sure that letting it dry to the point it would pop off my one hydrobat would be too dry for manipulating it as a handle.  I need to do that for making test tiles as well, but since I don't have my new clays yet (hoping for delivery "next week" LOL!) I haven't prioritized getting that figured out.

Plus I'm having such fun actually being able to throw without fighting the clay!

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35 minutes ago, Pyewackette said:

but really its just the handles I'm focused on atm

Handle molds and handle forms (2 ideas) forms are only foam and cheap so you can make your own if you find a consistent shape you like. Press mold a bit pricey but very precise consistent handles can be made easily.

 

IMG_4157.jpeg

Edited by Bill Kielb
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Using pool noodles as handle forms strikes me as a good idea - I have plenty of pool noodles, I use them for all sorts of things.

https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/daily/article/Quick-Tips-2-Handbuilt-Handle-Techniques

I'm not so sold on the paper towel roll idea LOL!

@Min I forgot and just typed @Min in my last post above.  I don't know why but the site software won't insert the proper notification code if you just type it.  You have to select it from the drop down.  So yes, I would appreciate illustration of your handle-throwing-shaping technique.  Sorry!

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10 hours ago, Pyewackette said:

@Min I forgot and just typed @Min in my last post above.  I don't know why but the site software won't insert the proper notification code if you just type it.  You have to select it from the drop down.  So yes, I would appreciate illustration of your handle-throwing-shaping technique.  Sorry!

Done, will start a new thread with it in Studio Operations and Making Work.

Edited by Min
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I shape simple extruded handles by  putting them inside oval cookie cutters. Extrude the strap, let it set up slightly so you can handle it without messing it up, then push it against the inside of the cookie cutter to get the shape. Leave it in there until it's set up enough that it will hold shape when you take it out. Makes a nice curve that's comfortable to hold. You can buy multiples of the same size cutter from folks on Etsy who 3D print them.

PXL_20231115_151547359.jpg.94ead891fd934d08d3e6765ab1293acd.jpgPXL_20231115_151708172.jpg.d37213886c257b929213a01ca6b64d7c.jpg

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On 11/4/2023 at 3:35 AM, Michael G Parry-Thomas said:
I designed this clay extruder to be flexible and easy-to-use it can be used on a tabletop
 
features:-
 
Hydraulic assisted (hydraulic jack is used to make the clay extrusion easy.
Main clay chamber can be converted easily to accommodate small dies.
 
With a simple adjustment on the plunger will allows you to have a smaller clay chamber. I like to think of this as a clay saver because you are not filling the large chamber full of clay for a small die.
I designed a small easy-to-use adapter to allow smaller dies, the adapter slides into the main clay chamber. It is easy to change over from the main chamber to the smaller chamber.
 
 
Larger die, I made an attachment which fits in the bottom of the main chamber this increases the diameter allowing you to use larger dies The main purpose of designing this system was to make it flexible and most of all easy to use. On the hydraulic side there is a sliding mechanism which helps to transfer maximum pressure evenly across the clay being extruded. The whole of this project was  printed in 3d  this allowed me to test and find the best way to achieve an adaptable easy-to-use extruder.
 
The finished project was a combination of stainless steel and 3D printed components
 
paste266.jpg
 
paste270.jpg
 
I designed this clay extruder to be flexible and easy-to-use it can be used on a tabletop
 
features:-
 
Hydraulic assisted (hydraulic jack is used to make the clay extrusion easy.
Main clay chamber can be converted easily to accommodate small dies.
 
With a simple adjustment on the plunger will allows you to have a smaller clay chamber. I like to think of this as a clay saver because you are not filling the large chamber full of clay for a small die.
I designed a small easy-to-use adapter to allow smaller dies, the adapter slides into the main clay chamber. It is easy to change over from the main chamber to the smaller chamber.
 
 
Larger die, I made an attachment which fits in the bottom of the main chamber this increases the diameter allowing you to use larger dies The main purpose of designing this system was to make it flexible and most of all easy to use. On the hydraulic side there is a sliding mechanism which helps to transfer maximum pressure evenly across the clay being extruded. The whole of this project was  printed in 3d  this allowed me to test and find the best way to achieve an adaptable easy-to-use extruder.
 
The finished project was a combination of stainless steel and 3D printed components
 
 
 
Main clay cylinder Is made from a piece of durable Heavy duty long lasting piping
2 Orange locating rings .
 
 
There are stainless steel locating pins which secure the cylinder to the base board
 
Below the base board you can attach the expansion box to the stainless steel pins
which are easily fixed in place with wing nutsins
 
Metalwork
Steel tubing throughout painted with rust presenter Zink coating with Matt black paint
Red paint has been applied to the main plunger Connecting fittings
stainless steel bearings and shaft stainless steel link pins with stainless steel locking collars
galvanised fittings have also been used in this project
 
 
 
 
One mounting board which slides into the steel metal frame for easy removal and cleaning
 
 
As with any extruder use soft clay .Using hard clay on any extruder may damage your equipment
always make sure the clay you use is suitable for the type of extruder you use
 
After making this extruder I decided to make a clay hardness instrument tool
 
Please go back to the main menu and click on the link clay hardness tool for more information
 
 

Clay hardness.jpg

Clay Extruder.jpg

Hi everybody

Tried out some commercial available hollow dies in the small clay saver
They are well made the hollow clay tubes came out amazing.

When I made  this  extruder no  welding was used
It all bolted  together  ,

I have made a small alteration the ball joint socket has been extended and is fixed in place with some bolts

I will draw up some plans on how to make this extruder some time next year,

Mick

hollow die.jpg

hollow clay tube.jpg

Edited by Michael G Parry-Thomas
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