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Tools And Studio Design


heva423

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Hi!

Hopefully I'm in the right forum section.

 

I have a few questions as far as studio design and tools.

 

I have been driving myself nuts to find a zip up case to carry all of my tools in. I travel to different art councils and studios to teach children's classes in ceramics. I would love to take my tools with me but don't want to just throw them all in a bag. Has anyone come across kit that maybe resembles something flat like a portfolio but for tools? I have quite a few so it would have to be able to hold quite a few. I can only find ones that hold around 14 tools.

 

Also I am building some new wedging boards for my studio and have yet to find a easy design for a wedging table. I can only seem to find ones for table tops. Any suggestions?

 

Thanks!

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Guest JBaymore

A good resource on studio ops and such is Steven Branfman's "A Potters Professional Handbook".

 

best,

 

.................john

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heva, what size wedging table do you want?  the basic building of any table is almost always just sturdy legs, solid apron useful top.  for a wedging table, a simple slanted top helps. the uphill side faces you.  there are lots of ways to connect these pieces.  size of space is usually the most important consideration.  think a little more about what you want to end up with and then ask again.

 

the simplest way to build one is to cover a thick piece of plywood with Tyvek, a waterproof but absorbent building paper.  one side for white clay, the other for dark.  the slant is a simple pair of bricks supporting the uphill side.  put it on a table that is the right height and wedge away.

 

there are lots of other surfaces people use.  canvas is the WORST because you will not wash it under a hose every day.  people talk about it but do not actually turn the water on and DO IT.  the clay dries in the canvas and at every touch more silica dust is raised to get into your lungs.

 

a large rectangle of slate from a garden center is excellent.  very heavy but the surface is perfect.  

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"Slate should only be heavy once!  :) When it is first placed, that is."

 

I have a large concrete patio block covered with canvass and thought that once placed that was that. Well, not so...I don't have tons of room and find I am having to move it way more than I like, plus even turning it over to go from lights to darks is rough. It is very heavy and besides not having great forearm strength, even back issues come into play when lifting and moving a heavy piece. I have a very sturdy table at the right height so I am going to try a square of plywood covered with canvass, or a piece of Hardy-backer, and see how that does. Mostly I do the cut and slam method and have a terrific cutting wire set-up, but for smaller batches I do spiral wedging and need a board. Here is a link to the XIEM Studio Bag...might be of interest to you.  http://www.xiemtoolsusa.com/gallery.asp?catalogid=209

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I have a very sturdy table at the right height so I am going to try a square of plywood covered with canvass, or a piece of Hardy-backer, and see how that does.

I use a 24"X24" piece of 1/2" plywood -- no covering. I have one for white clay; one for brown/red. After wedging, I sponge off the surface. My wood pieces are several years old and show no signs of needing replacement.

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i have seen a table done by hinging a pair of boards, one for light, one for dark.  the boards were hinged  to a wall horizontally  and lowered onto the table surface when needed.  a very large hook, like an old fashioned screen door hook, held them out of the way when not needed.

 

the slate was heavy but used so often that it was permanently built into a table top.  originally came from the manufacturer of pool tables.  they get broken sometimes and are free if you just take them away.  over an inch thick and flat as a pancake.

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The slate idea is fantastic. I am thinking about doing that, since I am just going to be working in a single clay for the next few years. I would love a nice square slate wedging table. I guess I will have to build one. I am gonna have to break down and buy a skillsaw, a bunch of 2x4s and 1x8x4s for wall shelves and I think my half garage studio will be a lot better.

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grype, if you do not own those tools and the skill to use them without damage to yourself, find a local carpenter or house builder and support a local crafts(wo)man.

 

1x8 might seem to be a good size but the lumber should be very dry so it does not warp.  get a carpenter to slice up a sheet of 3/4 inch (or whatever size they call it now) birch plywood into 8 12 inch shelves 4 feet long.  you might change your work over the years and it will not fit well on a 7 1/2 inch board.

 

a home depot or lowes will slice your plywood for you and might not charge anything at all to do it.  the plywood is about $40 these days.  lasts forever.  do NOT varnish or paint the wood, whatever you use.

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  • 3 weeks later...

If many of your tools are long and slender, (brushes, needle and trimming tools, etc) a nice solution is a bamboo place mat. Weave 3 lengths of ribbon or elastic loosely through it, spaced about 2" apart. Slide your tools in and roll it up. Look in art supply stores or Dick Blick catalog for commercial examples meant for artists' brushes.

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