Hulk

I'm-a start saving for lightweight shelving!

Ceramic Shop lists this part: SBCBWHA
From Clay Planet website:
 "14” wheel head with sturdy steel structure and long lasting polypropolene[sic] composite surface "

For anyone needing to replace this 50k ohm rotary potentiometer it's a 1/4" diameter long shaft linear taper type for which a Google search finds many sources and different qualities ranging from $0.90 to $20, the former being a generic unsealed type (hence the big gob of silicone RTV in the image in earlier post) and the latter being a precision instrument type.  Certainly more common than the 'slider' type used on later models.
Wheel was a freebie thrown in with some other Craigslist purchases, so if it gives 10 years of incidental use for the price of belts, switch, fuse holder, and paint I'll be more than happy.  Although it's 52 years old, it appears to be a low mileage specimen that took a long barn vacation with rodents.  If the drive train dies it will revert to a banding wheel, the wheel head bearings are very smooth running.

Best of luck to you Joseph. I have enjoyed reading your posts. 

A corner might be good.  Clay is such a therapeutic way to manage all sorts of stress, life events.  As we have all witnessed the last 4 years, prices have gone up and up and up.  If you decide to go back to clay, your cost outlay would not be as steep.  I hope you can find a corner.  As @Denice suggested, maybe the slab roller?  If it takes up a lot of space?  Your life is crazy busy right now, but it will change.  We had 3 kids.   We get it.   Best of luck to you Joseph. 
Roberta 

Good to know. I might just find a corner in my garage and neatly organize everything. Still haven't decided on what to do. I dislike selling things because I am not a haggler at all and that process annoys me greatly.

Drilling is the very very last resort-the PB blaster soaking for days then varouis mechanical tools would be my go to. Never had that fail ,heat before drilling for sure as well
drilling will screw up the threads so that means retaping to the next larger size. patience is whats needed here and I have little myselg except when it comes to the se situations .
The easy outs are the ticket as Hulk posted above -. Drill only the center-then soak it for a day or two then use the easy our-You tube this to see how if you do not have experience with tham

Never ever lost my patience …………… er sort of - I have also had luck when drilling to get a left hand drill bit for extra special frustrating  occasion to stack the odds in my favor.

Hope you can get the set screws loosened/removed without damaging the threaded holes.
A drop of LiquidWrench might help - it dissolves rust/oxidation.
We've used heat to loosen threaded fasteners*; warming the surrounding metal  causes it to expand.
Tap-tap, some light percussion - a hammer*** - can help loosen the oxidation/rust.
Repeat the heat, the taps, the time while the LiquidWrench soak in thar...
Stubborn/broken threaded bits sometimes respond well to screw extractor type tools. I've had better luck with the straight tapers, e.g.

over the spiral type.
Be careful to drill the stuck part without damaging the threads in the surrounding material(s)!
Added: if the threads are damaged, "chasing" the hole with a tap might save it, else, if there's room to drill it out and cut new threads to the next largest size - that could save it.
 
*One must be very careful when using heat!
Not burning oneself, others, the shop, its furnishings and tools, check.
Add: beware generating fumes; beware changing the surrounding metal's temper; beware cooking any seal, bearing, grease, paint, etc.
***Tap-tap! Careful there, so easy to allow frustration to boil over and over-hit, heh.

Hi.  I have found this stuff to work well on rusted screws.  It may take a few applications (spray...wait several hours or day...spray) 
Now I need to check the screw heads on my Clay Boss.

Copper red glaze test tiles is a good idea - I will mix up a batch and make sure I have some test tiles in my next firing. I fired a large West Coast gas kiln for many years, but when the studio closed I moved to my garage, switched to a Cone 8 electric kiln, and reformulated all my glazes to Cone 8. Now that I am moving back to Cone 10 gas firings, I will dust off my old glaze recipes and get used to my small gas mystery kiln. I had a copper red formula that was great because it was beautiful in reduction, but also a lovely green in oxidation. Hopefully I can blow the dust off my notebooks and find it!
For anyone that has a small gas kiln, is it hard to get good reduction throughout such a small volume? 
Thx

We call that color ‘snot red 

Another technique some use  for later is to mix up a copper red glaze for reduction and place samples throughout the kiln to see just how well you reduce and maintain it. This oxblood color goes ugly green / grey pretty quickly with any sneaky oxygen infiltration. It teaches the importance of keeping the kiln in full reduction top to bottom while providing a way to map the reduction performance within the kiln. Only a handful of metals are significantly affected by reduction btw.
 

No reason you can't put the water into the old glaze bucket to start with. I agree with sieving once unless you have a specific reason for doing that.

I finally got around to doing a few glaze tests and brushed some on these mugs. Can't feel any texture through the glaze so pretty happy with the results as I didn't do any cleanup on the mold print.
 
Need gum for brushing, seem to have lost mine.
Need to go back and work on my clay, maybe.
 
The clay is great except it still takes 1.5-2 hours to cast the larger mug and it likes to hang onto bubbles.
Fires like a dream, bisque in 4 hours (20 min to 100c, hold for 20 min then 3h to 800c and hold for 20 min) and glaze in 5.5. I could go faster on the glaze but after 800 my kiln stops climbing at 250 c/h. At 1000 to 1100 it can only manage 80 c/h but that's ok for hitting 1100 cone03.

Mark, you are right, it's a model C.  And I just noticed when photographing the inside of the foot pedal that it's date stamped JAN 1972.
And the good news is the foot pedal, motor controller, and motor all seem to be working fine now with new fuse holder and toggle switch installed.  Just waiting for the belts to arrive.
The three trim pots are on the controller board shown in the Feb 17 post above, but they aren't that obvious because they are seen edge on in the photo.  I've added arrows to the image below to point them out.  Two are brownish plastic, and the third is a lighter colored plastic.

I didn't turn any of them because everything seems to be running fine as it is, and may never need to be adjusted.  Nevertheless, I'm intrigued to know why there are three not just two.
The foot pedal contains only a single 50k-ohm rotary potentiometer and the plastic rack and pinion to drive it as seen in the image below.  (And a huge gob of RTV silicone over the terminals.)

The good information and helpful people on this forum are much appreciated.  This is my first experience with an electric wheel as up to now I've been throwing on a hand-powered Japanese style (home-built) wheel and a 1971 kick wheel like the one in this ad.  Steel flywheel, but 12" wheel head.  Just need a period boom-box and some 70s mix tapes for the studio....

Here is what an older potentiometer looks like (all white unit) .The whole unit these days is all Black plastic
Brandon covered all this well and then older units do get brittle and like this one in photo is cracked but can be epoxied to get more life from it.
You need to be handy a bit to repair unit or replace the potentiometer
 

The belts are small single V belts as I mentioned and that will last a lifetime-I mentione this in above pots
This wheel NEVER had a belt guard underneath most likely. 
I do not see any trim pots in your post on Feb 17th
The trim controls for wheel are in the bottom of foot pedal not on the control board-it has no adjustments for anthing take the bottom cover off foot pedal-you will see a red and blue wheel that takes a straight blade screwdriver one is high end one is low end. They work together to fine tune them
The two holes in deck someone drilled to attach a splash pan is my guess and use silicone to fill them as they will allow water to get under deck and be a rust issue
Just for you info Brent never made a model B in the early days-see the brochure at top of this post for all the early models.Your 1/2 HP motor means it was a model C . I have that same wheel only an earlier model that does not have the plastic deck but a formica flat top with no ridges around perimeter. Model Bs which came later all had 1/3 HP  motors as they are today
No one left at Brent knows this stuff anymore i feel-all the old timers are long gone I think.
That foot pedal is one of the early models and Brent has no parts for them. They do wear out over time so baby it if you can. You can buy a cheaper potentiometer here and fabracate it into this pedal here . Your potentiometer is white  as all the early ones where white and now they are all black.
When your contol board stops working the oldest control board brent sells will work fine for you but you will need a larger control box to fit it into.
These early boards fit into a shallow steel electrical box and used toggle switches not rocker as you noted.You can buy rockers for cheap when that control board stops working later.You may get lots of years still on that board or not its a unknown. I keep a spare board in stock in studio but I have 5 wheels adn like to keep tham all working well.
This is down the road for you as I have been there and done that long ago in terms of the larger plastic control box and new controls and reaplacing the foot pedal as well with the newer style.
I have a spare  foot pedal that was just sent to me from a person on this board who replaced theirs if you need one in the future.
Let me know if you need any other info just PM me
 

I taught a summer ceramic class one time,  it was a level two throwing class.   I was surprise that most of the students didn't know about body movement and the type of tension in the hands and arms.  I was just filling in the regular teacher was there with injured hands she guided them with the assembly of parts and glazing.   Denice

@Kelly in AK, I became a much better potter after teaching others, and a much better potter also.  I look at teaching ceramics more like coaching, because we are teaching a skill that requires certain movements and body positions along with assembly of parts. I believe shop managers/supervisors of last century were much like coaches also.
 
best,
Pres

The gas/soda kiln (finished work) gets fired 4-6 times a year. Sometimes it’s jam packed, others it’s a little more roomy. I had to scroll through photos to double check my guess. That’s two of us making pots in the studio. No big operation, but steady.
Of course at school it’s different, the kiln’s going constantly, feels that way anyway. Though it’s not my work or kiln I still squeeze some tests in there and things that work for me I’ll use with my kids. It’s been a great opportunity to learn and be a better ceramics teacher. 
 

Update on the cement siding board* bats.
I recommend sanding them smooth, painting/sealing them so the working surface is less abrasive, and trimming the edges with a tile saw (wet saw).
The bats are very stiff, not heavy, store nicely, are easy and not terribly expensive to make, even if paying full retail for a plank or two. 
The material is somewhat brittle; I'm curious to see how they hold up.
Per prior, sanding with the powered random orbital sander gets them smooth enough to use; I used 120 grit discs.
...smooth enough, yes, but I didn't use them - my other bats are smoother.
Also, I can choose between a bit absorbent (powder board), not absorbent at all (plastic), or very absorbent (plaster).
The cement board bats are between "a bit" and "very" absorbent - which I haven't been interested in.
So, I sanded off the six demo bats more, washed and dried them, then shot them with aerosol can "epoxy" paint (I found Krylon appliance paint at the local box store).
The new cement board is "pre primed," hence, two coats seem sufficient.
Between coats, allow to dry, sand off the gloss, clean (!important!), then apply next coat. 
The bats made from older cement board - that isn't pre primed - three coats seem sufficient.
The fibers stick up when wetted by the paint but are easily sanded off once the paint is fully dry.

Above are a few of the second batch of bats (after one coat of paint).
The wet saw cuts are smooth and tight - almost polished. I've knocked the edges off with the sander and rounded off the 45° corners as well.
Clipping the corners at 45°, I recommend that, for even a rounded off 90° doesn't feel good if/when it whacks your hand; besides, the clipped corners are tougher.
In the shot, there's a kitchen squirt container, very handy for glazing; a cut in half sponge; a corner of a sponge, and some greenware.

Here's two of the first batch of bats.
I'd cut the corners and lengths with siding board shears.
The shears leave some crushing along the edges, which is fine for siding hung on a building, but not so much for this application, for little bits will eventually work loose and end up in the reclaim, so these edges were cut back a bit more with the tile saw. I'd tried for a rounded corner, eeh, they look a little ragged.
In the shot is a Skutt wheel, cut in half sponge, a one gallon plastic bucket (coming up on forty years, that bucket), and clothespin chamois keeper.

*Cement siding - HardiPlank here - has embossed wood grain pattern on the "show" side, mostly smooth on the back side.
We're using the back side, which is somewhat smoother than tile backer board's back side, per my assessment...
The plank thickness seems perfect, just enough to cover the bat pins.

Generally, pouring all the water over all the dry can result in a lump of dry stuck to the bottom of the bucket which is a bit harder to mix in - @Kelly in AK’s solution is another instance of patience doing the work while we do something else.

This one from my students. If you manage to wear the skin off your pinky, vet wrap is a good way to protect it. 

I've taken to using the web between the pointer finger and the next finger to compress lips. No extra reaching!
 
best,
Pres