neilestrick

I think you're probably dealing with a lot of inconsistencies in your materials. Especially the clay- it's a big unknown. I say simplify things as much as possible- if the engobe has been problematic for a long time, use a slip or something else instead, or start with a new recipe. Or even find a different approach to what you're trying to achieve in your work.

I think you're probably dealing with a lot of inconsistencies in your materials. Especially the clay- it's a big unknown. I say simplify things as much as possible- if the engobe has been problematic for a long time, use a slip or something else instead, or start with a new recipe. Or even find a different approach to what you're trying to achieve in your work.

I think that in the last few years we've figured out that fair amount of what we thought were glaze problems were actually clay problems, and bisque firing hotter was the solution. I was raised on 08 bisque, but knowing what I know now I would never do 08 again.
I prefer 04 bisque for my porcelain because any cooler than that and it's too absorbent for my glazing tastes. I think the stoneware bodies we use in my studio are a hair tight at 04, but I do it anyway because I'd rather have the stoneware a little tight than the porcelain a little loose.

8 sided? If yes, it's probably a 181. Those only pull about 22 amps, so you'll need a 30 amp breaker. It's only rated to cone 6, so not a good kiln if you plan to glaze fire to cone 5/6. You'll only get about 30 firings before you need to change elements firing that hot. You may be able to change out the elements with KM818 elements will pull about 26 amps and would bump the max temp rating to cone 9/10, but you'd need to double check that with Skutt first. That would also mean a larger breaker, like 35 or 40 amps. If you're going to run electrical for a kiln, put in 6 gauge wire so you can hook up a larger kiln in the future if needed and only have to change out the breaker, or at least run conduit that will handle at least three 6 gauge wires.

NOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!

Mark beat me to it. Tape the lids on, and put them in ziploc baggies. Also carry your reciepts so you can show theyr'e an acutal purchased item.

Mark beat me to it. Tape the lids on, and put them in ziploc baggies. Also carry your reciepts so you can show theyr'e an acutal purchased item.

I like the bolt method, too. With high temp ring terminals and washers on both sides it's a pretty secure system. Very low corrosion factor with stainless hardware. Similar to the L&L system but without the porcelain block.

Clean up the end of the element with a grinder like Mark said. The high temp ring terminal with a bolt through it should work.

No worries! I was just teasing you.

This kiln is a 240V kiln. Older 3 prong plug, yep. 
Yeah, I consulted with Paragon before posting here and their kiln tech told me the same thing... Well she said they do have the timers for the ones with two timers (like mine), but apparently some of these Duncan kilns had a single, combined timer that they don't have available anymore. Just saying this to spread the knowledge...
 

The rough areas look like it wasn't on thick enough. The pinholes could be from the firing schedule, poor bisque firing, or could just be from the texture of the clay itself. But start with dialing in  the application. Make sure you apply each coat of glaze with lots of glaze on your brush so it flows nicely, and apply each coat in the opposite direction of the previous coat. It takes practice, for sure.

The rough areas look like it wasn't on thick enough. The pinholes could be from the firing schedule, poor bisque firing, or could just be from the texture of the clay itself. But start with dialing in  the application. Make sure you apply each coat of glaze with lots of glaze on your brush so it flows nicely, and apply each coat in the opposite direction of the previous coat. It takes practice, for sure.

It is an oddball, but on that model the sitter is at the bottom. The floor slab is mounted with the bottom ring.

First, get those shelves out of there! If they slide around even a little bit they're going to break the bricks. The brick is quite thin where the element grooves are, and it doesn't take much to break them. Broken bricks will lower the value of the kiln. Also, put a piece of foam board under it when you transport it. Replacing a broken floor slab in that model is a real pain.
I believe it's an A-99B.  Max temp 2300, Amps 44.2, Watts 10612.
It's a little underpowered for its size, only rated to cone 8. It'll work for cone 5 work, though. If the lid and floor are in good condition, and none of the bricks are so broken that they need to be replaced, and shelves are included, I would offer it at $800 and haggle from there.

It is an oddball, but on that model the sitter is at the bottom. The floor slab is mounted with the bottom ring.

The rough areas look like it wasn't on thick enough. The pinholes could be from the firing schedule, poor bisque firing, or could just be from the texture of the clay itself. But start with dialing in  the application. Make sure you apply each coat of glaze with lots of glaze on your brush so it flows nicely, and apply each coat in the opposite direction of the previous coat. It takes practice, for sure.

Can you buy any commercial glaze products where you are via the internet? Commercial underglazes may solve the problem, like Amaco or Speedball products. They are available on Amazon if that's an option where you are.
I think the wild clay could definitely be the problem, but I'm not seeing popouts in all of the images so It may just be a fit issue. I'm also wondering if the borax in your recipe isn't part of the problem, because isn't borax soluble?

Can you buy any commercial glaze products where you are via the internet? Commercial underglazes may solve the problem, like Amaco or Speedball products. They are available on Amazon if that's an option where you are.
I think the wild clay could definitely be the problem, but I'm not seeing popouts in all of the images so It may just be a fit issue. I'm also wondering if the borax in your recipe isn't part of the problem, because isn't borax soluble?

For anyone else who may be looking at this thread and uses a Mac, the Preview app that comes standard on Macs will let you resize images.

Walk away. In addition to all the difficulties working on that type of kiln, the money needed to get it into working condition, and the difficulty of moving it, the insulation behind the bricks may or may not be something dangerous like asbestos. Being that old, my bet is that it's something bad.

Walk away. In addition to all the difficulties working on that type of kiln, the money needed to get it into working condition, and the difficulty of moving it, the insulation behind the bricks may or may not be something dangerous like asbestos. Being that old, my bet is that it's something bad.

Walk away. In addition to all the difficulties working on that type of kiln, the money needed to get it into working condition, and the difficulty of moving it, the insulation behind the bricks may or may not be something dangerous like asbestos. Being that old, my bet is that it's something bad.

Walk away. In addition to all the difficulties working on that type of kiln, the money needed to get it into working condition, and the difficulty of moving it, the insulation behind the bricks may or may not be something dangerous like asbestos. Being that old, my bet is that it's something bad.

A good magnesium matte glaze with a slow cooling can give that surface.