neilestrick

I have a full shelf on the bottom, but use half shelves after that.  I fire a lot of plates and platters, I have had no problems spanning the half shelves.  I appreciate the flexibility with the half shelves.  As well as being able to easily heft them into the kiln.
I use kiln washed cookies for my porcelain.

Yes, you just have to make sure they're sitting evenly. A waster slab across the joint is also helpful.

I prefer half shelves. More flexibility, easier loading, and half shelves tend to last longer. Posting gets awkward when using both full and half, because you end up having to use 4 posts on a  full shelf and they don't always sit evenly, which puts a lot of stress on them.

I prefer Corelite. They're about the same price and last longer.

Definitely build it right on a kiln shelf. I'd also put it on a waster slab. It's okay if the waster breaks, it'll still work. Keep the kiln shelf up on bricks or something that will allow you to get your fingers under the edge to pick it up without having to tip it.

Yes, you just have to make sure they're sitting evenly. A waster slab across the joint is also helpful.

I prefer half shelves. More flexibility, easier loading, and half shelves tend to last longer. Posting gets awkward when using both full and half, because you end up having to use 4 posts on a  full shelf and they don't always sit evenly, which puts a lot of stress on them.

@HenryBurlingame I own 8  of the 1/3 hp models and 1 of the 1/2hp models. I cannot tell the difference unless I have something really, really, really big on the wheel. I've centered 25 pounds on the 1/3hp models just fine. They can handle anything a Brent CXC can handle because they have a ton of torque despite the lower hp rating.
As for the controllers, there are 5 or 6 different adjustments that can be made in the Skutt controller, such as IR Comp, top speed, low speed and a couple others, so you can dial in the pedal exactly how you want it. If you like IR Comp then you can turn it up. It's there, they just turn it off at the factory. Brent only has top and bottom speed. The Skutt pedal also has a much longer travel, which gives you better control. Skutt parts will be cheaper, although you shouldn't need any parts for either brand for a long, long time. I don't know what changes they made with the new Red line, but they still offer the SSX drive, so it doesn't sound like they changed much.

Well I ended up emailing Rob Battey as suggested. Think I’m going to end up with the L&L e23T-3 with quad elements and vent sure system. Thanks again all!

Hi Neil, the bricks are 2.5" thick, there is no other relays, only the safety switch for the lid. I'll shoot Paragon an email. will post up anything I get back so it helps anyone else in the future. Its very close to the TNF233 but as you say theholes are punched rather than louvers in the terminal cover. 
 
Thanks David, Thats really interesting as I have another kiln that is 35amp and rated for a 40amp circuit, I'm not sure how thr rules differ in Australia though. I'll quiz my electrician. We tested amperage on that Kiln and was pulling around the 34.5amp mark when cycling on. 

There's certainly a lot about it that looks like Paragon, but also a lot that doesn't. The inside of the control box looks very Paragon. could be they made it to someone else's specs. 
For comparison, the L&L and Skutt kilns of that size pull 48 amps and are rated to cone 10. They are a bit overpowered, though, because the 27" tall version also pulls 48 amps and is rated to cone 10. The Paragon TNF233, which this kiln may very well be, is rated to cone 10 at 40 amps. I would definitely contact Paragon and see what they think. 
You have solid state relays. Are there any mechanical relays in there, too, that function as safety relays?
Are your bricks 2.5" thick or 3" thick? That will affect the peak temp as well.

Well I got a quote for running more electric out to the studio for an electric kiln as well as a quote for a concrete pad, constructing a simple kiln shed, and having a large propane tank installed for the gas kiln...  Starting to lean toward electric now holy cow 

Does it have a Kiln Sitter?
Start with the lid propped open an inch or two.
1. Bottom switch on. Wait 1 hour.
2. Second from bottom switch on. Wait 1 hour.
3. Close lid. Wait 1 hour.
4. Next switch on. Wait 1 hour.
5. Top switch on. If it has a Kiln Sitter, wait for the cone to bend the kiln shuts off. If it doesn't have a Sitter, you'll have to put cones in the kiln and watch through the peephole for them to bend.

The bricks look similar to Paragon, but a lot of kilns are made that way. Without seeing them in person I couldn't say if that blue kiln is a Paragon or not. What type of connectors does it use for the element feeder wires? The control box does not look like a Paragon to me because the vent holes are not the same. Paragon uses louvers, not holes, and a different color blue. Paragon elements may fit it, but they may not. Can you post a picture of the bricks where the elements transition from one row to the next?

Does it have a Kiln Sitter?
Start with the lid propped open an inch or two.
1. Bottom switch on. Wait 1 hour.
2. Second from bottom switch on. Wait 1 hour.
3. Close lid. Wait 1 hour.
4. Next switch on. Wait 1 hour.
5. Top switch on. If it has a Kiln Sitter, wait for the cone to bend the kiln shuts off. If it doesn't have a Sitter, you'll have to put cones in the kiln and watch through the peephole for them to bend.

Another way to get some great colors is to use salt. Soak wood chips in a saturated salt water, let them dry, then use them in the saggar. It can give great red, yellow, and orange colors.

As I mentioned in your other thread, cone 10 in a gas kiln is not the same as cone 10 in an electric kiln. It's about atmosphere, not temperature. There is no difference between cone 6 electric and cone 10 gas in terms of durability or quality of work. There are a small handful of glaze types that require a reduction atmosphere for them to work, and therefore need a gas kiln, but other than that you can do just as much in an electric kiln. Cone 6 has the benefit of more stability with colors, and a lot more options with commercially available glazes.  If you really like shino and tenmoku glazes, you need cone 10 reduction. They will not work in an electric kiln. If you don't have experience in firing a gas kiln, it's going to be a long hard learning curve, and a lot more expensive to get started. If you want faster success and a simpler process, go electric. 

Since it is happening with different colors of different brands, and different glazes, the problem is not with the underglazes or the glazes themselves, but rather the clay. When you say you've used 3 different white clays, what is the max firing temp for those clays? Were they all rated to 1300F? If so, that may be part of the problem. Using a clay that is made to mature at the temperature you're glaze firing to may solve the problem. When glaze firing to cone 05, were you using a body specifically made for low fire?
Does the underglaze shiver if i you don't put a clear glaze over it? 
Adding kaolin to slip is problematic, and adding slip at the wrong time (too dry) can also cause problems.
One other possibility, do you have lotion/moisturizer on your hands while touching the bisque? I've seen that cause crawling, but I suppose it could also cause shivering.

You can't go wrong with either one. They are very similar in construction aside from the element holders. Both have zone control, neither one requires element pins. The L&L will be easier to replace bricks, but if you're careful with your kiln you won't need to do that.
There's very little reason to fire to cone 10 in an electric kiln unless you're doing crystalline work. Glazes won't turn out the same as if fired in a gas kiln to cone 10, because most cone 10 glazes are made to fire in reduction. If your'e firing in oxidation, cone 6 is a much smarter way to go. Your kiln will last longer, your elements will last longer, and your firing and maintenance costs will be much lower. If you are going to do crystalline work, then the L&L JH model is the way to go. It's rated to cone 12, is built with K26 bricks, and has type S thermocouples, so it can handle the high temps much better.
Shop around for best pricing. 'Packages' aren't always the best deal. Since you're in Washington, I highly recommend calling Rob Battey at Northwest Potter's Supply if you go with the L&L. He's a great guy and has been providing tech support for L&L for years.

If you measure the resistance of the elements you can calculate the amperage draw. AFAIK it's not a Paragon, although the color is different. Pacific Kiln is a company in California, which may or may not be the same company. Their web site doesn't show any studio size kilns, but it might be worth sending them an email.

You can't go wrong with either one. They are very similar in construction aside from the element holders. Both have zone control, neither one requires element pins. The L&L will be easier to replace bricks, but if you're careful with your kiln you won't need to do that.
There's very little reason to fire to cone 10 in an electric kiln unless you're doing crystalline work. Glazes won't turn out the same as if fired in a gas kiln to cone 10, because most cone 10 glazes are made to fire in reduction. If your'e firing in oxidation, cone 6 is a much smarter way to go. Your kiln will last longer, your elements will last longer, and your firing and maintenance costs will be much lower. If you are going to do crystalline work, then the L&L JH model is the way to go. It's rated to cone 12, is built with K26 bricks, and has type S thermocouples, so it can handle the high temps much better.
Shop around for best pricing. 'Packages' aren't always the best deal. Since you're in Washington, I highly recommend calling Rob Battey at Northwest Potter's Supply if you go with the L&L. He's a great guy and has been providing tech support for L&L for years.

As I mentioned in your other thread, cone 10 in a gas kiln is not the same as cone 10 in an electric kiln. It's about atmosphere, not temperature. There is no difference between cone 6 electric and cone 10 gas in terms of durability or quality of work. There are a small handful of glaze types that require a reduction atmosphere for them to work, and therefore need a gas kiln, but other than that you can do just as much in an electric kiln. Cone 6 has the benefit of more stability with colors, and a lot more options with commercially available glazes.  If you really like shino and tenmoku glazes, you need cone 10 reduction. They will not work in an electric kiln. If you don't have experience in firing a gas kiln, it's going to be a long hard learning curve, and a lot more expensive to get started. If you want faster success and a simpler process, go electric. 

Also make sure your bat pins are tight.

The knocking is likely from the bat slipping. The oblong hole is not ideal, but that's how Brent makes them. There are other bats on the market that do not have oblong holes, like Northstar, but another solution is a BatMate or Bat Gripper. There's a few on the market but I know Xiem and Bailey both have a version. It's a think piece that sits under the bat and gives it more grip. My students love them.

Also make sure your bat pins are tight.