Pyewackette

Hi folks, going through some of my old techniques, and things I have figured out for myself and wondered about others tricks.
QotW: What is your favorite trick/hack that you have used to solve a problem when making pottery?
One of my favorites when working with cylinders or other thrown forms is to use an embroiders hoop to mark the line around a thrown form to mark an easy cut an angle to cut and then reverse the top portion 180 degrees and rejoin for pieces like salt pigs.
best,
Pres

I sharpen my trimming tools with a chainsaw file, and I do them when they feel like they’re starting to drag or I have to push too hard, similar to my kitchen knives. 
I use a Do All for most things, and I find they last about 18 months-2 years before the square edge is too worn to keep an edge. They’re about $20 Canadian, so I figure that’s pretty good value. Dolan doesn’t ship internationally.

Pres what color of stone do you use on your Dremel for sharpening.   I haven't tried sharpening a trimming tool,  I have a bunch of old ones in a bin.    Now  and then I will have someone show a interest in working with clay and want me to give them lessons.    I will give them a few basic tools (old ones)  and a bag of clay,   after teaching them a few basic hand building techniques I tell them to make a pot and bring it back to me.  I have never had anyone return with a pot for me to fire.  I fell in love with clay when I was 12 and my art teacher gave us a ball of clay.  She  said we could make anything we wanted with it.  I squished and rolled the clay around and discovered it was magic,  I could make anything.    Denice

I have one expensive trimming tool, Dolan, carbon steel. That thing is as sharp today as it ever was, no fuss, amazing. The rest, the ones I actually use most of the time, I made from various steel strips: wiper blade inserts, rake tines, street sweeper bristles. Those tools I sharpen regularly. I use a file. I just feel the edge, if it needs it, I sharpen. They often need it. Takes about thirty seconds. I throw them out when the blade is too thin to work (I make a new blade, keep the handle).
The Dolan never needs it. In fact, the only time I remember cutting myself with a trimming tool was with that one. 

Shut everything down and unbricked the door as fast as I could. There’s a strange kind of panic when you think your phone is cooking. It’s a new feeling. Sure enough it was cooking. When it was cool enough to handle I peeled off the melted gooey case and of course tried to turn it on. Half the screen was gray, the other half looked like nothing happened. I was able to plug it into the computer and back it up, which seemed like a miracle, another new feeling. I went and got a new phone, and all was well with the world. I also ran an extension cord and lamp to the kiln.
Makes me smile every time I think about it. What a dork! Haha! 

I don’t know Rae, think your bad experience isn’t something you messed up on. You are too nice a person to anticipate someone being so nasty.  The rest of us, yeah, we messed up! 

Most everything like the seven.
The glazes I'm using don't move much.
The slight groove at the juncture of the wall and foot does serve as a glaze catch, however, I'd started doing that to make it easier to get a sharp glaze edge*.
There's a spiral mark between the chatter marking and the edge of the foot, which could help as a glaze catch.
The spiral and chatter marks are mainly for interest and to provide a bit of texture for grasping.
The foot ring itself provides edges for fingertips, particularly for washing (slippery!)...


* I tape the foot ring off with masking tape.
Tooling the top edge of the foot ring provides a nice sharp line to tape to.
The tape gives me something to hold on to when pushing the ware down into the glaze.
I pull the tape whilst the glaze is still damp, much less dust, and a cleaner edge.
I'm dipping the outside glaze(s), upside down, hence controlling the glaze layer near the foot ring is straightforward.

The thing I’ve learned most from my customers (that I didn’t learn in other customer service jobs) is that you should never underestimate how you can affect people with your work.
I love doing the romantic gifts for folks. Birthday or anniversary gifts, moving in with his first boyfriend gift, stuff like that. The sweet, building your life kind of things. But I never dreamed pots could help others with things like grief.
Warning: You will want tissues for this one. Also, cancer content. 
Background: I make mugs with swear words on them. The “f bomb” is the most popular. I know, not everyone loves them, and if you don’t, that’s perfectly okay. But the people that do love them REALLY love them. I started making them as a bit of a money maker, frankly.  I thought they were gimmicky, but whatever. I still made them nicely. Most people find them funny or cheeky, have a bit of a laugh, buy one for themselves or a friend and get on with their day. But one Saturday a couple of years ago, I was surfing social media and I came across this post that had tagged me, and it brought me to tears. 
Someone had bought one of my “f___” mugs at a consignment store. She was speaking about being a palliative care nurse, and dealing with her dad’s late stage cancer diagnosis that he had received the month before.
I can’t write it better than she did, and this is posted with permission.
"As a nurse I can manage the crap out of this...mostly. As a daughter my vision and skills are clouded. As a daughter there are not strong enough words to say how hard this is. And I see palliation and family care in a whole new light. But I really wish I didn't have to see it in this light. So, I will cope with cuss words and inappropriate humour. I will cope with coffee and Jesus. I will cope with love and support from friends. I will cope with hugs and shoulders to lean on when I have to go to work. I will cope with alcohol when needed. And I will continue to find support in unexpected places... like a mug that sums all of this up in one word."
 
 
So that was a big one for me. I viewed these mugs as the least of what I made. Like a lot of us I’m sure, I question the value of what I do sometimes. When I do, I try and remember that post, and remind myself it’s important to keep showing up to make the things. 

I used to have a stack of pots that I really didn't like  and I would let visitors to my studio take one home.   I would watch them ooh and ahh over them  and it slowly started to sink in that  people can have very different taste in art.   Some people would look for the piece that had the most imperfections,  now I know not to throw those away.     Denice

Good question!
I feel and think (both!) that I'm just starting out with trying and choosing clay bodies ...I've found three, err, four clays that I like, three of which a nearby* supplier carries.
I still like periodically rotating from white to red to buff/brown.
All the factors Pres listed apply for me, excepting "word from others..."
For white and buff stoneware, I like low absorption (less than 1% preferred, else 1.5%), almost never has "gassy bits**" and tolerates a cone or more overfiring without issue.
For red stoneware a bit higher absorption is ok (unless/until I find something better), almost never has gassy bits, tolerates just over a half cone or so overfiring.
My low COE liner glaze has to fit Very Well, and my colored glazes have to fit well.
The clays I've tried and won't go back to have one or more of these characteristics: expensive, high rate of gassy bits failure, my low COE liner glaze doesn't fit (crazing), misbehaves horribly when overfired a wee tiny bit (fizzing, bubbling, turns purble, melts/slumps), absorbs water too quickly while working (giant globs of absorbent grog in there), is just too sandy/lumpy and or the sand is sharp (is there any good reason for sharp sand in clay?), varies considerably/intolerably batch to batch.
When next buying clay (almost certainly the same three clays I'm using now), I'll want to know if the recipe has changed since last purchase.
There's the talc change thing, and I've already had a "this is Totally Different Clay" experience with another vendor's product. Even if assured it is same, I will test! !!
Likely I'll also get a fifty-pound box of something to try, which is how I discovered the speckled buff that I really (really) like.
I prefer the clay right out of the bag to be a bit softer/wetter than I want to work with, which is easily remedied by a turn on the wedging board.
Somewhat related, I don't want clay right out of the store to be "old" already - fresh, please; nor do I want clay that's too stiff/dry for my taste.
Stacking the boxes together in a shady and cool spot, then covering tightly with a tarp seems to help keep the clays "young' ...now I wrap the boxes with moving wrap before stacking them up, seems to help. The moving wrap is like a gigantic version of the cling wrap used to wrap food.
 
*the nearby vendor is just under 100 miles away, IMCO in Sacramento. They make a white and red that I like, and they carry a Laguna product that I've tried and like. Another California clay vendor has a white and red stoneware I like, but they are further away, and I like the nearer vendor's clays a bit better, not Just because they are cheaper, no, the white is more consistent, and the red has better working properties, tolerates overfiring better, and is less absorbent ...and their clays are less expensive.
**where there's a large pit/hole in the glaze, which I'm guessing is due to a large piece/chunk/bit of something that off-gassed enough to create a volcano-like effect that's too big to heal over. I'm willing to tolerate this when it doesn't happen very often, at all, like one of twenty wares - not so much one of seven.

Added: That Dragon Fruit clay has been whisperin' to me!
 

Slabs are easy and fun--they can drape thin circles over upturned cans/bowls to make free-from bowl shapes (flatten an area on the bottom while still soft). They could make pendants, either free-form or using cutter-shapes (I don't suggest the key fobs tho--that was a bad idea LOL).  Large free-form spoon rests and shallow catchall dishes are also fun. Stamping the slabs 1st before forming makes them look more dramatic when glazed.  Also tea light holders are easy-just need to be flat on top, don't even need a well (top left in the spoon rest pic). If there's no time to get good clay stamps, Home Depot has plenty of drawer knobs that work well. 

Hi Pot, Welcome to the Forum!
Good question. I'll circle back and post links to further reading later...
Meanwhile, I work in a single car garage space (previous Studio was also a single garage space!), which does have ventilation options, however, much of the year is rather hot, else chilly. 
I try to keep after the floor with a wet mop - an actual commercial bucket, wringer and mop. Having the floor accessible helps there. The mop is handy for cleaning off shoes/sandals as well - don't track it around!
In general, any dry clay - bits, pieces, splatter, slip - can easily become dust. Hence, I'm looking to keep dry clay to a minimum, wipe off the work surfaces, tools, wheel. No waving cloth about that has dry clay embedded in (rags, clothing, the dreaded canvas, ugh).
The only dry clay I want to see is greenware awaiting first fire (on shelves, out of the way and protected), and clay to be reclaimed (stored away).
I'm seeing the wedging station being a dust source, also trimming at the wheel.
There are strategies for minimizing those dusts, tbc.
The typical dust generators I see are:
  stepping on clay that's on the floor
  dry clay, slip, glaze, etc. that's disturbed and flies into the air
  airborne dust that's settled, then re-launched, repeat, repeat...
It's nice to have ventilation, however, I try not to roll up the door or open the window if there's any dust to be kicked up by moving air - clean up time.
Best case, my Studio is relatively dust free when I start a session, then I've cleaned up at the end for next time.

Likely "Search Engine Optimization"

I have been a free weebly user for a really LONG time. many many years now. I also was with square as soon as they started. That all said Square bought out Weebly and now have only a fee based system for weebly square . I will add that Mea also turned me on to Weebly long ago. The flat rate for a simple pay for a year site was 110$ paid up front. I have yet to be forced into that as my free site is still running (i'm not looking ever for e-commerce). When it does go away I'll pay up. I'm near the end of wanting much of a website . It does drive my long time customers  spread over the west my way and does pay for itself in spades when I have to pay for it.I'm getting to not want more work and my wholsale is plenty . I did just send out 42 mugs to one customer who realized I will be dead and he will run out of my mugs so he bought a lifetime supply he said.Now thats a weird thought for me.

So, it sounds like you’re trying to figure out how to manage customer expectations, and figure out where your policies are in relation to your booth neighbours.
If other vendors are setting the expectation that customers get a discount on venmo transactions, that seems odd, because it’s all electronically recorded even with the personal account option. Most farmers I work with deal with million dollar operations, so they’re subject to RevCan scrutiny and I can’t see it being that different in the US. So it’s probably worth talking some shop with your booth neighbours. Are they in fact giving discounts, or is the sales tax buried in their sticker price? As long as it’s documented and recorded on the receipt properly, that could be a viable possibility, or a workaround for yourself. As long as your area doesn’t have a rule against it, that is. 
If the other vendors aren’t setting an example of cash or Venmo discounts and someone gives you side eye about taxes, this usually means that you’ve got some customer audacity on your hands, and there’s a lot of ways this can be dealt with. If anyone ever needs help with scripting, I’m pretty good at it, and I can walk folks through the principles of how to do it yourself. You can set boundaries and hold them firmly without being rude or harsh.
Personally, I don’t discount the sales tax percent for cash sales. I don’t offer my customers explanations, because that leaves wiggle room for arguments I’m not interested in having. “It’s not my policy to do that,” or “RevCan takes a dim view of that,” is the most they usually get. Your customers aren’t entitled to your financial practices.
 
 

I felt like the results thread was a nice place to see all the work finished, but I also liked seeing the works in progress posted on the actual topic. I feel like the results thread was a lot of extra work for you Joel and we should have just posted our works in progress and final pictures as went in the same place. 

A small amount of Nerd's reclaim mix makes a noticeable difference in four to five gallons of reclaim slurry, in my experience.
I'd tried between a quarter to third cup of the recommended mixture, eight parts of silica, one part OM4 ball clay, one part feldspar.
Now I'll use it if the reclaim contains significant amounts of re-reclaim and/or re-re-claim...

Ok thanks all for that info that is invaluable. Right now my plan and process has been saving every drop of throwing slurry I can and mix that with dry scraps and water as needed. In the past few days I made my first batch and it did not seem to be short at all wedging it, the only difference I could see was visually maybe not as white. I did use it for a ton of handles and, so far at least, seems ok.
To be honest, if I could get away with just using it for attachments and random things that would be a win in my book. Regardless, I will test throwing it at some point just to see if it does need anything added as you suggested Min. 

I shape simple extruded handles by  putting them inside oval cookie cutters. Extrude the strap, let it set up slightly so you can handle it without messing it up, then push it against the inside of the cookie cutter to get the shape. Leave it in there until it's set up enough that it will hold shape when you take it out. Makes a nice curve that's comfortable to hold. You can buy multiples of the same size cutter from folks on Etsy who 3D print them.

I appreciate the updates on this @Hulk, I made a few bats of Hardibacker for my partner about a year ago but she hasn’t used them yet! My wheel doesn’t have holes for bat pins so I haven’t bothered to try them either (I’m accustomed to using roofing felt bats). 
We both regularly use it for ware boards though. The belt sander is a worthwhile step. 

I believe that you could set up a live feed with most any older camcorder or a recent digital using ports in the TV connected to the USB post in the camera. Does the TV have a model make and model # where you could look up the manual online if you don't have it?
 
best,
Pres

Pulled handles came up in t'other thread.
Much as I'd like to practice pulling several from a large handful, I've a hard time supporting much in my left where the right can do the other part, and reversed hands is worse!
I'll roll between sixty to ninety grams of clay (for the usual wares - more for a big pitcher, teapot, etc.) around on my wedging board to dry it a bit, then roll it into a tapered carrot shape before pulling it.
It's rather cheating?
I'm going for a tapered roll that's close to the final I want, with a flare at the big end to hold on to, then hang it from whilst it firms up.
It works for me! ...starting out, I'd make/pull two or three for each ware, and pick the "best" one. Hmm, that went away a while ago...

@Rae Reich I got my pool noodles for $1.25 at $ Tree or 98c at Valdemart.  Valdemart only has them in season, but you can usually find them year round at at least some $ Trees (in xmas colors at xmas).  They are fatter/thicker than pipe insulation, though I've used pipe insulation as well.
1/2" pipe insulation is currently 1.78 for a 6' section at my local Home Despot.  3/4" pipe insulation isn't available in a 6' length atm, but a package of 4 in 3' lengths is 4.53, or about 1.13 each (2.26 for 6' worth).  Neither are as thick and cushy as a pool noodle.
I'm a pool noodle fan.  I can fill a 5 gal bucket for watering plants using a pool noodle from my bathroom faucet (right next to my plant room).  I used them to stabilize my EMT trellis on 8' T posts (using PVC T's to support the conduit).  I stick them on shorter trellises so people don't put an eye out running into an exposed conduit end.  I use pool noodles to protect the edges of my bats when I'm schlepping them.  I use them to roll up quilts as I'm working on them.  Etc etc etc.
Plus - PURTY COLORS!

The last time I changed clays, I had to change all of my glazes at the same time because I went from cone 10 to cone 6, in addition to going from a white clay to a much darker one.
I found working on darker clays in general was a shift in thinking about decoration. The darker clay is a much more active player, as opposed to a passive canvas I find. You really have no choice but to work with it, rather than trying to overcome it. Even in decoration styles where you’re covering the red clay with a white slip in order to add brighter colours, there’s still evidence of it.  For me, it was a whole mindset shift when it came to decorating. 

I picked some asparagus Sunday and mixed it with some tulips in a bouquet for my mother in-law.    She lives in a senior living facility,  they have sheltered in for 8 weeks now and not allowed any visitors.   The food is alright but they haven't had any asparagus on the menu since she moved in 6 months ago,  she loves it raw or cooked.   We watched the staff from our car gather the items to be delivered to her,  they noticed the asparagus bouquet and got the strangest looks on their faces.   She called us later and was bursting with joy over her unusual bouquet.   She is 97 and everyone thinks of her as their mother so she had received lot of candy and flowers.  She said the asparagus was the best present she had received in a long time.     Denice