PeterH

I fire to cone 6 in my studio, and I have not seen Palladium look like any of those 3 tiles. When thin it goes green, not lighter metallic.  When thick enough to go metallic it runs off the pot. I'm not willing to change firing schedules to satisfy one glaze, so my students won't touch it any more because it has been nearly impossible for them to use successfully.

The only reason I sold my kickwheel is because I was 68 at the time and was having trouble kicking up the wheel fast enough.   I also had my knee separate on vacation,  a doctor took a  x-ray of it and wrap it up.  He told me that I had extremely strong bones in that leg and asked how I did it.   I told him it was my kicking leg  I used on my wheel for throwing.   I used that wheel for forty years and it has gone to a new home.    I think a potter should use  the wheel of their choice,  to me a wheel is personable.   Denice

Have never tried it, but remember reading somewhere in this forum that skunk hair works quite well.  Don't recall who posted it, but they mentioned keeping a bag and gloves in their car, so they could collect such hair from road-kill when the opportunity arose.  

A good example of the type of video you might hope to find, which also illustrates a potential problem. Pres explains the technique works because it helps align the clay particles in a good way, but this is not obvious from seeing the video. You really want to know both how and why, although seeing how can help you discover why.
 

Firstly I think Callie is right that you may have more success looking for videos. The short video format might favour highlighting little tips and tricks. I suspect that "the East" may tend towards a culture of immersion in the process rather than highlighting details of the process.
Sorry, couldn't find any books, but a few minor hits and follow-on questions on the pros and cons of:
- types of wheel: electric, kick & banding
- throwing vs trimming
- asking Denice
https://www.benthampottery.com/throwing-pots-left-handed/
Throwing Pots Left Handed
...
Throwing is a two handed process. In Japan they spin the wheel the other way and that is nothing to do with right or left handedness. Just carry on as normal. The psychology is interesting. Potentially the focus may be on the inside instead of the outside of the pot which affects the results in an interesting way
...
I’ve been throwing for 43 years, teaching for 20: left handed potters throwing counter clockwise have the advantage, as the left hand is inside, and easier to control the form that way.
...
I am left handed and learned right handed. All you are doing is having the strong hand inside the form like they do in Japan. Handedness isn’t important on an electric non-kick wheel.
...
I find that the issue isn’t often with throwing but with trimming. Most people can learn to throw either way, but trimming is a whole other story. I teach with my wheel turning clockwise and just explain and demonstrate the different hand positions
...
Given that for most of us our strongest hand is also the one with the finest control  I'm not even sure that having the same spin for both throwing and trimming is necessarily optimum. (Although constantly switching may outweigh any advantages.)
A couple of videos  from 
Trimming Mugs/bowls Without The Wheel
https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/13230-trimming-mugsbowls-without-the-wheel/?do=findComment&comment=97096
Pedantically a misnomer, as both videos show trimming on a wheel-head, but using it like a banding-wheel.
https://youtu.be/f64J6C48ZSo
https://youtu.be/3mmJwnhPivI
Couldn't find anything significant on electrified kick wheels, but did find this.
Hopefully technology is advancing towards a combined electric/kick wheel where you only need to kick where there are positive artistic advantages in doing so. As long-term kick-wheel use could be hard on the body: although maybe artistically good for the soul.
So my only conclusion is you consider which wheel/spin combination works "best" for each of your activities: such as
- opening-out
- main forming
- finishing-off
- trimming.
Is there a clear winner, or is some sort of mixed strategy better?
@Denice any comments? You obviously have some regrets.

It's my understanding that  copper carb releases carbon dioxide + water in the 300-320C range but then at 1050C it loses oxygen as it restructures (confirmed in this John Britt article). Since you are not firing as high as this it could continue to be an issue re bubbles. 
Re zinc, I think that if you are going to try it as an auxiliary flux I would be looking at using a frit that contains zinc rather than zinc oxide given that it is not an active flux at low temps below 1085C. (from Hamer's Dictionary of Materials and Techniques).

Mostly throwing large amounts of items on a slow wheel with soft clay is an exercise in economy of motion. In the absence of knowing exactly what you’re doing/not doing, it’s hard to troubleshoot exactly. A good resource to check out might be YouTube though, because sometimes a video can reveal a lot in a short amount of time. If you find it difficult to watch a video tutorial, something that can help is adjusting the playback speed. But if you need text versions, I’ll tag @PeterH, as he’s got a gift for tracking down all kinds of good articles. 
I’m curious as to why you’d want to use a kick wheel if you’re going in to production pottery though. Kick wheels tend to be harder on the body than electric ones, and that’s an important consideration when you’re looking at a job that can have a high propensity for repetitive motion injuries.
Production pottery of any kind is about economy of motion and making things efficiently, so that you can make a lot. Any choice made about how you work that isn’t about efficiency has to have a compelling reason to be included in your process.  If you’re using a particular technique that takes more time, you have to find ways of offsetting that elsewhere in the process. Or the results have to be able to provide enough value in the finished work to be worth the effort. 
 

"...I wouldn't be surprised if your problem was related to differences in inside and outside glaze application."
Perhaps sequence and/or timing involved there.

The "higher heat" idea was explored in this thread
... but I wouldn't be surprised if your problem was related to differences in inside and outside glaze application.

"Is it correct to say that if a glaze/clay combination does not craze at cone 5, then it should not craze at a higher cone firing?"
Good question.
imo, maybe!
"Maybe" on account of the crazing or not crazing may not matter so much if the clay isn't fully mature or is over fired.
For clays that take a higher cone without misbehaving, yes.

In my experience (limited, of course!), some clays have a wider firing range, while others are very much more sensitive to over firing.
Three clays, in particular - a red, buff, and a black clay - that I've tried matured at a solid cone 5 but misbehaved when fired into the top of cone 6 range.
"Fully mature" - where the clay is dense, strong, and has low absorbency*, err, as low as the particular clay can reasonably get, that is.
"Over fired" - where clay has begun to slump/melt, bloat, fizz/bubble...
This article This amazing difference 45 micron silica can make (digitalfire.com) got me thinking.
I wonder if my glaze fitting struggles were related to 200 mesh silica (which is what I have)?
If so, then, would more heat work help dissolve the silica?
If so, then, would more and/or more aggressive fluxes help dissolve the silica?
If so, would a drop & hold (after peak temp) help dissolve the silica?
I don't know.
The solution involved tweaking the formula to reduce COE, however, I'd adopted drop & hold at about the same time.
I'd like to have clay and glaze combinations that can take a half cone or more of "excess" heat work without problems.
The aforementioned sensitive clays, I've found other red and buff clays (haven't tried any other black clays yet).
Keep on with cone packs on each level, keep notes, and test (test, test)!
*article on maturity Maturity (digitalfire.com)
 

+1
There are also some very useful sites on the web, e.g.  https://digitalfire.com
Just picking up on your reference to lead (and I agree it's best not used).
"Safe" a somewhat conditional term.
- The magnificent lead-glazed wall tiles that were still around in older buildings in the 60's would still - IMHO- be quite safe. (Hard to misuse on a dry vertical surface subject to minimal contact.)
- OTOH  I remember reading of a lead glazed milk jug (which was probably quite safe to use for milk). But the owners squeezed orange juice into it every evening and left it in the fridge overnight to serve with breakfast!  Definitely risky. But how do you know what your friends/customers are going to do with your pots? 
Some craft potters choose to use "liner" glazes for surfaces likely to come into contact with food.
https://digitalfire.com/glossary/liner+glaze
Liner-glazing is a very good way to assure that your ware has a durable and leach resistant surface. It also signals customers that you care about this.
https://digitalfire.com/glossary/lead+in+ceramic+glazes
Lead is a melter in ceramic glazes and performs exceptionally well and must be misused to be toxic. It is also now environmentally pervasive. It is toxic and cumulative at any level of exposure.
... and had a history of frequent misuse, hence the [slightly over] reaction to its use.

Years ago I moved from a soft water area (Liverpool) to a hard water area (Essex), and my skin stopped wrinkling when I had a long baths.  (Also I needed to use more soap, as hard water reduces its effectiveness.)
A suggestion that the effects of moving  from hard water to soft may be self-correcting over time.
https://kidshealth.org/en/kids/wrinkly-fingers.html
I suppose you might try experimenting with:
- pre-exposure skin/barrier creams
- slightly hardening the water you use for throwing (slightly because it may effect the clay)
https://sciencing.com/make-hard-water-8191733.html
https://www.usgs.gov/special-topics/water-science-school/science/hardness-water
General guidelines for classification of waters are: 0 to 60 mg/L (milligrams per liter) as calcium carbonate is classified as soft; 61 to 120 mg/L as moderately hard; 121 to 180 mg/L as hard; and more than 180 mg/L as very hard.

Atlanta refs to confirm your suspicions about water hardness.
https://www.atlantisplumbing.com/articles/city-water-vs-well-water/
City Water Vs. Well Water
2. Generally speaking, well water is hard water so a water softener is recommended for homes that use well water.
https://www.hydroflow-usa.com/georgia-water-hardness
Georgia water is considered soft water. The average water hardness for the Georgia resident is around 60 PPM. Atlanta, the most populous Georgia city has a water hardness level of 21 PPM which according to USGS water hardness measures is very soft.
PS In this context mg/L = mg/kg = PPM

If by waste mold you mean a sculptor's mold that cannot be removed from the casting without being destroyed ...
I think the answer has to be no, as the fragile casting would not survive any process that required the the mold to be destroyed to free it.
It may be possible to make a reusable multi-part slip-casting mold from the original clay master. If this can be done without undercuts which would prevent freeing the casting from the mold.
>The thing is that i have a larger sculpture ...
... although large slip-filled molds are heavy and must retain their form during man-handling: e.g. use of natches for registration, holding things firmly together with straps, ...

Years ago I moved from a soft water area (Liverpool) to a hard water area (Essex), and my skin stopped wrinkling when I had a long baths.  (Also I needed to use more soap, as hard water reduces its effectiveness.)
A suggestion that the effects of moving  from hard water to soft may be self-correcting over time.
https://kidshealth.org/en/kids/wrinkly-fingers.html
I suppose you might try experimenting with:
- pre-exposure skin/barrier creams
- slightly hardening the water you use for throwing (slightly because it may effect the clay)
https://sciencing.com/make-hard-water-8191733.html
https://www.usgs.gov/special-topics/water-science-school/science/hardness-water
General guidelines for classification of waters are: 0 to 60 mg/L (milligrams per liter) as calcium carbonate is classified as soft; 61 to 120 mg/L as moderately hard; 121 to 180 mg/L as hard; and more than 180 mg/L as very hard.

Atlanta refs to confirm your suspicions about water hardness.
https://www.atlantisplumbing.com/articles/city-water-vs-well-water/
City Water Vs. Well Water
2. Generally speaking, well water is hard water so a water softener is recommended for homes that use well water.
https://www.hydroflow-usa.com/georgia-water-hardness
Georgia water is considered soft water. The average water hardness for the Georgia resident is around 60 PPM. Atlanta, the most populous Georgia city has a water hardness level of 21 PPM which according to USGS water hardness measures is very soft.
PS In this context mg/L = mg/kg = PPM

Years ago I moved from a soft water area (Liverpool) to a hard water area (Essex), and my skin stopped wrinkling when I had a long baths.  (Also I needed to use more soap, as hard water reduces its effectiveness.)
A suggestion that the effects of moving  from hard water to soft may be self-correcting over time.
https://kidshealth.org/en/kids/wrinkly-fingers.html
I suppose you might try experimenting with:
- pre-exposure skin/barrier creams
- slightly hardening the water you use for throwing (slightly because it may effect the clay)
https://sciencing.com/make-hard-water-8191733.html
https://www.usgs.gov/special-topics/water-science-school/science/hardness-water
General guidelines for classification of waters are: 0 to 60 mg/L (milligrams per liter) as calcium carbonate is classified as soft; 61 to 120 mg/L as moderately hard; 121 to 180 mg/L as hard; and more than 180 mg/L as very hard.

Atlanta refs to confirm your suspicions about water hardness.
https://www.atlantisplumbing.com/articles/city-water-vs-well-water/
City Water Vs. Well Water
2. Generally speaking, well water is hard water so a water softener is recommended for homes that use well water.
https://www.hydroflow-usa.com/georgia-water-hardness
Georgia water is considered soft water. The average water hardness for the Georgia resident is around 60 PPM. Atlanta, the most populous Georgia city has a water hardness level of 21 PPM which according to USGS water hardness measures is very soft.
PS In this context mg/L = mg/kg = PPM

Years ago I moved from a soft water area (Liverpool) to a hard water area (Essex), and my skin stopped wrinkling when I had a long baths.  (Also I needed to use more soap, as hard water reduces its effectiveness.)
A suggestion that the effects of moving  from hard water to soft may be self-correcting over time.
https://kidshealth.org/en/kids/wrinkly-fingers.html
I suppose you might try experimenting with:
- pre-exposure skin/barrier creams
- slightly hardening the water you use for throwing (slightly because it may effect the clay)
https://sciencing.com/make-hard-water-8191733.html
https://www.usgs.gov/special-topics/water-science-school/science/hardness-water
General guidelines for classification of waters are: 0 to 60 mg/L (milligrams per liter) as calcium carbonate is classified as soft; 61 to 120 mg/L as moderately hard; 121 to 180 mg/L as hard; and more than 180 mg/L as very hard.

Atlanta refs to confirm your suspicions about water hardness.
https://www.atlantisplumbing.com/articles/city-water-vs-well-water/
City Water Vs. Well Water
2. Generally speaking, well water is hard water so a water softener is recommended for homes that use well water.
https://www.hydroflow-usa.com/georgia-water-hardness
Georgia water is considered soft water. The average water hardness for the Georgia resident is around 60 PPM. Atlanta, the most populous Georgia city has a water hardness level of 21 PPM which according to USGS water hardness measures is very soft.
PS In this context mg/L = mg/kg = PPM

Years ago I moved from a soft water area (Liverpool) to a hard water area (Essex), and my skin stopped wrinkling when I had a long baths.  (Also I needed to use more soap, as hard water reduces its effectiveness.)
A suggestion that the effects of moving  from hard water to soft may be self-correcting over time.
https://kidshealth.org/en/kids/wrinkly-fingers.html
I suppose you might try experimenting with:
- pre-exposure skin/barrier creams
- slightly hardening the water you use for throwing (slightly because it may effect the clay)
https://sciencing.com/make-hard-water-8191733.html
https://www.usgs.gov/special-topics/water-science-school/science/hardness-water
General guidelines for classification of waters are: 0 to 60 mg/L (milligrams per liter) as calcium carbonate is classified as soft; 61 to 120 mg/L as moderately hard; 121 to 180 mg/L as hard; and more than 180 mg/L as very hard.

Atlanta refs to confirm your suspicions about water hardness.
https://www.atlantisplumbing.com/articles/city-water-vs-well-water/
City Water Vs. Well Water
2. Generally speaking, well water is hard water so a water softener is recommended for homes that use well water.
https://www.hydroflow-usa.com/georgia-water-hardness
Georgia water is considered soft water. The average water hardness for the Georgia resident is around 60 PPM. Atlanta, the most populous Georgia city has a water hardness level of 21 PPM which according to USGS water hardness measures is very soft.
PS In this context mg/L = mg/kg = PPM

My first impression that it's not a normal  crack pattern, which are often well described by
Hierarchical crack pattern as formed by successive domain divisions Pt 1
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/235540544_Hierarchical_crack_pattern_as_formed_by_successive_domain_divisions_I_Temporal_and_geometrical_hierarchy

Which seem to have a family resemblance to many crackle glazes, and this crackle slip
https://glazy.org/recipes/56903

... which isn't looking too like Aneta Regel's work to me.

Perhaps this is because there are "large" grains inside the shrinking "slip", causing both local "hot-spots" in the tension and impeding the free propogation of the crack within the mixture.

Is the video you mention the Ceramic Review ""masterclass"?
The accompanying article is at
https://www.ceramicreview.com/articles/material-beauty-2/
PS A couple of quotes I found interesting.
https://tlmagazine.com/nomad-vibrant-colours-and-playfulness/
Stone (both presented and represented in her work) makes an important contribution to the materiality of Regel’s artistic practice. Her technique of mixing porcelain with gravel, placing stones into the clay, and subsequently allowing the clay to shrink and crack around the rock inside the kiln makes for a sensational sort of indeterminacy as the artwork rises to the challenge of forming and reforming itself.
https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/raining-stones-aneta-regel/xAGlSpRuwPcv-g

 
 

Yes and no.  It all depends upon how the model was treated.
As Peter suggests "waste molds" are really only intended to be one time objects. However, sometimes they are so labor intensive that you just want to use it to make a test piece. (To see if it works.) 
Did you have to use lots of mold sealer to make the waste mold? (in other words, is the waste mold really "dirty" from the making process?) 
There have been many times that I have used a waste mold to make a test casting. However, I accepted the fact that it might not turn out, as expected, and it was "just a test".
ps. if the mold parts are "dirty" washing them will help and waiting for them to dry is a good lesson in self-discipline.

Is the video you mention the Ceramic Review ""masterclass"?
The accompanying article is at
https://www.ceramicreview.com/articles/material-beauty-2/
PS A couple of quotes I found interesting.
https://tlmagazine.com/nomad-vibrant-colours-and-playfulness/
Stone (both presented and represented in her work) makes an important contribution to the materiality of Regel’s artistic practice. Her technique of mixing porcelain with gravel, placing stones into the clay, and subsequently allowing the clay to shrink and crack around the rock inside the kiln makes for a sensational sort of indeterminacy as the artwork rises to the challenge of forming and reforming itself.
https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/raining-stones-aneta-regel/xAGlSpRuwPcv-g

 
 

Is the video you mention the Ceramic Review ""masterclass"?
The accompanying article is at
https://www.ceramicreview.com/articles/material-beauty-2/
PS A couple of quotes I found interesting.
https://tlmagazine.com/nomad-vibrant-colours-and-playfulness/
Stone (both presented and represented in her work) makes an important contribution to the materiality of Regel’s artistic practice. Her technique of mixing porcelain with gravel, placing stones into the clay, and subsequently allowing the clay to shrink and crack around the rock inside the kiln makes for a sensational sort of indeterminacy as the artwork rises to the challenge of forming and reforming itself.
https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/raining-stones-aneta-regel/xAGlSpRuwPcv-g

 
 

if its just been bisqued bisfix will work fine for this. See above video
There are other menders that work as well like Marks mender and highfire mender for glaze wares-I have used them all

Bisque Fix?
 

I know zilch about wheels, but loud pops can be caused by an electrolytic capacitor blowing.
Can you post a picture of the component side of the circuit board?