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oldlady

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Posts posted by oldlady

  1. all the advice you have been given is valuable.   you will learn how to treat the  clay so it is just right to work with.

    sheetrock will dry out the clay.   it is great for drying clay after it has been shaped the way it is to remain but it will suck out the moisture as you work with it.   put it aside for later.

    stop wedging brand new clay out of the bag.  you cannot get air out of that kind of clay, a huge machine has already done that.   just slice a piece that will come out thicker than you intend to use and flatten it as quickly as you can.  you might put a pillowcase over a regular piece of plywood, spray an amount of water that will dampen, not wet it, and roll on that.  you can use a spray bottle to get a slight sheen of water onto the clay as you roll it.  as quickly as the sheen  disappears, roll out from the center into each direction.   flip and repeat until the clay is larger and as thin as you want.

    you might be trying to roll the clay to the exact size you want to use, try using a bigger piece and cutting off those cracked edges.  try lifting an edge as you roll and you will see when the clay is just right for working.    at some point you will just do all this automatically.

    one other thing,  just my personal observation is that clay that comes in a cube is more difficult to use for slab work than clay that comes in a brick shape.   cutting thick pieces from a cube to make something long is harder than cutting a slice from a brick shape that is already part way there.

  2. that is an L&L kiln by its original name.   it is beautiful.  if you have the money, buy it.  now. it will be gone if you think about it too long.   even if you decide to become the busiest potter in the country, it can become a test kiln later.   18 inches will allow you to fire many pieces often so you can learn faster.

  3. take the pictures of the whole exterior, the inside of the lid, the inside of the kiln elements, a shot of the bottom interior,  a close-up of the metal plate with the manufacturer's name and the  electrical info on it, the end of the cord  and put measurements in the ad.   and please put them right side up.   hold the camera inside the kiln and aim at the walls for the elements condition.

    if you are including shelves and posts or other furniture, separate photo.  DO NOT stack shelves on top of the lid!   a fingernail can dent softbrick, do not break the bricks by putting weight on them.

    do price it reasonably.   new kiln prices usually are high because so much newer technology is included.   

  4. miriam, this is a skill you will learn once you start using less water.   everything said so far should help you figure out how to do this.   the most important thing is having dry hands and to lift as low as possible.  keep a towel hanging nearby.   i have not wired a pot since the 1970s when i started using Duron bats.  i remember pot lifters being useless.  fingers work better and you can control them easier.   good luck and remember you are learning a skill, not making a pot.

  5. thanks, hulk.   i think the beginners who have visited my studio overlook the things that are important to me and just think i am mean or wacky.   i am probably viewed as  overly fussy about keeping the work under my hand clean by avoiding the tiny bits of clay that have separated from the actual piece being worked on.    if you have ever picked up a piece of handwork that has a dozen tiny bits stuck to the bottom, you see what i mean.   there are 2 small boxes attached to the table holding my slab roller so i can brush those bits into the box nearest my hand.   they sit there for months out of the way and not getting turned into dust on the floor.

    those tiny stuck on bits make me unhappy, they call attention to the lack of care that i think we owe ourselves, not just for whoever picks up that piece in future.

    and tools need to have a place to be when not in my hand.  not scattered all over the room just because i moved the piece or walked to another spot to pick up another tool.  so i provide a space for tools.   unfortunately, i keep adding more tools and the really generous space i started with now resembles a dump.   but exactly where i work is clean and it stays clean and i leave the space clean when the session is over so the next time the space is welcoming.

    (funny, i can't seem to work that way in the kitchen)

     

  6. two whose postcards hang in my studio for inspiration are melissa greene, of maine's deer isle and carol gellner levin at the alexandria, va torpedo factory art center.

    the fabulous horses of susan greenleaf, who was at the torpedo factory and teaches through their school.

    another workshop with both of the colemans, tom and elaine from nevada.  never enough, 100 times would not be enough.

    glenn woods, chicago and palm harbor, fl,  shapes, not the gorgeous crystalline glazes.  i'm agog every visit.

    kim kirchman, teaches at st. petersburg  college, clearwater,  maybe i can learn to paint!   though i think it is hopeless.

    lots of members here whose photos of their work make me drool.  POST MORE PHOTOS, PLEASE!

    BTW if anyone wants to visit bill van gilder, come here and i will take you to his gorgeous studio just across the river.    well, if we go over the bridges in a car, it is about 10 miles or so.

    lots more, love workshops, love pottery. love learning something new!

  7. it is very hard to explain that i do not mean drown the pot and hold it underwater until it screams.   a quick dip will not get the pot wet, it will not even shine.  but the moisture will prevent the pot from greedily sucking up the wet glaze leaving an uneven surface.   and that quick dip takes less time than tediously wiping all surfaces.

    usually there were more than 20 pots to glaze each time at my studio, they were dipped in water first and lined up before stirring and sieving the glaze.  by the time each pot was glazed, some time had gone by and they were never "wet".   

    there are many words to describe moisture content, dry, damp, moist, wet, dripping.    it worked for me for many years until i started spraying glaze on greenware and single firing.  might work for someone else.

     

  8. pir, a slightly damp cloth is not enough preparation for dipping.   depending on how many pots you are glazing, dipping the entire pot quickly, into a bucket of clean water works well.  letting the first few sit while you dip them all gives enough time for the bisque to even out the moisture content if you have several to do.   otherwise, the glaze will not go on evenly.

    powdering should not happen, check the archives for that problem.

  9. congratulations!   the ultimate dream material to make life easier.   it's good to be happy for you.

    (my original comment on the status report came from the silly internet inclination to go the the most obvious thing and reported that i meant thermal light illumination bulbs and lighting accessories so i never knew they could be kiln shelves.)

     

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