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Bạn đang tự ti vì môi thâm? Bạn bận lòng lúc môi không được đẹp, màu môi nhợt nhạt? Bạn lo âu vì môi bị hỏng do xăm môi không đúng cách? đầy đủ mang thể được xóa bỏ bởi khoa học xăm môi Hàn Quốc, cùng tham khảo bài viết dưới đây để hiểu hơn về cách làm cho đôi môi mồng hấp dẫn nhé!Xăm môi Hàn Quốc là công nghệ tạo màu môi đẹp và tương đối mới hiện nay, nghe tên là bạn đã biết được cách thức này tới trong khoảng đất nước Hàn Quốc xinh đẹp. Xăm môi khoa học Hàn Quốc được Tìm hiểu cách thức tiên tiến tăng cường hoàn toàn những khuyết điểm của làn môi thâm, môi kém sắc nhợt nhạt, đem lại cho màu môi tự nhiên mà ko lộ dấu tích thẩm mỹ
xem thêm:https://phunxam.com/ban-co-dang-thac-mac-phun-moi-gia-bao-nhieu/
Môi thâm do gen di truyền ko chỉ khiến Hồng Nam mà rất nhiều bạn nữ khác băn khoăn và lo âu. dùng son là một trong những bí quyết nhiều người dùng nhằm che đi các khuyết điểm xấu xí này. ngoài ra, son môi thường không giữ được lâu, hơn nữa lại cất phần lớn chì làm màu môi càng ngày càng thâm hơn.
Theo những chuyên gia thẩm mỹ, để nhanh chóng tăng cường hoàn toàn hiện trạng này lấy lại làn môi hồng đẹp như ý muốn, bạn nên vận dụng khoa học phun xăm môi thẩm mỹ công nghệ Hàn Quốc. Đây được xem là biện pháp làm cho hồng môi thâm đương đại nhất hiện nay được đầy đủ người ưa chuộng.Lấy 1 lượng vừa phải sữa tươi đủ dùng trong ngày, cho vào 1 nhúm muối nhỏ. Mát xa môi đều đặn bằng hỗn tạp trên trong 10 – 15 phút rồi rửa lại bằng nước sạch. Đôi môi được tẩy tế bào chết và bổ sung chất chất cần thiết sẽ trở lại vẻ hồng hào ban đầu.
xem thêm:Phun xăm môi ở đâu đẹp và Lên Màu tình cờ Nhất?
Ngoài những cách thức tri moi tham hieu qua trên, bạn mang thể xoa môi bằng nước ép dưa chuột, sữa chua, dầu ôliu, dầu dừa, dầu hạnh nhân… đều sẽ cải thiện được trạng thái môi thâm kém xinh của mình. không những vậy, bạn cũng cần tránh hút thuốc lá và sử dụng những loại thức uống như cà phê, rượu bia nếu ko muốn những phương pháp trên vô hiệu.
nguồn:Phun môi Ngọc Dung

Edited by michaeltoan016

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Well you might not like my answer...

one of the key lessons I have learnt from the wheel is patience , patience, patience and repeat.  

I feel you have to give it time. Establish the right strategy now.  That is measure depth of floor with a needle tool. 

There are shortcuts (like adding extra clay from the inside) but as a newbie I would not advice that. Right now you are building muscle memory. Teach your fingers how thin you want your bottoms. Get a feel for what you like .  1/4 inch or half inch .

use your cups and see what you like    . I like my bottoms a little thicker as it holds the heat better. For a friend who likes to hold her cup while drinking I make the bottom thin so it’s lighter and because she drinks up her tea fast. 

... so no quick fix  

 

 

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My suggesting for students, is always leave more  on the bottom, than you think you'll need., as you can always make it thinner.  Worst case scenario, you'll have to trim a bit more later. 

Throwing off the hump, might help you leave the bottoms thicker, since you'll be able to see the bottom a bit better, as it will be higher up.  However, throwing off the hump also leads to more issues, like not compressing the bottom enough.  So you'll trade thin bottoms for S-Cracks.

As preeta said, it's all about practice and repetition. 

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As an experienced beginner (five months!), I've gone to about half an inch, which is later trimmed out to leave a foot ring - just enough to grasp from the inside to dip all the way w/o fingermarks ...maybe. If throwing off the wheelhead or da hump, more clay makes is easier to move without distorting the vessel. I also enjoy trimming. 

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6 minutes ago, Hulk said:

As an experienced beginner (five months!), I've gone to about half an inch, which is later trimmed out to leave a foot ring - just enough to grasp from the inside to dip all the way w/o fingermarks ...maybe. If throwing off the wheelhead or da hump, more clay makes is easier to move without distorting the vessel. I also enjoy trimming. 

Yep, about half an inch, is what I have students leave, depending on the size.  I tell them that some ceramicists leave more, if they are creating a deep foot, some less, if they don't trim a foot.

I too enjoy trimming, it is very soothing/ relaxing.

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Try this as an exercise which focuses on bottom thickness. 


Wedge and make 6 balls of clay each about the size of a softball.

Cover all but one ball with plastic to keep them moist.

The the remaining ball and attach to a bat and center the clay.  Open the clay to make a cup/bowl (your choice) and size and compress the bottom.
Stop here.
Cut the clay off the bat and then cut the piece in half to show the thickness of the bottom and the thickness of the clay walls. 

observe the thickness of the bottom.  Is it as thick as you want it to be?  Compare the as is thickness with your intended thickness.  

Take the clay smash it into a ball, and set aside in a plastic bag.

Take the next ball from your cache of wedge clay, and repeat try again.

Repeat the exercise for all the 6 balls. 

Take all the clay, spritz with water, slam them together into a big ball, spritz it with water and wrap tight in plastic.

Take a break and think about what you actually did and what you should do to improve getting the target thickness for the bottom of the piece.

Come back wedge your clay into six balls and repeat the exercise until you consistently reach your target bottom thickness.  

lt

 


 

Edited by Magnolia Mud Research

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Use a needle tool to check the bottom thickness when you think you are getting close.  Poke straight down until you feel the wheel head.   Eventually, as others have said, you will naturally get pretty close.   However, I find that since I throw all sorts of shapes with all different amounts of clay all the time,  I still often check.

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Throwing off the hump is it’s own skill set, and I think trying to learn them both at the same time will be confusing. It really does just take time and practice. Use your pin tool as a depth gauge. You will eventually get the feel for it after doing it enough. 

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michael, it is hard to be a beginner thinking of all the things you want to make and being frustrated by lack of skill.  you just have to realize that you are not making a product but learning a skill.

just try to remember that you are a beginner, you are learning a skill and improving your skill constantly.  you will not be able to make a good pot of any kind until your skill level improves considerably.  that will happen after you have tried often and failed often.   clay is just "goo" and it can be reused for a long time.  it is your practice material.   how often you practice will matter.

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I personally have worked very, very hard learning how to throw a form that does not need a lot of trimming. By throwing to form instead of trimming to form I think my pots are better and look better.

I would recommend throwing a few of your typical pots and then use fish line to cut these freshly trimmed pots in half and see exactly what your trimming job is doing to the structure of the pot. It might surprise you that that cool looking pot you just spent a half an hour making look perfect has thin spots in numerous places. 

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On 5/30/2018 at 9:19 AM, Stephen said:

I personally have worked very, very hard learning how to throw a form that does not need a lot of trimming. 

Me too Stephen.  I’ve also learnt to catch my pot at soft leatherhard and further throw it instead of trimming. I still struggle with side of bowls. It still amazes me how much clay lives in that curve.  Most other if no foot required I can actually eliminate trimming all together. 

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could not answer because i was at the show.  yes, monday is probably ok since you are west coast and that will allow me some breathing room.

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preeta, this is the tool that takes the fat out of the bottom of a thrown bowl while it is still on the wheel.  USE THE BIG END.

circle tool 001.JPG

Edited by oldlady
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Hi folks, I have a perfect tool for opening/shaping bowls. It is the bamboo spoon with the handle cut off, and the end sanded smooth. I also drilled a 3/8" hole in the spoon bowl to make it easier to grip. I use this spoon to open up the centered mound, then pull the walls with my fingers and then shape the bowl with the spoon. This tools makes good  compression in the base, and as it is rounded in 3 dimensions, it slides on the clay easier.

However, if I find that I need to take a little clay out of the clay walls on the inside of the bowl. . . I hold the spoon with the edge going into the motion of the clay instead of away from it. This causes the spoon to scoop out a small amount of clay.

I also find that bowls with large cantilevers are easier to shape just before cheese hard, and the spoon gives me a good firm form that slides easily on the stiffer clay for the wide cantilever.

 

best,

Pres 

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Aah  so the important part that makes the difference is the metal at the end of the circle   

Pres are you trying to use the principle of the gyureba rib! 

I found this in my local ethnic grocery store that makes a great rib for the inside of a bowl. They are not as big as those pictured here but it does a great job. 

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No, mine is not like the gyureba rib, as that is not anywhere like a bamboo spoon from a spoon set. I have seen and used those years ago, and found I was not coordinated with them, but they were an interesting tool. My spoon is simpler,  and more like a rounded rib, but most of those do not have the bowl that a spoon does so they react differently in the clay. Not even like a flexible rounded rib either.  Compression is greater.

 

best,

Pres

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11 hours ago, Pres said:

No, mine is not like the gyureba rib, as that is not anywhere like a bamboo spoon from a spoon set. I have seen and used those years ago, and found I was not coordinated with them, but they were an interesting tool. My spoon is simpler,  and more like a rounded rib, but most of those do not have the bowl that a spoon does so they react differently in the clay. Not even like a flexible rounded rib either.  Compression is greater.

 

best,

Pres

Could you post a photo of your altered bamboo spoon?

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4 hours ago, Gabby said:

Could you post a photo of your altered bamboo spoon?

And, Preeta, what does a gyureba rib look like (pic)? From the market? Not an animal rib.....?

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I recommend throwing drier and don't let water sit in the bottom of the pot as you are throwing. Check the depth with a needle tool. i taught throwing for 27 years. Newbies throw too wet. If you throw drier, you can throw larger pieces with stronger walls . Wet  walls clapse.  When you open check the depth. Keep the water off the bottom and keep checking until you cut it off.

 

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14 hours ago, Gabby said:

Could you post a photo of your altered bamboo spoon?

These are two of my favorite adapted tools from the kitchen. Both had large handles that I use to make knife edge ribs for trimming the base after throwing with a slight undercut. The spoon tool I have been talking about is on the right. The tool on the left is great for a rounded bead bottom with undercut, or to shape the top rim of a pot. I also use it as a straight and slightly curved rib. Really handy.

 

best,

Pres

AdaptedKitchenTools.JPG

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