Jump to content

Mark C.

Members
  • Posts

    12,015
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Mark C.

  • Birthday 03/15/1953

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.liscomhillpottery.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Near Arcata Ca-redwood rain forest
  • Interests
    Diving-underwater photo-salvage diving-dive Travel
    Extreme offshore tuna fishing off north coast of Ca.

Recent Profile Visitors

461,897 profile views

Mark C.'s Achievements

Advanced Member

Advanced Member (3/3)

6.7k

Reputation

  1. I like a full shelve on bottom in an electric supported at all stilt point off floor . With advancers you have two options one is kilnshelve.com the other is Bailey ceramics which are the same as advancers but usually alot cheaper. I have over 50 advancers in my gas kilns (selling 24 extra of these now on potters web) these are all 12x 24. I started testing Bailey Germany made advancers (not called that) years ago ands they are the exact same shelve only the corners are more rounded. I bought last fall 20 14x 28 from Bailey (about 7k) and have fired them in 13 glaze fires to cone 11 and as the others are super flat -thin and pay for themselves in space right away. Consider them the same as any advancer. The deal with any of these shelves is the shipping pack up charges as that can add 30% to cost. Bailey came out way cheaper on that as well.
  2. Photos of the inside would help but my guess is this a glass annealing kiln by the looks of shape and handle on lid.That means its not for ceramics. This brand I think is pretty old-call Alpha Fired Arts in Sac and ask abouit when they went out of business as well as what type og kilns they made.
  3. I do not like the shimps I have demonstrated on.That being the wisper.Or the oldser lever conested to foof pedal cone drive. You could look for a used Brent.
  4. All good pug mills use vacuum systems but it works as the clay is being beat up with a screw during that process exposing the air under vacuum. The bowl I do not think will have any effect. Wedging will remove them if done right
  5. I only use Brent wheels -I have a model A (1/3hp) for trimming and Model B (1/3 hp) and a model C 1/2hp to thrpw and a CXC for throwing .They use IR and I like it. I cannot imangine not having it. I have demonstrated on a whisper shimpo and it was super quiet but I could stall it with medium size clay and a load on it. I would never as a pro have one. Its a great beginner or lite use demo wheel. I'm a brent fan and yes they make noise but its never been an issue as I like music and hear it fine and can talk just fine while throwing. I have zero red skutt experience.
  6. HP rating are not all the same -that said 1/2hp is usually enough for all size pots one could ever what to make. The 1/3 hp is a bit weak for larger work
  7. Laguna will be carring these potassium feldspars .Mahavir and Vardham from India and G-200 depending on availability
  8. Gillespie borate is still around at some places as well as Custar-just need to look harder and stock up. IMCO in Sacramento Ca has the gellespie for cheap cost
  9. If you are firing in the cone 10 range and these clay items are just sculpture then Laguna's WSO is the most forgiving clay I have ever found.I feel Bmix with grog is not your best sculpture clay no matter what temp range-get a more loose body It's more like a cement feel than clay and very tough to crack. I made a 3 foot wall fish from it and it came out fine spanning 3 -12x24 kilns shelves on a waster slab
  10. Got a notice about this thru a few sources. Laguna has 2-3 other choices with Mahavir Feldspar being the go to Hard to say if this is permanent or will change again-if You like custar and need custar buy oit now while you can find it.-Last call
  11. small forms like mugs and other with no feet are thrown on plaster bats and no leveling is needed as the clay pad is flat and so is the plaster bat. If the form is not lever we tap it level on a plater bat. Trimmed foot forms are do not need any adjustment ever . When I switch to larger forms not on plaster bats (over 8#s ) I use a wire to cut and trim the bottom foot. This all is second nature after a few decades in the business
  12. (After thinking long and hard about what you have said and after reading through all my glaze books I think I just need to go gas, I can’t help myself.) Welcome to my world
  13. No permit and easy for gas then I suggest gas but I am a cone 10 gas potter myself so I am a bit bias. Learning with gas and cone 10 is a big learning curve but very doable.
  14. I love the L&Ls -not to famailar with Canadian cone arts to much. LL has the great element holders and has well thought out details like cooler held off controls. Just a note about cone 10 in an electric-if thats the goal (cone 1 firings) then spring for the high cost elements or plan on replacing them a lot even with the high price ones they wear fast at cone 1O. Also consider the S thermocouples for better life . Neil here has the most experience with them and I'm sure will advise.-He is also a distributor in the east.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.