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Gas kiln stalled . Why?


Linda A

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1 hour ago, Mark C. said:

Yes you should use the valves closest to burners to regulate them for sure. That should all be downstream of any regulator.

As to natural gas was the kiln bought from an are that had Natural gas?? of all propane area??

Yes bought from an area that only has propane available. Our small islands do not have natural gas.

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Ok, if it is saying 10psi input I guess that should be for propane. I don't think natural gas ever comes at 10psi. The only reason I was worries is if you are supplying the burners with a low pressure they wont get 60,000BTU as that is related to the size of the burner orifice and the pressure of gas you are supplying.

 

I had no issue using a single control valve before a flat regulator on a 4x burner gas kiln. Actually found it much harder to get an even turn/twist on each burner.

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6 hours ago, High Bridge Pottery said:

Ok, if it is saying 10psi input I guess that should be for propane. I don't think natural gas ever comes at 10psi. The only reason I was worries is if you are supplying the burners with a low pressure they wont get 60,000BTU as that is related to the size of the burner orifice and the pressure of gas you are supplying.

 

I had no issue using a single control valve before a flat regulator on a 4x burner gas kiln. Actually found it much harder to get an even turn/twist on each burner.

Yes but isn't the flat regulator regulating the flow of gas to the burners. So if I adjust the cotrol valve upstream of the regulator there really shouldn't be any change in the flame size as the regulator only allows a certain water column.  I am researching trying to find out how much.

But if I adjust the control downstream from the regulator I should note a larger difference in flame sizes.

Going to play with the control valves upstream and downstream of the regulator and see exactly what changes happen  to the flame size with adjustments.

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  • 2 years later...

I have the same problem. kiln will not go past 2050-2060. it is a natural gas kiln with two venturi burners mounted on the side with the exhaust port in between the two burner ports. the exhaust port is about twice the volume as the burner ports. I have a 9-10 inch shute from the exhaust port to a seven foot chimney... I have tried letting the air adjustment disks out, and opening the damper, and also letting back on the gas. lather, rinse and repeat with all these variables. no luck. kiln was building heat just fine and I did a reduction at around 1740 degrees. Heat continued to climb during the 40 minute reduction...but stalled at around 2030 degrees F, and thats when I employed all the variables separately and in combinations. no luck. about 2060 hard -earned degrees and hours later. I'm too tired to try any more tricks tonight. I have been thinking that maybe the flame may be choked in the firebox, as I have the firebricks flush and not spaced apart...Idk. 2060 degrees is close but no cigar here. I am trying to fire to cone 6-7. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks. :(

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We need to know more about the interior flow/photos drawings, something.

Usually it a flow issue or a lack of draw

is this propane or Natural gas?-Soft brick or hard brick?

square kiln -flat top or a conversion from an old electric -details are needed ,the more the better.

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8 hours ago, Mudfish said:

I am trying to fire to cone 6-7. Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks. :(

Your base issue is not enough heat to offset your losses, period.

Now that’s the simple reason, what are causes of this?

Not enough heat:

  • Burners too small
  • Burners running inefficiently due to reduction
  • Burner output derated under back pressure
  • Not enough gas supply

 losses

  • Not enough insulation as configured. Basic kiln design (brick ....... double wall, etc....)
  • Damper open too far

If this can’t make temp in oxidation then the not enough heat is  likely. Can it fire to cone six in oxidation?
and ......... pictures, ratings, gas pressure needed to get 60k btu rating....... anything you can show and tell will help.

At 2060 it will likely take too long to get this done by heatwork.

120k btu might be light, how does this compare with commercial  of similar size?

 

 

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7 hours ago, Hulk said:

Hi Mud!

While you're waiting (err, when you wake up?), post depictions of your kiln - images, dimensions/design, burners, etc.

Hey Hulk.

I sure wish I could post pics but they are too large or something.  Anyway, I have converted an electric kiln to natural gas.  This is my first crack at it. I have moved the damper lower - right by the chute to the 7 ft chimney. I will get back with about the results as I am re-doing this test fire.

Thank you!

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35 minutes ago, Mudfish said:

Hey Hulk.

I sure wish I could post pics but they are too large or something.  Anyway, I have converted an electric kiln to natural gas.  This is my first crack at it. I have moved the damper lower - right by the chute to the 7 ft chimney. I will get back with about the results as I am re-doing this test fire.

Thank you!

Btw..I never did wake up because I never went to sleep!! I was up all night last night trying to coax another 200 or so degrees from this kiln. Yikes

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@Mudfish If you email the pictures to yourself from your phone, there's often an option to resize them. Otherwise there are lots of resizing apps out there, too. Or if you're on a Mac, there's an 'adjust size' option in Preview. Set it at approximately 10 inches wide at 72dpi and it'll show fine on here. Without pics it will be more difficult to diagnose the problem as there are lots of different conversion methods.

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On 7/23/2018 at 7:09 PM, Linda A said:

The air inlet valves were only open about one eight of an inch.  Any further open than that they would become very loud.  Is that normal?

Leave them open say  3/8“ - 1/2” .............and  listen to these kiln burners below in the video as an example of the usual noise. While yours may not sound exactly like this, these burners rely on a decent velocity through them to work properly. This kiln working properly will easily go 500f degrees per hour Or more from start to 1600 degrees.

If you are really stuck and cannot figure out the size and operating pressure, measuring the orifice would allow us to provide a reasonable guess. Not easy I know, but borrow some twist drills and try and see which one slides in smoothly but  snuggly. Tell us which drill and that will be close enough to look in an orifice table. Don’t do any drilling, use the shank of the drill. We just want an accurate size so any other method available  is fine as well.

we also need a picture of the piping showing regulator and valves. if possible the path the gas travels to have a sense of everything downstream of the regulator. The regulator should  be labeled with inlet and outlet pressures

 

 

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second firing reached 2120 ish and an almost solid cone 5. I closed the dampers when I cut off the gas and this morning the kiln had already cooled off. Yikes, that's way too quick, so I know it is not retaining heat very well. I think the refractory board that I have for part of the chimney is causing at least part of the problem and I guess I could do something to close off the burner ports and exhaust port so it won't lose heat so quick when cooling off - I sure don't want my matte glazes all crash-cool shiny. 

Well, I know folks have things to do, lol... I feel like I'm talking to myself, here...You guys aren't laughing at my kiln pics are you?? Really.., any advise is well taken and thank you.  

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