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About Sorcery

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  1. I fired mine from raw to whatever temperature Marcia dunks em at. Water hasn't ruined my cone 10 Porcelain Cup. Made a little vase too from Standard 101, 2 actually, one that had glaze on it! Oops! Depends on the mix I guess, but if you leave em too long, they just turn brown. Looks wicked, like leather, but it gets boring. I think a fast dip, and maybe some subsequent spraying from a bottle, or splash with some mix from a brush or what have you, can add better variability. I would be careful not to bring drips back into the kiln, fast cooling the elements would probably be las
  2. It took me quite a while to stop trying to make things with slab scraps. Finally got there by seeing how "easy" it is to reclaim. What have I been doing!? This is going to help me try not to reclaim at all! Sorce
  3. Do you have a kiln sitter? What are you using to operate it? If using the cones, moving them slightly in either direction raises or lowers the firing time. This could be why it takes longer, or you could have packed it fuller, or you could have one too many peeps open, or....it's not likely the kiln. Sorce
  4. This is a budget thing for me with a lot of possible equations. The most important being, do you sell enough, or care for your body enough to make it worth the investment. They certainly pay themselves off, it's just a matter of how long till that happens. In creeps the equation that is, how well will you maintain it? If it pays itself off then promptly dies, it will only have saved your efforts. I been hanging things out in jeanlegs. Once you find the "right" day to unleg it and wedge, it becomes pretty easy, and remains clean. Some of our equation should include the amoun
  5. Don't switch what works, but you can't really know if this is true without dem witness cones! Besides the first "test" firing to "ready" new elements without gases, I can't help but see a test fire as a waste of time. To see if it gets up to your temp, only one centrally located cone is required, as heatwork and variations in temp top to bottom will change with the load mass (and vent). This is also why cones are ALWAYS required, at least the one like Hulk says. But in the beginning, before you learn your clay and kiln, and it's results, you should have at least a guide cone
  6. Jake, did you dry your work in the Lake too Long? Weigh for dry, after a day of no weight loss, you are safe. Do whatever it takes to get further ahead of schedule! #neveragain Sorce
  7. Just control the flight path, don't clip the wings. Sorce
  8. I wouldn't paint it. If you did get any corrosion, it will be less harmful, and come way way later, than paint chips in your clay. You ever think about making one? Sorce
  9. I would like to know where you are gathering it from and how, also your entire processing process. There is a lime test you're supposed to administer using hydrochloric acid. Too much lime and you're fighting an uphill battle that may be unwinnable. Further, I recently brought a seive out to collect with and ended up with more sand than before. Backwards of what I imagined, so be careful of what else you may be collecting. I think aging is also important. Nothing you can add will replace time. If you use wood ash, make sure it is clean and white, otherwise you'll be introd
  10. You won't be disappointed, the glazes are wonderful! This is on Amaco 46 buff. It was brushed with it face up, I believe just one thick coat, you can see where the blue pooled in the irregular wall. Someone posts glazes over black slip on Glazy, I think that, or a light black underglaze may give you that darker look. (I was googling the duck) It almost wants to go white where really thick, that could be an issue, though I don't remember it looking this way before a couple summers in the sun. I've read about UV rays effecting glazes, but they can revert back too, I'll keep
  11. Yeah 6! Let me see if I can find better pics. It is near black where thick, which makes the blue look iridescent. Green where thin. Since it's really stable, you may be able to layer it for specific coloring. How much testing can you do first? Sorce
  12. What temp? Mayco's Northern Woods is nice. Real glossy blue green. All the pics online show green. The blue shows well on this rim. Sorce
  13. Could be a number of things creating the cracks. From forming to firing. Dots sounds like iron spotting. Sorce
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