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Mark C.

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Posts posted by Mark C.

  1. I never have dipped my hot wax pots in AH-it was only a thought.

    I hot dip thousands of pots as do you. When I need a seat/lid waxed with alumina I dip my sponge with regular water solubale wax in AH powder and wax the seat.Not a hot dip deal

    most all my 50-60 advancers are washed with a light coat of homemade kiln wash as I am a all porcealin shop.

    I used to put AH in liquid wax but the dip sponge in it is more control and the little i need on lidded forms

    I think you could put some AH in the hot dip pan but it will fall out really fast-if you kept the wax level low that may get enough on the pot bottom (trial and error here for sure) by moving the flat bottom pot arond a bit in the settled power at bottom

    I hot dip about 2 thirds of 8 tons a year now. so I have some experince at it-ya down to only 8 tons from the usual 12 in the old days.

    I have found that glaze that interfaces with AH leaves a rough surface (not going to grind 1000 pots  every fire right) 

    I use lots of runny rutile glaze and I try to keep AH away from that interface.

    in terms of how much in my super large  14 inch Dazey hot dip pan I would start with 1/4 cup.

    The 1/2 AH and 1/4 epk 1/4 calcined epk wash is a killer wash ( paint roller on very thin). It will not give you any issues except stop the plucking

    I never flip advancers or have AH issues from free floating into other glazes.

    In terms of AH in wax it will be a powder after the glaze fire when the wax is gone it stays and is inert and will be a powered mess over time as it free and not bound up in say a wash.

    something to ponder

    let us know the cure

    buy the way these Dazey pans are huge-I get them on ebay -(have 3-2 new in box) If you shop them you can get them shipped for under $6o

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/384149692255?epid=1924504164&hash=item59711b1f5f:g:x0UAAOSwwe5glEAF

  2. A bit off topic but still relevant . I'm working with Skutt on a rusty stainless issue (metal band testing -more later on this) but in talks mid winter Skutt  they said that all kilns for European Market requires a kiln paper between metal and brick. I'm testing this on a jacket replacement very soon-They shipped me the jackets just before having a bone removed from thimb. I'm just about well enough to tackle this job again. I ordered the thin Bullseye 1600 degree shelve paper used  in glass work and will install between bricks and metal jacket. Not the same as fiber but still a barrier. I'm using it to get more life from the metal jacket vs insulation .Its an easy fix and cheap and easy to install when rejacketing a kiln.Should make for vapor not affecting metal as bad.

    Big beliver in 3 inch brick even for bisque temps myself aslo big fan of advancer shelves -they pay for themshelves in space and energy saved in production firing right away.

  3. Are they staying completely flat coming out out the extruder or are they slightly curved and yiou flaten them as you cut them.

    Clay has memory

    if you weight the drywall they cannot bend up or down

    if they are going sideways  between the press its because they are curved coming out of extruder is my guess.Is your die hole center in extruder? off set? need more info on that part

    how about rolling the border and and cutting them and seeing if they stay flat.

  4. I received this news about Texas talc off the market as a Laguna distributor

    They (Laguna ) is looking for another talc source now

    I have used Serralite for decades now  . It costs more. (I still have some texas talc as i only use it in one glaze) as I have never been a fan of it.

    see my pots on this here

     

  5. Natural Minerals C-98 Talc is no longer in production. They have closed their doors to external sales.

    This is the grey Texas talc that many have been using for decades , it fires white.

    Laguna Clay Company has a rationed amount for customers still.

    I'm not user myself as I use another talc that costs more.

    If you need this talc in a glaze you better stock up NOW.

  6. Ok something is going on this days  in a big way

    Lumber prices up 300%

    gasoline up a bunch as well as all things grocery

    I raised my prices last fall as well 

    That said the orders are rolling in like I have never seen before and thats saying something.

    Looks like the public is buying up whatever ceramics they can get.

    Get your item out there anyway you can . I think this is a coast to coast deal.

    Summer is on and it looks to be a strong sales one for sure.

  7. 3 hours ago, theothercandice said:

    Hi! 

    First time poster, long time lurker. Thank you so much for @GEP for organizing the FAQ so I can find this helpful thread.

    I just have some more follow up questions. I'm doing my first wholesale order with a shop and I feel really nervous about it. I tried to research on youtube and in this forum, and here are some assumptions that I'd like some insight in. 

    Step 1: Retailer/Gallery/Someone reaches out  (or vice versa). Then you provide a catalogue/linesheet. 

    I give them a list of forms to order from-my list

    Step 2: They put in an order form/You give them an order form to fill up

    Yes-they e-mail it back to me.

    Step 3: Payment: This is the part where I'm unsure. It seems like there are ways to go about it. (I realize I can send an invoice in paypal to the seller) 
         Option 1: 20-30% deposit at the time of order, remaining balance due before shipping
         Option 2: 50% deposit at the time of order, remaining balance due before shipping
         Option 3: 100% before shipping
         Option 4: I keep hearing about net 30/60. But I dont really know what that means. 

    First time order-paid in full-always

    next order (second order) 30 days

    Step 3.5: Paper Logistics: Do I charge for tax? Do they pay tax on their end? My seller gave me a sheet with her EIN. Is there something I need to do with this? Do I need an EIN??

    No you do not charge tax they collect and pay the tax-its wholesale-not retail

    Your EIN numberr is your federal tax number-goggle it .Apply for one and get it you may need it in future as I have used it for other things in the past. I never use mine on wholesale or theirs as long as you report this income on your tax return.I do lots of wholesale and never use those numbers.If ask for it you then have one.

    Step 4: Make the order!

    Make extras-things go wrong

    Step 5: Shipping and Delivery. I've read somewhere that the buyer pays for the shipping. In some cases, the buyer and you split the cost of shipping. How do you estimate for the delivery price? 

    Buyer usually pays-I have split it if I drive it far-local drops are free-If you pay for paid shipping they pay that amount-I had a shop once where I split the shipping buts thats rare.

    Pack it well and insure it.This is a skill set in itself 

    Step 6: What common mishaps have you experienced and what are good practices/terms you've given to protect yourself?

    Write up a contract-covering breakage-how long lead time you need-payment details act-this is very important so be thorough

    on the first order get the payment up front-this is where you can get taken.It happened to mein the 8os.


    I read somewhere that one potter doesnt give buys option for buybacks and returns (unless they've made an error or something broke) since its wholesale and its equal risk. 

    For wholesale no  buybacks or returns is common.

    Thank you so much for taking the time to read this! 

     

     

  8. Working on huge simi annual gallery wholesale order now and it up over last years order same period. Local shops are selling more volume still .I'm a bit worried aboiut getting enough wares for a show on top of local sales . Never been like this with demand way up. Only one shop is down  this year and they are still closed 3 days a week and only open 11-4 the other 4 days.

  9. Any advice on how to become more educated in those areas that isn't insanely boring?)

    In ceramics many things are not just throwing and making-the technical issues will bite you in the butt but for some they are not as fun as the making.If you ignore them then you will not be bored becuse you be to involved in grinding kiln sheves from runny glazes or breaking your pots because they weep water and are not suitable for use .Ceramics is pretty technical in some areas-You will need to know some boring items to master itothewre wise it will be a disaster.

    Many here will help  you with the mastering it goal .

  10. I use the sun to dry 99% of all thrown pottery when I can. Mugs go out in sun and come off the plaster bats as soon as they are raedy and taken inside to handle for example. Bowls dry outside until they can be trimmed-usually it takes place in same day-work in am trim in pm

    I spin the pots to the other side if the sun is hot to make sure that dry evenly .

    The sun is a potters friend.

  11. I make ceramic fish some have a curve to them others are flat-since your plaques sound flat they are like my flat fish.

    In the curfed fish i add a  piece of wet clay when the fish clay is also wet and poke a small hole in it. Later after the cone 10 fire I string stainless wire so its good outside and inside.

    On the flat fish I pinch a small bunch of clay that is flat on one side and prudes slightly and put a small hole thru it. I use JB weld epoxy to glue these to the fish backs and later thread the holes with stainless wire. The epoxy grips clay way better than wire (or D rings) the only drawback is this epoxy can let go when really hot in sun. I think west systems two part epoxy for marine use is another option-its spendy but I use it on m,y boats. another option than I have here but is untested is marine JB weld which you can order online at amazon. Hardwares stores carry regular JB in regular (a bit runny) or fast set  a bit thicker.As I said heat can release it but indoor use would work well. I did test this epoxy on a glase to clay fired pieces and it tore the glaze off the pot and the bond held.

    I world real world test your product before selling it to consumers first.

    The other suggestion is make a new mold that has the hole for wire in the plaque or make an add on piece-it sounds like the hanging is not thought out yet . All you need is small hole for a wire (hangs flat on wall)

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