neilestrick

Yesterday I took a look at an L&L built in 1973. It needs elements and a wiring upgrade (still has the old waxed cloth wires), but it'll be good to go after that. The customer also had another L&L from 1964 that was still functional. Age means nothing, condition means everything.

Busy day glazing today! These are all waxed and ready to dip.
 

It's not that impressive. I just have a few online sources I get most things from. There's really only about half a dozen things that the vast majority of my kiln repairs need.

I rarely ever pay someone to fix things, especially in the studio. At home I will hire someone only if it's an extreme situation that's beyond my ability as an accomplished DIY'er, like if I need a new roof. I enjoy fixing things, though, so it's not a problem. You either need to be handy or need to be able to write a check.

Handiness is a secondary benefit to having gone through college ceramics programs. We never had much of a budget, so if we needed something like table or shelving, we built our own. When things needed fixing, we did it ourselves. In grad school we even ran our own plumbing for the gas kilns to save money. It drove the facilities guys nuts, but we always passed inspection.

Handiness is a secondary benefit to having gone through college ceramics programs. We never had much of a budget, so if we needed something like table or shelving, we built our own. When things needed fixing, we did it ourselves. In grad school we even ran our own plumbing for the gas kilns to save money. It drove the facilities guys nuts, but we always passed inspection.

I rarely ever pay someone to fix things, especially in the studio. At home I will hire someone only if it's an extreme situation that's beyond my ability as an accomplished DIY'er, like if I need a new roof. I enjoy fixing things, though, so it's not a problem. You either need to be handy or need to be able to write a check.

I rarely ever pay someone to fix things, especially in the studio. At home I will hire someone only if it's an extreme situation that's beyond my ability as an accomplished DIY'er, like if I need a new roof. I enjoy fixing things, though, so it's not a problem. You either need to be handy or need to be able to write a check.

I rarely ever pay someone to fix things, especially in the studio. At home I will hire someone only if it's an extreme situation that's beyond my ability as an accomplished DIY'er, like if I need a new roof. I enjoy fixing things, though, so it's not a problem. You either need to be handy or need to be able to write a check.

I allow food and drink in my studio, except during glazing week. The rest of the time they are only touching clay, no glaze materials, so there's not any real risk of ingesting something dangerous. We have a pretty steady supply of baked goods and candy coming through the studio.

I allow food and drink in my studio, except during glazing week. The rest of the time they are only touching clay, no glaze materials, so there's not any real risk of ingesting something dangerous. We have a pretty steady supply of baked goods and candy coming through the studio.

If you've got those bats that are made for the Aspire that have the grid on the backside, I wouldn't be surprised if they wobble. It's common for that type of bat. The Speedball bats do it too. It may or may not be an issue once you get some clay on the wheel. Have you tried throwing on them?

Damper at the exit flue. Assuming the flue opening is the correct size, the full draft of the chimney is too much and you need to be able to damper it down. Otherwise too much heat goes out the stack, and you can't control the pressure in the kiln or secondary air draw.

Damper at the exit flue. Assuming the flue opening is the correct size, the full draft of the chimney is too much and you need to be able to damper it down. Otherwise too much heat goes out the stack, and you can't control the pressure in the kiln or secondary air draw.

At 1 cubic meter you've got about 32 cubic feet of interior space, so you need a minimum of 500,000 btu/hr, probably more, to get to cone 10. I'm betting your little propane tanks are freezing up more than you think, especially if you're running more than one burner off a tank.
You need a damper to control the secondary air draft and internal kiln pressure. Your burner ports look to be pretty big for a burner of that size.
The lack of safety equipment on the burners is troublesome. They're not even mounted to something that will keep them in place. And it looks like the heat from the chimney is going straight onto the building above?

Damper at the exit flue. Assuming the flue opening is the correct size, the full draft of the chimney is too much and you need to be able to damper it down. Otherwise too much heat goes out the stack, and you can't control the pressure in the kiln or secondary air draw.

At 1 cubic meter you've got about 32 cubic feet of interior space, so you need a minimum of 500,000 btu/hr, probably more, to get to cone 10. I'm betting your little propane tanks are freezing up more than you think, especially if you're running more than one burner off a tank.
You need a damper to control the secondary air draft and internal kiln pressure. Your burner ports look to be pretty big for a burner of that size.
The lack of safety equipment on the burners is troublesome. They're not even mounted to something that will keep them in place. And it looks like the heat from the chimney is going straight onto the building above?

When you have a cylinder that is open on the bottom, as it tries to shrink it will catch on the shelf and warp. By putting a slab under it, the slab will shrink with the cylinder, allowing the cylinder to shrink freely. I've even had tall foot rings on large bowls warp.

Test tiles. My shop is closed for the next 2 weeks, so I'm going to focus on getting some things done that I haven't had time to do, like running glaze tests. I make my tiles by throwing a 3 pound ring at the edge of a 13 inch bat, then decorating it with underglazes and cutting it up into about 25 tiles.
 

Test tiles. My shop is closed for the next 2 weeks, so I'm going to focus on getting some things done that I haven't had time to do, like running glaze tests. I make my tiles by throwing a 3 pound ring at the edge of a 13 inch bat, then decorating it with underglazes and cutting it up into about 25 tiles.
 

Test tiles. My shop is closed for the next 2 weeks, so I'm going to focus on getting some things done that I haven't had time to do, like running glaze tests. I make my tiles by throwing a 3 pound ring at the edge of a 13 inch bat, then decorating it with underglazes and cutting it up into about 25 tiles.
 

Test tiles. My shop is closed for the next 2 weeks, so I'm going to focus on getting some things done that I haven't had time to do, like running glaze tests. I make my tiles by throwing a 3 pound ring at the edge of a 13 inch bat, then decorating it with underglazes and cutting it up into about 25 tiles.
 

Test tiles. My shop is closed for the next 2 weeks, so I'm going to focus on getting some things done that I haven't had time to do, like running glaze tests. I make my tiles by throwing a 3 pound ring at the edge of a 13 inch bat, then decorating it with underglazes and cutting it up into about 25 tiles.
 

Hi Bernardo,
Welcome to the forum! 
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Made a "bead popper" from an empty Chap Stick tube.  Automatically centers the hole in the bead.